Official Sony VPL-VW95ES Owners Thread - Page 110

"better buy" versus "better projector" are two different questions. I think you can only answer the first one. Ine stand out to me in particular is that cine4home measured the on/off of the VW50 calibrated at about 6,000:1, whereas I get about 9,000-10,000:1 calibrated on the VW95. With this in mind it is highly likely that the VW95 has a distinct advantage in black level. The 50 however has Reality Creation so that's very nice from what I understand, whereas I pair my VW95 with a Darbee which provides much of the same type of benefit.

Yes, I meant better projector as in better PQ. The extra lumens from the 50es and the RC (and lower price point) seems attractive. Perhaps when the new 95es+ is announced, the prior model will drop in price. Will wait and see.

HELP,

I have an old Panny AE700 which my son uses for gaming. I am projecting onto a 120" 16:9 screen and sitting at around 11 ft. Room totally dark with dark walls. After reading post after post after post I have come down to either :

A) B stock Sony VW95 with Darbee plus or minus keeping Panny for sons gaming

B) JVC 4810 and keeping Panny for sure with darbee

C) Less likely Blowout With JVC 56 with Darbee

I am on the list for both the Sony and the 4810 and when one of them comes in it will be decision time. Unfortunately there is nowhere for me to see these projectors locally.

I do not know if I care about 3D as I have little experience. Seems cool but is it a fad/gimmick? My family avoids all 3D at the theater.

Any feedback would be greatly appreciated. I am not a fanatic and spend almost zero time tweaking after setup so I likely would be happy with any of the above. I am mostly interested in the best setup for movie watching. I also watch a couple of football games a week.

which would be best for video setup and calibration----my sony 95es front projector or my new oppo103 bluray player

One question, does a sharpness setting of 0(min) result in no sharpening at all or does it blur the image? I want to apply no sharpening by the PJ but also avoid the contrary.

Thanks,
N.

Find a test pattern with white boxes against a black background and visa versa (or even just text): When adjusting the sharpness look to see if a contrasting line appears around the edge of the boxes or text. I found with my projector (JVC HD350) that even one click up from 0 would start to add this effect. IMHO it isn't sharpness it's just an 'etching' type line around the edge of objects to give the perception of more sharpness. However, some displays do differ and a zero setting can cause softening, hence the need to check.

Hello,

Does anybody knows about the 95ES successor?I just sold mine, in case that something is around the corner.
I am sure my dealer will make me a good offer for the new JVC....but the priority is the new Sony, if is coming.In the mean time i just put back my old JVC HD750.
Edited by maximus74 - 11/30/12 at 12:26am

Brand new owner here, just posting my first day thoughts on the VW95. I had ordered a B-Stock VW95 from AVS and it seemed like forever, but i finally got it:D

i am not an expert projector user, but i have gone through several TVs. I currently own a Sony HW30 which i really like, but i felt lacks a little in black levels. My setup is a VW95ES and a 133" 16x9 da-lite 2.4 hi power screen. I have my projector mounted high above, at about 6'5; not ideal for the hi power screen, i know, but i am still getting something like 1.8 gain in my center seat, and 1.4-1.5 for my side seats.

first impressions, wow, it is quite a bit larger than the HW30. Definately wider. Hanging it up is easy since i already had the HW30 up there, and getting everything set up... OMG now i see why everyone wants motorized zoom/focus/shift. The HW30 was so finicky and took a lot of work to get perfect. This beast, not so much. About 3-4 minutes and i'm ready to go.

First impressions, holy, this thing seems very sharp. My HW30 was set at 40-50 to get a very sharp picture. When i check what the VW95 is at, only set at 10! really? much much sharper. Also, when i would use my HW30 and my PC, the focus with text on the screen was never uniform. The left side was always out, or the right side was always out. This thing seems perfect. Sharp text all across the screen.

