Quote:
Originally Posted by
maximus74 
Hi,
Dave,you can elaborate in more detail what i have to do to make a good gamma adjustments on my 95ES?or to point one tutorial about that (ID3)
I tryed last night but without success.
On the graphs i didn't understand what i have to do to adjust 10,20,30% gamma.....
I don't understand the value 10.23 ,represent the value that i have to obtain on each gamma step?where i can follow the step on the graphs?
Maybe it's me,or is the language barrier,but i want to calibrate by myself this projector(i have the probe,chromapure.....everything in place),only my knowledge are not.
Thanks anyway for your support.
There are two ways to start:
a) Pick a gamma that's close to where you want to start (like Gamma 4), or
b) Pick a crappy gamma and reset the value to a straight line. Then, using the course adjustment, grab the middle of the bar, and bend it down by maybe one grid.
Make sure you've set your offsets all to 0 in your colour profile. You have no need for this adjustment because you'll be balancing out the colours via the gamma graph.
Then we start:
- Measure at 100% and balance the colour using the GAIN controls
- Do a complete gamma measurement
- Analyse the results, and see where your gamma is too high or too low
- If your gamma is too high (numerically) at a given value, then you're adjusting the curve up at that point.
- If your gamma is too low (numerically) at a given value, then you're adjusting the curve down at that point.
Let's pick say the gamma at 30% and assume it's 2.1 and you want 2.2. To get the gamma adjusted, you use the "fine" controls, and set to adjust "white", probably using the 7-point control. The spot you look for on the graph is at 30 x 10.23, so just over 300. Look for the control point on the line that is nearest 300, and you want to be pulling it downward by maybe half a grid or so for a bigger adjustment, and much less so for smaller adjustments. You'll have to play with it a bit to see how things get affected.
You keep doing this for all the points you want to adjust, and as you go, you'll probably want to go in and smooth the graph out a bit in between the points you've adjusted. LIke between your 10% adjustment and your 20% adjustment you may have a peak or a valley - smooth that out to match with your 10% and 20% settings.
Then you go back to step 1, measure, and keep going until the gamma curve is what you want it to be.
Once the curve is quite accurate to what you want, then you go through and balance the colours at each setting. This is where you want your real-time updating turned on.
Put up a 10% grey, and look at your calibration software's results for what it's putting out. Let's say it's reading 120% in red. Choose to adjust "red" from the ID3 window, go to the 10% part of the graph (around 100), and start pulling the curve down a bit at a time. With the real time update, you'll see the next reading and adjust accordingly, until the colours are all balanced. Repeat all the way up the scale to 90%. Remeasure again, and keep tweaking. You only want to adjust red and blue this way, centering them around green. Adjusting green has a much bigger impact on your gamma, and then you'll have to reset the white curve again.
Once the 10%'s are good, you can smooth out the curves, and then go back in on the 5% scale if you like.
Once done, this should give you the exact gamma you want and almost perfect colour balance throught the entire range.
I've written this very quickly as I'm just headed out of the office, so hopefully I didn't skip a step or two. If anyone notices errors or omissions, please let me know and I'll edit once I get home.
Plus their glasses are not nearly as comfortable as the Monsters! 
