My Epson 3010 projector just arrived! - Page 64

It seems your ATI card has issues. So far i know that there should be 2 3D resolutions provided by any 3D capable card, 720p and 1080p. Since i do not use ATI therefore i do not know much abut its setup. There is something to do with your ATI graphic properties. Does your card capable to play 3d 1080p? If so then may be you can try different drivers. Well this has nothing to do with 3010 or denon avr for sure. If you can return your ATI card and replace it with nVidia then do that to try.

Has anyone seen Madagascar 3 (3D) on 3010? How was the experience as far as crosstalk/ghosting is concerned.

Has seen Madagascar3 on my 3010. Had great pop-outs and couldn't notice any cross talks.

Why is it we are not getting that stunning pop-outs which Sammys Adventure has. Saw reviews of top 7 blurays here, but no film can hold a candle to Sammys.I now have more than 37 3D bluray discs and nothing comes close to Sammy. Yesterday again showed it to my frnds, they were really amazed. True reference disc!!

I have. Its stunning. No crosstalk whatsoever. Buy one.

Check out my replacement Epson 3010 Saga here:
http://www.avsforum.com/t/1447141/getting-a-replacement-3010

It's still under way..... Anyone go through something like this and finally get a good projector?

Thanks,
Mike

So a quick update.

Upon further research online, it seems that ATI drivers are to blame as many people are having an issue with 3D playback at proper 1080p.

As I researched I saw many references to an earlier version of ATI drivers that supposedly did output 3D at 1080p.

So I downloaded ATI drivers version 11-7 and now I get proper playback in TMT5 for 3D blu-ray ISO rips outputting at full 1080p.

Now if I can just fix the crash I experience when exiting TMT 5 and returning back to media browser with auto frequency enabled, everything would work perfectly.

Thanks again for the help Mankhan

I experienced a similar situation with two epson projector models, the 8350 and 3010.

I went through about 7-8 different 8350 units before I decided enough was enough and decided to get the 3010.

However, I received defective after defective 3010 units until about the 4th or 5th that I decided I just need to keep one. My current one works for the most part, the auto Iris is loud as heck but I am tired of switching them out and readjusting everything.

I also had Best buy perform a calibration on my unit. However, the tech did not calibrate the 3D aspect of it and just told me to copy my 2D settings over to the 3D inputs. This however causes the picture to be too dark and I lost a lot of detail. I will attempt to get the 3D calibrated myself using Disney WOW disc.

So make sure if/when you get a good 3010 and you decide to get best buy calibration, make sure to have the tech calibrate the 2D and 3D inputs.

good luck with your epson experience. I would have bought a more expensive projector, however I am an unemployed recent college graduate with limited funds so I had to put up with replacing numerous projectors.

You are most welcome, however, what crash issue you are having now? can you explain a bit.

Ok, I tried Epson glasses on Avengers (which has a lot of depth and hence layer seperaton) and I am glad to report that there is no ghosting what soever, so looks like epson glasses have something gong for them afterall.

Did Best Buy use a light meter to do full blown calibration or did they just use one of those WOW discs?

Did you notice any difference in calibration before and after?

Could you post your settings please?

The issue occurs when TMT5, specifically the version 5.3.1.146 and newer, has the "automatic refresh rate switching" enabled.

When starting movie via media browser, it plays in the TMT WMC plugin, however, when stopping the movie after it is over and the display needs to be changed back to 60hz, it causes WMC to crash and needs to be restarted.

Again, this only occurs for movies that launch from media browser, is played in the WMC TMT plugin, auto refresh rate is enabled, crashes when stopping movie and screen rate changes back to 60hz.

This issue is a about 6 months old now and according to a rep for TMT, it occurs because of how media browser launches movies. However, according to media browser forums, the issues lies with TMT.

Here are some thread that talk about this issue.
http://community.mediabrowser.tv/permalinks/11781/2-6-crashes-on-exit-from-tmt5

http://www.avsforum.com/t/1285815/totalmedia-theatre-5/3330#post_22302608
starting with post #3332 and on it is discussed

http://www.arcsoft.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=10372&KW=&PID=47369&title=crash-after-stopping-playback-with-auto-refresh#47369

They used a light meter so it was a full blown calibration. The tech was there about 30+ minutes, mainly because I had already done a good job calibrating it using disney WOW blu-ray.
I did notice better blacks, and a more natural color. Apparently my calibration, I had red way too high. I would say it is definitely worth it. My screen is a very basic screen that only cost a few hundred bucks for a 150" so I can only imagine what a nicer screen would look like.

