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Fried Infinity PS210

post #1 of 27
Thread Starter 
Last night I was finishing up the integration of my new Samsung PN59D6500 plasma and discovered both my 3 year old Infinity PS210 subs are not producing any audio.

Red power light on, flickers green on signal, no audio.

Thought "blown fuse" and removed the rear panel screws, pulled the main board, fuse fine, main power caps look okay, some evidence of over-heating on opposite side of circuit board (near what looks to be a varistor and the power regulator IC).

OK, so fried boards. My question is -- does this happen a lot with Infinity subs? Is three years still in warranty?

Assuming I have to get new subs, I am reluctant to get another pair of Infinities. I have been a faithful Infinity customer since the late 70's, but feel their quality has gone down to the point it's probably not worth sticking with them any longer.
post #2 of 27
It seems rather odd that they would both go out at the same time. Although I would agree with your assessment not to keep them. I found a SSW-10 at a garage sale that needed refoaming so I bought it, redid the surround and plugged it in. It seemed pretty anemic. Maybe pretty decent in a really small room but it produced very little in my space. Most guys here recommend an ID sub because you get so much more bang for your buck. What is your budget? Size of room?
post #3 of 27
The warranty on the electronics is one year.
With the exception of the current JBL L8400P, Infinity and JBL subwoofers have had difficulties with their electronics for more than 10 years.
If you have a somewhat smaller room, you might consider the Hsu STF-2 that would be an upgrade from the 12" Infinity.
post #4 of 27
What you experienced is common for Infinity subs. From what I've read, they have a tendency to run hot. Electronics that run hot don't last very long.

Losing both at the same time is really bad luck. One of them going out may have caused a voltage spike in the other. Who knows?
post #5 of 27
Thread Starter 
Update for anybody who is interested -- I opened them up and went over the amp boards, located the problem. Burned NTE185 and NTE184 amplifier/switching IC, same problem on both subs. Bad enough it was starting to delaminate the board under the components and lift traces. Ordered new IC's from Allied Electronics online, about $15.00 shipped. Would post pics but the ability to do that on AVS seems to have disappeared (?)

Hopefully, replacing those circuits resolves the problem. There are some surface mount transistors near the failed IC's that might have been affected as well (don't want to get into desoldering and replacing SM components if I can avoid it).
post #6 of 27
Originally Posted by SalsaNChips View Post

...My question is -- does this happen a lot with Infinity subs?...

Yes. Happened to mine too (a couple years ago) and when I went in search of some answers I discovered this is the typical fate of all those model Infinity subs within the first 2 or 3 years. Mine was almost 3 years old at the time of failure and mode was 'fried components' on a fried board. If I remember correctly it appears there are some large high wattage resistors that puts out quite a bit of heat but because of stupidity there is no place for the heat to dissipate to. The amp is enclosed in a small and essentially air tight space... sealed off from all outside air. The molded plastic box has generous ventilation slots molded into back, I'd assumed, meant to facilitate ventilation by natural heat convection but unfortunately the plastic stick-on sheet with the labels completely covers all these vents up... so the components inside are eternally cooking in this 'oven' until they eventually literally burn-out over time. Had I known this when I first bought the sub I would have simply cut out the plastic sheet where the vents are located and I'll bet the sub would still be working today.
post #7 of 27
Thread Starter 
Yes, I saw those resistors, 2.5 Kohms and 190 ohms (? hard to tell, brown or red, so faded from heat). PCB turning brown and brittle under them. Way to go Infinity :\\

I will replace the amp IC's and see if that restores function. If so, and I am motivated enough, I may poke around on the PCB for a 12V DC power point and hook a small chassis fan up to help with the cooling.

I could just trash and replace these subs easily enough. I think this may be one of those rare "I AM GOING TO FIX THIS" obsessive moments
post #8 of 27
Originally Posted by SalsaNChips View Post

...I could just trash and replace these subs easily enough. I think this may be one of those rare "I AM GOING TO FIX THIS" obsessive moments

I think its worth the fix if it can be done cheaply and easily enough... I personally thought it sounded very articulate and blended in well with my vintage Infinity speakers. Also I purchased it brand new from a guy for only $120 shipped, so I couldn't complain... if only it had lasted longer.
post #9 of 27
I'm having the same issue with my PS210. There is a lot of discoloration under the 4 large resistors. Have you had any luck replacing the ICs and adding a ventilation fan? Could one order replacement resistors with heat sinks?
post #10 of 27
i experienced the same issue with my ps210 sub after 2 years. I pulled out the amp board and noticed the discoloration under the 4 resistors, near the nte 184 and nte 185. i'm not an expert on electronics and i would like to ask which position q1 and q2 related to the nte 184 and nte 185? i would like to attempt to fix the unit by replacing these 2 compoments.

thanks, ag
post #11 of 27
Yep, same thing. I had the flickering green light and crackling sound around 3 years ago a few months before the 3-year warranty was about to expire and had it fixed a local Infinity-authorized repair shop. Today, I noticed no light and no sound and took out the amplifier module which is enclosed in a plastic container and the main circuit board was completely burnt through right under some copper coils mounted on it and a large part of the circuit board blackened entirely. It was so hot in there that it deformed the rather thick plastic casing through to the outside.

