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The Official Acer H9500BD Thread - Page 123

post #3661 of 4662
Quote:
Originally Posted by InCali View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by PLB View Post

Thanks for the numbers. They show:
Scaler Ver.B03 (May 5, 2012)
MCU Ver. A03
RV1 Ver. A02
DDP3021 Ver.A06
MEMC Ver. B01
I presume that it's the recent scaler version that fixed the HDMI blurring problem. So I will specify that I want a machine with scaler version B03 eprom. Right?

Wish I could tell you I'm 100% sure. I'd send them a printout of the photo and say "this is what I want to see when my PJ comes back" because I've heard two different stories as far as which version of what represents the firmware update.

Where do you hear two different stories on the firmware update?
post #3662 of 4662
Quote:
Originally Posted by joepaiii View Post

Where do you hear two different stories on the firmware update?

I could have misunderstood, but I thought Mike's post 3422 indicated that the DDP3021 rev was the key change. My take is that all of the service menus should pretty much look the same....no??
post #3663 of 4662
Quote:
Originally Posted by InCali View Post

I could have misunderstood, but I thought Mike's post 3422 indicated that the DDP3021 rev was the key change. My take is that all of the service menus should pretty much look the same....no??

I think you might have misunderstood, I don't think there are two "new" firmware revisions floating around. I agree that all the service menus with the new firmware should be consistent but time will tell, there may be new revs of certain line items depending on projector manufacturing date. We should have a sticky somewhere with everyone posting purchase date/manufacture date/service menu version info. Then it would be easy to see what all the versions are.

On a side note - how does everyone search this site? I haven't seen an easy way to search only this thread but I am sure I have missed it somewhere.
post #3664 of 4662
Quote:
Originally Posted by joepaiii View Post

I think you might have misunderstood, I don't think there are two "new" firmware revisions floating around. I agree that all the service menus with the new firmware should be consistent but time will tell, there may be new revs of certain line items depending on projector manufacturing date. We should have a sticky somewhere with everyone posting purchase date/manufacture date/service menu version info. Then it would be easy to see what all the versions are.
On a side note - how does everyone search this site? I haven't seen an easy way to search only this thread but I am sure I have missed it somewhere.

After everything I went through, I was quite clear that there was only 1 firmware update. I just wasn't sure which rev in the service menu contained the "nuts and botts" of the pixel mapping/CMS/etc. changes.
post #3665 of 4662
Quote:
Originally Posted by joepaiii View Post

I think you might have misunderstood, I don't think there are two "new" firmware revisions floating around. I agree that all the service menus with the new firmware should be consistent but time will tell, there may be new revs of certain line items depending on projector manufacturing date. We should have a sticky somewhere with everyone posting purchase date/manufacture date/service menu version info. Then it would be easy to see what all the versions are.
On a side note - how does everyone search this site? I haven't seen an easy way to search only this thread but I am sure I have missed it somewhere.

Like the sticky idea......
post #3666 of 4662
Quote:
Originally Posted by joepaiii View Post

I think you might have misunderstood, I don't think there are two "new" firmware revisions floating around. I agree that all the service menus with the new firmware should be consistent but time will tell, there may be new revs of certain line items depending on projector manufacturing date. We should have a sticky somewhere with everyone posting purchase date/manufacture date/service menu version info. Then it would be easy to see what all the versions are.
On a side note - how does everyone search this site? I haven't seen an easy way to search only this thread but I am sure I have missed it somewhere.

As far as searching the thread, there's a "search this thread" or something like that at the top of the thread page. If you click on it and type in some words, it will give you the matches. Lots of times, I just remember the time frame, but it can come in handy if you remember some key words. So I could type in "HiFi you guys are a bunch of dumb losers" (for purposes of example only) and it would list all the times HiFi used those words. Seems to work okay.
Edited by InCali - 8/13/12 at 9:39am
post #3667 of 4662
Has anyone seen any sightings of the Acer E2W glasses in the US. I only saw one pair on ebay that someone wants $106 for. I see some in the UK. What seems to be the general consensus of other manufacturers that have near identical 3D image quality? Seems like I remember some say the Optoma ZD101s are identical but just bigger and they dont fold. InCali now that you have noticed a little more yellow tint for the OEM glasses you bought would you buy them again or do you find yourself grabbing the Acers for 3D viewing due to the tint difference? Also are there any sync problems with the other manufacturers compared to the Acers?
post #3668 of 4662
Quote:
Originally Posted by rokanije View Post

Has anyone seen any sightings of the Acer E2W glasses in the US. I only saw one pair on ebay that someone wants $106 for. I see some in the UK. What seems to be the general consensus of other manufacturers that have near identical 3D image quality? Seems like I remember some say the Optoma ZD101s are identical but just bigger and they dont fold. InCali now that you have noticed a little more yellow tint for the OEM glasses you bought would you buy them again or do you find yourself grabbing the Acers for 3D viewing due to the tint difference? Also are there any sync problems with the other manufacturers compared to the Acers?