Here are my settings.
Color mode: Cinema
Brightness: 1
Contrast: 1
Color Saturation: 0
Tint: 0
Sharpness: standard
Abs. Color Temp: 6500k
Skin tone: 3
Power Consumption: normal
Auto Iris: High Speed

Gamma: 2.2
RGB
Offset R: -14
Offset G: 0
Offset B: 4
Gain R: -9
Gain G: 0
Gain B: 1

RGBCMY
R
Hue: 0
Saturation: 0
Brightness: 5

G
Hue: 0
Saturation: 0
Brightness: -3

B
Hue: 0
Saturation: 4
Brightness: -6

C
Hue: 0
Saturation: 13
Brightness: -12

M
Hue: 5
Saturation: 0
Brightness: 9

Y
Hue: 2
Saturation: -12
Brightness: 8

Other settings
Noise reduction off
Super white off
overscan off
HDMI Video Range AUTO

ATI Pixel Format
YCbCr 4:2:2

Khalid, sorry, I use nVidia therefore auto switching option is grayed out and its better. I play all my 2D blu-rays at 60Hz and it is perfect. Switching to 23 or 24 have many issues all around, besides at 23 or 24 Hz TMT responds very slow. I dont use WMC as well. I just play BDs directly from TMT or PDVD. I think you should not use auto switching and every thing will be alright. Only 3D BDs are played automatically on 23Hz and that is fine.

Thanks for posting your calibration. First of all how come you have 150" screen and you use "Cinema" mode. On such big screen "Cinema" mode i think is dull. I have 134" and I use "living room" and i think it is wonderful. I shall try Cinema and your adjustments and shall report here.

Also this is for 2D, what about 3D adjustments?

Now if someone could find the setting to turn on frame interpolation and other than the lens shifting of the 5020, we would all have near 5020s...

Wonder if the THX setting is also in there...?

I doubt those features would be available with a "user hack", since I mentioned in your other post, the dip switches were compared, and were all the same with the exception of the lcd alignment feature.

Am i the only one who can't stand the way cinema mode looks ? I looks the dark and dull.........there is no pop in the picture. I have tried all the viewing modes and i always go back to Dynamic.... to me it looks the best.

Guess not..but I can hope...

Several months ago, I had great success with LCD alignment when I had my 3010 on a table. Now I mounted it on ceiling and by mistake deleted all my LCD alignment settings and tried to do it again and this time it was a horrible experience as I could not see what the hell was going on with the cross-hairs on both RED and BLUE. Now my LCD is worse off than without alignment

Does anyone have any success with aligning ceiling mounted 3010? I vaguely remember there was some issue with ceiling mounting that was fixed on 5010 with a FW upgrade. If so anyone tried FW upgrade of their 3010 ?

o/ i've aligned ceiling mounted 3010

The tech selected cinema mode. I believe because it is the setting that is closest to a natural color reproduction. Also brightness can be adjusted easily to compensate for the darker cinema mode, where as color would be more difficult to get perfect.
As it is right now calibrated, I have no issues with brightness at 150" with a 20' throw distance. Picture is bright and has pop to it.
Regarding the 3D, the tech told me to manually input the cinema calibrated settings when in the 3D mode, however it is much too dark and I plan I adjusting it myself with Disney WOW. I think he was in a hurry or something. Maybe I'll call and see if they also adjust 3D when they go out to a customers' houses.
Personally I felt the same way when I first got into projectors about two years ago with the 8350, however, I felt the picture was never quite right looking. So I bought a copy of Disney's WOW calibration disc and adjusted every mode. After all was said and done, living room mode looked the best to me with the perfect level of pop, color gamut reproduction, and brightness. However, getting an ISF calibration done, cinema mode was the best in terms of actual picture quality. I'll post some color graphs when I get to my computer later, I'm typing this from my phone.

Yes there was an issue with the LCD alignment with the 3010 when upside down. The selected pixel was opposite of what was being adjusted. So if you were trying to adjust a given corner, the adjacent corner would actually be the one getting adjusted.
The firmware update corrected that issue, however, the update can only be performed on a computer running windows XP. The drivers would not install on 7, no matter what I tried.
So to get around this issue, I installed virtual machine on my windows 7 in XP mode, installed the drivers, and successfully updated the firmware on my 3010. I tested to ensure the firmware was indeed updated and the pixel issue corrected, and it was.
If you need any help with updating yours, please feel free to contact me and I'll try to the best of my ability to help.

