Official Sony VPL-VW95ES Owners Thread - Page 107

No problem.

As you can "see" I am still a big fan of the Darblet. The degree of sharpness added definitely increases the eye candy look of your display. It elevates all levels to come close or match models above them.

Hello,

Darbelt is available on AVS?

Thanks

Yes. Should be getting a new shipment in soon.

Excellent!!

Mike

Guys, I have a couple of questions, that I think only you pros can answer.

Little background.
I thow a 92" picture from ~9ft, PJ is almost at max zoom.
I dont have a batcave.
Source is Bluray from my HTPC
KMplayer-Madvr renderer, LAV decoder.
Nvidia GFX card

I do want the darkest black out of this projector. When calibrating brightness, to be able to see level 17, I have to pump the brightness to 55~. This also brighteners the ref black(16) in the whole image. And strangely, level 17 looks darker than 16?
So right now I use 53. I can barely see 18 flashing, but 17 is the same as 16.
They way I see it, I would like a brightness of 48-49, which gives the darkest black the PJ can produce, but still be able to see the slightest details in dark scenes.

For reference I use "Casino Royale" at 00:01:16, the scene where the bad guy turns around and Bond is sitting on the chair. I look for Bonds tie and collar.

Then I started to mess with the gamma presets.
Gamma 1 gave me almost what I wanted. Bonds details in the scene where visible, had brightness at 49, but then changed to Cinema 1 to see the difference on a bright scene with colors, and wow, Cinema 1 (Brightness 50, Gamma 9) )was way better, not so flat as with Gamma 1), but, the details disappeared.

So am I totally nuts? and want something that is not possible, or do I need to tweak more.

Right now Im settled with Cinema 1, Iris 1, Brightness 53, Contrast 89, Gamma 9, Blk level -1.
Great picture overall, I see bonds details but I wonder if its possible to do that with a lower brightness, so I can get the darkest black of this PJ.

Professional calibration to get a custom gamma curve maybe?

Hello,

There is someone using Darbee with VPL-VW95ES for blu-ray.I want to know if is some benefits using in this configuration because in this way i will use it exclusively.
Thanks

John, I would simply recommend using the settings in the middle of page 100 of this thread. I've tried them all, Projector Review's, Home Theater's, JoeRod's and a few others on this thread (and absolutely no disrespect to any of them), but those settings on page 100 are the very best that I have experienced, to date. They were made on a 1.0 gain screen and my screen is a 1.3 gain, so I don't know how that translates to how you or I should slightly adjust our settings to compensate for screen gain differences, but the results of those exact settings are spectacular to me.
I've had the projector for about two months now and I'm stll amazed by the picture every day. And I came from an eight year old DWIN TransVision 3+, which cost twice the price of the 95ES in its day, but couldn't hold a (foot) candle to its picture. There are also mixed reviews on the sharpness/focus of the Sony projector, too, but again speaking only from my own experience, mine is close to the sharpest picture I have ever seen on ANY display, period. (This again, for a theoretical comparison, coming from a single-chip DLP with a Zeiss lens on it.) Looking forward to picking up a "DD Barbie" soon to kick the sharpness up one more notch, as well, if that's even possible.
Hope you enjoy the projector!

I just changed lamp for the first time, and am experiencing something odd.

I am using my VW95ES with a 65" screen, and the projector is quite close (small room, welcome to England ). When I first got the 95ES I had to turn the manual iris down as much as possible to get it anything other than retina searingly bright for the first 100 hours or so.

With this "new" lamp, things are quite dim from the off. I'd say it's around the same on "low" as it was on my 2600 hour lamp I replaced on "high". Perhaps even a smidge less bright.

Should I be concerned?

Cheers

Jonathan

I might be yes. Where did you get the lamp? If you had 2600 hours on that last one, this new one should be quite a bit brighter...

I got it from http://www.theplasmacentre.com

To clarify, I am now running in "low" lamp mode and it is roughly as bright (maybe a fraction less) when compared to the old lamp at 2600 hours on "high"

What is really concerning me is I expected to have to run the projector for at least 100 hours before it would be even close to dim enough to watch comfortably.

Just a smidge worried......

CDJay

Seems like it is an OEM. Did you try running it in high for an apples to apples comparison?

Yea it was in high by default and was a *bit* brighter than I remember it.... which you'd really kinda hope for when it's 0 vs 2600 hours!!!

Jonathan

Man that still just doesn't seem right. It should be fairly noticeable...

Admittedly, I'm just getting into this whole 24p thing but - when I feed a 24p signal to the projector, I can see very noticble "flickering," especially in bright scenes. Obviously the refresh rate is considerably slower than a 60p signal but are others seeing this noticable flicker when using a 24p signal/refresh rate? Does it not bother anyone?