I guess it would sort of depend. Like I said, the other glasses had a yellow tint (which I personally didn't like quite as much). They also were more comfortable and stayed on your head better. They cost substantially less also, are rechargeable, and come with a case/cleaning cloth. I lean towards the Acers for my own personal use, but the others might be okay for guests. Because of all the crap I went through, I was able to get a couple extra pairs of the Acer for free and bought one pair beforehand. That means I have 4 and 1 of the other. I don't see myself needing to buy any more, but don't think I'd pay another $70 for the Acers. Guests 5 and 6 would get the others. No Sync problems at all.
post #3669 of 4662
Got my "Repair Complete" message. Should have my projector back in a couple days. I really looking forward to seeing the sharpness increase and putting my tired hd70 away!
post #3670 of 4662
Quote:
Originally Posted by joepaiii View Post

Got my "Repair Complete" message. Should have my projector back in a couple days. I really looking forward to seeing the sharpness increase and putting my tired hd70 away!

I'm sure we'll hear what you think smile.gif Can you send a picture of the service menu or at least let us know if there are any changes from the photo I sent in?
post #3671 of 4662
Quote:
Originally Posted by joepaiii View Post

Got my "Repair Complete" message. Should have my projector back in a couple days. I really looking forward to seeing the sharpness increase and putting my tired hd70 away!
You are going to like what you see and you are probably what was holding mine up. wink.gif I just checked on mine via level 1 support today. Always a hoot at level one with chat names I cannot even pronounce. They have begun the repair and say I should have it within the next 3 days. They say the repair is under warranty. To be honest with you I am not sure if it should be warranted or if it was damaged in the electrical storm despite being unplugged. Acer has been great about this and is paying for everything but I think I need to call corporate again and make sure it was not damaged by the storm. I just do not feel right if that is the case and I have an insurance claim going for other equipment anyways. I just cannot believe it got toasted when it was unplugged but the HDMI cable was connected. Just wanted to post this up because for one, Acer has really come through this time and I am not even sure this is their fault. If I suspect for one moment it is not on them, they will be getting reimbursed for their trouble from my insurance claim because that is how I roll. I just want to be treated right and Acer has certainly come through with that here of late. I could not be happier with a company except if they sent a replacement in advance. Read that as cross shipping if you will.

At any rate it appears that a contact at Acer Corporate has paid off but I do not want to abuse it or take advantage of it. I just wanted to be treated right and my contact at Acer has come through in spades. I will be sure that it was not misused. Now as for my AVR replacement, that is not going to be as easy. The unit is not totally toasted but might as well be. The sub HDMI channel out is gone. For the astute readers here, that is the same connection to my HDMI in to my projector. Somehow my HDMI main and DLP TV which was on at the time of the power outage survived. I can't figure this all out but the insurance company will pay for whatever I tell them got toasted. The guy the insurance company sent out today was surprised I did not lose more items than I did when he saw the equipment I had. I guess some of the surge equipment I have is working after all.
post #3672 of 4662
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mikes2cents View Post

You are going to like what you see and you are probably what was holding mine up. wink.gif I just checked on mine via level 1 support today. Always a hoot at level one with chat names I cannot even pronounce. They have begun the repair and say I should have it within the next 3 days. They say the repair is under warranty. To be honest with you I am not sure if it should be warranted or if it was damaged in the electrical storm despite being unplugged. Acer has been great about this and is paying for everything but I think I need to call corporate again and make sure it was not damaged by the storm. I just do not feel right if that is the case and I have an insurance claim going for other equipment anyways. I just cannot believe it got toasted when it was unplugged but the HDMI cable was connected. Just wanted to post this up because for one, Acer has really come through this time and I am not even sure this is their fault. If I suspect for one moment it is not on them, they will be getting reimbursed for their trouble from my insurance claim because that is how I roll. I just want to be treated right and Acer has certainly come through with that here of late. I could not be happier with a company except if they sent a replacement in advance. Read that as cross shipping if you will.
At any rate it appears that a contact at Acer Corporate has paid off but I do not want to abuse it or take advantage of it. I just wanted to be treated right and my contact at Acer has come through in spades. I will be sure that it was not misused. Now as for my AVR replacement, that is not going to be as easy. The unit is not totally toasted but might as well be. The sub HDMI channel out is gone. For the astute readers here, that is the same connection to my HDMI in to my projector. Somehow my HDMI main and DLP TV which was on at the time of the power outage survived. I can't figure this all out but the insurance company will pay for whatever I tell them got toasted. The guy the insurance company sent out today was surprised I did not lose more items than I did when he saw the equipment I had. I guess some of the surge equipment I have is working after all.