Black levels are a revelation. Its hard to describe, but i'd say that the picture is much more "real". The HW30 is like a mid tier LCD where the VW95 is more like a good plasma in comparison. Black levels are much better, not that the HW30 was bad, but the black bars literally disappear when there is a bright or dim scene. The only time i see that the blacks aren't 100% black is in very very low brightness scenes (harry potter deathly hallows part one) but it is as black as you can get i think, other than OLED. It actually looks darker than my samsung c7000 plasma. When i have game mode on, i have the iris disabled, and the blacks are so much better than the HW30 without the iris, it's crazy. Blacks are not hazy gray but BLACK.

3D seems to pop more too, and i don't understand why. Maybe the contrast, but everything seems more, well, 3d.

Overall I am VERY impressed with the upgrade. With AVS pricing on these things, you can't go wrong. This should tide me over until the 4K projectors are reasonable prices, have content available, and can accept a 60 hertz signal.

i was worried that i wouldn't be able to spot the difference in PQ, but i was very wrong.

Well that is good to hear. AVS will be shipping my 95 today and I too will be replacing a HW30. Although my HW30 has an excellent picture, focus is perfect all across the screen(7' wide). As for the blacks I don't get the grey-bluish blacks people seem to be talking about. I've reset the iris control in the service menu to give the best black performance as well as cal'd the projector using my i1pro and actually think it looks very good. Of course it doesn't do fade to black like my CRT use to do but pretty damn good.

I'm curious how much you sold your HW30 for as now I have to sell mine, although I'm in Canada and I purchased it in Canada so I'm sure the pricing will be somewhat higher here, could you pm me on that, thanks.

How much brightness did you lose going from the HW30 to the VW95? And what setting did you lose the lamp on for each projector (low/high)?

I stil have to sell my HW30 too. Since my VW95 is B stock, i think i'll hold on to the 30 for about a month just to be sure the VW95 is going to work well.

I didn't notice the blacks being NOT BLACK unless it was a scene with a bright object and very dark at the same time, like the Joker interrogation scene in The Dark Knight.
Then i noticed the blacks were grey. but the 95 looks way way better in these scenes. Also, the contrast in any scene is definately improved and gives the pic a more "real" look, for lack of a better word. Prob sell my 30 for around $2000. I'm canadian too.

Actually, from what i've played with it, the 95 doesn't look dimmer at all to my eye. I used the HW30 and the VW95 on low lamp. Doesn't seem dim at all IMO

How many hours on your HW30?

I'd probably settle for less than 2Gs, as i have about 2000 hours on mine. Lots of movies and gaming. I guess you could say i'm an enthusiast LOL:D

2K, wow, I think I have about 520hrs. I'm not sure what to ask for it, it's been cal'd, I did it myself with myi1pro and it looks great. Where do you live?

Out of curiosity how many hours did your B stock VW95 have on the lamp when you received it? It didn't come with 3D glasses did it?

Heads-up If you live in Canada Futureshop has a special on their Sony PS3 3D universal glasses. Only $19.99, I tested them with my 95ES and was amazed they actually worked. Chance of a lifetime to get multiple pairs of Active Shutter glasses for Sony projectors at such a great price.

Awesome! Thanks for that - I'm off to buy a handful right now!

Are these cheaper glasses any good?

They're fair. For $20, they're great for company. They have about a million in stock, so there doesn't appear to be a hurry to rush out and get them. I got mine at Best Buy.

They feel very cheaply made compared to the Sony or Xpand ones, but they're quite light-weight, and recharge via USB. They're relatively comfortable as well. The arms have good flex, and the nosepiece is rubber (just one size though).

Most importantly, they worked well, with no increase in ghosting - if anything there seemed to be a very slight decrease in ghosting off-axis. Brightness and colour are very similar.

