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What features would you like in your next Oppo BR - e.g. Oppo BDP-113 and BDP-115. - Page 22

post #631 of 905
Quote:
Originally Posted by cheld View Post

GAPLESS

...when working as a Player and when working as a Renderer - perhaps using SetNextAVTransportURI (?) and/or the playlist extensions used by others.
post #632 of 905
Add AppleTV/Chromecast-like capabilities to browse/search content on a tablet or smartphone and then play on the Oppo+TV.

We can apparently do this now with YouTube - but it would be great to see it added for Vudu, Netflix, Hulu, Cinema Now, etc.
post #633 of 905
Add native (no streaming stick) support for PhotoBucket and Amazon Prime.
post #634 of 905
^ Be sure to tell Amazon that, too. Amazon can't happen unless they agree to take notice of OPPO and make the app available.
--Bob
post #635 of 905
AS A front projector viewer, my best aspiration for the next incarnation of the Oppo is solely for vastly improved video. Image is everything. The letdown to the present BDP-103 is using that Mediatek chip to handle video processing. For me, Mediatek sounds like those run-of-the-mill OEM processor/upscaler found inside OEM-churned BD brands like Insignia, Sherwood, Vizio, Bauhn, Coby, etc. Produced by the millions in Chinese/Taiwan factories, selling for three dollars in volume. For Oppo to asks again and again $499, $599, #1199 from the consumers, it ought to replace that cheap Mediatek part for a more respectable video processor. My prototype is this: The top iteration of HQV-Teranex-REALTA for SD-DVD and embedded Darbee DVP5100 for BD (not the plain vanilla DVP5000 nor the Cobalt - but the DVP5100). The Darbee ought to help also - if such a technical enhancement can be achieved - improved the HQV-driven SD a few more notches.

For the next next incarnation, HQ-Teranex-Realta PLUS DVDO to raise DVD to its ultimate resolution threshold + Marseille or Darbee video chip to upscale both SD and 1080p to quasi-4K level. This scheme ought not to be made for purely 4K TV but is still oriented for the millions of 1080p/720p plasma and DLP projector users.
post #636 of 905
You're asking for an integrated Darbee processor? You're in luck.

Mediatek has a really fine, unprocessed look these days. I would be happy with a Mediatek-only player, although I am not a projector owner, so cannot speak for what is best there.

-Bill
post #637 of 905
I haven't read this entire thread, so not sure if I'm the only one who wants:

DOLBY PRO LOGIC!!!! - I rather watch Netflix from my HTPC, and Netflix doesn't broadcast in Dolby Digital if you use a PC. So you can only hear it in 2-channel since The Oppo-105 doesn't have Dolby Pro Logic on it's digital inputs.

And if they do incorporate Dolby Pro Logic, they should give you the choice to override Dolby Digital and choose Pro-Logic manually. A lot of TV shows (off the air) are broadcast in Dolby Digital 2.0. I'd like to listen to those in Dolby Pro Logic mode so the vocals come from the center. Many news channels broadcast in DD 2.0.

DTS NEO 6 Flexability - Allow user to adjust front/back and center width. For turning 2-channel music into multi-channel, a little bit of flexability is needed.

Hope I'm not alone in my requests!
post #638 of 905
What I'm after for an ever-more improved Oppo is to enable the Darblet within to upscale SD and BD to 4K level - not just to enhance but to work a feasibly technical magic in expanding the two native resolutions. The Marseille video chip claims to do that, as a press release by Technicolor stated confidently (though the absence of any pictorial testimonials - say a still frame of the terrified Leeloo from the Fifth Element BD - is conspicuous and couldn't inspire much confidence). But because no one has yet reviewed the Toshiba BDX-6400 to verify if this Marseille solution is real, we only have the Oppo-Darbee combo to propel some evolutionary breakthroughs in improving video. I thought of the HQV-Realta equipping because, once a short time ago, Denon tried to raise what could be the highest bar for DVD video upscaling and the result for me is spectacular. This is upscaling with both Realta T2 and DVDO and even the subsequent Denon 3930 and then the BD3800, just couldn't approximate what the 5910 did with the image. Denon has not tried that again, and the 5910 has many cases of premature board & lens failure. But I'd like Oppo engineers to consider this combination - to improve video even more by using two upscaling engines - like Denon did, akin to using a twin car engine within a single car, two V8's. Might sound overkill for a car but not for video - especially for the giant screen projection purpose. The duo of engines might not be able, in the final result, to multiply lines or pixels to 4K levels, but projector fans is always happy to stumble upon what could go beyond Darbee or Oppo-Darbee....
post #639 of 905
PLEASE, GIVE US A CROSSOVER FREQUENCY OPTION DOWN TO 30Hz OR 35Hz (and with INCREMENTS OF 5Hz).

