Official Sony VPL-VW95ES Owners Thread - Page 15

I currently have a VW85 with a HP110 screen... Would I see a big difference in 2D with the VW95ES (Sharper, better black, color accuracy...) ???

I'm working on getting my 95ES setup. I'm coming from an 1999 Sony D50 CRT projector. On the D50, the unit displayed numeric values as you played with the positioning controls. The 95ES doesn't seem to that. Is there a way to turn on the display of numeric values for lens shift? If not, is there a way to reset the unit so the lens shift is centered both vertically and horizontally? I'm trying to get the PJ physically aligned as best I can before resorting to electronic controls.

He, he... I am in the same boat. Look at my forum join date . My D50 still runs strong, nice picture too.

My apologies. I have a difficult time understanding all this without the projector in front of me (and I was hoping to have everything in hand when the projector arrives.)
What you're saying is that without the TMR-PJ1 external emitter (which is an
additional $80 or so) - and an RJ45 splitter ($10 or so at Radio Shack or the like) we can't use both the Optoma/Monster and Sony glasses.
Is anything else required - and is the configuration of all this fairly straightforward? (I expect this answer resides in this thread somewhere.)

I'm also interested in a comparison of the Optoma and Monster glasses.
It seems the "ghost removal" feature works equally well with both, but are they equally comfortable?

Ok, spent some time trying to calibrate tonight, and it took a while, partly because I've come to know there is a bug in the current Chromapure software that can whack out some readings off the lens - fix should be coming soon, so this is warts and all. Calibration was all automated with the DVDO Duo, off the lens, no manual tweaking at this point.

95es was set to auto iris, contrast of 80, brightness/color 50, tint centered, sharpness 10, color temp Low 1, and Gamma off.

Thrang,

How about some pics of 2D material (blu-ray preferably) with the lights off please? I know that pics are not the best representation picture quality, but it will give us an idea of what kind of image this projector can put out.

Oh and by the way, did you get my PM?

Perhaps tomorrow or Tuesday - have to break out the tripod...

Thrang - calibration results look pretty solid. Assuming Chromapure supports automated calibration in 5% steps I'd recommend doing that. Its surprising some times what can be going on in between those 10% steps. Also I am wondering if the calibration results can be even tighter via manual calibration.

Well, I finally got my projector installed and screen. This is the first projector I have ever owned and hole CRAP!! I am blown away by the picture. I have it set up with a 106" BD screen.

3D is absolutely EPIC!

I do have one issue... I can't get the Sony BR50 (kids) glasses to work. They turn on but and the flashing lights say they are communicating but they are not working. Are there any compatibility issues with this? Had to tie a string through the larger glasses so they fit my kids. I'm going to call sony tomorrow but if anyone has an answer that would be great.

Watched RIO, MegaMind and Imax Under the Sea. Just amazing!!

Has anyone had a chance to try the 2D->3D conversion yet? I use this fairly often, particularly for football games, on my Samsung plasma and its works pretty well. Hopefully the Sony is just as good if not better.

Yah, the first PJ experience can be dramatic. A lot of people don't realize that a bigger image and immersion makes the PQ better. Kind of like the difference between standing on top of a mountain and looking around in a panoramic view, or with a TV just looking at a mountain range in the distance 50 miles away and seeing some tiny little triangular thing.

Its been a long time since I calibrated a pj with a dynamic iris (Sony Ruby), but from what I've heard its best to do the calibration with the DI turned off. Not sure if this had any impact on your calibration or if so how much though.

DUDO does not support 5%, so 10% is as best as he can do.


Definitely turn DI off when you calibrate. You can turn it back on after, but turning DI ON when you are doing GAMMA measurement is going to be wrong. Your DI is likely going to change the light level between 0% and 100%, so your GAMMA measurement with DI on is not meaningful, as you are not really measuring the difference in light output on a "frame"/scene (with a fixed IRIS opening). You should turn DI off (set at manual, probably low to mid), then calibrate... Assuming the projector GAMMA behave more or less the same as different IRIS opening, turning DI back ON should help you reach a good GAMMA for every "frame".. which is what you are looking for.
I had made the same mistake and had been educated by the knowledgeable folks here.. So, just passing on the knowledge here.
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1283979

Did you remember to put on the addional filters ? ( they dont work without these )

dj

No problem
Not exactly

- With MonsterVision 3D glasses set you will get the IR receiver cable that let you catch the 3D IR sync signal sent by the VW90/95ES projector and translate this IR sync signal to RF through the MV dongle to drive the RF glasses (either MV or Optoma glasses !). With MV kit, no need to have this converter cable *IF* you're planning to use both RF and Sony IR glasses.

- With Optoma 3D RF kit, you will not get the IR receiver cable option and you will have to use our special converter cable to drive the RF glasses through the Optoma Dongle. Because this converter cable is linked to the VW90/95ES projector, the projector internal IR emiter is desactivated and then, IF you wanna keep to use the Crappy Sony glasses, you'll need an external TMR-PJ1 emitter and a RJ 45 "Y" splitter


Yes, the glasses of both brands works very well equally becausec in fact, they are exactly the same (just different branding...)

FYI, Both MV and Optoma RF dongle allow you to adjust the 3D timings to match the projector 3D speed. So, I would suggest Optoma brand as their kit is far cheaper than MV...

John

P.S. For those who wanna try this special converter cable, contact me through MP, I'm building a batch of those...

Hate to ask the obvious but do you have new batteries or are they older or purchased in bulk from somewhere? I did that once and only 2 out of a 10 pack actually worked!

I had tried calibrating with the iris on manual a few times as well, but did not get as good results. However, the sensor was closer than my final attempt for the evening, and the iris was set at 75.

