or Connect
AVS › AVS Forum › Display Devices › Digital Hi-End Projectors - $3,000+ USD MSRP › Official Sony VPL-VW95ES Owners Thread
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

Official Sony VPL-VW95ES Owners Thread - Page 99

post #2941 of 3559
Quote:
Originally Posted by sanderdvd View Post

just did some more testing: the fan is actaully in a low state when there s no input on the VW95. As soon as I put on my HTPC and the VW95 gets a signal (and picture) the fan starts to run faster for 10 seconds to a point where it is stable. The high lamp mode even gives a higher fan noise. So what does this tell me?

It does not sound normal at all to me. I have never observed this behavior and haven't seen others report it.

Maybe as a point of troubleshooting you could try hooking the pj up directly to a blu-ray player and see if it still happens. It probably will but that way you can rule out any possibly oddity with the HTPC. Just simply and reduce as much as possible and see if the problem persists. Have you tried talking to your dealer or Sony about it?
post #2942 of 3559
Hi everyone,
I've read a lot in this thread about the 95es, Everyone seemed very pleased with this PJ, the only concern as it seems, is the brightness.
I have a 133" 2.35 BD screen with a gain of 1.4 (almost 10' 4" Wide).
I used Coderguy's calculator and according to it, it wont be bright enough,
Also, the PJ will be wall mounted around 14.5' away from the screen, Can the 95 fill the screen with this distance??
PS: I can go further than 15' but I don't want to lose brightness.
post #2943 of 3559
Looong time "lurker" finally prepping my first dedicated HT and after hours and hours of reading/research this projector is the front-runner. I'll be modeling the entire setup, seating, lighting, decor using computer animation software (in stereoscopic 3D no less) prior so I don't expect construction to start in earnest for about another 6mo's (just bought the home in fact so there's some other things I'm doing with the place first). I'll have 13'x17' w/ 9' ceiling to play with so won't be the biggest but big enough for my purposes. Will be 100% light-controlled and blacked out w/ combo of paint and fabric.

Anyhow, as izez0 is querying above, my question centers on the screen. I'm going to be in the minority in that 3D is actually very important for me. It won't necessarily be the majority of my movie-viewing, but I work with and produce my own stereocopic content (both photography and cgi) and naturally I will want to review my work as well as 3D movies using my eventual setup. Right now a 75" 2cd gen Mits LaserVue fulfills this need.


So my question is, for those of you that enjoy 3D content and are satisfied with the brightness levels you're getting with this projector and screen-of-choice, would you care to post your basic spec's? Screen-brand, Gain, Projector-lens dist. to screen I guess are what I'd be most interested in.


I really want to do 120" and I'm leaning towards the Stewart Ultramatte 150. I'm mostly concerend about "sparklies" though with this and how far back seating would need to be for it not to be noticed/intrusive. Throw and projector height are wide open within limits of room dimensions described. I've already played with the elite projectorcalculator as well as FLBoy's Excel-based calculator so now I'm looking for real-world experience.

This is all about compromises of course, but at least want to get the best compromise I can for both 2D and 3D viewing. And as much as I'd love the W1000 it's beyond my means for now.

For the interested, I *do* plan to do a build thread once things get underway, but like I said it will be awhile yet so I'll have to entertain myself by constructing in the computer first. Who knows, maybe Sony will introduce a new model in the fall? Not sure of the frequency of their new-product/projector cycle... Thanks!
post #2944 of 3559
Quote:
Originally Posted by Häagenstein View Post

Looong time "lurker" finally prepping my first dedicated HT and after hours and hours of reading/research this projector is the front-runner. I'll be modeling the entire setup, seating, lighting, decor using computer animation software (in stereoscopic 3D no less) prior so I don't expect construction to start in earnest for about another 6mo's (just bought the home in fact so there's some other things I'm doing with the place first). I'll have 13'x17' w/ 9' ceiling to play with so won't be the biggest but big enough for my purposes. Will be 100% light-controlled and blacked out w/ combo of paint and fabric.

Anyhow, as izez0 is querying above, my question centers on the screen. I'm going to be in the minority in that 3D is actually very important for me. It won't necessarily be the majority of my movie-viewing, but I work with and produce my own stereocopic content (both photography and cgi) and naturally I will want to review my work as well as 3D movies using my eventual setup. Right now a 75" 2cd gen Mits LaserVue fulfills this need.