It would be very nice of Oppo to give us an option that NO OTHER MANUFACTURER DOES.
Edited by sharok - 10/6/13 at 6:01pm
post #640 of 905
^ You do realize, right, that with a Crossover of 30Hz you are expecting your Mains to be good down to 15Hz? The Crossover rolls into effect over about an octave (factor of 2 in frequency), so the Mains will be asked to reproduce important amounts of energy down to about 1/2 the Crossover (with the Subwoofer rolling in and picking up the rest over that same octave).
--Bob
post #641 of 905
An additional balanced output (via mini XLR) for another headphone with independent volume setting between the single ended and balanced output - this would allow two headphones to be driven by the unit. A more powerful op-amp to drive 600 ohm headphone units - maybe even allow rolling of op-amps.

Would like to see DTS Headphone X implementation on the firmware.

A stretch would be licensing the Smyth Virtual Surround (SVS). The ability to simulate high end (read that as expensive $$$) speaker systems on the Oppo would be an excellent application. I'm thinking that headphones is just a start.

Steve
post #642 of 905
I'd like to see HDMI 1 include more features of a standalone video processor, and make zooming etc. work no matter what disk is playing (consider it a separate video processor that just happens to be in the same box, and don't be limited by Blu-ray restrictions like the current models are).

For an extra $100 the 103D includes (presumably) an FPGA to run the Darbee algorithm, and I'd pay at least another $100 to include arbitrary scaling and masking (user-defined, with fine control to make odd aspect ratios fit scope screens, etc.). Maybe the VRS chip in the 103D can already do this, otherwise just use a larger FPGA.
post #643 of 905

I love it, it will be interesting to see if OPPO incorporates any of these suggestions, I will be happy if a couple of them make it such as automated EQ like DIRAC or Room Perfect from Lyngdorf;  Atmos, DTS MDA the audio is number one for me :)

post #644 of 905
What is the latest gossip from the grapevine as to when the next iteration of BDPs will arrive? Since they just unleashed a refresh with the Darbee edition, I am guessing the end of 2014.
post #645 of 905
Quote:
Originally Posted by vinnie97 View Post

What is the latest gossip from the grapevine as to when the next iteration of BDPs will arrive? Since they just unleashed a refresh with the Darbee edition, I am guessing the end of 2014.

Very good guess yes CEDIA 2014 only 11 months to go biggrin.gif
post #646 of 905
^
I have still got my 95 in service and under an extended warranty. smile.gif

I decided to by-pass the 105 and wait for the next release. It's only one more year or so, and I am really looking forward to hearing about what is going to be in the newest version in the "5" series.
post #647 of 905
Quote:
Originally Posted by classicrecording View Post^I have still got my 95 in service and under an extended warranty. smile.gif  I decided to by-pass the 105 and wait for the next release. It's only one more year or so, and I am really looking forward to hearing about what is going to be in the newest version in the "5" series.

Good for you I sold my 95 at a very good price so I bought the silver 105 :)

 

The next generation will have without a doubt HDMi 2.0 and hopefully DARBEE and DIRAC integrated

post #648 of 905
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Pariseau View Post

^ You do realize, right, that with a Crossover of 30Hz you are expecting your Mains to be good down to 15Hz? The Crossover rolls into effect over about an octave (factor of 2 in frequency), so the Mains will be asked to reproduce important amounts of energy down to about 1/2 the Crossover (with the Subwoofer rolling in and picking up the rest over that same octave).
--Bob

Good Afternoon Bob,

My mains go down to 24Hz (Martin Logan Summit X). What crossover would you choose for such speaker?
post #649 of 905
Please enable / add Auto Source Sensing / Switching. So I don't have to select input every time.
post #650 of 905
A
Quote:
Originally Posted by sharok View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Pariseau View Post

^ You do realize, right, that with a Crossover of 30Hz you are expecting your Mains to be good down to 15Hz? The Crossover rolls into effect over about an octave (factor of 2 in frequency), so the Mains will be asked to reproduce important amounts of energy down to about 1/2 the Crossover (with the Subwoofer rolling in and picking up the rest over that same octave).
--Bob

Good Afternoon Bob,

My mains go down to 24Hz (Martin Logan Summit X). What crossover would you choose for such speaker?