So I can try again at the further distance and a lower manual iris.

Are you suggesting doing the gamma first with manual iris, then greyscale and cms afterward with DI on? Or everything with DI off?

I'll also do an off the screen measurement as the Duo bug apparently is only affecting off the lens readings.

Does anyone know if the lumagen mini supports 5% steps natively and in conjunction with Chromapure's automated calibration processes?

Thanks

I am glad to hear that you are so pleased. These are high marks and I know that you are picky.

I know that you intend to do some kind of comparison. I am very interested in what you think of the Sony as compared to your JVC RS50 when it comes to 2D film viewing. I mostly watch film so that is my focus. I am not concerned about 3D.

You give black levels and bright corners 8 out of 10. For film, these are areas that concern me. If there is a fade to black and I see bright corners, that would be a non-starter for me. I also want better black levels than I have so I am undecided about buying a projector where I move sideways or backward int his area.

Also, the CMS seems to be okay in the same way that the RS50's CMS seems to be okay. I don't know if you are up to it or if you have the time, but I wonder if you could check saturation tracking and also color tracking at different stimulus levels. Then we could see what is really going on. Chromapure allows you to do this pretty easily.

You give shadow detail only an 8 out of 10 also. This is mostly a function of gamma. Here, the dynamic iris also must play a role too. I am confident that with the right gamma settings that you will be able to get shadow detail how you want it to be.

Yes. It does.

I would think that it is best to calibrate with the DI on if you intend to use the DI. If you don't you are not reallly calibrating what you are going to see on the screen.

It is likely that I am overlooking something in thinking this.

I owned a projector with a DI a long time ago and I did not calibrate at that time.

Shadow detail is primarily gamma like you said and native contrast affects it too, but one other point is that I have seen Noise Reduction algorithms affect shadow detail on some projectors, as they seem to get flakier in dark scenes, also banding and some other stuff can affect shadow detail, not that this projector has any of those issues, just saying.

Thrang, any fringing on the VW95? how is the DFI (film projection mode) when combined with the FI? I found the combination of the two gave the best motion I've seen.

You were critical of the 3D and Motion with the VW90. Have both those aspects been improved with the VW95?

thanks.

Thanks for the tips.

My batteries are brand new but I didn't try different filters. I have some that I ordered from Sony but the guy said only use them if I see ghosting. I don't see anything so I will have to try it out. I will try swapping out the filters tonight.

I have tried the 2D-3D conversion for the nascar race yesterday and it's not as impressive as true 3D in my opinion. I preferred to watch the race in 2D. I did have the glasses on for 6 hours so it was nice to have them off. They are really comfortable though!

Hi John.

AV SCIENCE has been getting emails from customers in France asking if we sell the the converter cable to allow the Optoma emitter to be used with Sony 3D projectors. I don't think they understand that this is a DIY project and that the cable you designed is not manufactured or sold anywhere. The Optoma emitter will not work with the Sony without it.

I am a little unclear. Will the Monster Vision emitter work with the Sony with the cable supplied with the Sony? I do understand that the Monster emitter unlike the Optoma emitter can receive IR from an IR emitter and convert it to an RF signal.


Please be all adviced. We do not manufacture or sell the cable that John designed and the Optoma emitter can not be used wih the Sony's without a DIY cable such as John has designed. If I have this wrong, please correct me and I will edit.

And another point I wanted to make is that full field patterns (as opposed to "windows") should be used for the calibration. This is particularly true if the DI is on (although I still think the DI should be off). Since you are using automated calibration, it should be easy to try to calibrate it both ways (DI on and off) and save each calibration into different presets. Then do some A/B tests while viewing to see which calibration you like best.

Mark - I have not tried the Optoma IR/RF emitter but I would be HIGHLY surprised if it did not work identically to the Monster emitter. As I have stated before, I have used the Monster IR/RF emitter to talk to the Optoma glasses just fine. And the pictures of the Optoma IR/RF emitter make it look identical to the Monster emitter except for labeling/branding.

Mark,AVS

Do you sell and send the MonsterVision MAX 3D Eyewear System
to Europe ?


dj

Everything I've read in every projector thread says to calibrate with the Dynamic Iris completely turned off. It seems confusing, because like you said, you aren't calibrating what you will be seeing, but if you have the DI on, the image is constantly changing, thus you have no constant test platform to do your calibration. The purpose of the calibration is to make sure everything is set correctly at a uniform level. Then, once you have that, you can turn your DI back on if you want to adjust the light levels dynamically with the iris.

A lot of people with Panasonics use DI because they have to. It just doesn't produce quality uniform blacks without it. A lot of people with JVCs will adjust it manually because the projector produces enough black and they don't want the image to change at all. Although the Sony gets better blacks without DI than the Panny, and not quite as good blacks as the JVC without DI, they find the Sony's DI to be pretty much invisible to the eye, and so they use it, allowing their black levels to be pushed even further and to a reference grade quality. No matter what you set it to be, you should still calibrate your projector without DI on.

True Mark, The Optoma 3D RF kit is lacking of the IR receiver extension and need my special converter cable to work with Sony projectors (this has been fully tested by some french people just last week). True, this special cable is a DIY project but I may build myself some and send them for AVS members.

No cable is required to be linked to the projector with MV kit : only IR receiver cable hooked to the MV RF dongle. However, MV RF dongle is able to be driven by my special DIY cable as well as Optoma !
True, Optoma RF kit lack of IR receiver extension and MUST use my DIY special cable to work with Sony projectors (30/90/95ES).

By the way, I've sent an email to you about Optoma kit availability from AVS store
This is true Mark.
This is true Lovingdvd : MV RF dongle is working nice with Optoma RF glasses and Optoma RF dongle is working nice with MV glasses !
John