Originally Posted by damelon
How are you all doing your Monster Glasses tuning? I have seen some ghosting and want to adjust them, but going back and forth to the PC to change values is time consuming and seems like a shot in the dark. I have no idea what settings to change and what way to change them. It looks like I can use the joystick on the emitter to adjust it, but an example of what people have done themselves to improve it would be helpful to make sure I am not screwing it up. (Also if you have your example settings to start from that would be helpful)
Oz - Agree completely. Green Lantern is a DARK movie, and 3D for that material does require adjustment, but the 3D "Effect" was good. Avatar is much brighter and gorgeous. Cars2 was great, and IMAX Under the Sea was also great.
I have to admit that the "Under the Sea" IMAX took some getting used to. There is such depth in some of those scenes that you miss so much of the background stuff. Focus is always on the closest objects, but the depth behind those objects is detailed and you will miss it because of how the 3D draws your attention. The Potato Cod scene was not undersold. I felt like I could touch its nose. Jim Carrey is a horrible narrator though.
I had heard that the latest Pirates movie was a terrible conversion of 3D when the theater review came out but your few excellent reviews here have made me re-consider. I'll have to pick up this title.
Having 2 pair of Sony Glasses & Monster Vision glasses, I also agree that the monsters are a lot better. More comfy and have a brighter picture.
My comments here apply specifically to the Monster/Optoma glasses - I have not used the Sony glasses much (they are only for the lasts guests to arrive
I assume this is for use with the VW95. I haven't drawn any conclusions yet because I am still experimenting, but when watching 3D movies (and especially for evaluating ghosting) it seems very important that the projector has a warm-up period (not unlike what has been reported by users of other pjs like the JVC).
It seems the warm up period for anything but frame packed 1080p/24 may be 30-45 minutes (still experimenting). Also I do not know if the warm up period requires the lamp to be in high mode or not.
1080p/24 frame packed content seems to require less (and perhaps not any or very little) of a warm-up period. This may be because of the 96hz operation with 1080p/24 3D material compared to the 120hz with the other modes.
Again, this is all very preliminary. There are many variables involved (3D resolution, 3D format, pj cold start or not, pj running earlier in low vs high mode etc) so I haven't had enough testing sessions to isolate them and start drawing conclusions.
I can say that the SbS and TnB 3D (anything but frame packed 1080p/24) is pretty unwatchable from a cold start. But it seems that an alternate tuning can be used when it is cold to improve it considerably. But once warmed up the normal tuning is needed so watching with the alternate tuning at that point becomes an issue.
In the meantime I recommend that you a) let your pj warm up for a good 30-45 minutes, b) use the default settings on the monster transmitter (reset to factor defaults) or use 1168 (vs 1150 factory default) for Delay and 89 (89 default) for Duty cycles. For all purposes 1168 vs 1150 is likely not noticeable (we are talking micro seconds I believe) so you may want to just reset it to default and run with that. But do you analysis after a full warm up. Let me know how it goes.
I should add that on a positive note, with the pj fully warmed up and glasses property set (or at defaults) the 3D pictures is spectacular (despite some flicker I can notice but not everyone can with 1080p/24 due to the 48hz per eye refresh) - plenty bright for me, razor sharp and vibrant and fairly ghost-free depending on the source material.