So my question is, for those of you that enjoy 3D content and are satisfied with the brightness levels you're getting with this projector and screen-of-choice, would you care to post your basic spec's? Screen-brand, Gain, Projector-lens dist. to screen I guess are what I'd be most interested in.


I really want to do 120" and I'm leaning towards the Stewart Ultramatte 150. I'm mostly concerend about "sparklies" though with this and how far back seating would need to be for it not to be noticed/intrusive. Throw and projector height are wide open within limits of room dimensions described. I've already played with the elite projectorcalculator as well as FLBoy's Excel-based calculator so now I'm looking for real-world experience.

This is all about compromises of course, but at least want to get the best compromise I can for both 2D and 3D viewing. And as much as I'd love the W1000 it's beyond my means for now.

For the interested, I *do* plan to do a build thread once things get underway, but like I said it will be awhile yet so I'll have to entertain myself by constructing in the computer first. Who knows, maybe Sony will introduce a new model in the fall? Not sure of the frequency of their new-product/projector cycle... Thanks!

You would want around 1.6 times screen width, so about a 14' throw. That way you would not get any hot spotting. The UltraMatte 150 screen would be a good choice for good 2D and 3D. Another option would be to consider a two screen set up, giving more brightness for 3D using a High Power if you can set it up correctly in your room. Give us a call and we would be happy to make recommendations for your room.
Reply
Reply
post #2945 of 3559
Hi all.

I am considering purchasing a VPL-VW95ES. I currently use a JVC X30/RS45 that I am pleased with overall. However I have one issue that is troubling me a lot. I am extremely sensitive to rainbow effect/color break-up. I belong to the minority that can see this effect not only on single-chip DLP but also on some other projector technologies. My two previous projectors have been a Sanyo PLV-Z700 and Panasonic PT-AE7000. I saw absolutely no color breakup on these machines. But with the JVC, I see something that looks almost like green phosphor lag on a plasma. It is only visible in high contrast scenes with motion, or when I move my eyes in a high contrast scene. I have looked at several JVC D-ILA projectors and they all have this effect regardless of cables, bluray player etc. The technical reason for this is most likely the 120hz frequency of the panel (Sony has 240hz and Panasonic use 480hz frequency).

I am having a hard time talking about this issue in the JVC X30 owners thread because most people think that I am stupid/crazy because they do not see it.

I am looking for opinions from VPL-VW95ES owners with sensitive eyes - how does this projector perform in this aspect? No offence - but I am not interested in hearing opinions from people who do not see this flaw on JVC D-ILA projectors or DLP. I am only interested in hearing from sensitive people that made their choice partly based on the RBE/color breakup aspect.

I have had a few demos of the VW95 and I saw no color break-up during these tests. I am just looking for some comforting words from owners before I pay $2000 more for this machine.

I want to be able to enjoy movies again, even if they are high contrast (like Batman - Dark Knight or Tron Legacy). I hope VW95ES can make this possible...

Thanks for your time!
/ Jacob
post #2946 of 3559
Quote:
Originally Posted by ja.jo View Post

Hi all.

I am considering purchasing a VPL-VW95ES. I currently use a JVC X30/RS45 that I am pleased with overall. However I have one issue that is troubling me a lot. I am extremely sensitive to rainbow effect/color break-up. I belong to the minority that can see this effect not only on single-chip DLP but also on some other projector technologies. My two previous projectors have been a Sanyo PLV-Z700 and Panasonic PT-AE7000. I saw absolutely no color breakup on these machines. But with the JVC, I see something that looks almost like green phosphor lag on a plasma. It is only visible in high contrast scenes with motion, or when I move my eyes in a high contrast scene. I have looked at several JVC D-ILA projectors and they all have this effect regardless of cables, bluray player etc. The technical reason for this is most likely the 120hz frequency of the panel (Sony has 240hz and Panasonic use 480hz frequency).

I am having a hard time talking about this issue in the JVC X30 owners thread because most people think that I am stupid/crazy because they do not see it.

