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OWNERS Thread for the Panasonic PT-AE7000U 3D Projector - Page 4

post #91 of 4344
10/2/11 at 2:07pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by drhankz View Post

That is WHY I bought a Panasonic 3D Player first and the PJ second.

3D Avatar is FREE when you buy a 3D Player.

The sales person at Best Buy told me they were not offering it with the 3d Players anymore. grrr
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post #92 of 4344
10/2/11 at 2:11pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Randito3 View Post
The sales person at Best Buy told me they were not offering it with the 3d Players anymore. grrr
My Two Cent recommendation is NEVER TO BUY from BEST BUY.

All their salesmen know is SELLING you what they HAVE.

Read the ATTACHED DOCUMENT

 

Avatar_MIR_Form._V170264116_.pdf 236.0205078125k . file
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post #93 of 4344
10/2/11 at 4:30pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by luismanrara View Post

let's make sure not to start spreding rumors that confuse people.

That is not a dust blob, I had the same problem some years ago. that is one of the LCD panels.

Please give me a call.
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post #94 of 4344
10/2/11 at 9:08pm
Nice shots!

Any comments on input lag/gaming?

Also, does 3D still work if the projector is above your head on a shelf? No idea how the emitter works, you see!
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post #95 of 4344
10/2/11 at 9:11pm
Sorry I really don't do any gaming, so I couldn't really comment. Nice, nice projector though. Yes 3D works just fine that way. The built in emitter is quite strong.
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post #96 of 4344
10/2/11 at 9:59pm
Thanks for the reply!
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post #97 of 4344
10/2/11 at 10:00pm
Can anyone comment on how the 2.35.1 mode looks on the the screen with this projector? I will be buying this projector soon so I am very happy this forum is now available!!!
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post #98 of 4344
10/2/11 at 10:49pm
Those shots look impressive, blacks look really good. Glad this projector is finally in peoples hands and pics are showing up, I can't wait to get one.
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post #99 of 4344
10/2/11 at 11:39pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by bollokings View Post

Can anyone comment on how the 2.35.1 mode looks on the the screen with this projector? I will be buying this projector soon so I am very happy this forum is now available!!!

+1. I've already purchased it, its on the way along with a 2.35:1 136"; I want to know how noticeable the black will be on the top and bottom when I zoom to cinemascope....
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post #100 of 4344
10/3/11 at 1:10am
Quote:
Originally Posted by AV Science Sales 4 View Post

It was late at night and I made a joke. Obviously, every projector has weaknesses and has traits that annoy owners. Why can't they do that, why didn't they do that? Of course changing anything costs money.

As an avid reader of projector threads, I get a little jaded. I do think you have a right to be annoyed, I just think in the reality of things it would be no more than a minor annoyance at most for many. Please do not be offended. I was just goofing a bit with you. I do that.

Please forgive me.

Now optimum set up. Every projector trades brightness vs on/off based on throw distance ratio. Place it closer, you get more ANSI lumens out but less on/off. Place it farther away and you gain on off and lose some ANSI lumens. The functions are a log function and putting things in the middle gives you probably close to the worst in any direction. From end to end, the fall off in either might be around 30% with most of the fall off occuring rapidly as one moves from an extreme. For maximum of either, one needs mounting close to an extreme. One has to chose their poison. What do you want? This will involve screen size and gain. What's the minimum of either you will accept? This is best discussed with a call as we can go into everything and you can make relevant choices, something you must do, not the advisor.

As to lens shift, the more range a manufacturer provides the greater the possible optical deterioration in image quality available. The smaller the lens diameter the worse things can get. Just remember for optimum optical performance, geometry and focus, and lack of chromatic aberrations, a lens will perform best if the chip imagre coming out of the optical block is centered in the lens. The bigger the lens, the bigger the center area is and the more you can shift away from that without deterioration. Now do not be afraid to use lens shift if you need it, just try to stay away from the extremes. Even at close to an extreme, performance over most of the screen will still be good but not as good as possible. If you want to discuss, just give me a call.


