Official Sony VPL-VW95ES Owners Thread - Page 104

how are you charging them? I've had mine for nearly a year and still holding a charge. I've been using a blackberry charger since the beginning with both pairs.

For the purposes of testing color uniformity, I would recommend something 16:9 which fills the full panel. With a 4:3 image, you will only be testing the center of the panel. You could also use Casablanca and have the projector display it in one of those stretch or zoom modes so that you are using the full width of the panel.

Pip

Aaarrghhh! Trying to get Image Director working is driving me crazy. I have a serial Expresscard and a male-female null modem cable on a laptop running Windows Vista. However, the damn software just will not connect to the projector. Has anyone got any advice?

I've now tried an old PC running XP with a built in serial card and this doesn't work either. I'm going to try a different cable as I've just checked mine and on second thoughts it doesn't look like the right one. See what you think here.

Hello,

I don't see any reason why you didn't manage to connect your PC with your 95ES.
Are you sure your cable is null modem?you have installed your Expresscard with the provided software on your PC?you designated the com. port settings to RS232?

Hello,

I don't think your cable is the right one,you need null modem cable.In my case is F-F cable with the male adapter.
In your case, you have straight cable, you must have a null modem cable.

Hey guys. Trying to get opinions on three different Sony Projectors. The three projectors are the Sony VPL-VW90ES, VPL-VW95ES and VPL-HW30AES. If I'm correct, I think the 30AES is the newest Sony Projector of the three. Firstly, which one of the three has better overall 2D picture quality including motion? Which one has the best overall 3D Picture, such as brightness, crosstalk and ghosting? This is the first time I've ever really considered a projector. I would be coming from a Samsung UN65D8000. Got tired of the uneven screen uniformity as well as not so immersive 3D being on a smaller scale than a projector. Any input would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

This is exactly how I am charging them. One doesn't hold a charge at all. I cant even get it to turn on. The other will work briefly and shut off, but I can get it to work if I keep it plugged in while the movie is playing... which is something I personally can deal with but is silly. Double double bad luck!

This is exactly how I am charging them. One doesn't hold a charge at all. I cant even get it to turn on. The other will work briefly and shut off, but I can get it to work if I keep it plugged in while the movie is playing... which is something I personally can deal with but is silly. Double double bad luck!



The HW30 and the 95ES are the latest two models. One is Sony's low end, the other is Sony's High End model. Technically the 95ES is "newer" as the 30 was available shortly before, but they are two totally different projectors. The 90ES is an older model. The 95 has more features than the 30, like lens memory and upgraded optics, etc. A lot of people really like the HW30 and are perfectly happy with it. A lot of people really like the 95. All of those differences and comparisons have already been made here, I'd suggest doing a bit of thread searching here and you can find a lot of in-depth posts about these two projectors.

Thanks for clarifying that. I know this sounds lazy and I actually have been doing research on all three projectors, but would you happen to know which of the three has better 3D? I'm looking for the brightest picture with the least amount of ghosting and crosstalk. Thanks

Hi. You were right. The cable wasn't null modem. I bought an adapter for my female-female null modem cable and it works. I've re-calibrated now and have a great flat 2.4 gamma. The picture quality has gone up another notch now. Superb! I particularly love being able to use the Image Director software to tweak the greyscale. I had a red tint to blacks that bothered me before but with just the 2 point greyscale controls couldn't do much about. Now it's all gone .

The VW95 and HW30 are definately better in 3D. The HW30 has 1300 lumens, so it is a bit brighter. However, the VW95 has much better blacks (apparently, i haven't seen it myself yet) and is still fairly bright in 3D. Both

What kind of screen are you getting?

Hi,Canary
I am glad that you made it.Indeed is a different animal with full calibration.
I also like very much with gamma on 2.3

Thanks for the info. I'm still fairly new when it comes to projectors. What would you recommend as a good screen for 3D with the 95ES? Will it be expensive?