Hi Mike,

If the ports on both devices that were connected together got fried at the same time and during a lightning hit, you can be pretty darn sure these incidents are all related. Lightning + two connected devices + fried at the same time = related incidents. My arithmetic isn't that great, but you get the point. Those low voltage components are very susceptible to relatively small voltage spikes (which was pointed out earlier).

Nice to meet an honest person. Good luck to you.
post #3673 of 4662
Quote:
Originally Posted by InCali View Post

Hi Mike,
If the ports on both devices that were connected together got fried at the same time and during a lightning hit, you can be pretty darn sure these incidents are all related. Lightning + two connected devices + fried at the same time = related incidents. My arithmetic isn't that great, but you get the point. Those low voltage components are very susceptible to relatively small voltage spikes (which was pointed out earlier).
Nice to meet an honest person. Good luck to you.
Thanks InCali. I have nothing to gain posting what I did. I just wanted folks to see how Acer responded to my support request and they did not hiccup. Good for them and us owners. I can't wait to get the projector back. It is a very good projector and I miss it.
post #3674 of 4662
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mikes2cents View Post

Thanks InCali. I have nothing to gain posting what I did. I just wanted folks to see how Acer responded to my support request and they did not hiccup. Good for them and us owners. I can't wait to get the projector back. It is a very good projector and I miss it.

I've gotten pretty much the same impression you did. First off, Acer didn't need to pay shipping both ways for a FIRMWARE update. I've returned things that have had problems and had to pay shipping one way. This wasn't technically even a "problem". I don't know everything that the firmware fixed, but we know it added CMS, fixed pixel mapping, and addressed the SBS tearing issue (though I haven't personally tested the latter). Acer looks to me like they are in full on "customer comes first" mode and I have gotten several PMs from people saying that they are buying the Acer and want to know how to ensure that they get the new firmware (and we've seen it on the thread also). I'm guessing for every person who takes the time to write, there a a LOT of people who just decide to buy.

While they took a lot of heat for firmware delays, these things can't be released overnight and often take some tweaking. As I said before, you have to get your engineering changes right or you're worse off than you were before. Given what I have now (Watched "Alice in Wonderland" the other day), the delays seem rather insignificant given the number of fixes they put into the firmware. Given the price, I don't see anything out there with the same features and the same picture. Would more than one user setting be nice? Yes? Would I like it if the menu would stay on the screen a little longer? Yes. Would it be nice to have more robust adjustments to 3D? Yes (though, to my eyes, the 3D looks really, really good as is...). Would I want to pay a $1,000 more for a 3D projector with a ghosting problem or one with deeper blacks? Uh, sorry.....no. The blacks on the Acer are really good and I can't wait to see what everything looks like after I get it calibrated (still working on that by the way....).

So let's get real. No projector is perfect; Not even those that cost in excess of $5K or so. Acer owners paid in the $1500-1700 range (that's kind of staggering from where I sit) and have a really, really nice 3D projector for movies AND gaming (though the latter doesn't interest me). IMO, Acer has a stone cold winner on its hands. The new firmware took a really nice, affordable projector to the next level. I haven't tested every projector out there, but from what I can tell from reading other reviews, it pretty much stands alone in its price range (Optoma may be close??? but doesn't have at least one particular feature.....Vertical/Horizontal shift function) and toe to toe with a lot of others costing substantially more. For me, this PJ was a steal.

To all of the above, I add "really, really good customer service" (once you get past level 1 support....a necessary evil in the tech business I suppose).
Edited by InCali - 8/15/12 at 8:08am
post #3675 of 4662
Oh...one other thing I've been wanting to ask. HiFi made a comment along the lines of "At least you didn't buy that projector that has the really crappy lens because that's something you can't fix with firmware." (at least that was the gist of his comment). I sent him a PM asking which PJ he was talking about, but never heard back. Does anyone out there know which PJ he's referring to?
post #3676 of 4662
Quote:
Originally Posted by InCali View Post

Oh...one other thing I've been wanting to ask. HiFi made a comment along the lines of "At least you didn't buy that projector that has the really crappy lens because that's something you can't fix with firmware." (at least that was the gist of his comment). I sent him a PM asking which PJ he was talking about, but never heard back. Does anyone out there know which PJ he's referring to?