The problem described does not appear to be a dust blob. Some defect in the optical block, probably a panel defect, Just relax and wait until Monday to call your dealer, I am sure they will promptly resolve things for you.

Detailed answer and to the point, thanks! I might give you a call when I know what are the possible mounting distances in my setup. I'm new to projectors so my knowledge on these matters is very primitive. There's just one thing I'm not sure I understand from your answer; when you say putting things in the middle gives you the worst in any direction, do you mean that placing the projector at mid-throw is not a good idea? I really appreciate your help. Thanks again.
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post #101 of 4344
10/3/11 at 4:54am
I thought it looked like a dust spot from the first report but the picture shows that it is probably something else. I have never heard before that it is possible to seal LCD units to avoid dust blobs. It is possible to have better filters and I am sure that Panasonic has a good one.
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post #102 of 4344
10/3/11 at 5:18am
colors look pretty good... got me wondering now lol
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post #103 of 4344
10/3/11 at 5:44am
Larryad
What screen are you using ? and the size ?
This projector looks great. I will get my Ae7000 next saturday. I have here a AE4000 with 0 lamp hours use and i will make some pictures about this projectors side-by-side.
Thanks man.
Clayton
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post #104 of 4344
10/3/11 at 6:13am
Could anyone who has recieved their 7000 and have seen a JVC RS15 or new comment to the black level in 2d
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post #105 of 4344
10/3/11 at 6:50am
Lots of people place it mid throw because they think that would be be the maximum net gain for both totalled. Its easy and it must be right? Not really because light and on off are different things and one might have enough of one and not enough of the other. There is a sharp slope fall off in ANSI as you leave closest throw and a sharp slope fall off in on off as you leave longest throw. After a bit, the slope levels off and becomes a much more gentle curve almost leveling off to a straight line but still curved. Its a log function. In the middle you get more ANSI lumens than you would by mounting at long throw and more on off than you would be mounting at close throw. But, for example, you may need or want considerably more light and the increase in light by mounting at close throw may more than outweigh a modest gain in on off associated with mid throw mounting.
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post #106 of 4344
10/3/11 at 6:57am
Anyone out there have some recomendations on how to setup the lens memory for 2.35:1 and 16:9, is there a how to guide? in the zoom focus menu, (blue screen w/green bars) should the green bars be on the edge of the screen? sorry if this makes no sense but just looking for some help setting up my first projector!
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post #107 of 4344
10/3/11 at 8:06am
Just wondering about the Cinema mode everyone is using. If I remember correct that is not the "calibrated" mode for best color. I know on the 4000 it is Color 1 that is recomended, has this changed?
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post #108 of 4344
10/3/11 at 8:15am
Quote:
Originally Posted by hellyeah View Post

Anyone out there have some recomendations on how to setup the lens memory for 2.35:1 and 16:9, is there a how to guide? in the zoom focus menu, (blue screen w/green bars) should the green bars be on the edge of the screen? sorry if this makes no sense but just looking for some help setting up my first projector!

I remember using instructions that someone posted in the AE3000 thread way back when. You might try looking and searching there but to put it simply, you want to set up your projector for 16:9 first. Get it centered, focused, zoomed properly for 16:9 material. Then from there, you can adjust the zoom, focus and v-shift for 2:35:1 and 2.40:1 or anything else you want to set up. I would just use broadcast TV or a 1.78:1 blu-ray for your initial setup and then put in scope movies to set up your other lens memories.
But like I said, more detailed setup instructions were posted in the AE3000 thread a few years ago and I remember following them at the time.
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post #109 of 4344
10/3/11 at 8:26am
Quote:
Originally Posted by hellyeah View Post

Anyone out there have some recomendations on how to setup the lens memory for 2.35:1 and 16:9, is there a how to guide? in the zoom focus menu, (blue screen w/green bars) should the green bars be on the edge of the screen? sorry if this makes no sense but just looking for some help setting up my first projector!

