Official Sony VPL-VW95ES Owners Thread - Page 42

This is a great news for me, very thanks Joerod. Can you tell me if the mask work in 3D ? In the AE7000 not work in 3D mode.

can anybody help me in regards this?

Thanks....

Only on certain 3D flicks....It's incredible!...The 3D makes the screen seem farther away, so when you get close to some of these 3D movies, the immersive effect sucks you right in!... LOVE IT! I added another front row of three seats to my theater!..For 3D!

Yes

dj

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What kind of screen (gain) distance from projector to screen ?

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Not insane at all, this is maybe the only way to get an immersive experience but the problem might be the scene brightness in 3d if the projector is too far away.

Are IMAX 3d titles or is the 2d to 3d

Blu ray 3D versions from Best Buy.

Joerod; I know you've tested the Sony VW85 in the past. I have 110 inch HP 2.8 screen. In a dark (not cave) room. Would I see a big jump in 2D quality with the 95Es vs 85?

Can someone tell if the mask work in 3D mode ?
Which is the native contraste of the VW95 without the dinamic iris and with full open Ã*ris?
Thanks for your help.
Clayton

Noticed yesterday that my lens had a decent size smudge in it. Definitely didn't come from me and I was the only one to handle or be near the unit. Cleaned it no problem with lens cleaner.

Hi,

Did you calibrate your Sony included gamma?with the software provided by Sony?Glad to hear your lens was only a little dirty.

I have a 150" Elite acoustipro 1.0 gain screen...distance from projector to screen is 20 feet. On 3D it seems the closer I sit, the brighter the screen looks.

Just 2D alone is a tougher choice. There are a couple newer twists that make the 95 stand out more but those are mainly features. Overall image wise will be closer in 2D but I will say the 95 is definitely sharper. It also will have a little more pop and be a little more refined as a unit. I loved the 85 but skipping the 90 and waiting for the 95 was very patient of you.

And if you try 3D you will believe.... That alone makes it worth it.

Today after 3 weeks of getting the unit and play around the settings, I eventually spent the whole night only watching the movies. Especially I want to see how the 3D will be. I watched the International Space Station 3D first. Then I found out the ghost is all over the place and made it almost unwatchable. Then I changed to Avatar. It was totally ghost free. I was really moving close to 3 ft from the 120" screen. It was absolutely beautiful!

I guess the source itself may also contribute to the ghost somehow.

I was using Joe's setting but switched to Gamma 4 instead.

I watched Green Lantern finally over the weekend. And I totally agree with the other report here, that it's the darkest 3D pic I've seen yet. Adding an extra 2 to brightness seemed to compensate enough without sacrificing anything. The 3D quality was excellent though. I also checked out IMAX Sea Rex, which was absolutely superb and on par with Ultimate Wave Tahiti in a lot of the use of 3D animations, etc. I am still waiting on my Xpand Youniversals to arrive thanks to a typical comms issue with the Fedex pick up in the UK! I did however note Lovingdad's post on the UK AVforum asking the reviewer about the tint vs the X103s. It's highly disappointing that the reviewer had neither the MV3Ds, let alone and quite importantly the X103s for direct comparison. Looks like I may be the guinea pig here in that dept (X103s vs). I hope I don't live to regret my eagerness to try the X104s! Also seems none of the much talked about tweak apps have materialised on any platform yet, smartphone or PC. That is a really poor way to launch a product that's been hyped that way since CES!

Can anyone please measures white and black lumens with irs fixed and closed to the max ?

same bd 1080p

http://www.avmagazine.it/forum/showp...&postcount=143

Please realize that these are not real images from the projectors...

"Example Approximate retail Unlike 1000/95
preface screenshots are not real but only two photos retouched to show roughly the difference in subjective that I personally have tried real vision."

How are you all doing your Monster Glasses tuning? I have seen some ghosting and want to adjust them, but going back and forth to the PC to change values is time consuming and seems like a shot in the dark. I have no idea what settings to change and what way to change them. It looks like I can use the joystick on the emitter to adjust it, but an example of what people have done themselves to improve it would be helpful to make sure I am not screwing it up. (Also if you have your example settings to start from that would be helpful)

Oz - Agree completely. Green Lantern is a DARK movie, and 3D for that material does require adjustment, but the 3D "Effect" was good. Avatar is much brighter and gorgeous. Cars2 was great, and IMAX Under the Sea was also great.