I find it is hard to know what he is talking about on most subjects. I don't know what pj has a very crappy lens either maybe the 8350? I saw focus uniformity issues with it.
post #3677 of 4662
Quote:
Originally Posted by HiFiFun View Post

Here is the accurate, recommended Acer 9500 projector calculator:
http://www.acer.us/ac/en/US/content/...ion-calculator
Quote:
Originally Posted by coderguy View Post


Doesn't bother me if someone uses another calculator, although I couldn't get that one to give me any useful info. The Mits and Epson calcs work a bit better.

I was looking for a quote about a projector that has a sucky lens and found this.....IMHO, the Acer calculator sucks and found Coder's calculator much more informative (and it was plenty accurate for my purposes).
post #3678 of 4662
Quote:
Originally Posted by InCali View Post

I was looking for a quote about a projector that has a sucky lens and found this.....IMHO, the Acer calculator sucks and found Coder's calculator much more informative (and it was plenty accurate for my purposes).

Do you mean this ?
Quote:
Originally Posted by HiFiFun View Post

So far adding 3D has reduced the contrast ratio for all projector technologies.
Those in-the-know are holding-their-breaths to see how much the famous JVC NATIVE contrast will be degraded as they improve the 3D ghosting.
LCoS motion resolution is still only 700-800 lines, which maybe why Sony switched to a cheap lens in the 30 and 95 "elevated standard".
post #3679 of 4662
Quote:
Originally Posted by HiFiFun View Post

Congratulations to all including Acer who finally came through.
Now you guys have the knowledge and experience to evaluate your next projector within 10 minutes. cool.gif
Do you think the next generation will listen?wink.gif
Now you can clearly see the increased resolution and the undistorted pixels on the screen with 1:1 mapping.
The major benefit of DLP technology has been rather painfully restored. Speaking in ye old English once again what does Crock Dundee say?
The other projector that you wisely did not purchase has such a poor lens that it can't even resolve the pixels on the screen.
Go see for yourself. eek.gif Some, rather embarrassingly, still recommend it and then want to jump to 4K when there only resolving 1280.
Lets get the 1080 errors and aberrations down first before proceeding.
Please?

I found that on another thread, but the above it what I was looking for. I think HiFi is talking about the Sony....yes.
post #3680 of 4662
Here is my updated firmware screen shot....



and my original



Definitely see the increase in clarity in test images. Video seems crisper to me as well but very hard to say, not a night and day difference but I am glad I sent it in.
post #3681 of 4662
Quote:
Originally Posted by joepaiii View Post

Definitely see the increase in clarity in test images. Video seems crisper to me as well but very hard to say, not a night and day difference but I am glad I sent it in.
That's what I am talking about. I awoke this morning to an email telling me my "computer" repair is complete and shipping information will follow. I expect to have it on Friday. Those folks at Acer didn't blink an eye about fixing it. Can't wait to get it back. If even so much as one thing does not work I am going to add it to my claim and start over. I don't think Acer needs to pay for this.

Edit: It was a night and day difference for me when viewing the Windows desktop. Huge difference and looked like I expected it to. Night and day difference in test patterns too. Now as for video I thought it looked better but put about 4 hours on it through 2 evenings after work and a lot of that was taking pictures of the improvements I saw. Then the unit went down.eek.gif I look forward to getting it back so I can try to just enjoy it a bit. I will also check the SBS thing when I get a chance. I too want to play with the CMS to see what it can do. That is all for now.
Edited by Mikes2cents - 8/15/12 at 5:43pm
post #3682 of 4662
Quote:
Originally Posted by joepaiii View Post

Here is my updated firmware screen shot....

and my original

Definitely see the increase in clarity in test images. Video seems crisper to me as well but very hard to say, not a night and day difference but I am glad I sent it in.

Cool...zackly same as mine. I noticed an improvement in video, but, thinking back, it was a CATV picture and not blu ray. Don't know if that had anything to do with it. I remember thinking "I don't need to see a pock mark on some FBI dude's face."