I am looking for opinions from VPL-VW95ES owners with sensitive eyes - how does this projector perform in this aspect? No offence - but I am not interested in hearing opinions from people who do not see this flaw on JVC D-ILA projectors or DLP. I am only interested in hearing from sensitive people that made their choice partly based on the RBE/color breakup aspect.

I have had a few demos of the VW95 and I saw no color break-up during these tests. I am just looking for some comforting words from owners before I pay $2000 more for this machine.

I want to be able to enjoy movies again, even if they are high contrast (like Batman - Dark Knight or Tron Legacy). I hope VW95ES can make this possible...

Thanks for your time!
/ Jacob

I have talked to a lot of Sony owners and I have never heard of any complaints of color breakup on the Sony projectors. Hopefully that gives you some comfort.
Reply
Reply
post #2947 of 3559
Quote:
Originally Posted by AV Science Sales 5 View Post

I have talked to a lot of Sony owners and I have never heard of any complaints of color breakup on the Sony projectors. Hopefully that gives you some comfort.

Only a little. Mainly because I suspect that people who see this artifact is a very small minority of users. That is why I would be happy to hear from someone who can say "Yes, I have seen this issue with the JVC D-ILA projectors but the Sony has none of it!".

I had one confirmation through PM that the VPL-HW30ES does not have it. So the 95 shouldn't either. But I am still waiting to hear it from someone

/ Jacob
post #2948 of 3559
Quote:
Originally Posted by ja.jo View Post

Only a little. Mainly because I suspect that people who see this artifact is a very small minority of users. That is why I would be happy to hear from someone who can say "Yes, I have seen this issue with the JVC D-ILA projectors but the Sony has none of it!".

I had one confirmation through PM that the VPL-HW30ES does not have it. So the 95 shouldn't either. But I am still waiting to hear it from someone

/ Jacob

Did you validate what you are seeing on another X30?
post #2949 of 3559
Quote:
Originally Posted by zombie10k View Post

Did you validate what you are seeing on another X30?

Yep, checked 3 including my own.

/ j
post #2950 of 3559
Quote:
Originally Posted by AV Science Sales 5 View Post

You would want around 1.6 times screen width, so about a 14' throw. That way you would not get any hot spotting. The UltraMatte 150 screen would be a good choice for good 2D and 3D. Another option would be to consider a two screen set up, giving more brightness for 3D using a High Power if you can set it up correctly in your room. Give us a call and we would be happy to make recommendations for your room.

Quote:


...around 1.6 times screen width, so about a 14' throw.

That's very close to my own estimates, albeit I could *possibly* stand to sit a little closer. I'm one of those that tends more towards the front of the theater than the back, but either way, I will be working with another projector prior to validate not just my comfort level but that of the Mrs. too, so the 1.5-1.6 SW seating ratio will probably wind up being on the mark.

Also would consider the Stewart Reflections 170 but same concerns with sparklies/shimmer as with the 1.5 bumped up even more.

Quote:


two screen set up

That was indeed another consideration, just wasn't sure if I could come up with dual-screen solution that's affordable. The Stewart Daily-Dual and Vutec Vision X/X2 solutions seemed like they would push the envelope of affordability for me, but I'm not going to rule it out completely.

I've actually not seen pricing on the Vutec solution, and although it seemed geared more as an alternative to a masking system (dual aspect ratios) I don't see why it couldn't be tailored to dual screen materials. I'm open to these and other alternative dual-screen solutions if I can afford them. The 13' room width and required installation space of the Stewart Daily-Dual could come into play, preventing me from reaching my desired 120" 16:9 screen-size. Decisions decisions...

Quote:


High Power if you can set it up correctly

It would be a little bit of a challenge, but I had actually been giving the Da-Lite High Power serious consideration. I was disappointed with discontinuance of the seemingly "fan-favorite" 2.8 gain version due to lots of reported quality-control issues with the 2.4 gain version (although some are reporting they actually prefer the 2.4 anyhow).

If I did this, I imagine I'd have to stop down the iris for 2D. Also looked (not first hand) at the Vutec Silverstar, as they have versions for both Active and Passive 3D. Despite the claimed 6.0 gain I think my understanding is that it actually measures much lower in reality. Not sure how viewing cone and hot-spotting compare to Da-Lite. Again so many options.

