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The "Official" Onkyo TX-NR3009 Owners Thread - Page 9

post #241 of 902
Has nothing to do with level you are playing your AVR.
Its the heat dissipation of the HDMI board which causes problems long term like on all previous models.
The AVR normally takes care of the heat generated by the power amps at higher levels activating those two built-in fans, one on each side.
post #242 of 902
Quote:
Originally Posted by coolcat4843 View Post

So I won't need to attach a fan, since I'll be setting the volume on my 3009 at -30db, when watching movies?

i still recommend a fan for anybody at any volume. heat destroys electronics and the cooler you keep the longer it lives and performs at peak.
post #243 of 902
Can anyone share their settings on setting up a sub woofer? I have a Polk 110 hooked up that I got today. I have run Audyssey Quick Start and its not seeing the sub.
I have the volume set at 50%. I did change the settings to 1 sub.
In reading the manual its a bit vague. Any guidance would be appreciated. I am still getting to know the 3009.
post #244 of 902
If you do the full calibration, do you hear the test tone for sub 1? If so, make sure it's at 75 db. Then cancel it and do the quick calibration again. Make sure your sub is connected to the sub 1 connection on the back of the AVR.
post #245 of 902
Quote:
Originally Posted by freeyayo50 View Post

If you do the full calibration, do you hear the test tone for sub 1? If so, make sure it's at 75 db. Then cancel it and do the quick calibration again. Make sure your sub is connected to the sub 1 connection on the back of the AVR.

No I did not hear a test tone from the sub. Where do you set the sub at 75 db? Do I first adjust the settings to include a sub on sub 1 and then do the calibration?
post #246 of 902
Quote:
Originally Posted by dreaux View Post

No I did not hear a test tone from the sub. Where do you set the sub at 75 db? Do I first adjust the settings to include a sub on sub 1 and then do the calibration?

If you dont hear a test tone for sub 1, make sure your sub is connected o the correct sub connection on the back of the AVR. Now turn the volume up on your sub to make sure you hear the test tone.

You set the 75 db during the calibration. it directs you on screen. It should ask you if you have 1 or 2 subs during the full calibration.
post #247 of 902
Quote:
Originally Posted by freeyayo50 View Post

If you dont hear a test tone for sub 1, make sure your sub is connected o the correct sub connection on the back of the AVR. Now turn the volume up on your sub to make sure you hear the test tone.
You set the 75 db during the calibration. it directs you on screen. It should ask you if you have 1 or 2 subs during the full calibration.

Thank you. The qestion I am not sure about is to put in the settings 1 sub on sub1 before calibration?
post #248 of 902
What I experienced during the calibration is when setting the level of the sub to 75, the test tone was very noticeable, but when it started to run Audyssey, the test tone was barely noticeable(a lot lower then when dialing the sub in) through the sub. Is this how it was for everyone else? Thanks
post #249 of 902
Quote:
Originally Posted by cadett View Post

What I experienced during the calibration is when setting the level of the sub to 75, the test tone was very noticeable, but when it started to run Audyssey, the test tone was barely noticeable(a lot lower then when dialing the sub in) through the sub. Is this how it was for everyone else? Thanks

Yes, same here. I guess thats how low 75db sounds on a sub. I actually set my sub to ~80 during calibration. Audyssey adjusts the volume anyway at the end.
Quote:
Originally Posted by dreaux View Post

Thank you. The qestion I am not sure about is to put in the settings 1 sub on sub1 before calibration?

It doesnt matter because Audyssey changes the setting during calibration when it asks you how many subs you have. You can leave on one sub.
post #250 of 902
Well I am starting to see why I am having problems with my setting up the sub. Its a Polk 110. After I plugged it in and did a calibration, and it gets to the back surround speakers the Onkyo 3009 shuts off.

I have to do a hard reset and I got my speakers back but when I do level calibration and it gets back to the back surround speakers the unit shuts off again. I have since disconnected the sub and do a reset 'clear', the unit stills shuts off while I do a level calibration.