I wouldn't recommend these for kids (or even pea-headed adults like me) for use with a bigger screen, because the lenses are even farther apart than with the regular Sony glasses (or the Xpands) - 25mm it appears, compared to about 21mm on the bundles Sony ones, and even less on the ol' Xpand 103's. So people with smaller spacing between their pupils will have the inside edges blacked out on either eye with these if they're in the front row. They're too wide for me to use in the front row.

After playing with 3D all afternoon, I'm still using my old Xpands (103) as my go-to set, which still don't fit well but give me the best results with my pea-head. I need some kid glasses...

[edit]

According to my (not very accurate) Ikea kitchen scale:

Bundled Sony - 57g
Xpand 103 - 53g
Sony PS3 - 46g
.
Edited by Fat Dave - 12/1/12 at 4:55pm

I tried using the film projection mode under motionflow, and as everyone here stated, flicker on bright objects became very obvious. So what I did was set my bd player to output at 60p instead of 24p, and now when i e enable the filmI have a very sharp, ultra smooth pic without the side effects of motionflow. Sharpness and clarity is definately better than without it. Anyone else try this?

Are you combining this with motionflow?

I have 2 saved picture modes that use it, i set cinema 1 so that it does cinema motion mode 1 and also uses motionflow on low, and standard that uses cinema motion mode 1 and no motionflow. I prefer the standard honestly, it doesn't look as smooth as motionflow, but it does look very cinematic without the LCD- type judder. It makes the motion more like a plasma. But if the blu ray is left to play in 24p, there is obvious flicker. So 60p it is!
Edited by whitetrash66 - 12/2/12 at 11:48am

Well, it goes against my better judgement since it's doing 3:2 (which normally looks horrible to me), but I'll give it a try.

but after football...

I thought since sony uses 240 hertz panels, there would be no pulldown? I'm fuzzy on this though

Your source would still be converting the original content. Your source will blast out the 24 Hz content at 60 Hz, which means flashing the first frame three times, then the second frame twice, then the third frame three times, then the fourth frame twice, etc, etc. So that's what your projector will receive.

If you enable motionflow, then there will be some interpolation frames created.

I'm having some 3D glasses issues. I was hoping someone could point me in the right troubleshooting direction??

I'll also add that I have resisted 3D until today as I don't particularly enjoy gimmicks where someone or something is always trying to poke my eye out.... But, initial impressions are that I wish I wouldn't have been so stubborn. The image on my one and only 3D blu-ray (John Carter) is quite impressive...

I am using a Lumagen XS. Part of the resistance to 3D was I didn't want to spend the $500 to get the 3D upgrade key. Damn that hurt.

So anyway, every time I move my head up or down, the image goes all whacky. I think that possibly my HE lens might be interfering with the emitter, but I don't know exactly where it is. Could that be part of the problem? If there a remote emitter available, assuming the lens is in the way?

Also, I need some more glasses. It looks like the Monster vision glasses are the ones to get. $70 a peice seams pretty expensive to me, are they worth it?? When you buy the "kit", do you only get one pair of glasses with the emiter?

Yes, you can get an external emitter from sony. You will have to run a phone cable (whatever its called) from the projector to where you want the emitter to go.

If you get the monsters (which IMO are much better than the sonys for this projector), then make sure you get at least one pair with the emitter. The cool thing about the monsters is that they are RF so there isn't any problem with interference or glasses flickering once you get them up and working. Worth the money IMO

Be careful of the Monster Vision glasses. There's a sizeable bad batch out there and no one currently knows how to identify which ones are from the bad batch and which ones aren't, aside from buying and trying.

The good ones will hold a charge for a decently long period (up to months if they aren't being used). The bad ones will go flat from a 'full' charge within 2-3 weeks in the same conditions (not being used). If this is a concern for you, make sure that you get them from someplace with a good return/refund policy.


Max

I found the MV glasses thread. There does apear to be some issues with the battery and MV is no longer making the glasses. Not sure if I want to head down the road of no product support.

What would be the next best choice for RF glasses?. I think I would like glasses with a larger frame that does not reduce brightness too much.