I recently ran into a problem watching 3D content on DirecTV and wondered if anyone here has also experienced this and may have a solution. I have the new Genie system installed in December and decided to rent a 3D PPV a couple of weeks ago and I got an error message on the screen stating that my television was not compatible. I have watched 3D content on 3net channel 107 several times and it worked great, but when I try the PPV movie it gives me the error, then I switch to 3net and get the same error. Once I turn off the satellite receiver and turn it back on I can watch 3net again without the error, but each time I try the PPV it gives me the error again.

I have by-passed my AVR, updated the projector (had to install windows xp...), tried adjusting many settings making sure that the signal was not being altered and or formated in any way from the original. I am at my wits end and the directv rep suggested I look on the website for a list of compatible televisions and see if mine was on there. There are no projectors listed on the site of course. Does anyone have any knowledge on this they could share?

Its wonderful to see all new owners here as its been dull for a while. Thanks for all the details and willingness to share info! I need to get bestbuy to calibrate mine too

Khalid, I do not think that we should follow the rules of Cinema in our homes. To me cinema (color, brightness and contrast) are not acceptable, in other words watching movies in cinema after watching home cinema is tasteless. The projector should be capable of providing the brightness/contrast and colors as good as of LCD/LED TVs in order for full enjoyment. Of course a 134 or 150 screen cannot produce picture as good as of 60" LED TV but we must try to bring the picture as clear/crisp and bright as we can get in LCD/LED TV so in this regard to me "Living Room" is best mode for 2D BD and "Dynamic 3D" for 3D BD. In fact when i am watching on 134" screen which already has "gain" and gives me bright picture, I feel i still need a little kick in brightness/contrast. After all this watching at cinema mode is not acceptable (in my opinion).

Tell me one thing, other then LCD alignment issue, did you feel any thing noticeably improved after upgrading the firmware. If yes, then I would like to do by myself and I shall be thankful if you could help me in this regard.I use desktop for my 3010 and dont want to get it ceiling mount.

+1! I agree. Living room for 2D and Dynamic for 3D on my 3010! 120" 1.3 gain screen here.

Ed

I used Khalid's settings and my Cenema mode looks much brighter and colorful....a definite improvement. One change I made is to use ECO mode for lamp as I dont want to burn out my lamp sooner. Now this makes me very tempted to get Best Buy to calibrate mine directly.

^^
What could be better then to trust your own eyes, after all your eyes are going to see the video not the Best Buy. Secondly, the default settings for each settings made by Epson are the best possible combinations, after all Epson has its own calibration system under which they design and fix the defaults for each setting best suitable for human eye/brain. However, adjustment are always possible depending on size of screen and viewing distance and by trusting your eyes you may always adjust the difference and can achieve best possible picture suitable for your eyes. Also in my "3D Dynamic" or "2D Living room" what I have done that lower the brightness to -5 and increasing the contrast to +10 makes the picture almost as good as of LED/LCD TVs without loosing white shades and to get best possible blacks. Try this.

I recently picked one of these up and have been reading as much info as I can find. Now I hope to consolidate what I found and see what is (still) realavant and what isn't with some questions for the knowledge base here. The list will probably be quite extensive. Hopefully people will have the patience for a "Wall of Text"

Is this still currently being manufactured by Epson, or is the 3020 the lowest model currently being produced ?

I am interested in whether I have an old product that had never been sold and remained in a warehouse and possibly plagued with all the problems associated with the early models or if this is a current (within 6 mo's) product that has been manufactured with the refinements to take care of previous issues.

Is there a way to know the manufacturing date via lot/batch # located on box and or the serial #?

The "Iris" noise issue. I am trying to decypher whether I have the issue or not. Get a basis of what is normal and expected and what is the "issue" that warrants a return.

I can definately hear a noise when I change inputs on the AVR or there is any transition in sources to the projector usually from a no signal to a signal situation. It is definately audible. But during actual viewing I do not hear anything. I played "Dark Knight Returns" thinking the Black/White/Grey opening credits and such would give a good test. I placed my iris on "fast" and placed my head near fan vents. (I am rear shelf mounted) and during play back never hear anything.

So do I happen to have a good PJ, or is there a reconmendation of a movie/procedure to do to give me good basis of a test/result?

Is the unlocking of the "LCD Alignment" option somthing I should do, or is that something only if you suspect a problem. I am not sure if every projector needs it like a form of "calibration" to your enviornment or if it is a leave alone unless absolutely neccessary function?