I called Onkyo and they told me to do it manually but unit is still shutting off. All speakers are in phase. I called them again (got India of course) and we went through all the settings .....long story short they told me to send it in since it is defective. Not much help from them.

Now I can not get the unit to recognize any of the rear speakers. All this started after I tried to get the sub to work but now it has affected the whole setup.

Fortunately I bought it from Crutchfields and they have a 60 day return policy.
post #251 of 902
Must have been a coincidence that the rear speakers are giving problems when hooking up the sub. I say return it and get and get another one.
post #252 of 902
I wonder if now is the time to go for a TX-NR3009. I am thinking about waiting for the TX-NR1010, the TX-NR3010, and the TX-NR5010 to come out, but it seems the TX-NR3009 is becoming scarce. The only company selling it at around the $1,300.00 level that has any left is OneCall. Everybody else is around $1,500.00. I was considering the TX-NR5009, but it actually went up from around $1,800.00 to around $2,000.00. I wonder if the TX-NR5009 is worth the extra $700.00? I am about ready to pull the trigger on the TX-NR3009. I was also considering the TX-NR818, but I decided to get height speakers, so I have to get a 9.1 receiver. I wonder if OneCall has a price guarantee? I didn't see it in their website. The new receivers should be out soon, but I wonder if the remaining sellers will decrease the prices on the TX-NR3009 and the TX-NR5009? The new receivers will probably be selling at or near MSRP for a while, so there would probably not be any pressure on the sellers to sell the old stock any lower. What do you think?
post #253 of 902
I say buy the 3009 now from OneCall. The new receivers only have a few more features. Nothing worth the extra money then the older models though.
post #254 of 902
Called Crutchfields and they are taking the unit back. The will even pay for shipping which I thought was a nice gesture.

I am either getting a new Onkyo 3009 or a Yamaha RX-A2010. The price is the same. I had a Yamaha 810 and loved it but it did not have the 'presence' inputs for front wide or front high. The Yamaha 2010 does.

Any thoughts on which to go with?

http://usa.yamaha.com/products/audio-visual/aventage/rx-a2010_black_u/?mode=model
post #255 of 902
Quote:
Originally Posted by dreaux View Post

I have run Audyssey Quick Start and its not seeing the sub.

Why aren't you doing a FULL calibration?
post #256 of 902
Quote:
Originally Posted by coolcat4843 View Post

Why aren't you doing a FULL calibration?

Right now I am not able to do any calibration without the unit shutting down.
post #257 of 902
Quote:
Originally Posted by TazExprez View Post

I wonder if now is the time to go for a TX-NR3009. The only company selling it at around the $1,300.00 level that has any left is OneCall. I am about ready to pull the trigger on the TX-NR3009.What do you think?

Get the 3009 from OneCall.
I ordered one from them last week, when I noticed that Amazon had sold out of 3009's.
post #258 of 902
Quote:
Originally Posted by dreaux View Post

Right now I am not able to do any calibration without the unit shutting down.

When you get your replacement 3009 from Crutchfields, run the Audyssey full calibration.
Forget about that lame Quick Start.
post #259 of 902
Quote:
Originally Posted by gurkey View Post

Has nothing to do with level you are playing your AVR.
Its the heat dissipation of the HDMI board which causes problems long term like on all previous models.
The AVR normally takes care of the heat generated by the power amps at higher levels activating those two built-in fans, one on each side.

Why can't those two built-in fans also activate to dissipate the heat from the HDMI board?

Those built-in fans should fire up EVERYTIME you turn on your 3009.
post #260 of 902
AUDESSY VS NEO:
I have a fully calibrated 9.2 (high) speaker set-up and I typically use one of the Audessy modes.
Is there a reason to use Neo.X?
(I typically watch HDTV from DirecTV or bluray on my Oppo.)
post #261 of 902
Quote:
Originally Posted by coolcat4843 View Post

Why can't those two built-in fans also activate to dissipate the heat from the HDMI board?
Those built-in fans should fire up EVERYTIME you turn on your 3009.