With the AE3000 you could press enter (or whatever is in the center of the arrows on the remote) while in this mode and it would show the picture.
I never bothered using the lines, just always used the actual film.
I think the menu is roughly the same, with the AE3000 it was:
Set your 16:9 position centrally using the trickey joystick, once happy, lock it in place, then in the lens control settings, adjust focus, zoom until happy save it as whatever you want to call it in the lens memory save area.
When you want to reload it, it's in the lens memory load area (you can setup the function button on the remote to go straight there)
Then put a 2:35:1 source on, use your zoom to remove the black bars, you can then use the V/H-Area position from the menu in the same area (under lens control) to move the picture around, I used to have to set the horizontal a wee bit, but quite a lot on the vertical. When happy once again save it as ....
Along with the AE4000 auto options would then switch the 2 above settings automatically if turned on, but I'm still using the old tech
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post #110 of 4344
10/3/11 at 8:37am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mopar_Mudder View Post

Just wondering about the Cinema mode everyone is using. If I remember correct that is not the "calibrated" mode for best color. I know on the 4000 it is Color 1 that is recomended, has this changed?

Cinema1 looks great to me. It is based off the REC709 but I personally prefer it better than REC709 as it maintains saturation on a large screen. I'm using Cinema1 for 2D viewing and NORMAL mode for 3D viewing because of the brighter lumens output so the image doesn't look dark with the glasses.

The other modes that are included are DYNAMIC, REC709, CINEMA2, DCINEMA and GAME
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post #111 of 4344
10/3/11 at 9:22am
How's the brightness of this projector? Is it bright enough to light up a 10-feet wide, 2:35, 1.3 gain screen?
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post #112 of 4344
10/3/11 at 9:27am
Quote:
Originally Posted by AV Science Sales 4 View Post

Lots of people place it mid throw because they think that would be be the maximum net gain for both totalled. Its easy and it must be right? Not really because light and on off are different things and one might have enough of one and not enough of the other. There is a sharp slope fall off in ANSI as you leave closest throw and a sharp slope fall off in on off as you leave longest throw. After a bit, the slope levels off and becomes a much more gentle curve almost leveling off to a straight line but still curved. Its a log function. In the middle you get more ANSI lumens than you would by mounting at long throw and more on off than you would be mounting at close throw. But, for example, you may need or want considerably more light and the increase in light by mounting at close throw may more than outweigh a modest gain in on off associated with mid throw mounting.

I understand now. I think I might not have as much choice as I thought I did of where to mount the projector. It turns out that the minimum throw distance I can use is around 15-16 feet, so that might be the setup that I have to use since I plan on doing a lot of ambient light viewing and I think I need all the lumens I can get. Anyways, I really appreciate all your help. Thanks!
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post #113 of 4344
10/3/11 at 9:28am
Quote:
Originally Posted by claymic View Post

Larryad
What screen are you using ? and the size ?
This projector looks great. I will get my Ae7000 next saturday. I have here a AE4000 with 0 lamp hours use and i will make some pictures about this projectors side-by-side.
Thanks man.
Clayton

I have a Da-lite 119" High Contrast Da Mat screen. It's a very light gray with only 0.8 gain. I'm using an adapted version of the Cinema 2 mode. I knocked the red brightness and gamma down a notch and the overall color about 3 notches. The lamp is in econo mode. For the most part with this screen I like this mode. It can however blow out some of the bright whites (then again that might just be the film). I really don't care for the Rec709 mode. While not bad, it just looks a little flat to me. The mode I'm using at least to my eye looks the most like what I see at the IMAX. I'll break out the calibration disk in the not too distant future. Right now I'm just getting aquainted with it. The unit does produce some beautiful, beautiful images.

I was worried about 3D on this screen but there are no issues. The emitter works fine with it and the image does not appear to be too dark even in dark scenes. I watched How to Train Your Dragon last night and there are many dark scenes. Everything was very discernable with detail and pop. I did notice my first instance of ghosting on this one. Very minor though. Overall this was a fun movie to watch at this size.
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post #114 of 4344
10/3/11 at 10:02am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Francis Medina View Post

How's the brightness of this projector? Is it bright enough to light up a 10-feet wide, 2:35, 1.3 gain screen?

