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Who sells good speaker kits?

post #1 of 47
Thread Starter 
I just looked on Parts Express, and I couldn't find a kit that would handle more than 140 watts.

I need 230 watts or so, and an 8 ohm impedance (no lower than 6). If the cabinet isn't too complicated, I can build that. An assembled crossover would be nice, but not necessary - the parts would be fine.
post #2 of 47
It was already mentioned in your other thread, but Clearwave has solutions for you.

I built the 4TSE this year and the whole experience was great - Jed was very helpful throughout.
post #3 of 47
I run a large 3-way kit designed by Rick Craig at Selah Audio. Lots of kits, and custom design work too. That guy is "top drawer".

Jon Krueger
post #4 of 47
If you have not looked at the Pi speaker website (http://www.pispeakers.com/Prices.html) I highly recommend that you do. Very well regarded across multiple DIY boards.

Wayne is a great guy to work with and he is very supportive of the DIY community. While you can build the crossovers from the free schematic he provides, I purchased mine assembled for about $20 more than the raw parts. I know the 4 Pi is an 8 ohm design, not sure about the 3 Pi.

The 3 and 4 Pi's can take a lot of power and play insanely loud if that is your thing, but from personal experience I can attest that the upgraded 4 Pi's also sound great at lower volumes.
LL
post #5 of 47
Quote:
Originally Posted by Floydster View Post

I just looked on Parts Express, and I couldn't find a kit that would handle more than 140 watts.

Thermal power handling is an almost meaningless specification to look at (it may imply where thermal compression becomes an issue, and you may actually care where you've put a bass driver in a small box and applied equalization to get extension).

For reference level home theater you'll be averaging way less than one Watt (13' from a 86dB/1W/1 meter speaker in a typical indoor environment (where Toole summarizes draw down levels of 3dB/distance doubling) you'll be looking at 1/4W to get dialog at 74dB SPL). Loud but non-night club listening levels still aren't going to pose thermal issues (99dBC on rock music would get you to 40W a side average with such speakers).

If you do need more headroom (nice jazz recordings have over 20dB between average and peak levels, so 93dB total and 90dB/side average playback levels are going to take 110dB listening position peaks from each speaker that may be 116dB at the speaker) you'll do a lot better getting there with more efficient speakers. Disregarding the power limits and thermal compression, in that situation an 86dB/1W/1 meter speakers would require a 500W amplifier (1000W peak but consumer amplifiers are rated with a 3dB crest factor) while the 96dB/1W/1 meter speakers are fine with 50W a side.

This also ignores that you'll run out of excursion before power handling in a lot of situations. Being able to handle 300W in a driver doesn't matter much (it suggests you won't get noticeable power compression if you run it at 15W) when 30W runs it out to its mechanical limits at low frequencies.

Quote:


I need 230 watts or so, and an 8 ohm impedance (no lower than 6). If the cabinet isn't too complicated, I can build that. An assembled crossover would be nice, but not necessary - the parts would be fine.

You need to decide on budget, placement limitations (ex, the speakers need to be in corners, can be a healthy 5' from the front wall and 3' from side walls, can or can't be in walls with 2x4 or 26 studs, etc.), required bandwidth (full-range, you're willing to cross to powered sub-woofers at 120Hz, etc.), and peak output levels (coming from average listening levels and what the peak to average SPL ratio is in recordings of interest).

Unless you plan on using your speakers at DJ gigs or out doors you're not going to have problems with thermal power handling as long as you turn the volume down after it starts distorting.
post #6 of 47
post #7 of 47
hurray for this thread.

Actually opened my eyes to some new resources - hadn't heard of the gr-research.com page before. Now there's more kits for me to drool over. I like their omidirectional stuff and their burn-in research was interesting

The price sheet for the Pi lineup is a good link too.
post #8 of 47
Quote:
Originally Posted by baniels View Post

It was already mentioned in your other thread, but Clearwave has solutions for you.

I built the 4TSE this year and the whole experience was great - Jed was very helpful throughout.

