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Least expensive pull-out/turnable equipment rack?

post #1 of 6
10/19/11 at 3:23pm
Thread Starter 
I'm doing a budget-conscience theater build in our house that we will likely sell in around 5 years. The equipment rack will be in the hallway with no access to the rear. I won't have many components and can get away with a 48" rack space. What is my least expensive option? I'm not super handy but if needs be I could try to build something. *yikes*

Thanks!
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post #2 of 6
10/19/11 at 3:42pm
I don't know of any off-the-shelf solution other than the Middle Atlantic models. I did a DIY version -- there's a link to that thread in my signature.
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post #3 of 6
10/19/11 at 3:48pm
I have been using one of THESE for a couple of years. It may be a bit short for your needs though but is pro quality, heavy duty, on wheels and can be had for under 3 bills.

Here is my setup:





Quote:
Originally Posted by dwightp View Post

I don't know of any off-the-shelf solution other than the Middle Atlantic models. I did a DIY version -- there's a link to that thread in my signature.

that's impressive!
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post #4 of 6
10/23/11 at 9:49am
I went the DIY route as well; all the COTS options i looked at were just too expensive for me.



I was installing my rack into an existing closet and needed rear access, so I took my MA Slim-5 rack and added about $40 in parts from the Depot:

4 heavy duty fixed casters
48" 3/16" 2x2 angle
misc hardware

Additionally, the bottom of my closet had a lip i had to get over, so I made tracks with Uni strut and shallow U channel.
Since I was pulling it out onto carpet, I made a set of track extenders that I just stow in another closet when not needed.
It works very well even with a fully loaded rack and all together cost me about $70 and a couple hours of time.

I didn't really take the time to make pretty (other than spray painting the angle iron and hardware black) since the only time any of it is visible is when I do any rewiring.
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post #5 of 6
10/23/11 at 8:11pm
Thread Starter 
Thanks for all the replies! I just got back into town an hour ago so sorry for the absence.

I should have been more clear when I initially posted. This will be new construction in the basement. The equipment rack will be in the back corner of the theater and will be visible so it won't be hidden in a closet. Rear entry is going to be impossible because there will be a room directly behind the equipment rack. I could put a door in that room to access the rear but I don't want sound to be able to enter that room (small office) or office room noise getting into the theater any more than having the rooms joined by a common wall. My house is a small ranch with only a 40% basement so I will only be finishing around 350 ft2 for the two rooms. The rest of the "basement" are the utilities and crawl space access, otherwise, I could sacrifice some space to make it work.

I did have one idea so tell me what you guys think. Build shelving out of MDF or ply. The sides will be solid pieces, say 48" high and will go to the rear of the "closet". They will attach to the left and right side walls. Cut recessed grooves into the wood with a radial arm saw or table saw about halfway through the wood (3/8") and make them a tad over 3/4" high so the shelves will have a little wiggle room. Then, make shelves for the equipment to sit on. I can make the closet extra deep, say 3 feet. The shelves will push all the way back into the closet, all 3 feet. If I need to access wiring I can pull a shelf out around 2 feet and have 1 foot of shelving still holding the equipment. I can put some sort of safety stop in place so the shelving will not be able to accidentally come out. OR, I can skip the grooves and just use multiple pieces with a gap for the shelving to sit on. Here's a very rough sketch of what I'm talking about. Sound decent?
LL
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post #6 of 6
10/24/11 at 4:13pm
A couple of quick thoughts: Will two feet of extension allow you enough access to the back of your deepest component? My AVR is about 17 inches deep, I believe. Two feet of extension would not be enough for me to see the closely-spaced connections, much less manipulate them, unless the shelf also rotated.

Wood-on-wood sliding connections like you describe work better on paper than they do in practice. In the real world, if the shelf does not stay exactly square to the sides as you push it in, it will bind. You could probably adapt some drawer slides to provide the sliding function, though.

If you could turn the rack 180-degrees in place, would you need it to pull out? To rotate without pulling out, you would have to build the closet to be wider than the rack. Since this is new construction, that might be a good alternative.
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