The high-power screens seem to be a really personal preference and those that have them seem to love them but still wonder if gains that high wouldn't be overkill with this projector. Especially in a no-windows dedicated cave. But again, I'm willing to consider all options, which is why I'm very interested to hear from current VW95ES owners that enjoy 3D *and* are happy {enough} with what they're getting with their current screen.

Quote:


we would be happy to make recommendations

And I'll be happy to hear them. Just as this projector rose to the top of my pick-list, AVS is at top of my list on who I plan to call when I'm at that point.
I've been reading this forum a looong time and should've joined when I got the LaserVue really (or my 65" CRT Panny 1080i RPTV waay back lol) so your/AVS's reputation precedes you in a very good way.

Ouch, looking at what I just typed this could count as 2 posts lol...
post #2951 of 3559
Asked this question a few times now but no one seems to know the answer/have time to respond:

Looking for a detailed guide how to make the custom cable so I can connect my Optoma emitter to my Sony VW95.
post #2952 of 3559
Quote:
Originally Posted by ja.jo View Post

Hi all.

I am considering purchasing a VPL-VW95ES. I currently use a JVC X30/RS45 that I am pleased with overall. However I have one issue that is troubling me a lot. I am extremely sensitive to rainbow effect/color break-up. I belong to the minority that can see this effect not only on single-chip DLP but also on some other projector technologies. My two previous projectors have been a Sanyo PLV-Z700 and Panasonic PT-AE7000. I saw absolutely no color breakup on these machines. But with the JVC, I see something that looks almost like green phosphor lag on a plasma. It is only visible in high contrast scenes with motion, or when I move my eyes in a high contrast scene. I have looked at several JVC D-ILA projectors and they all have this effect regardless of cables, bluray player etc. The technical reason for this is most likely the 120hz frequency of the panel (Sony has 240hz and Panasonic use 480hz frequency).

I am having a hard time talking about this issue in the JVC X30 owners thread because most people think that I am stupid/crazy because they do not see it.

I am looking for opinions from VPL-VW95ES owners with sensitive eyes - how does this projector perform in this aspect? No offence - but I am not interested in hearing opinions from people who do not see this flaw on JVC D-ILA projectors or DLP. I am only interested in hearing from sensitive people that made their choice partly based on the RBE/color breakup aspect.

I have had a few demos of the VW95 and I saw no color break-up during these tests. I am just looking for some comforting words from owners before I pay $2000 more for this machine.

I want to be able to enjoy movies again, even if they are high contrast (like Batman - Dark Knight or Tron Legacy). I hope VW95ES can make this possible...

Thanks for your time!
/ Jacob

After having about three 30s and three 95s here I will say I have never witnessed what you described once. Same for the three 1000s I have had here.
post #2953 of 3559
I'm sensitive to colour breakup as well and I've never seen it on my HW30.
post #2954 of 3559
Do you guys use/like the motion enhancer for 3D?
post #2955 of 3559
Quote:
Originally Posted by sanderdvd View Post

Do you guys use/like the motion enhancer for 3D?

I don't just like it, I love it. So not only do I use it but I use it on High for 3D. For 2D I sometimes use it on Low and other times have it off. But for 3D I find that on High it adds nice stability to the image and also helps reduce the slight flicker that I sometimes see in bright scenes due to the 48hz operation of the glasses (I am very sensitive to such flicker, most are not and do not see it).
post #2956 of 3559
Quote:
Originally Posted by lovingdvd View Post

I don't just like it, I love it. So not only do I use it but I use it on High for 3D. For 2D I sometimes use it on Low and other times have it off. But for 3D I find that on High it adds nice stability to the image and also helps reduce the slight flicker that I sometimes see in bright scenes due to the 48hz operation of the glasses (I am very sensitive to such flicker, most are not and do not see it).

I like the smoothness in the high mode but it gives WAY too much artifacts in fast moving scenes. Low also gives artifacts from time to time but less.
post #2957 of 3559
Quote:
Originally Posted by sanderdvd View Post

I like the smoothness in the high mode but it gives WAY too much artifacts in fast moving scenes. Low also gives artifacts from time to time but less.

I do not notice any artifacts in 3D normally. I do notice them in 2D on Low, which is the main reason I sometimes have to turn it off.