It bothers me enough to stick to a 60p signal with 3:2 pulldown... (assuming I'm understanding that part right).

It is somewhat personal. That "matches" what film does in essence. If you go to a theater with a film projector...watch it closely. You will notice the same basic effect. Myself, depends on the specific movie if I like it.

I think I'll talk to the supplier tomorrow and note my concerns. It really can't be a new and properly functioning lamp. It's barely bright enough as it is, which considering I'm so close and on such a small screen is insane!

Cheers for the nudge towards harassing supplier

CDJay

I noticed the same thing in the VW1000. I expect it's more noticeable with a brighter image.

On the 1000, enabling the mode that does black frame insertion (I've forgotten the name of this setting, sorry) made it substantially better, but also darker.

Fwiw, I noticed the same on a SIM2 C3X 1080, and simply switched to 60p input.

Glad I'm not alone with this... I feel like I'm trying to "force" myself to like it since it's more correct, but I'm not sure I can get over that. I tried some scenes from Casino Royale, particularly the card dealing part around 1hr 10m where the camera pans on the table - even on 24p, it looks pretty bad; so I turned on motion flow (low) and looked better (which kind of seems pointless to have 24p and motion flow on). Switched back to 1080p/60 signal - looked close to 24p w/out motion flow; turned on motion flow on low again, and it just instantly looked better.

For me , 1080p/60 w/motion flow Low simply looks way better at this point for this comparison, at the expense of a few artifiacts here and there. Maybe I'm just overly sensitive to flicker...

Internal test patterns?

Does anyone recall if the Sony has any interest test patterns, and if so, how to access them? I want to check them against similar patterns output by my Radiance to do some troubleshooting. Its been a long time since I looked for that and it may be obvious when I go looking, but just in case its not, I thought I'd ask. Thanks.

It has test patterns but are extremely useless. Very fuzzy and useless for convergence and setting focus. There's a toggle somewhere in the menu for turning the pattern on or off. When on, I think they come on when you start changing focus.
But what are interest test pattens?

For hdtv, 1080i sources, has anyone found significant improvements by feeding this pj a 1080p from 1080i  from a lumagen/dvdo/hqv vida video processor?

maybe somebody can help me!?

I have now 700h on this great machine and yesterday suddenly the projector went from ON into the STANDBY mode with flashing LAMP/COVER lit. I can remember that I read this here but I don't know what was the root cause and if this means that the projector is now ready for the Professional Service:) ?

After a while I could start the projector again, but 10 minutes later the same thing happened. After I removed the power cable and plugged in, I'm now able to watch without this issue but I only tried a half hour?

Has anybody any suggestions in regards this?

Thanks
S.

Two things that it might be: The lamp cover may simply be loose or not seated all the way. This happened to me once. If you removed the power cable from the projector (as opposed to the wall outlet), you may have jarred the lamp cover contacts back into place. It also may be a problem with your lamp. If you don't have a spare I would get one right away.

Pip

Nevermind. Problem solved..
Edited by Drem - 9/23/12 at 4:44am

Is this model still relevant? Kindly check my thread: http://www.avsforum.com/t/1430014/why-the-old-vpl-vw95es

I would say it depends on the price.   If you can get it for much under $5K, I think it would be a very good choice.   As many have discussed, the Sony 95 is somewhat intermediate between the JVC's and the dlp's:   i.e., its o/f CR is not as good as JVC's, but is much better than dlp's, and its performance with sports, etc., is usually described as more dynamic than JVC is, closer to dlp.    It would thus be a good general purpose pj.

 

But as several noted in your thread, to get the best out of any of these you really need to think about your room.    No pj is going to look good if your room is flooded with external light.    And in a very good room, even a relatively inexpensive pj can be very impressive.

Hi, folks!

I´ve been following this thread for a while now, and I´m pretty much convinced that the VW95ES is the right projector for me. However, the new Panasonic AE8000 is out there, with a bunch of new features and a higher contrast ratio than its predecessor. How do you think it compares to this Sony?

Thanks in advance!
Edited by dreyfusfabrini - 9/21/12 at 11:45am

@ lovingdvd
With some rumours stating that the FI of the new Sony HW50ES no longer introduces artifacts where artifacts where visible on the HW30.....is there a possibility to upgrade the FI of the 95? Or does Sony use an upgraded hardware on the HW50?

I use my video processor DVDO to output 1080P to my projector from all sources. In theory it is not technically difficult to deinterlace 1080i so most projectors should to a good job but a Lumagen, DVDO or other video processors should do better.