JewDaddy

No, the 95ES arrived last( newest ), before that the 30ES and first the 90ES


1:2D - thats easy - no contest : the 95ES, then the 90ES , and "worst" 30ES ( its actully very good , just not up to the two others )
2: the best 3D overall picture: the 95ES ( the black level and dynamic in the picture beats the second : 30ES - worst 90ES
3: most brightness : the 30ES, then 95Es and worst 90ES
4: At least ghosting/crosstalk - I will say the race is close between the 30and the 95ES - If I have to pick a winner, I will say the 30ES - the 90ES really sucks there

BTW I have tested all three projectors in my HT and have own the 90ES and do own the 95ES now ( and are very happy with it - just dream about a 1000ES ).

IMO if you have the cash and dont go for a extreme big screen, you will never regret buying the 95ES it is the best overall projector, for the money right now at all if you ask me ( and no, its NOT because I own it self , but because it do everthing very good and have allmost none weaknesses )

- if you want the biggest screen or brightest 3D and wants to save money, take the 30ES.

If you dont care about 3D and want to save money - buy a used 90ES ( and yes the 2D in it is better then the 30ES IMO )

Just my 2 cent

dj

I played around with the service menu Closed Reg setting and I am currently convinced that there are only two iris positions and that they are fixed. One is fully open and the other closed to some fixed point. I took my Closed Reg value from 313 to 0 but the full screen background of 0 IRE did not get any darker. The brightness of the displayed menu got darker but that could be explained by a gamma change. This was done in a bat cave so there was no stray light to artificially raise the background. Also the first item in the service menu only has 0 or 1 for the two positions of the iris.

I believe that the "trick" to Sony's superior DI is that it constantly changes the gamma dynamically to give the illusion of a DI in motion but with only the two positions it also allows significant overlap to prevent the need to constantly change between the two positions. It also allows for all but pure black and brightest whites to remain nearly the same brightness as the iris closes because it can remap their brightness constantly during transition, minimizing its appearance. The reverse is possible as the iris opens. Only if a scene was constantly changing back and forth from full bright to full dark would pumping be necessary except I think Sony would just leave the iris on open.

I believe the Open Reg and Closed Reg parameters are only for some interesting gamma mapping formula based upon the image IRE and if the brightness and contrast are set correctly, only 17-234 actually change brightness. 16 and less will always be darkest possible (assuming iris on closed position) and 235+ will be brightest white (assuming iris in open position). The lower the Closed Reg value is set, the darker the 17-234 pixels become when the iris is in the "closed" position, making the overall image darker.

The brightness and contrast settings work the same way. I was viewing a test pattern with 0-24 values where 16 is reference black. At a brightness of 50 (default), 16 and below all appeared the same with 17+ getting progressively brighter. Setting the brightness to 0 did not make 0-16 any darker, it just made 17-24 become the same as 16 (black crush). Boosting brightness above 50 made 16 and progressively lower visible by boosting their brightness (i.e. gamma mapping). The same thing happens with contrast. The default of 90 has 235 and higher appear white. Boosting the contrast higher did not brighten 235, it just made 230-234 the same as 235 (crushed white).

So if you really really want darker pure black on the 95ES, you would need to use a neutral density filter and then play with the Open/Closed Reg values to compensate appropriately.

I received the two pair of MonsterVision 3D glass kits I ordered. After playing around with them quite a bit, I do not find them to be brighter by any real difference once I have spent the time to adjust them to an equivalent level of ghosting compared to the Sony glasses. They do seem to pass a little more blue through so an image with a lot of blue does appear slightly brighter. I use a setting of 3 for the Sony glasses. Max increases crosstalk too much for the small increase in brightness but then I don't have a problem with the brightness anyway. I don't understand how people find them to be so much better than the Sony glasses when it comes to performance. Reading a bunch of threads, owners of the 95 didn't seem to think Delay made any difference so I just played with Duty Cycle. Maybe I just don't have the proper settings but right now increasing brightness increases crosstalk too much.

