HDHomerun Prime Owners Thread - Page 37

Originally Posted by Karyk 

I'm not getting all of my channels again from Comcast. Before it was a filter left over from my Limited Basic days. This is slightly different. For one thing, it seems to affect different channels at different times.

In WMC I get a no signal message, but if I go to the HDHR programs, it shows 100% signal, but in the channel name it adds "[No Data.]" If I try to go to a channel I'm not subscribed to, I get a message to that effect.

Any idea what could be causing that sort of problem? The first Comcast rep I spoke with didn't have a clue--he told me I had upgraded to "Limited Basic" back in September, and wanted me to unplug my HDMI cable as part of his problem solving. The second one knew more, but still couldn't help me.

Originally Posted by WaterBoyz 

Checking out some of my status reporting.
See anything that needs attention?

Tuner 1 Status
Virtual Channel 854 FAMHD
Frequency 729.000 MHz
Program Number 854
Authorization subscribed
CCI Protection unrestricted
CGMS Protection n/a

Modulation Lock qam256
PCR Lock locked
Signal Strength 69% (-18.6 dBmV)
Signal Quality 91% (33.8 dB)
Symbol Quality 100%

Streaming Rate 6.043 Mbps

Originally Posted by WaterBoyz 

Here ya go.......
Channel ID - 4 Bonding Channel Value
Frequency = 681000000 Hz
Signal to Noise Ratio = 37 dB
Downstream Modulation = QAM256
Power Level = 1 dBmV

Channel ID - 6 Bonding Channel Value
Frequency = 693000000 Hz
Signal to Noise Ratio = 38 dB
Downstream Modulation = QAM256
Power Level = 2 dBmV

Originally Posted by Sammy2 


Compression Fitting


Crimp Fitting

Originally Posted by Sammy2 

Did you ever replace the fittings? The only fittings the Charter techs use in this area are the compression fittings and if they see a cable without them they will make up a cable for you on the spot for free.

Originally Posted by Dark_Slayer 


Comcast previously didnt have any real techs in this area, they sub contracted those duties to people who were required to purchase there own cable, splitters, and fittings

Then when I moved service a year ago, the tech explained to me that they were moving away from that model and he was a direct employee for Comcast

Both used crimp fittings. They're all through my residence, I've never seen compression fittings or knew they existed until your picture

Originally Posted by Dark_Slayer 

I can't see how a hit took less than a minute for me, but 2-3 days for someone else. This is electricity we are talking about, there shouldn't be some holding pattern from a Tier 2 tech your on the phone with. If they "send" a hit, it could travel around the world over a million times in 2-3 days

If your device activates, but not all channels in your "subscription" are available then your local office needs to verify that your cablecard / account information / subscription plan all match. Otherwise you'll be missing channels or receiving more (missing is more likely )

Originally Posted by signcarver 

You also provided info about using a two way splitter for modem and tv with the tv line going to a 4 way splitter to 2 primes and 2 STBs... so I asked about modem signal level since its usually easy to see
Generally the loss from a 4 way splitter is about 7-8 dBmV so using the above figures, your signal should be at about -5 or -6 going into the prime. I'm trying to remember the loss of the internal split of the prime (I won't be at the location of my prime for another couple of weeks) even though the prime has an internal 4 way splitter (3 regular tuners and one oob tuner) I don't see it going from +2 to -18 even adjusting for the slight loss of the higher frequency as 693 isn't far from 729... from what I've read on reviews of the prime it should be a 0 insertion loss split internally (though I think I had about 2 to 3 db loss) not the 20 (extra 13) you are seeing which almost makes me think a diplexer is being used somewhere or just a bad cable or bad splitter. What are the signal levels like on the cable box. Most have some diagnostic screens you can view (for S/A boxes its usually holding in the center button on the box itself until an indicator blinks then press info or something like that)... Its also possible the prime itself is bad but I wouldn't think two of them would experience that.

Originally Posted by WaterBoyz 

Here ya go.......

Motorola Surfboard SB-6120

Downstream
Channel ID - 1 Bonding Channel Value
Frequency = 663000000 Hz
Signal to Noise Ratio = 37 dB
Downstream Modulation = QAM256
Power Level = 1 dBmV

Channel ID - 3 Bonding Channel Value
Frequency = 675000000 Hz
Signal to Noise Ratio = 37 dB
Downstream Modulation = QAM256
Power Level = 1 dBmV

Channel ID - 4 Bonding Channel Value
Frequency = 681000000 Hz
Signal to Noise Ratio = 37 dB
Downstream Modulation = QAM256
Power Level = 1 dBmV

Channel ID - 6 Bonding Channel Value
Frequency = 693000000 Hz
Signal to Noise Ratio = 38 dB
Downstream Modulation = QAM256
Power Level = 2 dBmV


Upstream
Channel ID - 4 Bonding Channel Value
Frequency = 34800000 Hz
Ranging Service ID = 6750
Symbol Rate = 5.120 Msym/sec
Power Level =48 dBmV
Upstream Modulation = [3] QPSK [3] 64QAM

Channel ID - 5 Bonding Channel Value
Frequency = 27900000 Hz
Ranging Service ID = 6750
Symbol Rate = 2.560 Msym/sec
Power Level = 48 dBmV
Upstream Modulation = [3] QPSK [3] 16QAM

Originally Posted by willchrevans 

... The second told me that it'd take about 20mins to an hour for my channels to 'download'. I immediately rolled my eyes, but said ok. ...

