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The Official Acer H9500BD Thread - Page 91

post #2701 of 4662
Can one of you guys take a lumens measurement in 3D, preferably with a light meter.

You can get a light meter at Amazon.com for $15 (http://www.amazon.com/Light-Meter-LX.../dp/B000JWUT6O)...

I read in a review that this Acer forces you into a dimmer mode when going into 3D (not dimmer from the glasses, I mean the PJ itself vs. it's brightest mode), is that true guys?
post #2702 of 4662
Quote:
Originally Posted by aaranddeeman View Post

Ditto..

TG keeps switching between 1699 and 1499 in 2 week cycles ( I guess)..
You can use the FW Cash back to bring it down a bit more...

What does the fw stand for ?
post #2703 of 4662
Quote:
Originally Posted by coderguy View Post

Can one of you guys take a lumens measurement in 3D, preferably with a light meter.

You can get a light meter at Amazon.com for $15 (http://www.amazon.com/Light-Meter-LX.../dp/B000JWUT6O)...

I read in a review that this Acer forces you into a dimmer mode when going into 3D (not dimmer from the glasses, I mean the PJ itself vs. it's brightest mode), is that true guys?

I'll look at my current settings and the 3D mode is certainly less bright than what I use. I use Dark Cinema, Presentation, and User mode (which is anything other than presets, but a variation of the first two). 3D, however, is more than bright enough if that's the concern.

What's the point here? If it can help me get a better picture, I'll fork out the $15 (rather than the 15 benjamins for a video processor).

What up?
post #2704 of 4662
Not really a better picture, but you can judge how fast the lamp is aging.
The point is so we can figure out how bright in lumens the 3D mode pumps out. Bright enough doesn't mean much because it varies on everyone's setup, we'll need lumens numbers.

If anyone else wants to do the light meter thing (it's fun), then let me know.
post #2705 of 4662
InCali - some of the projectors have different behavior when they go into 3D mode regarding light output. Some stay the same, others get brighter and a handful get dimmer. My Acer 5360 dropped a few hundred lumens going from 2D to 3D mode. We're trying to figure out what the drop is (if any) on the 9500 going into the 3D mode.
post #2706 of 4662
Well I will have to look at this more closely. I suspect I know the cause but never really looked that hard at it because I have really good light control now and have no complaints about 3D brightness. Without a meter it is going to be hard to tell because there is no real way to turn 3D on and off to compare by eye. IOWs you are not going to go from 3D to 2D at the push of a button and look at that. I do know when I go 3D the fan speeds up so I suspect the bulb is getting hotter/brighter. I could be wrong.

Now I watched over 3 hours of CBS cable TV tonight. I have to say the 9500 had a super sharp picture. I looked very hard at it. I know it can be just that much better from my testing, but most will not even notice the loss because it is so small. It is that good that I had to compare BD back to back images to see it. This is old news here now, but by golly if Acer fixes that blur this is going to be one heck of a bargain with all the features it has. I still have yet to play with the iris settings in the service menu where they can be tweaked. Acer fixes this they have a value leader hands down. Without the rumored fix, they have a good unit that PC users will not like along with some console users.
post #2707 of 4662
Quote:
Originally Posted by coderguy View Post


I read in a review that this Acer forces you into a dimmer mode when going into 3D (not dimmer from the glasses, I mean the PJ itself vs. it's brightest mode), is that true guys?

Sorry, I didn't read this closely. When I get the meter, I'll send you the readings from brightest mode and 3D mode (which isn't really adjustable.....I'm not aware of any way to even access the main menu from 3D mode) as well as the hours on the lamp. It might be a good idea to check it every X hours to see if there are any significant changes in light output.

I can tell you for sure that 3D is dimmer than the brightest mode (which I don't use....it's too bright for my setup).
post #2708 of 4662
Quote:
Originally Posted by coderguy View Post

Can one of you guys take a lumens measurement in 3D, preferably with a light meter.

You can get a light meter at Amazon.com for $15 (http://www.amazon.com/Light-Meter-LX.../dp/B000JWUT6O)...