I have to admit that the "Under the Sea" IMAX took some getting used to. There is such depth in some of those scenes that you miss so much of the background stuff. Focus is always on the closest objects, but the depth behind those objects is detailed and you will miss it because of how the 3D draws your attention. The Potato Cod scene was not undersold. I felt like I could touch its nose. Jim Carrey is a horrible narrator though.

I had heard that the latest Pirates movie was a terrible conversion of 3D when the theater review came out but your few excellent reviews here have made me re-consider. I'll have to pick up this title.

Having 2 pair of Sony Glasses & Monster Vision glasses, I also agree that the monsters are a lot better. More comfy and have a brighter picture.

My comments here apply specifically to the Monster/Optoma glasses - I have not used the Sony glasses much (they are only for the lasts guests to arrive ).

I assume this is for use with the VW95. I haven't drawn any conclusions yet because I am still experimenting, but when watching 3D movies (and especially for evaluating ghosting) it seems very important that the projector has a warm-up period (not unlike what has been reported by users of other pjs like the JVC).

It seems the warm up period for anything but frame packed 1080p/24 may be 30-45 minutes (still experimenting). Also I do not know if the warm up period requires the lamp to be in high mode or not.

1080p/24 frame packed content seems to require less (and perhaps not any or very little) of a warm-up period. This may be because of the 96hz operation with 1080p/24 3D material compared to the 120hz with the other modes.

Again, this is all very preliminary. There are many variables involved (3D resolution, 3D format, pj cold start or not, pj running earlier in low vs high mode etc) so I haven't had enough testing sessions to isolate them and start drawing conclusions.

I can say that the SbS and TnB 3D (anything but frame packed 1080p/24) is pretty unwatchable from a cold start. But it seems that an alternate tuning can be used when it is cold to improve it considerably. But once warmed up the normal tuning is needed so watching with the alternate tuning at that point becomes an issue.

In the meantime I recommend that you a) let your pj warm up for a good 30-45 minutes, b) use the default settings on the monster transmitter (reset to factor defaults) or use 1168 (vs 1150 factory default) for Delay and 89 (89 default) for Duty cycles. For all purposes 1168 vs 1150 is likely not noticeable (we are talking micro seconds I believe) so you may want to just reset it to default and run with that. But do you analysis after a full warm up. Let me know how it goes.

I should add that on a positive note, with the pj fully warmed up and glasses property set (or at defaults) the 3D pictures is spectacular (despite some flicker I can notice but not everyone can with 1080p/24 due to the 48hz per eye refresh) - plenty bright for me, razor sharp and vibrant and fairly ghost-free depending on the source material.

Yes it's for the 95. Ok I will set it to that and test it out. I'm only using Blu Ray 3D content right now so the warm up period isn't really an issue. I am pretty much playing all of my 3D content directly from the media instead of putting it on my media center like the rest of my movies. Just makes it easier for dealing with configurations and playback.

Again this is preliminary, but it seems to me that a warm-up period is still needed if you want to minimize ghosting (albeit less warm-up than SbS or TnB).

Try this as a test. First up the pj from a cold start, find a part in a 3D blu-ray that looks a bit blurry (not massive ghosting, but something that just seems a bit off, like something you would like to tune). Now pause it on that frame. Come back 30 minutes later. Does it look more in focus / less blurry now? I'm pretty sure it will. Now, if you want to tune it further this is the point where you want to do it from. The idea is that tuning when the pj is not fully warmed up may help in the not-warmed-up stage, but once its fully warmed up your tuning may now be off. Bottom line: Tune only when fully warmed up.

Some urgent help
I brought the VW95 but i can cancel my order before they send to me.
I read that the lens memory dont work in VW95, is this true? The lens memory dont work right? Man, i have a 2.40 screen and without the lens memory working i will not buy anymore, i can cancel my order until today. I hope this is not true. I read this in the rs45 (X30) thread.
Thanks

Did you change any of your projector's settings from the default settings it uses for Blu Ray 3D Playback? Do you have to be in 3D mode to do this? I noticed that it automatically turned on motionflow when 3D was on, so I was curious.