Originally Posted by Foxbat121 

From my personal experience, a SA8300HD cable DVR box (I had two of them one time) can work with signal level as low as -15 to -20 dbmv but HDHR Prime can only work with signal no lower than -9dbmv. Also, signal levels vary a lot depending on the channel frequency. The higher the frequency, the lower the signal level will be. So, to check if you have enough signal level, you need to tune to a channel that is highest frequency (close to 850Mhz in most cases).

Originally Posted by kegobeer 

WaterBoyz, have you considered buying a powered amplifier instead of daisy chaining splitters together?

Originally Posted by Foxbat121 

try tune different channels on your Prime and use Prime's internal web page to check for channel frequency and signal level.

Originally Posted by WaterBoyz 

Something like this?

Linkee Powered Amp



When I get the HTPC working with no glitches and my Supervisor has given the OK, the main Comcast HD-DVR STBox is going away. So I will only need one Comcast non-DVR STbox. Thus I will need to replace the 4-way with a 3-way.

Another step is to get rid of that Comcast non-DVR STBox but I'm not sure with what yet. It is used for limited viewing since it is in the bedroom. Then I will only have the modem and the 2 Primes. Open to suggestions on the replacement.

Originally Posted by WaterBoyz 

OK, changed the coax configuration.
See post # 1092 and # 1101.

Single Prime into the 2-way splitter:
Signal Strength 86% -8.1DB
Signal Quality 100% 36.4DB

Single Prime directly attached to the cable from the demarcation box.
Signal Strength 93% -3.9DB
Signal Quality 100% 37.1DB

Originally Posted by Sammy2 

This is pretty decent but the CableCo should be giving you 100% at the point of demarcation.

You need to put the prime first above all else. Have one 1 to 2 splitter go to the prime and then everything else on the other leg.

Originally Posted by Foxbat121 

In my experience most attenuation happens > 750Mhz. IIRC from his earlier post, his modem is only on 350Mhz or so. In my setup (even with a power amp from cable co since I have a very long drop line), the difference between that and top end could as much as 20dbmv.

My suggestion to replace the cable box, get a WMC extender box like Xbox 360 or Echo or those old box from eBay and use the existing coax line for MoCA networking.

Originally Posted by benjaminmarle 

He would have to use different splitters if he uses MoCA. The splitters pictured only go to 1000Mhz and MoCA operates higher than that.

Originally Posted by signcarver 

{sorry, I have spent some time editting this, and was called away from the desk for awhile and haven't seen the posts in the past couple of hours)

I assume the STB was tuned to the same channel for testing. Didn't think of that. Also, before going into fixing anything else, is there currently a problem? In re-reading your posts, it seems the new cablecard was working Yes and there was a problem with picture quality Could be the difference between HD and SD of the same program but I assume that was the color/black levels (nominal range) not pixilization and you asked if people "saw anything that needed attention" Which is where this whole signal level thing came into play as it is reporting too low of a signal. So it could be that all this work is for nothing (but I almost guarantee if you have any problems, people will point to that signal level first)

How much time do you have for this where it won't inconvenience others trying to use the STB, including any recordings scheduled on the dvr ... I'd suggest trying to plug in directly to the 2-way disconnecting the other 3 boxes for a short while and see if that primes signal level goes up to -8 as it should be at least 7 dBmV higher without the 4-way splitter. If the improvement causes it to go to -6 or better, I would take a close look at that "jumper" (inline male coupler) used between the two splitters as it looked like it has seen better days. I replaced it with a new gold plated unit with the new splitters. If possible, I'd also like to try hooking the prime up to the same line as one of the STBs and/or the stb to the line of the prime to make sure its not the cable going to the prime. The STBoxes are upstairs, the Primes are in the basement. The current coax to the prime I'm working with is a not new cable. I will make a new cable and report back. If a "real" tech (sorry, had to put "real" in as I see a number of installers just be able to connect things not test them) were out there, there are some line tests he can do that would make such moving unnecessary but you have to work with what you got and in this case its using the modem, prime and the STBs to determine signal quality. (It still might not be a bad idea to have someone analyze each line)

Earlier you mentioned returning a box and going from the 4-way to a 3-way, which I wanted to reply just use the 4 way and get rid of the 2 way as the modem should still have a great signal which made me think of another thing you could try but is something that is generally frowned upon to the point that I can't believe I'd mention it (and is why I didn't reply earlier) and that is to enter the 4-way first then use the two way to connect one leg of the 4-way to your STBs since they are more tolerant of a reduced signal however it is very possible that such a setup will reduce the quality of the signal going to the STBs to the point that they can no longer work since a lower quality signal is then being split. Nice thought process but I think I'll pass on this for the moment. As you mentioned, splitting the signal again after a 4-way may just be too little. I do have a new 3-way to put into service as a possible test.

{edit based on other updates)

What I don't get is there is good signal to the modem off the 2 way (+2) which means a +5 signal is coming into the house (and you really don't want anything higher) so what is coming in should be the same as going to the prime (the frequency of the modem was fairly high in relationship to most channels as it was physically 102 and your test of virtual 170 was at 115 physically... most plants go to about 134 though a GHz plant usually go to about 150, I'm old too and like the channel numbers rather than frequencies but since we have physical and virtual channel numbers it can get confusing) What happens if you try the other prime? Since Sammy replied, I am curious what his splitter/modem prime set up is like and what his signal levels are compared to modem (include frequency if possible) as I thought I read the prime had a 0 loss splitter internally and I'm not at a location I can check my own setup