I am having a difficult time understanding the color modes and values associated with them and if they can be duplicated. Hopefully I can outlay my confusion in a non confussing manner.

The options are Dynamic / Living Room / Natural / Cinema / Auto. My question is are these "hard" presets that can never replicate the other. In essence can I fine tune "Living Room" through adjustments and such to have the exact same picture and qualities as "Natural"?

I ask because some threads (more like actual blogs / reviews) list the "Best Mode" being Natural, while others say Living Room. And the way I understand "Best Mode" to be; Is it is not subjective on their part but an actual meter / graphed out reading of "True Color Representations" So is there actually only one setting that is true in color or can any mode be setup to be the "Best" and possibly be configured exactly the same as another?

Even though the modes are probably self explainatory is someone knowledgable on the actual pro/cons of each mode or can explain what each one does. And as in the previous question able to say "If you choose "Cinema" mode, by default it is always going to be softer and no amount of adjustments will ever bring its sharpness in line with another preset.

This is my first projector and attempt to make a HT. I made this purchase based on the pricepoint of the projector and not the layout/enviornment I was placing it in. Of course now that I have it, and that I have educated myself on some aspects of importance I am scrambling to get the most out of it.

Originally the throw distance was 21' on a rear shelf projecting an image of 148" diag (129 X 72). After reading I seen a few suggestions that "ideally" you want to place your pj at a throw distance where your zoom is dialed at center. How important is this? I have since moved my throw to be approx 16.5' .. At about 14' it seemed to be dead center in focus but that is where my seating is.

Now this and several other projectors tout super high lumens and abilities of 300" images. Is this something that is absurd and at the fringe of abilities and never worth attempting or can this projector actually give a pleasurable experience at such levels?

I ask because I am at 148". But most threads I read have projection images of 120" max, most are inbetween 100"-120" am I asking too much of the 3010 at 16.5 throw and 148" image?

In advance I appreciate any answers and comments.

@ Jeronimo922

Don't worry about the specifics of the pj model, unless you have a problem with the unit, then know Epson has been very good with replacements, but QC has been hit or miss. Some people have noticed/tracked their returns to other buyers here using serial #'s and, well, let's just hope you have no issue requiring a swap. The iris sounds like it's acting normally. The lcd alignment is nice to have if your convergence isn't good, allowing some tweaking to bring it in closer. I think the "natural" mode was closest to correct color, but depending on the viewing environment/screen, you may like a different setting. Any single mode could basically be configured to mimic another.

You can set up to 10? memory settings, per Art at projectorreviews.com "It's nice, for example, to be able to have four calibrated "best" modes, with the only differences, being combinations of having CFI on or off, and brightness on full or eco. I might even have another couple with slightly lower saturation for that content that is just "over the top." These allow you alot of flexibility in quick settings to suit the content being viewed. Wait about 200-300hrs and get it calibrated, in your own viewing environment. Then adjust the settings from there, setting up separate memory presets to use.

About 14-16' on a 1.0 gain 148" screen is decent to keep the brightness levels up, if you run in the quieter (eco) mode. Higher gain screens, and/or running it in (torch) mode would allow you to move the pj further back, and still maintain brightness. There are some variables there to consider, and "ideal" for your setup would be different from another, batcave vs some ambient light. I wouldn't concern myself with "dead center focus", but instead consider the brightness needed for your situation and desires, ie, quieter, and longer bulb life considering the lamp will begin to dim later on.

Thank you very much for the info. My plans are to create a screen through painting the wall. So no doubt I will journey to the DIY Screen / Paint threads. I installed the PJ in the living room with the intentions of leaving the window treatments as is and just allowing ambient light from them and the various house lights do as they please. But I think I am going to try and have some kind of light control after all with blackout shades and such.

The way I am planing to do this (screen) is with no actual border/frame on the projection face. I want to use the entire wall for the painted screen area and then paint the 90 degree walls on left/right corners and sloping ceiling black.. along with bottom 1/3 of the projection wall. The wall is 9'feet, so that would be 6'feet of screen with 3'feet of black painted below, with the outer walls and ceiling painted back probably about 2 (1/2)' feet each. The wall is built as an alcove with a vaulted ceiling

So before I head over to the DIY section I'd like yours or others feedback on this for the moment .

If able I will include some pictures.

.


These are pictures from dead on, to angled to see each sides reflections and slope of ceiling