Speaking of 3D - I watched Huge in 3D the other night. Very little ghosting (and even then just on a few select scenes) with the Monster/Optoma glasses and the 3D Brightness on the Sony set to MAX-1. When set to MAX it is noticably brighter but the ghosting was more apparent so despite trying to turn it up to MAX (knowing this would likely happen) I wound up watching and enjoying it on MAX-1.

I have some important notes on 3D calibration which I'll be posting soon.
post #2958 of 3559
Quote:
Originally Posted by lovingdvd View Post

I do not notice any artifacts in 3D normally. I do notice them in 2D on Low, which is the main reason I sometimes have to turn it off.

Speaking of 3D - I watched Huge in 3D the other night. Very little ghosting (and even then just on a few select scenes) with the Monster/Optoma glasses and the 3D Brightness on the Sony set to MAX-1. When set to MAX it is noticably brighter but the ghosting was more apparent so despite trying to turn it up to MAX (knowing this would likely happen) I wound up watching and enjoying it on MAX-1.

I have some important notes on 3D calibration which I'll be posting soon.

They are very apparent in non animated movies. Play Transformers 3 and look at fast moving people/hands reaching out (NOT the autobots).
In 2D it s also unwatchable for me. I rather prefer a 'choppy' image then artifacts. A good example of the motion enhancer going wrong is the opening scene of The Dark Night where the camera flies over the buildings (look at the stones on the buildings!)

What benefits will I get from the Optoma glasses instead of the Sony glasses?

Looking forward to your 3D notes. Sneak peak?
post #2959 of 3559
Quote:
Originally Posted by lovingdvd View Post

I do not notice any artifacts in 3D normally. I do notice them in 2D on Low, which is the main reason I sometimes have to turn it off.

Speaking of 3D - I watched Huge in 3D the other night. Very little ghosting (and even then just on a few select scenes) with the Monster/Optoma glasses and the 3D Brightness on the Sony set to MAX-1. When set to MAX it is noticably brighter but the ghosting was more apparent so despite trying to turn it up to MAX (knowing this would likely happen) I wound up watching and enjoying it on MAX-1.

I have some important notes on 3D calibration which I'll be posting soon.

Very interesting, and different from my experience. In too many scenes, I saw a dark band on the left side of Hugo's white face, and there were a lot of such scenes. There was other ghosting too. 3D brightness didn't matter, it just affected brightness, not the existence of ghosting. I can still see it with minimum 3d brightness, though everything is of course dim. This was the same whether using Monster or Sony glasses. Yes, sharpness was minimum. Also, to double check it, I looked again after the projector had been on for 4 hours, so it wasn't a warming up issue for me.
post #2960 of 3559
I was finally able to make the custom cable needed for the MV3D emitter myself (with some help of John). My emitter is now connected to the Sony and I m ready to use my MV3D (Optoma RF) glasses.

1.
How do I pair the glasses with the emitter?

2.
I can set the polarity to TWO red leds or THREE red leds. What is the recommended setting of polarity for the VW95?

3.
I can set the DELAY TUNING and LENS DUTY CYCLE TUNING with the arrows in the submenu of the emitter. What are the best settings for the VW95/what is a good starting-point?

thanks!
post #2961 of 3559
I like Motion Enhancer is mode 1, not 2. 2 makes things look way to CG to me.

One thing I do not understand is how the film modes (in the expert settings) work. I routinely have to turn this off for some movies as it induces judder. Most of the time however, I leave in in Film 1. You should play around with this some while the Motion Enhancer is in mode 1, as it does work with the film modes to some degree. This is only 2D for me though. I hate 3D and have not bothered to mess with it much at all.
post #2962 of 3559
I ended up turning off the film mode. I was seeing what you saw also.

I believe the film mode is only needed for interlaced sources where 3:2 pull down or similar is should be performed by the projector. If your bluray player is outputting 1080p, the bluray player is doing this work and the pj does not need to...

Unfortunately it seems the implementation in the hw30 (and I assume the vw95) isn't great at detecting it should do nothing and causes jerky judder in some conditions.

