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Aftermarket amp for Kef psw2150

post #1 of 8
Thread Starter 
I have the psw2150 sub made by Kef. It's my THIRD one after the first two amps died. The sub has just died again (loud buzzing even when not connected to the receiver). This appears to be a common problem with these subs (amps). Anyway, I'm going to buy a different brand of sub as a replacement. However, it seems to be a shame not to use this sub for something (maybe in the den). Therefore, I want to put in an aftermarket amp. I see Dayton makes a 250wt plate amp.

Does anyone have experience with this (or similar) type of thing? Thanks.
post #2 of 8
I realize this is an old thread, but I JUST finished fixing my amp (had the buzzing sound), and it was very easy. It was also really cheap. The new cap required cost $1. I can lead you through how to fix it if you want.
post #3 of 8
I have the buzzing problem on my 2150. If you could walk me through the repair i would be most appreciative
post #4 of 8
Hi,

I would like to know any info on replacing amp in KEF PSW2150 also.
Mine died for the second time, a year or so ago - it's been sitting since then as not wanting to spend the money the shop charges.
If I could replace with after market or repair inexpensively - that would be great.

The shop had said he had a time opening the unit up. Is that not the case?
Id rather repair it over having it sit ant longer or selling it for parts - since I've already invested in it twice.

Any help would be appreciated.

namaste
post #5 of 8
Hey- I don't regularly check this site, so sorry for not responding earlier. Anyway, the "buzzing" fix is fairly easy. The C52 capacitor (location on the pcb, not a model number or rating) is located just above the two large smoothing caps on the amp.
First you need to locate a 47uF 100v 105degree radial capacitor. The one that has failed is a 63v 47uf 85degree one, but you need to "upgrade". I didn't have any place nearby that sold them, so I bought two from ebay. They cost $2 shipped.
Second, you need to take out the plate amp from the box, remove all the wire connectors connecting the amplifier part to the pre-amp part (the amplifier itself is the pcb that has the two large caps attached, and the transistors that are connected to the large heat sink.), and then unscrew the amp from the back plate.
I found that I was able to unsolder the C52 cap from the amp pcb without disassembling any more than this. If you're not able to access the posts underneath, then you'll need to unscrew the pcb from the bracket as well as unscrew the transistors from the heat sink. My advice is try first before going through this extra work. Make sure you note the polarity of the cap before removing it, and install the new one in the same orientation. Once the new cap is in, you just need to reassemble everything and plug it in.
post #6 of 8
I had the same problem... Thanks marvin, your advice just worked for me!
post #7 of 8
Old thread, but I want to try this and the ebay listing is gone. Would this work?

http://www.amazon.com/Nichicon-Thru-Hole-Aluminum-Electrolytic-Capacitor/dp/B0058V13QQ/ref=sr_1_1?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1360203386&sr=1-1

Nichicon 47uF 100V Thru-Hole Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitor RADIAL 20% (Bag of 5)

Thanks!
Rich
post #8 of 8
HOW ABOUT A PICTURE OR VIDEO FOR A LAY PERSON.smile.gif
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