I read in a review that this Acer forces you into a dimmer mode when going into 3D (not dimmer from the glasses, I mean the PJ itself vs. it's brightest mode), is that true guys?

BTW,, is this really the light meter you suggest using or are you suggesting it because it's cheap and you think more people will buy it? I'm sure it's "good enough" or you wouldn't suggest it, but what if someone was willing to spend a little more money? I'd like to become more proficient when it comes to calibrating my projector (and TV for that matter).

Other suggestions???
post #2709 of 4662
Hey folks!
Now that Acer have confirmed a fix will probably be out sometime by the end of May for the HDMI blurring i.e. 1:1 pixel mapping.

How will I be able to get my hands on either the fix or a unit which has the updated firmware?

Do projecter units have to be submitted back to Acer for a Firmware update?
Or can it be done at home?

Cheers!,
Nick.
post #2710 of 4662
Quote:
Originally Posted by zt-octavian View Post

Hey folks!
Now that Acer have confirmed a fix will probably be out sometime by the end of May for the HDMI blurring i.e. 1:1 pixel mapping.

How will I be able to get my hands on either the fix or a unit which has the updated firmware?

Do projecter units have to be submitted back to Acer for a Firmware update?
Or can it be done at home?

Cheers!,
Nick.

I was told by tier 2 support that it has to be sent in......why they bothered with the USB port, I don't know. Some funny person suggested that with a firmware update you might be able to update the firmware via the USB port.....
post #2711 of 4662
Quote:
Originally Posted by InCali View Post

I'm not paying more for the video processor than I did for my projector....


lol. i wouldn't either.. i got the box for 60 bucks on newegg. its 79 bucks right now.. sometimes there's a coupon.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...01&Tpk=eecolor
post #2712 of 4662
Quote:
Originally Posted by Vasim Pathan View Post

lol. i wouldn't either.. i got the box for 60 bucks on newegg. its 79 bucks right now.. sometimes there's a coupon.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...01&Tpk=eecolor

I thought you had lost your marbles and bought the Kodak. I see there are 2 HDMI inputs and one output....that's fine. Are the HDMI ports 1.4a compliant? Does it work with 3D?

What other kind of info do you have? You say it works with the Acer, huh? Here I am scared of paying too much and scared of paying too little when everyone else is charging way more.....
post #2713 of 4662
yup. 1.4a compliant. 3D is fine.. the small cheaper box does what the expensive kodak box does using lookup tables.

POWERED BY EECOLOR
eeColor Technology is the world's first 3D, multi-dimensional color video technology
post #2714 of 4662
[quote=InCali;22006475] 3D mode (which isn't really adjustable.....I'm not aware of any way to even access the main menu from 3D mode) as well as the hours on the lamp.QUOTE]

I can check later today but I am pretty certain I was able to change from eco and full brightness from the lamp while viewing 3D by doing the power/left/left/menu . Believe I also found when I changed it to full in 3D mode it also put it from eco to full in 2D mode also.
post #2715 of 4662
Quote:
Originally Posted by InCali View Post

BTW,, is this really the light meter you suggest using or are you suggesting it because it's cheap and you think more people will buy it? I'm sure it's "good enough" or you wouldn't suggest it, but what if someone was willing to spend a little more money? I'd like to become more proficient when it comes to calibrating my projector (and TV for that matter).

Other suggestions???

As far as just taking a simple lumens reading comparatively it's fine. If you want a more accurate meter, there are some with the ability to measure some extra decimal points.

With the higher-end ones you can measure contrast instead of just the light coming from the screen. Although I'm not sure this would really serve much purpose to you other than knowing how much contrast you are getting (it's interesting).

There is one for about $60 I saw Ron post about in the JVC lamp thread, which has enough resolution to take basic contrast readings. Beyond that, they start to get expensive $100+ or even $800+, and some are even more than that. Any difference you would be able to measure for the $100+ ones as opposed to the $60 one would be fairly minimal.
post #2716 of 4662
Quote:
Originally Posted by Vasim Pathan View Post

lol. i wouldn't either.. i got the box for 60 bucks on newegg. its 79 bucks right now.. sometimes there's a coupon.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...01&Tpk=eecolor


In a review of the Acer H9500BD , it said the Gray scale could not be adjusted on it.