It has to do with keeping the ambient noise level as low as possible, I think. I know there are fans that are designed to be quiet, but they're probably a bit bigger than the space inside allows. That's just a guess since the fans only come on at louder volumes where the noise they make wouldn't be noticed anyways. There's also the lack of fans on the majority of HT gear (amps come to mind) and most of the receivers I've seen don't have fans, or the fans are temp activated. I've heard the fans on the 3009 are also temp activated, but are set pretty high, around 100 F I recall reading somewhere. I could be mistaken on that last part though.
post #262 of 902
IT'S HERE!!!

FedEx just delivered my 3009 from OneCall. smile.gif

What's the best fan/cooler to get for the 3009?
Apparently the internal twin fans don't dispel the heat from the HDMI board in these units.

001-1.jpg
Edited by coolcat4843 - 7/30/12 at 1:28pm
post #263 of 902
Quote:
Originally Posted by coolcat4843 View Post

IT'S HERE!!!
What's the best fan/cooler to get for the 3009?
Apparently the internal twin fans don't dispel the heat from the HDMI board in these units.
It really depends on what you want. You can get an Antec cooler or some other component cooler, personally I think they're too expensive for the air they move. I would just get an Antec big boy 200mm case fan and a cooler guys AC adapter. You get 3 speeds and a 200mm fan to move a ton of air and keep the unit cool for (in most cases) less than a "component cooler". This is more of a function over form kind of thing though, so if the extra money for better looks is worth it to you, well, then component cooler it is.

http://www.amazon.com/Antec-Big-Boy-200-Computer/dp/B000V6FKGM/ref=pd_sxp_f_pt
http://www.amazon.com/Coolerguys-110v-Molex-Power-Adapter/dp/B000MGG6SC/ref=pd_bxgy_e_text_b
post #264 of 902
I just my 3009. I don't know where the grin on my face starts or ends. And this is the cooler I have on the way in the mail from amazon.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001AS39WC/ref=mp_s_a_1?qid=1343434998&sr=8-1

$70 shipped. A little pricey but cheap compared to replacing a burned out receiver.

butter and jelly please...
post #265 of 902
Quote:
Originally Posted by pukemon View Post

I just my 3009. I don't know where the grin on my face starts or ends. And this is the cooler I have on the way in the mail from amazon.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001AS39WC/ref=mp_s_a_1?qid=1343434998&sr=8-1
$70 shipped. A little pricey but cheap compared to replacing a burned out receiver.
butter and jelly please...
It says in the specs that it only pushes 88CFM with dual 120mm fans. That's pretty low, which means they must be spinning fairly slow so that they stay quiet. The big boy fan moves 83 on low, 108 on medium and 134 on high and with the AC adapter costs roughly ~$34 bucks, but aesthetics matter.
post #266 of 902
pukemon and fuzz092888 those are great cooling ideas. I was thinking of getting the Antec AV Cooler, but the CFM is ridiculously low compared to the solutions that you have presented. This cooler does 5.5 to 8.0 CFM, depending on the speed setting. The thing I like about this one is that it sucks the air up and then pushes it toward the back. I am planing on putting my receiver underneath a TV stand with the back of the stand open. It would have been great to have a cooler that sucked the air out of the cabinet.