Still working on the calibration angle. I'm aiming to learn something from an expert.
post #3683 of 4662
That's awesome they fixed the pixel mapping, you guys are truly some go-getters, I'm impressed. If I were a hiring manager, I'd give you a job just because you keep pushing until somene gets the job done smile.gif

I wrote a post about calibration that might help explain things a little bit in a more LAYMAN sense
(I think it was one of my better "calibration for newbies" posts).
http://www.avsforum.com/t/1298652/viewsonic-pro8200-it-exists/660#post_22294228

After that mini-post to get you going, I'd read this thread which gets more intense and is by a long-term calibrator:
(might want to wait until you have a meter in hand for this one, might bore you to death)
http://www.curtpalme.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=10457

One thing hard for a new person calibrating is there are so many different names for the same term. Color Lightness = Color Brightness = Color Luminance, etc... Sometimes people use them incorrectly or wrong in an interchanged sense, but in calibration they are basically the same.

The first thing about calibration is to understand the difference between the color gamut and gray-scale and gamma. Those are key points, once you are past that, I'd say start hitting the specifics with a meter. I'm a pretty good calibrator but I stop short in calling myself a PRO because I consider people that do it every day for a living more of an expert, whereas I've done around 50 total in my life. You are going to need a colorimeter or a spectrophotometer to get started. If you are a patient person and want the most accurate results, I'd suggest going to Ebay and grabbing a used Eye-Pro 1 UV-cut for about $300 (this is a spectro and not to be confused with the EyeOne colorimeter). This is the most accurate one you can get anywhere under $1000, but it's also very slow, so you either need to pair it with another meter or be very patient. That said, if you just want something to get ballpark, there are some cheaper under $200 ones. A good middleground might be the D3 with Chromapure (this is a colorimeter). There were some new meters that came out recently. I use a NIST certified Spectracal C6 (also a colorimeter, Spectracal is only the name), but I'm not that happy with it for various reasons (it seems partly inaccurate to me sometimes, but no way to verify and since I already spent $500+ don't want to drop another $300 just to verify).

That said, if the Acer lacks gray-scale controls (and lacks a CMS too), then there isn't much reason to buy a meter to calibrate, but maybe if it has gamma controls buy you a cheap $60 meter just to calibrate the whitepoint gamma.

You need to grab the AVS Rec 709 disk, and/or buy the Spears and Munsil Bluray and the DVE (Digital Video Essentials). It is best to have all three of these disks as it gives you some varying tests to run and each slightly increases the learning of the art of calibration.

The next step is to train your eye on reference level content, and try to memorize how different calibrations affect the color and look of a movie. Some people go their entire projector lives without ever truly watching a reference level Bluray. Throw in a movie like Tree of Life and note how some scenes appear more life-like and color accurate than any normal movie (it's a boring movie, but it's some of the best camera work in the entire history of film). Much of the lighting was filmed exactly or VERY close to D65 neutral lighting, this means no color tint and is very similar to how someone would look in person outside under the sun. The footage of the baby's skin tones in this movie past 40 minutes are some of the most accurate skin tones ever put on a bluray disk. Like I said, the movie itself is blah and nothingness, but the camera-work is incredible. There are others too, like Art of Flight. For a more recent example, even Mr. Popper's Penguins seemed to have some good skin tones during much of the movie, but maybe not quite reference level. There is a list in this forum of reference level blurays, Tree of Life just happens to be the one I picked. Soemtimes people will say Batman or Harry Potter or something, but those have way too much color and filtering and are almost useless to examine after a calibration other than to check contrast and shadow detail.

Here I am sitting jealous with my Pro8200 typing this message out and knowing it doesn't do perfect 1:1 mapping. Although I will say after zooming in and focusing tight it's still pretty good at HTPC even with the issue, so I'm assuming the Pro8200's issue wasn't as severe as the Acer, but I would also assume that the Acer beats it in sharpness now. As jealous as I am, I can always just fire up my JVC RS-45 at an operating cost of about $5 hour (heh - slight exaggeration) if I want near DLP like sharpness (believe it or not, but I was lucky on convergence). I haven't fired the JVC up in almost 3 weeks, tonight will be the first time in a while.

As far as my PJ calculator goes, anyone that uses it I'd just note to pay attention to the numbers more than the graphics because offset is graphically mis-shown at times. I actually fixed the bug but it came back because I must have mixed some code up between an old and new version. I really haven't had time to work on it much in the past 3-6 months unfortunately, things at work have been too hectic. Projector software is very entertaining to write, but it pays negative wages for now, so gotta stick wtih my real job.
Edited by coderguy - 8/15/12 at 8:46pm
post #3684 of 4662
coderguy, I appreciate your comments here. We have done nothing here except prod the manufacturer who did respond, although slower than I would have liked. The phrase "better late than never" certainly applies here but Acer has really come through and to be honest has surpassed my expectations. I almost bought the 8200 but that thing had issues and at the time I believe I convinced the OP of the thread to change his title from it is good to it exists. So I bought a Epson 8350 instead. Good unit but the 9500 clobbers it in every category, in my eyes, even before the firmware update. Do not get me wrong, I still have the 8350 but nobody here is requesting to watch a movie on it after seeing the 9500. All I get is when will your projector be back?