The Rule of Thumb would be something between 50Hz at the low end (which leaves an octave of good speaker response below that) and 90Hz at the high end (to keep male dialog out of the Sub and to keep the Sub non-localizable).

Pick whichever Crossover between 50 and 90Hz gives the best blend through the transition region -- a function of the bass response of your room and the placement of speakers and Sub in your room.

Note that you also have to check that the Phase setting in your Sub is working well (set speaker distances and volume trims before trying to check this). Proper Phase reduces cancellation between the Sub and Mains when they are playing the same content -- as due to Crossover.

If you don't have tools to measure with, the AIX, Audio Calibration, Blu-ray includes a Crossover test which sweeps up and down in bass frequency in the front speakers (with the Crossover sending the lowest of those to the Sub). If everything is right, then that will be constant volume throughout the frequency range of the sweep.
--Bob
Edited by Bob Pariseau - 10/15/13 at 2:49pm
post #651 of 905
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Pariseau View PostThe Rule of Thumb would be something between 50Hz at the low end (which leaves an octave of good speaker response below that) and 90Hz at the high end (to keep male dialog out of the Sub and to keep the Sub non-localizable).

Pick whichever Crossover between 50 and 90Hz gives the best blend through the transition region -- a function of the bass response of your room and the placement of speakers and Sub in your room.

Note that you also have to check that the Phase setting in your Sub is working well (set speaker distances and volume trims before trying to check this). Proper Phase reduces cancellation between the Sub and Mains when they are playing the same content -- as due to Crossover.

So you are saying that even for full range speakers like B&W800 Diamond you would cross the sub at 50HZ?  They go down to 32Hz

 

http://www.bowers-wilkins.com/Speakers/Home_Audio/800_Series_Diamond/800-Diamond.html

post #652 of 905
What I'm saying is that you want an Octave of good speaker response BELOW the Crossover frequency because a significant amount of bass energy will still go to those speakers through that transition Octave (factor of 2 in frequency).

So if your speakers are good down to 30Hz, you would want a Crossover no lower than 60Hz. At 60Hz essentially all the audio is going to the Mains. At 30Hs essentially all is going to the Sub. In between there is a mix going to both, so you want the speakers to be capable of good output down to 30Hz.

If you were to set a Crossover of 30Hz (which is lower than the OPPO allows at the moment), the Mains would still be getting important amounts of audio down to 15Hz, which is below the spec for your speakers.

FOR NEWBIES: The Crossover filter is not a hard cutoff. I.e., when you set a Crossover of 60Hz that does NOT mean all frequencies below 60Hz go exclusively to the Sub. Doing a hard cutoff like that -- what's called a "brick wall" filter -- would introduce artifacts (distortion) in the audio. OPPO has not actually published the "slope" of their Crossover filter, but a typical slope is -12dB per octave, so that with a 60 Hz Crossover that means audio in the main speaker channels is attenuated by -12dB one octave below that -- i.e., at 30 Hz. Which is a significant amount of attenuation. Of course the audio isn't lost because it's going to the Subwoofer instead. In any event, this is where the Rule of Thumb comes from that you want at least an Octave (factor of 2 in frequency) of capable bass response from your speakers BELOW your chosen Crossover frequency.
--Bob
Edited by Bob Pariseau - 10/17/13 at 10:29am
post #653 of 905
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Pariseau View PostWhat I'm saying is that you want an Octave of good speaker response BELOW the Crossover frequency because a significant amount of bass energy will still go to those speakers through that transition Octave (factor of 2 in frequency).

So if your speakers are good down to 30Hz, you would want a Crossover no lower than 60Hz. At 60Hz essentially all the audio is going to the Mains. At 30Hs essentially all is going to the Sub. In between there is a mix going to both, so you want the speakers to be capable of good output down to 30Hz.

If you were to set a Crossover of 30Hz (which is lower than the OPPO allows at the moment), the Mains would still be getting important amounts of audio down to 15Hz, which is below the spec for your speakers.