I built a 4CC from Jed at ClearWave. Excellent kit. The crossovers are built like tanks. Excellent response time from Jed as well. A++ on his kits.
post #9 of 47
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Garric33 View Post

I built a 4CC from Jed at ClearWave. Excellent kit. The crossovers are built like tanks. Excellent response time from Jed as well. A++ on his kits.

I would if I could afford it (4CC). Before I had to change job locations and take a $15K hit on the mortgage, I would have jumped on these.

The smaller kits are 4 ohms, and that is just too low for my Pioneer Elite (120w channel @ 8 ohms). 4 ohms is nominal, and if it dips just a bit below, the amplifier trips.

I've got to find something for about $400 a pair that is 8 ohms. I figure I can use them as surrounds when I can get something really good.

Off topic, but I put a small pair of outdoor speakers just to hear what 7.1 would sound like. They worked for about 5 minutes and then tripped the amp. When I pulled the grill off one, the cone fell on the floor. The coils were smoked.
post #10 of 47
I have speakers by both Rick Craig at Selah and Danny Richie at GR Research. They are both incredible values, GR is probably more in your price range. There is a number of really good kits, this one is the one I would recommend: http://gr-research.com/n3.aspx
post #11 of 47
Quote:
Originally Posted by Floydster View Post

Off topic, but I put a small pair of outdoor speakers just to hear what 7.1 would sound like. They worked for about 5 minutes and then tripped the amp. When I pulled the grill off one, the cone fell on the floor. The coils were smoked.

Were you cranking them to point of gross distortion? If not, your problem may be a faulty amp, not wimpy speakers. You seem to have blown more speakers in the recent past than most people blow in a lifetime. Check out the numerous "blowing speakers" videos on YouTube. Most of them hang tough for a while before the go....and they sound really bad getting there. Of course the ones that get plugged into the wall outlet usually go fast.
post #12 of 47
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Perry R View Post

I have speakers by both Rick Craig at Selah and Danny Richie at GR Research. They are both incredible values, GR is probably more in your price range. There is a number of really good kits, this one is the one I would recommend: http://gr-research.com/n3.aspx

These are 8 ohms which is great. They look great, but the power limit is 100 watts. I wonder how much power I use when I get the level where I like it? Figuring that my am puts out 120 watts RMS into 8 ohms, these might be OK.

The enclosure looks simple enough that I could build it.

Thanks for the link. I'll check out the other one too.
post #13 of 47
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by mobeer4don View Post

Were you cranking them to point of gross distortion? If not, your problem may be a faulty amp, not wimpy speakers. You seem to have blown more speakers in the recent past than most people blow in a lifetime. Check out the numerous "blowing speakers" videos on YouTube. Most of them hang tough for a while before the go....and they sound really bad getting there. Of course the ones that get plugged into the wall outlet usually go fast.

NO. They were just tiny, and went before I could get the level down. They probably cost $20. I just mentioned it for humor.

The HK speakers are probably 15 years old. They were hanging on by a thread anyway, and HD sound just finished them off one driver at a time.
I was just amazed at how cheap they looked inside. That is what pushed me to try and build my own. These sounded great for a long time. Then one driver started to rattle a bit at a sudden deep loud sound on a video.

The tweeters went probably four months apart. They just quit. I never push speakers to a level anywhere near what they are rated. I consider anything over 90 db damaging to hearing anyway.
post #14 of 47
Quote:
Originally Posted by Floydster View Post

I've got to find something for about $400 a pair that is 8 ohms. I figure I can use them as surrounds when I can get something really good.

From the sounds of it you need some pro audio type speakers.

I would consider a pair of these:

http://www.pispeakers.com/catalog/pr...products_id/41
post #15 of 47
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Perry R View Post

I have speakers by both Rick Craig at Selah and Danny Richie at GR Research. They are both incredible values, GR is probably more in your price range. There is a number of really good kits, this one is the one I would recommend: http://gr-research.com/n3.aspx

What do you think of these http://www.speakerlab.com/pointline.html#Point2D ?