Anyways, thanks for the calibration tips.
post #3685 of 4662
Quote:
Originally Posted by coderguy View Post

That's awesome they fixed the pixel mapping, you guys are truly some go-getters, I'm impressed. If I were a hiring manager, I'd give you a job just because you keep pushing until somene gets the job done smile.gif
I wrote a post about calibration that might help explain things a little bit in a more LAYMAN sense
(I think it was one of my better "calibration for newbies" posts).
http://www.avsforum.com/t/1298652/viewsonic-pro8200-it-exists/660#post_22294228
After that mini-post to get you going, I'd read this thread which gets more intense and is by a long-term calibrator:
(might want to wait until you have a meter in hand for this one, might bore you to death)
http://www.curtpalme.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=10457
One thing hard for a new person calibrating is there are so many different names for the same term. Color Lightness = Color Brightness = Color Luminance, etc... Sometimes people use them incorrectly or wrong in an interchanged sense, but in calibration they are basically the same.
The first thing about calibration is to understand the difference between the color gamut and gray-scale and gamma. Those are key points, once you are past that, I'd say start hitting the specifics with a meter. I'm a pretty good calibrator but I stop short in calling myself a PRO because I consider people that do it every day for a living more of an expert, whereas I've done around 50 total in my life. You are going to need a colorimeter or a spectrophotometer to get started. If you are a patient person and want the most accurate results, I'd suggest going to Ebay and grabbing a used Eye-Pro 1 UV-cut for about $300 (this is a spectro and not to be confused with the EyeOne colorimeter). This is the most accurate one you can get anywhere under $1000, but it's also very slow, so you either need to pair it with another meter or be very patient. That said, if you just want something to get ballpark, there are some cheaper under $200 ones. A good middleground might be the D3 with Chromapure (this is a colorimeter). There were some new meters that came out recently. I use a NIST certified Spectracal C6 (also a colorimeter, Spectracal is only the name), but I'm not that happy with it for various reasons (it seems partly inaccurate to me sometimes, but no way to verify and since I already spent $500+ don't want to drop another $300 just to verify).
That said, if the Acer lacks gray-scale controls (and lacks a CMS too), then there isn't much reason to buy a meter to calibrate, but maybe if it has gamma controls buy you a cheap $60 meter just to calibrate the whitepoint gamma.
You need to grab the AVS Rec 709 disk, and/or buy the Spears and Munsil Bluray and the DVE (Digital Video Essentials). It is best to have all three of these disks as it gives you some varying tests to run and each slightly increases the learning of the art of calibration.
The next step is to train your eye on reference level content, and try to memorize how different calibrations affect the color and look of a movie. Some people go their entire projector lives without ever truly watching a reference level Bluray. Throw in a movie like Tree of Life and note how some scenes appear more life-like and color accurate than any normal movie (it's a boring movie, but it's some of the best camera work in the entire history of film). Much of the lighting was filmed exactly or VERY close to D65 neutral lighting, this means no color tint and is very similar to how someone would look in person outside under the sun. The footage of the baby's skin tones in this movie past 40 minutes are some of the most accurate skin tones ever put on a bluray disk. Like I said, the movie itself is blah and nothingness, but the camera-work is incredible. There are others too, like Art of Flight. For a more recent example, even Mr. Popper's Penguins seemed to have some good skin tones during much of the movie, but maybe not quite reference level. There is a list in this forum of reference level blurays, Tree of Life just happens to be the one I picked. Soemtimes people will say Batman or Harry Potter or something, but those have way too much color and filtering and are almost useless to examine after a calibration other than to check contrast and shadow detail.
Here I am sitting jealous with my Pro8200 typing this message out and knowing it doesn't do perfect 1:1 mapping. Although I will say after zooming in and focusing tight it's still pretty good at HTPC even with the issue, so I'm assuming the Pro8200's issue wasn't as severe as the Acer, but I would also assume that the Acer beats it in sharpness now. As jealous as I am, I can always just fire up my JVC RS-45 at an operating cost of about $5 hour (heh - slight exaggeration) if I want near DLP like sharpness (believe it or not, but I was lucky on convergence). I haven't fired the JVC up in almost 3 weeks, tonight will be the first time in a while.
As far as my PJ calculator goes, anyone that uses it I'd just note to pay attention to the numbers more than the graphics because offset is graphically mis-shown at times. I actually fixed the bug but it came back because I must have mixed some code up between an old and new version. I really haven't had time to work on it much in the past 3-6 months unfortunately, things at work have been too hectic. Projector software is very entertaining to write, but it pays negative wages for now, so gotta stick wtih my real job.