The lens memory "mostly" works. Every time you change back and forth between 16:9 and 2.40:1 you will likely be off by a few micro-ticks on zoom and vertical shift. Seems to be the exact same direction every time for both.

On mine, when I change from Standard HD TV to Scope and Back again the picture is always a a few ticks too far down, and the zoom needs to be brought in by a few ticks to get it back to dead center. It's easy to correct with the remote and the test pattern.

Just ordered my 95 before lunch.
Any recommendations for a ceiling mount?
I saw 1 person was using the peerless universal. Anything else?

thx

very thanks for your help, but i have to say, this sound not good to me.
So, if i change between 16:9 and 2.49 10x, every time will be worse ? Will never stop in the same place ?
If the zoom change than the focus will change too, right ? So i will have to adjust this every time I go watch a movie in 2.40 ?
I am very sad with this, i dont know what to do after read your post.
Can you tell me how bad is in inch ? I have to figure out this before decide if i will confirm or not my order. Again, very thanks for your help.

The focus seems to be fine all the time once you set it. No problems with that.

It's hard to explain how much a "tick" is unless you have the projector (each adjustment is just enough that you notice a vertical line moving, which is easier to see if you have a black border where it vanishes behind). It's no where near an inch off total. Maybe 1/8 - 1/4" off vertically at most, but I think this amount would vary depending on your throw, the size of your screen, etc. It's probably more amplified the bigger it is projected. Say you put in the test pattern. It has a double-line for the "Frame" of the image. The outside line is where the image is displayed. Say zoom out so enough the top and bottom borders are parallel to the inside of my screen frame, and I adjust the shift and save the image. When I zoom in to get the full scope screen, this is the first "adjustment" of picture position. If it is off, it is by so little that I don't even bother adjusting it. When I switch back to 16:9 material, if I put the test pattern back on the screen, then it is zoomed in a little too much (top and bottom lines are slightly larger than the screen height), and then I need to adjust the vertical shift a by a few button presses each (It's like a pixel per press or so, ignoring the first click, which usually goes in the opposite direction) to get it to line up again vertically. It's a weird phenomenon... it's like whatever I save it has, the gears and the values saved don't sync, so they always put the image off in the same direction by a few small increments. In normal movie material you might not even notice it. But as one of my sources is my HTPC, it is very noticable with the bottom windows bar, as it starts to sneak off of the bottom of my screen (Easy to notice with the date/time and the start button)

It really is not off by that much, but it IS off. I haven't tested it enough times in a row to see if it is constantly compounded over time or if it is just off the same amount every time. Would be easy to do, i'll check it tonight, along with the exact number of button presses I need to make to correct it. Honestly though, the projector PICTURE is amazing, and the adjustments only take 10 seconds or so to do. If you are looking in this price bracket I don't know how such a minor inconvenience would be a deal breaker. I think I'd be more concerned on how the projector performs, which is outstanding.

I usually hit the lens memory setting once the scope blu ray starts and watch the movie without adjusting anything. Then, when it is over, I switch back to 16:9 and make the few adjustments for that mode before shutting down. Just part of the process.

I use the chief mount (RPA 020) which has the custom bracket along with the Chief Quick Connect Ceiling Plate (http://www.chiefmfg.com/Products/CMS115) . Then just went to Home Depot and got the right length 1/2" threaded nipple pipe for the right drop height.

Once you mount the ceiling plate, then you can screw in one piece of the mount to the projector and the other to the drop column. Then you can just raise the projector up connecting the mount to the bracket and slide it in the screw-grooves and just hand-tighten the screws. Make sure if you go this route that you thread your cables through the ceiling plate, the column, and the projector bracket first or you might not be able to get enough clearance to get it through later.

It went on very easy. You will save a LOT of money if you just get a black nipple pipe from Home Depot vs a "Brand Name" Chief extension column. Like $6 vs $30. The quick connect plate came with the washers but no bolts, so I had to buy 4 bolts also (They are very cheap, and the instructions tell you the exact size you should have to put into a beam, or whatever ceiling surface you are connecting too depending on your movie room design) which I just spray-painted black.