Either the 2T or 2D? They are rated up to 200 watts.

Floyd
post #16 of 47
Quote:
Originally Posted by Floydster View Post

What do you think of these http://www.speakerlab.com/pointline.html#Point2D ?

I dunno how they sound but there was a bit of a red flag to me:

Quote:


Crossover: Proprietary symmetrical second order (Linkwitz-Riley) 12dB per octave electronic (18dB per octave acoustic) network centered at 2.8kHz

18db/octave acoustic is more certainly not 2nd order linkwitz riley.
post #17 of 47
OK if the driver is 6dB down and falling off at that rate and you have a 12dB/octave crossover you get an 18dB/octave total rolloff. What's so confusing about that?

That said the Speakerlab stuff looks a little meh. If you like the woofers go to the source GR Research.
post #18 of 47
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by NEO Dan View Post

OK if the driver is 6dB down and falling off at that rate and you have a 12dB/octave crossover you get an 18dB/octave total rolloff. What's so confusing about that?

That said the Speakerlab stuff looks a little meh. If you like the woofers go to the source GR Research.

Bear with me guys, I'm not new to tech stuff, just new to speaker stuff, which it seems can be very complicated. The best kit that I see at GR is the N3. The description is:

  • 2-way transmission line loaded small floor standing speaker
  • Parallel network with 1.8kHz crossover point
  • Neo-3 pdr with deep back cup (tweeter)
  • M-130/16 5.25" composite paper woofer with shaped dust cap, polymer chassis, and vented voice coil and pole piece.
  • Frequency response is as good as +/-1.5dB from end to end.
  • -3dB is 40Hz
  • Sensitivity is 90.5 dB (1watt/1m)
  • Recommended amplification is 8-100 watts RMS
  • Impedance 8 ohms nominal and 5.2 ohms minimal in the top end.
  • Dimensions: 41.875" h plus the bass and floor spikes, x 8" w, x 11.5" d.
100 watts RMS sounds weak (?) to me. That is the sticking point. I really don't know how many watts I use to get to the listening levels I like. That might be totally adequate. And a BIG thing; are the prices listed really for a pair of kits? Sounds too good to be true.

I'm 64, so I'm used to big "coffin" speakers, and amplifiers that don't balk at 3 ohms. I don't really want huge speakers, and I can't afford a receiver that could handle those loads (the recession bit me hard). It just seems like the tech discussed in this forum in the last two years has shifted dramatically, and I'm not well versed in it.

I'm kind of torn between something like the N3 and the Pi3. With the Pi3, I figure if I don't like it, I can always use them as surrounds. But, maybe the N3 would melt down and be useless. I have learned from this forum that I can't just sub drivers that are higher rated and expect them to fit right in with the design.

I need to look at the Pi3 and see the impedance. If it's 4 ohms, that would be too much of a gamble.

I love forums like these, because this is where I learn the fastest.
post #19 of 47
Velocity is right, an LR2 is 12db/octave, not ever 18. That would make it 3rd order and there is no LR3. So it is suspicious.

As for your power requirements, stop caring. The power handling should be one of the least important things. You said you don't listen past 90db? 16watts would do that for you Do you put your receiver to 0db ever?
post #20 of 47
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Drew Eckhardt View Post

Thermal power handling is an almost meaningless specification to look at (it may imply where thermal compression becomes an issue, and you may actually care where you've put a bass driver in a small box and applied equalization to get extension).

For reference level home theater you'll be averaging way less than one Watt (13' from a 86dB/1W/1 meter speaker in a typical indoor environment (where Toole summarizes draw down levels of 3dB/distance doubling) you'll be looking at 1/4W to get dialog at 74dB SPL). Loud but non-night club listening levels still aren't going to pose thermal issues (99dBC on rock music would get you to 40W a side average with such speakers).