Ergonomically for fit I prefer the MV because they are lighter and the ear pieces don't crush the side of my head. I can't get through a 3D movie using the Sony glasses without having to move them up and down the side of my head every so often to a new position. However the button to turn them on is quite poor with no tactile feedback that you actually turned them on and it is difficult to push in the micro USB cable. Also while watching Tron 3D with my 11yo son, he asked me "Are these glasses supposed to make noise?" I put them up to my ear and I heard the buzz. Now I can hear the buzz on my own glasses during very quiet scenes, which previously I thought was some background noise. Ignorance was bliss.

I do like that they have an incredible amount of adjustment available to trade off brightness and crosstalk. I favor minimizing crosstalk over brighter image and the result of my best settings is effectively equivalent to the Sony glasses on 3.

Hello Everybody,

I need your help, I have pair 3D glasses (TDG-BR250), I read that these glasses can works with the Sony VPL-VW95 projector via polarizing filters on the glasses lens.
the built in glasses that came with the projector (TDG-PJ1) works without any problem.

please let me know where can i found and buy the polarizing filters for the TDG-BR250 glasses?

Thanks,

This is the filter kit you'll need. 1 order per pair of glasses (kit will have 2 filters included)

https://www.servicesplus.sel.sony.co...45839511.aspx#

Thanks !!

I decided to pull the trigger and upgrade from a HW30 to the VW95. While I liked the 3D performance of the HW30, I was never fully satisfied with 2D performance and in my head kept thinking my previous proj (Pioneer FPJ1) had more "pop" due to its higher native contrast.

I was nervous as to whether or not I'd really notice a difference with the VW95 over the HW30 and happily I can with the standard settings right out of the box before any calibration. 2D images seem much more in line with what my "memory" told me I was previously enjoying, and 3D actually looked much better than the HW30. That was probably the biggest surprise as I kept playing a few scenes from Hugo over and over utterly stunned how much better it seemed than on the HW30. Is this possible or am I just fooling myself that the 95 has better 3D performance? I used the Monster glasses with the 30 as well as now on the 95.

One other very exciting discovery is that the 95 performs differently (better) on my high gain screen than the HW30. It's a 2.5 gain Draper that with the HW30 had the color shifting issue on both sides of the screen that others have experienced when viewing 3D (it didn't happen on 2D content), but with the 95 this effect doesn't occur with 3D. Nothing changed with my mounting height/position, so is it a different lens that has alleviated this issue? Whatever it is I'm very pleased.

So my initial reaction after one night with the VW95 is a "wow" with no regrets!

Hey Jay,

In you eyes, how much better is the VW95 in contrast and sharpness compared to the HW30? I didn't expect the 3D to be better, expecially since the HW30 is brighter.

finally pulled the trigger and ordered a VW95ES from AVS before the SURE pricing kick in tomorrow. This will replace my 8yr old 720p Sony VPL-HS20. Screen is the original 2.8 HP, should be a huge step up.

I have my VW95 now for about six months and i have to say there's still nothing I'm unhappy about it! The VW95 is my 5th pj and the first one I haven't found anything after a while that i wished better or different. I'm still very courious about the coming next generation!

How are the lamps doing with this projector? Does anybody have any problems with sudden lamp dimming or lamp explosions like the current JVCs?

Not here.These lamps are fantastic,i can't believe that i have almost the same measurements like when was new.I have about 350 hours.

That's very good to know. I have maybe 70hrs on mine. Glad the lamp is holding up unlike the jvc lamps

Same here...had been watching since late 2011. Got sidetracked with other things but ordered 5/30. Scheduled to arrive next Tuesday. Replacing a 4 year-old VPL-VW60...

Sorry for my delayed response. It's hard for me to say how much better the VW95 is in contrast and sharpness, but it's definitely noticeable and enough for me to feel it justified the purchase. I was just never quite satisfied with the contrast on the HW30 and this seems to fill the gap. Don't expect 100% improvement... maybe more like 10%.

As for 3D, I do still believe the 95 is better despite the 30 being brighter. Perhaps its related to the increased contrast and sharpness, but I really can't say.