In summary, for me at least, the amplifier section fails right around 3 years due to running too hot. At this point it's out of warranty and I wouldn't trust that the root cause has been fixed, and therefore I will not be looking to have it repaired again. I might look for another subwoofer amplifier module which I can plug into the speaker / enclosure. Any ideas would be appreciated.
post #12 of 27
You can look at replacement plate amps from Parts Express or OAudio. You may need to cut and paste to get them to fit.
You can also consider an outboard amplifier where you wire directly to the speaker in the subwoofer.
post #13 of 27
i also have a infinity ps210 subwoofer

circuit board fried beyond repair.i repair speakers but had a audio repair tech check out the amp in this sub
and he told me this is a poor quality amp and a person should feel lucky if it makes it through the
warranty.I wouldn't buy another infinity sub or any other sub that does not have external cooling fins on the
back.this piece of junk amp is in a sealed plastic case with no way for the heat to escape.I am now running
an external dedicated mono bass amp to run my sub.Infinity needs to quit cutting costs on what they make because
they are losing there reputation of a quality company.
post #14 of 27
Did replacing the NTE184 and NTE185 transistors fix your problem?
post #15 of 27
Hey I'm having a similar problem with my PS 210. Three years after owning it the sub wouldn't turn on. Just today I saw the fuse was blown so I replaced that. After turning it on the fuse instantly blew and the back side of the board was covered in soot. At this point I doubt its worth anything. My guess is when one of the Hurricanes came up the east coast it fried the sub, though nothing else was affected. Does anybody have any recomendations on what to replace it with for a small room? the 10" was a little overkill so it'll probably be a 8".

post #16 of 27
Outlaw M8 subwoofer would be my choice if your looking for a small 8" sub. Have one in my bedroom and it performs very well!

post #17 of 27
I'll check it out thx. Any idea how they compare to the Polk PSW 10, even though that's back to a 10".
post #18 of 27
Originally Posted by Cruzzin View Post

I'll check it out thx. Any idea how they compare to the Polk PSW 10, even though that's back to a 10".
There isn't much that's worse than a PSW-10.
post #19 of 27
Wow that sucks. Looks like I'm back to the starting point. Probably will work on repairing the PS210 then. Has anybody used the repair services on eBay then? I'm not to tech savvy with these kind of projects or I'd try and replace the parts myself.
post #20 of 27
Usually it's just the amp capacitors themselves. It's pretty easy to tell if their bad. Just take a look at them. If they have a bloated or swollen look to them they're bad. It's super easy to swap them out. Unsolder the old ones paying attention to the polarity, and solder in the new ones.
post #21 of 27
I am having issues with my PS210 but only with u-verse TV stations (some). I get buzzing and clipping sounds. the light appears green when i look.
I connected to a Onkyo HT-RC270 receiver. Internet radio, tuner and PS3 seem to work fine with the sub so i am confused if the issue is ONLY the sub or the u-verse source?

post #22 of 27
Well it seems my issues are the same as many here (not my u-verse STB) and the Infinity PS210 has troubles.
i am not electronically educated but pulled the panel out. I do not see anything apparently wrong (but it was very HOT).

Any ideas and/or photos to look to determine any issues?

I have a Ohm meter so with instructions i can do some tests..

Or is it not worth trying to fix and get an HSU....?

post #23 of 27
Mine does not crackle, but I have to turn mine on then off with a signal present. Then it will work. Anyone have an idea how to fix that or should I just pull it apart and see what is singed.
post #24 of 27
Keeping this old thread alive...

I dug up my old Infinity PS210 out of my closet, expecting it to still work, but lo and behold it has the same problem that everyone else has described. The scorching on the bottom of the circuit board is not nearly as bad as other peoples', but I'm sure those two transistors must have failed. Can anyone confirm that replacing those two transistors (and nothing else) has solved their problem? Also, my transistors seem to be MJE243 and MJE253, not the ones mentioned earlier. Should I stick with an exact replacement, or has anyone found ones that can handle increased heat?

Lastly, has anyone here poked open those holes and installed a chassis fan? It seems like once I get this thing back up and running, a 50mm case fan should fit nicely over the newly-created ventilation holes. If someone has done this, how did you power it, and do you have it running 24x7? I hear the heat issue happens even in standby (which mine was in 99% of the time).

Thanks, everyone!
post #25 of 27
I got mine fixed by a guy on ebay. So far it works much better.

post #26 of 27
Has anyone who used the eBay repair people checked to see what kind of fix they applied? I'm curious if they add any heatsinks to the transistors, if they open op the ventilation holes in the chassis, and/or if they add a case fan.
post #27 of 27
I seem to recall some electrical parts like caps, etc. But with better than original. They respond well to qUestions. But no fan or holes apparently needed.
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