FOR NEWBIES: The Crossover filter is not a hard cutoff. I.e., when you set a Crossover of 60Hz that does NOT mean all frequencies below 60Hz go exclusively to the Sub. Doing a hard cutoff like that -- what's called a "brick wall" filter -- would introduce artifacts (distortion) in the audio. OPPO has not actually published the "slope" of their Crossover filter, but a typical slope is -12dB per octave, so that with a 60 Hz Crossover that means audio in the main speaker channels is attenuated by -12dB one octave below that -- i.e., at 30 Hz. Which is a significant amount of attenuation. Of course the audio isn't lost because it's going to the Subwoofer instead. In any event, this is where the Rule of Thumb comes from that you want at least an Octave (factor of 2 in frequency) of capable bass response from your speakers BELOW your chosen Crossover frequency.
--Bob

I see thank you 60HZ really whoa!  So those bookshelf speakers should all be crossed over at 100Hz at least for HT?

 

My pre pro has a -24db slope and a -12db slope which one should I choose in your opinion? Bob are you an audio engineer?

post #654 of 905
^ Bookshelf speakers are a problem because if you set the Crossover too high you will be diverting male dialog to the Sub (not a good thing), and also making the sub more localizable. It should not be possible to tell that audio is coming from the sub's location. Bass should appear to come (from everywhere) -- which among other things is what makes it possible for a sub to provide bass support for all your speakers even though they are in different parts of the room. Low bass is not localizable because it has a wavelength on the order of room dimensions and thus exists as standing waves in the room -- often stated as that the sub "pressurizes" the air volume of the room so bass is coming from all sides.

Now, what usually happens is either people use a high Crossover (which by the way also means you need a good enough sub to reproduce bass up that high) and just live with the issues above, or they use a normal crossover like 80 or 90Hz and just live with a small hole in between where the bookshelf speakers can't QUITE reproduce enough, but the stuff also isn't being sent to the Sub yet. It's not like a complete gap of course because the bookshelf speakers will be producing at least SOMETHING down there -- just not at highest quality.

There's lots of debate on "best" Crossover slope. You can experiment of course but -12dB per octave is typical.

As for your last question, no, but I can play one on TV.
--Bob
post #655 of 905
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Pariseau View Post^ Bookshelf speakers are a problem because if you set the Crossover too high you will be diverting male dialog to the Sub (not a good thing), and also making the sub more localizable. It should not be possible to tell that audio is coming from the sub's location. Bass should appear to come (from everywhere) -- which among other things is what makes it possible for a sub to provide bass support for all your speakers even though they are in different parts of the room. Low bass is not localizable because it has a wavelength on the order of room dimensions and thus exists as standing waves in the room -- often stated as that the sub "pressurizes" the air volume of the room so bass is coming from all sides.

Now, what usually happens is either people use a high Crossover (which by the way also means you need a good enough sub to reproduce bass up that high) and just live with the issues above, or they use a normal crossover like 80 or 90Hz and just live with a small hole in between where the bookshelf speakers can't QUITE reproduce enough, but the stuff also isn't being sent to the Sub yet. It's not like a complete gap of course because the bookshelf speakers will be producing at least SOMETHING down there -- just not at highest quality.

There's lots of debate on "best" Crossover slope. You can experiment of course but -12dB per octave is typical.

As for your last question, no, but I can play one on TV.
--Bob

So basically one should really use full range speakers all around so not to miss any thing! 

 

I guess I will experiment with the settings and see what sounds best for music since I don't listen to Organ music I will leave the speakers with no crossover :)

 

You didn't say do you have an engineering degree?

post #656 of 905
We here at "Bob Pariseau" have many, and varied credentials, all beavering away in anonymity of course. It's all very mysterious, really.
--Bob
post #657 of 905
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Pariseau View Post

We here at "Bob Pariseau" have many, and varied credentials, all beavering away in anonymity of course. It's all very mysterious, really.
--Bob
Sweet! smile.gif
post #658 of 905
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Pariseau View Post

We here at "Bob Pariseau" have many, and varied credentials, all beavering away in anonymity of course. It's all very mysterious, really.
--Bob

HAHAHAHAHAHAHA That is very funny...really! smile.gif I wish there was a laughing emoticon. I would past a dozen. No sarcasm intended. I appreciate all the information you pass on.
post #659 of 905
http://www.oppodigital.com/future/

I think the next player will not have headphone capability if they are developing a stand alone product.
post #660 of 905
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