I read your post regarding hue, gain, saturation, and gray scale. It pretty much makes sense to me so thanks for that. It sounds like there are a lot of interactions between various adjustments so you'd need to go back and tweak something after tweaking something else. I'll read the other stuff because I don't know snot about gamma,, temperature, etc., but I'll get there. My son is just starting his first calculus course and it reminds me that, in the real world, you just approach the right answer and never get there. I just spent the last hour explaining how you can measure the area under a curve by adding an infinite number of infinitely small rectangles together and that he isn't going to care about limits in about a week. The dog is smarter than both of us and just cares that the area under his food is adequate for his needs.

Cheers.
post #3686 of 4662
First you'd generally calibrate the brightness and contrast controls based on PLUGE patterns, you can get those patterns from the AVS Rec709 disk, S&M, or DVE. I would not suggest using patterns from an HTPC pattern generator other than to calibrate the HTPC itself (and even this can sometimes backfire, long story I won't go into)... You don't need a meter to calibrate those, just a pattern.

The next order doesn't really matter that much, since you can just go back and forth. However, often a single pass of gray scale is calibrated first, then the color gamut (RGBCYM), then gray-scale again and gamma, then check the color gamut one final time and then gray-scale again (and you can go endlessly). The color gamut and gray-scale will often interact, as a more accurate gray scale often makes the color gamut more accurate on some video devices, so the reason to calibrate the gray scale first is to see if it tightens the gamut so you don't have to overly calibrate the gamut. Grayscale and the gamut aren't immediately related or interactive from a calibration sense other than the white point in the middle of the Rec709 chart and the fact video devices just tend to calibrate that way.

There are often nasty side effects to over-calibrating an image (like posterization / pixelization of colors) or a major loss in brightness (some loss is expected), so calibration is a game of concessions as much as it is a game of accuracy sometimes.

Hue moves a color sideways along the triangle of the 709 chart, Saturation moves it more vertically out of the triangle or back into the triangle, and Luminance isn't really shown on that diagram but in calibration software we see it from graphs and what not. The gray-scale is usually just done with a 5 to 10-point measurement at different levels of brightness (0 IRE being black, 50 IRE being halfway and kind of a grayish white, 100 IRE being white). Gamma is basically at what video level brightness intensity (gamma luminance) should be given to show a particular level, which affects the perception of contrast in the image.

Higher gammas like 2.2 look darker, brighter gammas at like 1.8 look brighter, but the thing about gamma is the entire curve from 5 IRE to 95 IRE matters. There is no gamma at 0 IRE because 0 IRE is complete black, and 100 IRE is complete white, so gamma intensity doesn't apply to those levels. There are also individual gamma settings for the primary colors RGB, but that is generally used to further tweak gray-scale and luminance.

You can tweak gamma by eye a little, but only the white point gamma and it takes a trained eye to do it really.
Edited by coderguy - 8/16/12 at 1:00am
post #3687 of 4662
One way to think of gamma would be like if you can take a scene that has an average brightness (like guys talking in a house) and make that brighter, while not changing the brightness of dark scenes or completely bright scenes (like people on the beach). Hence I can adjust gamma so that I appear to make different gradiations of given scene altered without affecting other levels.

Gamma is kind of like an individual contrast/brightness level adjustment at each different brightness point (white level), although that is somewhat of a crude explanation since it also involves the entire spectrum of colors. Actually all colors come from WHITE as strange as that sounds, white is literally the entire spectrum of colors on top of each other in the wavelength, so to get color it has to come away from white so to speak. That is why saturation (presumably) is a mix of white and the color itself. A more saturated color is farther away from white.

Added:
Contrast and brightness actually change pure black and pure white, whereas gamma changes everything between (sort of).
When you adjust the master GAMMA controls on a projector, like Gamma 0-1-2 or whatever, that is just changing the entire gamma curve (the whitepoint, remember white is all colors), so it is basically making the entire gamma curve brighter or darker (you are making all scenes in a movie brighter or darker by doing this), but when you truly calibrate gamma you are mostly just fixing specific points of the curve (so maybe shadow detail is too crushed, you will fix shadow detail by making dark scenes appear brighter at the expense of a perceived raised black level, although it's confusing because gamma doesn't technically raise the absolute black floor, but it can ruin blacks because you can raise all levels just above the black floor, so you mess up your dark grays and make them look too bright or too dark, can go both ways).