I wonder as well. Cinema1 is measured at 526 lumens by PC; by contrast, HW30 measured at 850 lumens in Cinema1. I saw the HW30 demo at Magnolia with the 92" BD, it looked like a giant plasma tv, very intoxicating. I hope the 7000AE can throw that kind of pictures. I need something that can light up a 125" 2.35 screen.
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post #115 of 4344
10/3/11 at 10:19am
I see black level crush on the clowns.

It may be my imagination, but compared to my CRT (ref std for shadow details), I can resolve more details in the dark sections.

I want CRT black detail levels, with crisp images (no blur/ghosting/distortion), and 3D darn it. *sigh* The wait for the perfect projector continues.

As to the poor guy who had a defective panel out of the box (the lt blue blotch)...Try running it a few hours. It is possible to have temporary burn in with LCD panels where pixels kind of get stuck. Running them a few hours fixes this.

I'm surprised Panny QA didn't catch this. Don't they fire up each projector and do an automated basic screen shot analysis? (red, green, blue, white) before shipping? The time, cost and complexity would be minimal. It's in their best intrest really.
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post #116 of 4344
10/3/11 at 10:31am
Quote:
Originally Posted by DigitalGriffin View Post

As to the poor guy who had a defective panel out of the box (the lt blue blotch)...Try running it a few hours. It is possible to have temporary burn in with LCD panels where pixels kind of get stuck. Running them a few hours fixes this.

I think everyone else has been advising against this since PP will provide a full replacement if there are under 4 hours on the bulb.
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post #117 of 4344
10/3/11 at 10:33am
[quote=DigitalGriffin;21033205]I see black level crush on the clowns.

It may be my imagination, but compared to my CRT (ref std for shadow details), I can resolve more details in the dark sections.

I want CRT black detail levels, with crisp images (no blur/ghosting/distortion), and 3D darn it. *sigh* The wait for the perfect projector continues.

QUOTE]


And you may be able to with this projector as well. I don't know. I make no claims as to my photos or adjustments being reference. If it's perfection you're after though, you might be in for a mighty long wait, and a whole lotta dollars more.
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post #118 of 4344
10/3/11 at 10:37am
Now optimum set up. Every projector trades brightness vs on/off based on throw distance ratio. Place it closer, you get more ANSI lumens out but less on/off. Place it farther away and you gain on off and lose some ANSI lumens. The functions are a log function and putting things in the middle gives you probably close to the worst in any direction. From end to end, the fall off in either might be around 30% with most of the fall off occuring rapidly as one moves from an extreme. For maximum of either, one needs mounting close to an extreme. One has to chose their poison. What do you want? This will involve screen size and gain. What's the minimum of either you will accept? This is best discussed with a call as we can go into everything and you can make relevant choices, something you must do, not the advisor.
-------------
What exactly on / off
heard it before but got no information on this

thanks for your post
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post #119 of 4344
10/3/11 at 10:39am
Quote:
Originally Posted by natedogg661 View Post

I think everyone else has been advising against this since PP will provide a full replacement if there are under 4 hours on the bulb.

Good point. I missed those post.
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post #120 of 4344
10/3/11 at 10:43am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Larryad View Post

And you may be able to with this projector as well. I don't know. I make no claims as to my photos or adjustments being reference. If it's perfection you're after though, you might be in for a mighty long wait, and a whole lotta dollars more.

I know there's no such thing as "perfection". But black level crush/motion blur is one of the reasons I kept my CRT box. Panny solved the motion & 3D part. Looks like JVC solved the black level crush part. But neither has solved both problems.

It may be your camera that's crushing the black level details. I'm hoping it is as I really want this projector.

I'll see if I can get my Nikon D70 to show the differences in the shadow details. You can then compare my photos to your projector's using your eyes.
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