Originally Posted by Manni01
30 fL for front projection in a true bat cave, with black velvet on the walls/ceiling/floor, and without wearing sunglasses?
If that's the case, I have no idea how people can take such an amount of light, but it might just be a difference in taste
Even though I have always considered myself a brightness freak I agree with you 100%. I get about 14-15ftL now and it looks very bright in my light controlled room. I put in a 3D movie last night and the pj automatically went into high lamp and when the opening scene came up I was nearly blinded! In that mode I get about 20ftL.
Of course that is before I put the glasses on. But nonetheless I can see how bright 20ftL is and its way too bright for me. I think I have to adjust my brightness-freak status.
However, unless there is an IRIS CLOSE REG wich you can change to keep the contrast, it won't be a solution as I would obviously lose contrast if I only lower the top end.
Indeed there is an IRIS CLOSE REG.
I would doubt this is possible though because I'm sure the iris closes as low as possible in fade to black situations when using DI.
Actually according to AVS member Dr. Spankenstein the auto iris CAN be clamped down further using the CLOSE REG. Like you said though, this brings to mind why then wouldn't Sony ship it in its max setting. Maybe the reason is that it could make low APL scenes too dark for some peoples' taste? Or maybe because it could make for longer transition time for the iris from bright to dark and vice versa and thereby make its operation more visible (I never see or hear the iris operating).
With the Ruby we did some iris tweaking. IIRC in that case I was opening the top end to get more light. May have been about a 20% boost. The downside from what I remember is that it made the transitions slower so I could see some fade in or fade out with quick APL changes. It may have led to some brightness compression too, just thinking about it in theory, but I can't recall.
Some folks have posted a few tips about it but information and details have been sparse. There is relevant info in the VW60 Tweakers Thread, which I have been mining through (about half way done so far).
I was hoping to gather such fine details and strategies so I do not have to reinvent the wheel, as it could take many hours to experiment and find out what everything does and determine the best practices.
If an owner is interested in lowering overall brightness without losing contrast,and can try these suggestions, please let us know if it is possible and if there is a loss of contrast or not.
These test are high up on my interest list. I'm intrigued. But I'm not sure how soon I will get to it. Its going to involve a deep dive, and unlike past years I've been trying to spend the majority of my time watching and enjoying rather than tweaking.
Since this info may be helpful for you I will try to at least take some basic measurements over the weekend to confirm what is going on. For instance, I will measure the light output at 0 IRE and see what affect moving close reg has. Likewise I'll do the same with the OPEN REG and a 100 IRE pattern to see what it allows on the top end.
My ultimate goal with this is to see if I can find a way to make improvements on both ends, giving me a better black floor, some more brightness (without going crazy), and even greater on/off as a result.
I do not know what affect this will have on gamma, grayscale, shadow details or brightness compression, if any. So some testing will be in order. I think it will be much more manageable if I spend my first few testing sessions just gathering some data.
I wouldn't expect or need the on/off to go higher than 120000:1, I just wouldn't like having 60000:1 on/off or less with DI once I've adjusted the max brightness to get max 14-15fL (which is the absolute max I find comfortable to watch in my bat cave).
Using the projector calculator, it looks like I should get around 20fL in best mode, low lamp with a new bulb (15fL after 500 hours). If correct, at least it wouldn't be too dim to start with.
Thanks all for the suggestions.
My guess is that there is more room to bring the top end down than the bottom end (i.e. if the top end can be lowered by 20% it may not be as likely that the bottom end has 20% room for improvement too) in which case there would be some loss in CR.
If anyone can lay out a concrete plan for start to finish on how to go about testing this, what params to change and test and in what order, I'm all ears!