So with the Color Processing Device from New Egg, can you adjust the gray scale of the Acer H9500BD ?
post #2717 of 4662
[quote=man4mopar;22007756]
Quote:
Originally Posted by InCali View Post

3D mode (which isn't really adjustable.....I'm not aware of any way to even access the main menu from 3D mode) as well as the hours on the lamp.QUOTE]

I can check later today but I am pretty certain I was able to change from eco and full brightness from the lamp while viewing 3D by doing the power/left/left/menu . Believe I also found when I changed it to full in 3D mode it also put it from eco to full in 2D mode also.

See? This is why I like this thread....I learn secrets. I'll try that in 3D and maybe it'll improve the picture, but I really liked the picture just as it was. Of course, like I said, it's hard to see where there can be improvements until you actually see them.

I'm pretty jazzed about getting these little knickknacks. I've always been fascinated by techie toys and tools.
post #2718 of 4662
Coderguy...You need to clean out some PMs.
post #2719 of 4662
Hi everyone ! Speaking with the corporate level manager and technical support of Acer about my status of H9500BD, I also asked about the new firmware. They confirmed that it's in progress and will not hit the web until mid June. Another news is that they installed a new firmware to my unit, because I had some problems under 3D mode. I'll see the version when I get it on Wednesday

Unfortunately, my other projector Acer H7531D failed today and I'm so disappointed ....
It seems the lamp is going down and don't know what to do.
It would turn on once out of 20-30 times. I've tried to reinsert the lamp, hardware reset, factory software reset via the service menu, fan reset, etc, but I'm still have the issue. I noticed in failure log section/under service menu/"Lamp ignition failure" many times. so I'll appreciate if some of you had similar issue and can point me to the right solution.I read about some popping sound when the lamp is failing.Here some short video of the issue itself and the weird sound

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CrUhr...ature=youtu.be

Due to my bad experience with Acer technical support currently with my other projector Acer H9500BD, I don't want to use them anymore. I'm thinking that the lamp is the problem but not sure where is that ignition module located. Is it part of the lamp or not. I'm going to buy a new one , but wanted to make sure it's the right part. The lamp has only 1180 hours of 4000 availbe at Eco mode.

Thanks in advance and excuse mu English
post #2720 of 4662
kfor sounds like you have a open lamp electrode and that a new one would fix the issue. You could ohm it out with a meter to verify. A light element can now and then weld itself back together and work intermittenly which would/could explain it coming on once in a great while.

Edit: If is a UHP lamp (likely) my advice to check with a ohm meter will not work. They use high voltage to arc a gap. To test would need a ballast of appropriate voltage.
post #2721 of 4662
[quote=InCali;22008065]
Quote:
Originally Posted by man4mopar View Post


See? This is why I like this thread....I learn secrets. I'll try that in 3D and maybe it'll improve the picture, but I really liked the picture just as it was. Of course, like I said, it's hard to see where there can be improvements until you actually see them.

I'm pretty jazzed about getting these little knickknacks. I've always been fascinated by techie toys and tools.

I confirmed you can change from eco to torch in the power/left/left/menu while watching a 3D source. Started playing Uncharted 3 in 3D and veirfied, I use eco in 3D with a 100" screen.
post #2722 of 4662
[quote=man4mopar;22010173]
Quote:
Originally Posted by InCali View Post


I confirmed you can change from eco to torch in the power/left/left/menu while watching a 3D source. Started playing Uncharted 3 in 3D and veirfied, I use eco in 3D with a 100" screen.

So is that something the reviews of the H9500BD would not have been taking into account ?
Did 3D have a very noticable boost in brightness when you used torch mode over eco ?
post #2723 of 4662
Quote:
Originally Posted by Vasim Pathan View Post

yup. 1.4a compliant. 3D is fine.. the small cheaper box does what the expensive kodak box does using lookup tables.