fuzz092888 I like you lower priced solution and wonder how you keep the fan stuck on the receiver? Is the weight of the fan enough to keep it down? Should I use two fans, or more? Should I get an extra fan to take the air out of the TV stand through the back?
post #267 of 902
I chose aesthetics over cfm. My solution provides enough, as I am using an old trusty solution that costs $8, has aesthetics, actually stealth and has provided reliable service for 5 years. Original purchase. The problem with Fuzz's solution might be extraneous noise at medium and fast levels. But if you intend to play with enough volume that won't matter. Also keeping his anchored could be a slight problem. I highly recommend not going with the antec av cooler. Waste of money. If I had to choose again, Fuzz's was a consideration, but my option would been $4 cheaper. I chose mine because I know it is enough and will fit a future solution very nicely very soon. You could always do mine as a diy for about $30 cheaper also.

butter and jelly please...
post #268 of 902
Quote:
Originally Posted by TazExprez View Post

pukemon and fuzz092888 those are great cooling ideas. I was thinking of getting the Antec AV Cooler, but the CFM is ridiculously low compared to the solutions that you have presented. This cooler does 5.5 to 8.0 CFM, depending on the speed setting. The thing I like about this one is that it sucks the air up and then pushes it toward the back. I am planing on putting my receiver underneath a TV stand with the back of the stand open. It would have been great to have a cooler that sucked the air out of the cabinet.
fuzz092888 I like you lower priced solution and wonder how you keep the fan stuck on the receiver? Is the weight of the fan enough to keep it down? Should I use two fans, or more? Should I get an extra fan to take the air out of the TV stand through the back?

I have this fan and another fan, the air moved isn't nearly enough to gain any sort of lift if that's what you're asking. I actually bought a fan controller as well, but I plan to use the fan controller for fans I'm installing on my entertainment center as well. The big boy fan is more than enough to keep the unit cool.

Quote:
Originally Posted by pukemon View Post

I chose aesthetics over cfm. My solution provides enough, as I am using an old trusty solution that costs $8, has aesthetics, actually stealth and has provided reliable service for 5 years. Original purchase. The problem with Fuzz's solution might be extraneous noise at medium and fast levels. But if you intend to play with enough volume that won't matter. Also keeping his anchored could be a slight problem. I highly recommend not going with the antec av cooler. Waste of money. If I had to choose again, Fuzz's was a consideration, but my option would been $4 cheaper. I chose mine because I know it is enough and will fit a future solution very nicely very soon. You could always do mine as a diy for about $30 cheaper also.
butter and jelly please...

The fan noise isn't a problem at low at all. At medium it is barely audible with light ambient noise and loud is no issue at movie watching levels (at least for me since I'm usually at -15 to -5). I don't know why there would be an issue keeping it "anchored". The fan sits on top and sucks air out, this thing isn't meant to get lift tongue.gif Smaller fans move less air, so to move more air they need to spin faster, which means louder. The big boy fan doesn't need to spin fast to get more CFM so it'll be quieter while moving more air. The small fans will work, but my goal that I set for myself (whether actually needed or not) was to keep the temp of the receiver as close to room temp as possible. Currently I have two 200mm fans sitting on top and it stays near room no matter what kind of listening I'm doing or what levels I'm listening at. Fan controller, both fans, and AC adapter was still less than $70 and I could put together something close to what I have for even less, but I wanted blue neon lights so I spent a bit more.

Anyways, some sort of fan, no matter what will help and keep the receiver running for a long time. It really just depends on how much you want to spend, what you want it to look like, and how much flexibility you want to have for the future. I wanted to maximize cooling and future upgradability, so I went with something that I put together myself instead of buying a component cooler or any prepackaged system.
post #269 of 902
I use one of these & it works great. It was way overpriced when I bought it but now it is even more expensive. It does look nice.

http://www.crutchfield.com/shopsearch/fan.html?nvpair=FFBrand%7cNiles+Audio
post #270 of 902
Quote:
Originally Posted by dowop View Post

I use one of these & it works great. It was way overpriced when I bought it but now it is even more expensive. It does look nice.

http://www.crutchfield.com/shopsearch/fan.html?nvpair=FFBrand%7cNiles+Audio

Can I sell you a bridge? Buy one get 3 free. Geez.

butter and jelly please...
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