Overall, gamma isn't hugely different than adjusting brightness and contrast at the same time in tandem except with gamma it is more unique and based on a given point instead of a global adjustment. Also contrast and brightness affect all video levels (0 thru 100 all at the same time), whereas gamma affects certain ranges and can even be so specific as to alter the brightness of specific colors that fall within those ranges and those settings can be individualized (5 thru 95 at intervals, 5 - 95 for red at that interval, 5-95 at green at that interval 5-95 at blue for that interval), but no matter what you do to gamma you cannot technically change the brightest white to make it brighter or make pure black darker (you can make almost white brighter but you peak out eventually, and you can make dark grays darker but you'll crush). To change the maximum white peak and black floor you adjust brightness/contrast, then the gamma handles the specifics. So that is why you use the brightness/contrast and gamma controls to try to achieve a matched image given how much ambient light is in your room, instead of just using one control of the 3. However, to truly calibrate gamma means changing each point on that curve to make a better curve, instead of just changing the overall brightness/contrast of the entire curve. The brightness and contrast will crush or blow out because there is only so much room to raise the black floor and white level before you start blending all the different levels of everything into a mess.

OK, TMI --- I know, but hey you asked --- sorry you asked right smile.gif
Edited by coderguy - 8/16/12 at 1:31am
post #3688 of 4662
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mikes2cents View Post

coderguy, I appreciate your comments here. We have done nothing here except prod the manufacturer who did respond, although slower than I would have liked. The phrase "better late than never" certainly applies here but Acer has really come through and to be honest has surpassed my expectations. I almost bought the 8200 but that thing had issues and at the time I believe I convinced the OP of the thread to change his title from it is good to it exists. So I bought a Epson 8350 instead. Good unit but the 9500 clobbers it in every category, in my eyes, even before the firmware update. Do not get me wrong, I still have the 8350 but nobody here is requesting to watch a movie on it after seeing the 9500. All I get is when will your projector be back?
Anyways, thanks for the calibration tips.

Sorry for the triple post, but nothing better to do (well actually I do, but that's another story).

Anyhow, I would agree the Acer 9500 can beat the Viewsonic in black levels and overall is the better projector. For me though, I have to pick the Viewsonic due to individual issues.

I am still ok with the Viewsonic because the only two DLP's I can live with RBE-wise are Optomas and the Viewsonic. The Optoma hd33 didn't fit in my room, so I didn't buy it, almost wished I had though when it was on sale for 24 hours, but it'd be in a very awkward position. The rest of the DLP's all have too much RBE except the super high-end ones with 6x color wheels. Due to my RBE issues, I am not able to deal with a plain 6-seg/4x color wheel again, I will be seeing rainbows until it drives me mad. I also considered buying an Optoma hd8600 (used to be $7000 DLP) because the refurbs are so cheap, but then again it's hard to justify $1500+ 2D only for another projector when I already own about $4000 worth of projectors, considered the Optoma hd8300 as well (3D and fit in my room, but expensive). The Viewsonic has a full CMS and calibrates very accurately, it is also a light cannon, and has a 7-segment color wheel. For movies the Acer has much better black levels, now it is probably a bit sharper, and the Acer has 3D. Since I already own a JVC RS-45 which easily beats the Acer in some respects, for now it's hard to justify a 3rd projector that has a 4x color wheel, though almost justified the hd33 if I could have fit it. The Viewsonic has its strengths and weaknesses like all projectors do.
Edited by coderguy - 8/16/12 at 1:28am
post #3689 of 4662
As the owner of a 9500 since Feb 2012, I have also sojourned through the 3D glasses issue and recognize the significance of work done to have ACER respond with upgraded firmware. Accordingly, what do you recommend as the best route to pursue in order to get my 9500 firmware updated?smile.gif
post #3690 of 4662
Quote:
Originally Posted by NHHT View Post

As the owner of a 9500 since Feb 2012, I have also sojourned through the 3D glasses issue and recognize the significance of work done to have ACER respond with upgraded firmware. Accordingly, what do you recommend as the best route to pursue in order to get my 9500 firmware updated?smile.gif

Call tech support. (Google "Acer tech support phone number" if you don't have it.....it's on this thread, but don't know where). If they won't pay shipping both ways, PM me.
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