POWERED BY EECOLOR
eeColor Technology is the world's first 3D, multi-dimensional color video technology

No lag or anything like that when using this device? I have some flexibility with regard to dealing with that, so it's not a deal breaker one way or the other.
post #2724 of 4662
Quote:
Originally Posted by man4mopar View Post

kfor sounds like you have a open lamp electrode and that a new one would fix the issue. You could ohm it out with a meter to verify. A light element can now and then weld itself back together and work intermittenly which would/could explain it coming on once in a great while.

Thank you very much for the advise ! I'll do this today to confirm it
post #2725 of 4662
[quote=The big picture;22010258]
Quote:
Originally Posted by man4mopar View Post


So is that something the reviews of the H9500BD would not have been taking into account ?
Did 3D have a very noticable boost in brightness when you used torch mode over eco ?

Yes is noticeable, but for my screen size etc it is better in ECO mode, darker blacks. I do not have a lumen meter here so unable to give outputs of Eco-torch from 2D and Eco-Torch of 3D content.
Most likely not reviewed since is in a menu that is only accessed by a button code combo not found in the manual. Have to hit Power, left, left then menu to access it while watching content you wish to change.
post #2726 of 4662
[quote=man4mopar;22012146]
Quote:
Originally Posted by The big picture View Post


Yes is noticeable, but for my screen size etc it is better in ECO mode, darker blacks. I do not have a lumen meter here so unable to give outputs of Eco-torch from 2D and Eco-Torch of 3D content.

Thanks man4mopar,
That is good to know.
I have been reading threads and reviews of the Optoma,Acer & Benq, and it sounds like the acer has a great picture and great blacks but less light than the others for 3D.
Nice to know the light output in 3D can be boosted-Up some. Since I would like to use a 120" screen, I think I would need the exra light.
post #2727 of 4662
Quote:
Originally Posted by man4mopar View Post

kfor sounds like you have a open lamp electrode and that a new one would fix the issue. You could ohm it out with a meter to verify. A light element can now and then weld itself back together and work intermittenly which would/could explain it coming on once in a great while.

Projector lamps have no element to ohm out, they are arc lamps.
post #2728 of 4662
[quote=The big picture;22013073]
Quote:
Originally Posted by man4mopar View Post


Thanks man4mopar,
That is good to know.
I have been reading threads and reviews of the Optoma,Acer & Benq, and it sounds like the acer has a great picture and great blacks but less light than the others for 3D.
Nice to know the light output in 3D can be boosted-Up some. Since I would like to use a 120" screen, I think I would need the exra light.

I have a 120" screen with about a 14' throw and find the brightness fine with the default 3D settings (almost total light control). As soon as I get a chance, I'll check out the different modes and let you know. Just because I think it's fine, that doesn't mean it can't be better with a 120" screen. I tend to think our friend from penguinia with the 100" screen is on the right track (better blacks). I'll get my light meter in a few days and will have more.
post #2729 of 4662
Quote:
Originally Posted by Walternate View Post

Projector lamps have no element to ohm out, they are arc lamps.

That would probably make them that much more susceptible to failure due to high(er than usual) resistance connections???
post #2730 of 4662
[quote=InCali;22013671]
Quote:
Originally Posted by The big picture View Post


I have a 120" screen with about a 14' throw and find the brightness fine with the default 3D settings (almost total light control). As soon as I get a chance, I'll check out the different modes and let you know. Just because I think it's fine, that doesn't mean it can't be better with a 120" screen. I tend to think our friend from penguinia with the 100" screen is on the right track (better blacks). I'll get my light meter in a few days and will have more.

OK. I wasn't able to resist testing something this interesting almost immediately. There is a discernible difference between Eco/Full and Brilliant Off/On, but, honestly, if I wasn't looking at them one after the other, I wouldn't be able to tell the difference. On my screen, I like Brilliant/On and Full (as opposed to Eco on whatever that setting is). "Torch" mode??? Hardly....

I'm a crappy critic I suppose. It all looks good, but on a 120" screen in 3D mode, the brightness adds a little bit. Maybe I didn't notice the "better blacks" because I was watching "Underworld Awakening" and thought the costumes to be just fine.
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