Official Sony VPL-VW95ES Owners Thread - Page 53

Oh,...I'm sorry to hear that.

Congrats and good luck.

Should we start an "I told you so" thread?
Just kidding...

Very interesting.
I was at the extreme vertical offset on the projector and just purchased a 6 inch drop down tube and plate for the Peerless mount. I was getting the slightest light leakage on total black, but now to my eyes (not measured) videoblack is slightly darker and there is no light leakage. It also has improved apparent overall sharpness and on the bottom of the screen. Lastly, I seem to have a slightly brighter image.
Thoughts?...or is my eyes/mind making all this up?

Hey, I'm not kidding...without bumping up to a Sim2, "nothing" can touch the Sony anywhere within it's price realm...(and beyond)...

Picked up my 95 yesterday. Took my JVC RS1 down this am and now working on getting the 95 up. I used a Chief RPA mount with the SLBU/SLMU universal interface bracket for the RS1 and am told it will work with the 95. The JVC used 4 holes, the 95 appears to have 3. Has anybody used the universal bracket with the 95 and if so how did you configure the 3 legs? Thanks. Hoping to have new projector up today!!

I agree. Wonder why there has to be a JVC Lamp measurement thread?

The 95ES with its terrific 2D and 3D movie play and untouchable "pop" with sports is still the projector to beat in and even above its price range.

Perfect!! You the man!!

Here are some pics for you guys that show some great characteristics of the VW95.



Above is one of my favorite patterns and I've used it as a reference against each pj I've owned. Thought you guys would like to see it in action. Notice the very fine resolution that goes deep into the center, where you can clearly see space between the spikes all the way in. This was taken with the sharpness control off. I've never had a pj that was this detailed in the pattern. I think this helps explain why fine details look so great with this pj, as I noted in my impressions a week or so ago.



Above is a picture of my convergence after some fine turning with the panel shift function (did not use zone shift). I used about 0.5 pixels down for blue and about 0.25 pixels down and over for red. Prior to this adjustment it was average. After the adjustment it is by far the best convergence in any pj I've had. There is what looks like some slight CA for green on the last 20% on one side that is not noticeable from a few feet back.

Hi,
Yes,indeed 95es is something special.
It throws such a beautiful picture and when i think by myself why i like it so much i can't think for one reason,is the sum of multiple factors and this is why this PJ is so special.
By the way 0.5 for B down it means 5 clicks down,right?

Yes. To be more specific I used 6 clicks down for blue, and two clicks right and down for red.

Hi,
I made a comparison from your picture with resolution pattern and the one from RS55.You can see the difference between 95es and RS55.In my eyes 95es is better in every way

Great tip. I confirmed that last night. So although the color temp (I am using Custom 1) and user mode stay the same when you switch the iris between Auto, Manual, and OFF, the pj indeed is maintaining separate RGB gains and offsets accordingly. IOW there is Custom 1 Auto, Custom 1 Manual and Custom 1 OFF (not labeled that way but effectively that's what it is).

IMPORTANT: This means that anyone who calibrated with the iris in manual or Off and is running with Auto, and did not also set the gains with auto engaged, is running with a CT that is likely significantly off.


I am going to read through the VW60 tweakers thread (wow 50 pages, really?) and see what tips I can pick up from there.


Does that mean you are opening it more (brighter, probably) or closing it more (dimmer)? Is there any potential downside from doing this, other than risking running out of headroom (which can be checked)? What do you gain out of this - higher brightness with same on/off contrast (black level stays the same) and to what extent?

I noticed in the VW95 service menu there is a section labeled "Gamma". Once you enter there you can change between 0 - 100 IRE in steps of 10.

Within each of those 11 steps you can then move a pointer along the screen. There are 300-some positions for the pointer. For each row you can move it across 17 different positions from side to side, and about 20 positions from top to bottom.

Then from each position you can then adjust R, G, and B. The defaults appear to be all zeros (although at some point I seemed to be scrolling through all sorts of preset numbers, but at a later point there were all zeros ), and from what I remember it can be set negative or positive.

Anyone care to guess what this control is all about? It seems like it is a zone based gamma control that could be used to adjust out color shift and/or brightness uniformity. Maybe if someone had something like bright corners or other shift or uniformity it could be handled with this?

Yes , for test and "perfect" convergence - but normally, I only use the shift, because it gets so close, that I cant see the small convergence error at 1m or more ( I sit 2,7 m away ) and then avoiding the "splashes" !


dj

You aren't seriously making this assessment from the screen shots are you?
Which screen shots did you compare? Was it the last one from Geof to the one posted by lovingdvd here? If so, you are comparing the camera/exposure/skill etc exhibited by the photograph more than you are any test screens. Geof's photo is clearly much brighter, probably meaning higher exposure and the center of the image is blown out contrast-wise, losing all the finest detail. Look at his earlier close up shots of the test pattern and obviously all that detail is actually there.

Not to say this means the JVC is better...but judging from those screen shots isn't terribly wise.

Did try that it was very close, but a very little more ghosting ( I did use zoombie10k´s avatar scene - with the sign - ) - I will try too get more light say 66 - 73 ( did try 73 as someone else in here use- was it you ? ) and then play with delay - with duty at around 70 it looks like same brightness as the Sony glasses.