Just my 2 cents... Interested in whether others agree.
post #2963 of 3559
I use a Radiance XS and output to the projector 1080P/60. When I select film mode 1 (or 2 even), it makes the image look smoother to me, just better. But, there are some times when it introduces judder and I have to turn it off. I am perplexed by this and do not understand why this is happening. One BR disk in particular was the Season one of BBC's Sherloc Holmes (great series btw).
post #2964 of 3559
Quote:
Originally Posted by sanderdvd View Post

I was finally able to make the custom cable needed for the MV3D emitter myself (with some help of John). My emitter is now connected to the Sony and I m ready to use my MV3D (Optoma RF) glasses.

1.
How do I pair the glasses with the emitter?

2.
I can set the polarity to TWO red leds or THREE red leds. What is the recommended setting of polarity for the VW95?

3.
I can set the DELAY TUNING and LENS DUTY CYCLE TUNING with the arrows in the submenu of the emitter. What are the best settings for the VW95/what is a good starting-point?

thanks!

1. Nothing special needed to pair with the emitter, unless you have multiple emitters and want to lock a pair of glasses to a particular emitter.

2. I can depend on your system but generally speaking polarity should not be reversed. Start with normal polarity. Pause an image with good depth. Look at it thru the glasses and note how good it looks. Now flip the glasses 180 degrees (so that you are still looking out the same side of them but the left lens is now over your right eye and right lens is now over your left eye. Now look at the picture. Does it look clearer and better, or more fuzzy and straining to the eye. If it looks worse when flipped then polarity should be normal, otherwise then reversed.

3. Its been answered and discussed several times. Search this thread for all posts by me and you'll find my detailed thoughts on it.
post #2965 of 3559
I just got my 95, ?
Is there a common difict in this PJ to look for ?

ThX
post #2966 of 3559
Quote:
Originally Posted by izez0 View Post

I just got my 95, ?
Is there a common difict in this PJ to look for ?

Sorry, but what's a "difict"? You may want to be more descriptive as to what you're wanting to do if you're looking for people to help.

Kal
post #2967 of 3559
Maybe defect,....I dunno
post #2968 of 3559
Quote:
Originally Posted by sanderdvd View Post

Asked this question a few times now but no one seems to know the answer/have time to respond:
Looking for a detailed guide how to make the custom cable so I can connect my Optoma emitter to my Sony VW95.

Hi,
As I already stated in here, If you need, I can do the cable for you for about $20 shipped
Already made some for other AVS forum members
John
post #2969 of 3559
My VW95 was just ISF calibrated.

A few things:
- I have 2 user profiles now, one for 2D and one for 3D. Am I correct that when switching from user 1 to user 2 profile the RCP profiles do not switch automatically too (from 1 to 2)?
- Sharpness: read a lot about it in this thread. Is it best to keep it at MIN for 3D and 20-30 for 2D?

My settings (feel free if you guys notice any strange things):


User 2D:
Cinema Black Pro: advanced iris auto 1, Lamp control Low
Film Projection: Off
Motion Enhancer: Off (of course prefferable to user)
Contrast 89
Brightness 51
Color 50
Hue 50
Color Temp: custom (Gain -8, 0, -4, Bias 0, 0, -3)
Sharpness: Min
MPEG NR: Off
Film Mode: Off
Gamma Correction: Off
Color Space: Wide 1

User 3D:
Cinema Black Pro: advanced iris off, Lamp control High
Film Projection: Off
Motion Enhancer: Low (of course prefferable to user)
Contrast 90
Brightness 50
Color 50
Hue 50
Color Temp: Low 1
Sharpness: Min
MPEG NR: Off
Film Mode: Off
Gamma Correction: Gamm 4
Color Space: Wide 1

RCP1 (2D):
red -5 2 11
yellow -18 -3 5
green -18 0 22
cyan -21 -1 16
blue 0 0 0
magenta 0 -1 -3

RCP2 (3D):
red 2 0 -8
yellow -17 -8 0
green -15 12 16
cyan -23 4 18
blue 0 0 0
magenta 3 0 -9
post #2970 of 3559
Having problems with my Sony TDG-PJ1 glasses. The sync gets lost from time to time, mostly only for a few miliseconds or so. What could this be?
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
  Return Home
AVS › AVS Forum › Display Devices › Digital Hi-End Projectors - $3,000+ USD MSRP › Official Sony VPL-VW95ES Owners Thread