Bass Down Low – Build 2.Owe - Page 2

Sorry, I should be more specific. The door opens into the closet. No need to turn it around. I can take the riser all the way to the wall.

I'm curious what you might think is the best way to finish it? If I take the riser right up to the door which of the following do you think I should do:
1) Hide the door with fabric panels like I did the window. (Con: difficult access for equip)
2) Build an equipment rack that faces the room (where the door currently is) that can be moved for access to the closet. (Con: difficult to make, I think)
3) Turn the door around (open towards room) and use wide throw hinges to make a short door with fabric panels (Con: short door might look odd if it is not completely seamless)
4) Any other ideas...

Thanks!
Jim

I think I'm going to need bunches of feedback. I suffered through the setup with the following equipment:
REW (of course)
ThinkPad Edge I3 Windows 7
XLR male to XLR female Microphone Cable - 15 feet
Dayton Audio EMM-6 Electret Measurement Microphone
Behringer 302USB Premium 5 Input Mixer With Xenyx

My basic setup for the 302USB was both mic gains set to about 1/3rd. Line/USB set from: USB play to: Main Mix, gain set to almost 1/2. Main mix gain set to a little more than 1/3rd.

My wiring for the mic was using XLR male to to XLR female cable going into mic in. The USB cable ran from the computer to the 302USB and provided the interface and the power (this is why I set the Line/USB above to USB play. The main mix ran to my receiver using the main mix output.

I struggled with the sound card calibration. Below is a picture of my final setup:


I think the way I ended up getting it to work was to take the out of the phones on the 302USB to the Line in on the 302USB, but I tried so many configurations I'm not sure which one ended up working for me.:scratch:

I used the mic calibration from the download by serial number page for Dayton.

So I was all set. The first thing I was interested was trying to determine the background noise floor in the room. This should provide a boundary between what the speakers are doing and what is ambient in the room. (Paraphrased from a Dennis Erskine document). In order to determine the 1/3rd octave measurement I recorded the average FS db using the SPL Meter in REW with equipment on and no sound to be -48db. I then found that a 1/3 octave is a change in sound loudness level of -15.58db(http://www.sengpielaudio.com/calculator-spl.htm), which resulted in a -63db FS pink noise. I produced the below 1/3rd octave full range RTA using -63db FS pink noise.


So my questions are:
Did I do it right? If not, what should I try?
What is the first charts I should be looking at to get a feel for how well the existing room treatments are working. My gut says I'm losing high frequency.
Do I need to attach some files? If so, what do you want?

Thanks,
Jim

I have been busy completing the theater over the last few weeks. I think I am officially done with the front half of the room (except carpet). On the side walls I have put up the fabric and painted the columns to match (color in picture looks off from reality)

I completed the screen wall. I had to demo the previous screen wall because I wanted a straight black wall. I then covered the front wall with rigid insulation and made super chunk bass traps in the 2 front corners. I then made black fabric panels for the top bottom and 2 sides of the screen. I finished the stage and filled it with the remaining sand (leftover from the flood).

I was able to build the riser finally. I used 2 x 8's, so not as tall as most, but I wanted it to be just like any other step. This matches my staircase in back as well as the stage. I started by laying down the 30# roofing felt. I then built the perimeter.


I then built the the inside using 2 x 6's. All cross members were approx. 2" off the ground. The board in the middle is not attached it is just there to show the space under the riser.


I then cut the OSB floor and added the 4 x 14 registers around the back perimeter.



I ran electrical for outlets on the front of the riser if I end up building a knee wall and bar. I also ran 2" pipe in order to run additional cabling to the knee wall/ bar(again, if I do it). I filled with denim insulation. The reason I picked this over the pink fluffy stuff was because I thought it would accomplish what I want and it is exposed to the room via all the registers.


I didn't like the overhang so I purchased additional OSB for a 2nd layer. The first layer was cut flush and the 2nd layer was cut with a 1.5" overhang for led lights and carpert. I used green glue for the 2nd layer. At this point the riser feels very sturdy.


The finished riser. Pipe added for demonstration only.

I forgot to mention... The build started out lacking rigidity. I purchased brackets for every connection. In the end the riser was built like a deck with metal brackets securing all cross members as well as corner brackets holding the perimeter together. Pretty small cost for a much more stable riser.

First impressions...WOW.

The back wall could never pass the rattle test on the Disney setup disc. There were frequencies that just shook the back wall. Now that I have all of those registers open the rattle is gone. The chairs on the riser are just having a blast with all the bass.

The hard push was on to get this ready for the Superbowl in Indy. I was up almost all night last Thursday painting. The carpet was installed Friday and I called it done (for now). We had a blast with it all weekend long. So here are some close to final photos.

Entrance with Bass Trap at the bottom turn


Screen wall


Side wall


Back wall (This is the area I plan to still add a cloth wall, but I went with paint just to call it done by the Super Bowl)


Shot of riser (Extra chair just for additional seating)


Right wall looking towards screen


Addtional screen wall


And Finally the back left of the room:

After much debate I decided on my new backup sump pump strategy. I purchased the following products from amazon.com:
Zoeller 30-0181 Check Valve, 1-1/2 Inch
Reliance Controls THP205 Sump Pump Alarm and Flood Alert
Liberty Pumps SJ10 1-1/2-Inch Discharge SumpJet Water Powered Back-Up Pump

Product Description
The Liberty SumpJet model SJ10 sump pump is an automatic water powered emergency backup sump pump system (do not use in hot water). It uses no electricity and works with the city water pressure. Is the ideal economical standby to any brand of electrical sump pump. Designed for residential use in clear water only, is not designed to remove waste water, sewage, effluent, or water with debris in it.

I was worried that a battery backup would not last if I lost my primary due to power outage or some other reason while I was away from home. I considered purchasing an lp generator in case we lost power but determined it wasn't a good cost effective solution for me. This seems to satisfy my electrical concerns and should work in case too much demand is placed on the primary sump. It should be installed this week.

Hopefully I won't need to deal with a flood again.

Upgraded to a Mitsubishi HC6800 over the weekend. It was a demo from a retailer that was getting out of the Mits projector business.The IN82 it replaced had over 7500 hours on it. It was experiencing a yellowing of skin images due to optical issues. The repair place indicated that the optical parts are no longer available. The projector was perfect for video games, but it was becoming a nuisance watching films. The new projector is LCD and works well in the space. The moire from DLP is gone and the colors seem to pop more. The mounting required a new location as the depth of the projector was longer and would hit the light tray. Setup was great with flexible power zoom and lens shift.

I have definitely been in the completion mode for quite some time, which reflects the lack of posts. I'm very happy with the new look and feel of the room.