Btw. it is easyer to adjust with the PC on, but use a combination off the joystick and the sliders on the PC ( smaller and more precise steps - 50 - pr move ) the joystick´s steps, depends on how quick you can "toogle" the stick

I sat in three hours adjusting, without stop,the last time to trim it - my eyes and brain was in overload under/after that


dj

R Harkness

FWIIW ( correct ? for whats it is worth ) the X70 I saw, looked very good and in a very high level off quality - just like the 95ES.

The only "problem" with projector´s in this level and price is - we ( I ) expect it to be nearly "perfect" and they never are ( we / I allways find some small detail, that isnt, and then hell is lose ).


dj

[quote=lovingdvd;21328834]Great tip. I confirmed that last night. So although the color temp (I am using Custom 1) and user mode stay the same when you switch the iris between Auto, Manual, and OFF, the pj indeed is maintaining separate RGB gains and offsets accordingly. IOW there is Custom 1 Auto, Custom 1 Manual and Custom 1 OFF (not labeled that way but effectively that's what it is).

IMPORTANT: This means that anyone who calibrated with the iris in manual or Off and is running with Auto, and did not also set the gains with auto engaged, is running with a CT that is likely significantly off.


I am going to read through the VW60 tweakers thread (wow 50 pages, really?) and see what tips I can pick up from there.



Does that mean you are opening it more (brighter, probably) or closing it more (dimmer)? Is there any potential downside from doing this, other than risking running out of headroom (which can be checked)? What do you gain out of this - higher brightness with same on/off contrast (black level stays the same) and to what extent?[/QUOTE]


That cant be done or can it ? if you get higher brightness AND the black level stays the same - then the on/off contrast cant be the same, it will better/ bigger, right ?! or am I reading it wrong ? ..... that it is not at the same time for instance, first a picture with black level at min. ( iris at same Reg closed number, as the fabric setting in the service menu) and then a picture with brightness in it ( with the adjusted more open iris , because off a higher Reg open number then the fabric setting ), but this is with a higher black level floor, correct ( aka same contrast ratio ) ?

Sorry if I messing around in it , but I too, find it very interesting to play with the iris in the service meny to improve it even more, so Im with you on this

dj

I will try your 1720 Delay when I have a chance. I may be wrong, but I am pretty sure there is only ONE correct setting for Delay for the same display (i.e. only one "right" setting for the VW95). AFAIK, the Sony glasses are using 1150 which is what the Monster/Optoma glasses default to when it recognizes the device if you haven't used fine tuning.

As for the Duty Cycle, I think that is more source (and possibly screen) dependent and best set to taste, as you are finding.

I have not tested it, but I am pretty sure that if you have your transmitter set to factory defaults (reset it, not zero it back to the default numbers) then you can tweak Delay but do not touch duty cycle there. Then you can use the 3D Brightness in the VW95 menu and it will control the Duty Cycle in the glasses! This way you can easily vary the Duty Cycle through the VW95 menu based on the material you are watching, suited to taste. Let me know if you try it how it works for you.

Do any of you with a 95ES have a 'really big' screen? E.g., mine (a HP2.4) is 144x72 (128x72 for 16x9, and 144x62 for 2.35)--which for me, anyway, is 'really big'--and I fear that the brightness of a 95 might be lacking. Would be interested to hear what you guys are finding.

I dont want to use the brightness adjustment in the projector, because if you use the Sony glasses at the same time - they will change too , and I believe they work best in mode 3 allmost allways ( best compromise betwen brightness and ghosting ) - but still it is a good point if I or others only use the MV´s

Thanks, lovingdvd


dj

Millerwill

I have smaller screen´s then your´s ( 100" 4:3 / 92" 16:9 with gain 1.3 and a 2.40 diagonal 110" with gain 2.8 ) and I, like you, would be very cautious, even if I wanted just a bigger screen then what I have now, because off lamp dimming with use and because I begins to get used to more brightness and like it ( thanks Zoombie10k, for all that talk about brightness , HP screens, POP´s etc. ) and I did have a CRT for many year´s ( talk about dim picture - but you get used to it and fine black level )

BTW. thats one off the resons( for me ) to look a little closer at the 1000ES

dj

In prior models there used to be a control called "3D Gamma" IIRC. It is strictly for uniformity (shading) control and best left alone unless one has automated measurement/adjustment equipment.

I know what you mean about getting 'hooked on brightness': I had the pleasure several weeks ago of visiting Citation4444's home and saw his old (720p) C3X projecting onto a Dalite HP2.8 screen. I was probably producing 40 to 50 ftL, and looking FANTASTIC!

So this has also got me very interested in the 1000ES; hope it turns out as advertised. If so, it's ~1500 (D65) lumens would produce this level of brightness from my screen. (Cine4home's new preview is encouraging.)

Speaking of level of detail, has anyone fired up "Cowboys & Aliens" BD on their 95? The sharpness and detail is impeccable, probably one of the best I've seen so far out of everything I've tried.
Only issue I'm having (not on this particular movie, just in general) is fringing around fast moving objects using motionflow setting of low. I have sharpness set to 5 and using Cinema1 and auto iris 1. Just wondering if anyone else is seeing it or if I'm just sensitive to it. I don't think this is normal, it should be smooth, right?

Agreed.

I would love to see the Sony which I'm sure is awesome. Just no chance. Maybe for the best. You see some things another projector does better and it can bread discontent

Hi,
Yes, i was comparing his last picture with sharpness all way up to 22.For that reason i was thinking that 95es it resolve the detail better then RS55.I was talking only for resolution pattern.

Projector review's has started posting the review of this projector http://www.projectorreviews.com/sony...95es/index.php