If you do need more headroom (nice jazz recordings have over 20dB between average and peak levels, so 93dB total and 90dB/side average playback levels are going to take 110dB listening position peaks from each speaker that may be 116dB at the speaker) you'll do a lot better getting there with more efficient speakers. Disregarding the power limits and thermal compression, in that situation an 86dB/1W/1 meter speakers would require a 500W amplifier (1000W peak but consumer amplifiers are rated with a 3dB crest factor) while the 96dB/1W/1 meter speakers are fine with 50W a side.

This also ignores that you'll run out of excursion before power handling in a lot of situations. Being able to handle 300W in a driver doesn't matter much (it suggests you won't get noticeable power compression if you run it at 15W) when 30W runs it out to its mechanical limits at low frequencies.



You need to decide on budget, placement limitations (ex, the speakers need to be in corners, can be a healthy 5' from the front wall and 3' from side walls, can or can't be in walls with 2x4 or 26 studs, etc.), required bandwidth (full-range, you're willing to cross to powered sub-woofers at 120Hz, etc.), and peak output levels (coming from average listening levels and what the peak to average SPL ratio is in recordings of interest).

Unless you plan on using your speakers at DJ gigs or out doors you're not going to have problems with thermal power handling as long as you turn the volume down after it starts distorting.

I appreciate your input. I just spent 20 minutes writing questions, and then I closed the damn browser window. I'll try again when I'm less tired.
post #21 of 47
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by tuxedocivic View Post

Velocity is right, an LR2 is 12db/octave, not ever 18. That would make it 3rd order and there is no LR3. So it is suspicious.

As for your power requirements, stop caring. The power handling should be one of the least important things. You said you don't listen past 90db? 16watts would do that for you Do you put your receiver to 0db ever?

I meant continuously when I said 90 db. Who knows what the db is when a Blu-ray has a track with an explosion or a jet engine up close.

I may be blind, in fact I'm fighting wet mac in my right eye, but I cannot find the nominal impedance for a 3 pi speaker. I'm leaning in the big woofer wave guide direction.
post #22 of 47
Just noticed your in FT Worth, GR Research is in Iowa falls, about 100 miles I believe. Why dont you give Danny a call....number is on the website...set up an appointment and take a look. He is a very friendly guy
and it will help you to determine if the N3, or another kit is for you. Bring cash and It will save the delivery cost of the kit as well. Worst case youve taken a Saturday drive.
The cost is for a pair. I have one of his V kits, and it compares to speakers that cost many thousands of dollars. The DIY kit is the way to go if you have any woodworking skills. I have built 2 different arrays (fronts and rears HT), 2 dual subs, a center and a pair of Open Baffles from kits of this type from GR and Selah......they are just outstanding. I have fitted a HT room and a 2ch room with world class speakers for a fraction of the price of retail.

Good luck on your quest.
post #23 of 47
Quote:
Originally Posted by Floydster View Post

I cannot find the nominal impedance for a 3 pi speaker.

Pretty sure the woofer driver is the Delta 12LFA, that would be 8 ohms nominal. I would highly recommend you at least upgrade to the B&C DE250 compression driver, the polyimide diaphragm is smoother sounding than the titanium of the PSD2002. If you are planning running fullrange without subwoofers then going to the four Pi model for an additional $60 is a nice option.
post #24 of 47
post #25 of 47
Quote:
Originally Posted by NEO Dan View Post

Pretty sure the woofer driver is the Delta 12LFA, that would be 8 ohms nominal. I would highly recommend you at least upgrade to the B&C DE250 compression driver, the polyimide diaphragm is smoother sounding than the titanium of the PSD2002. If you are planning running fullrange without subwoofers then going to the four Pi model for an additional $60 is a nice option.

If choosing between upgrading only the woofer OR the compression driver, Parham recommends upgrading the woofer.
post #26 of 47
Quote:
Originally Posted by NEO Dan View Post

If you are planning running fullrange without subwoofers then going to the four Pi model for an additional $60 is a nice option.

I have and love the upgraded 4Pis. I would not consider running them without a subwoofer for theater use. They drop off starting at 80hz. You look and see a big 15 inch JBL woofer and think it will go low, But the 4Pi design isn't intended to go low.
post #27 of 47
Madisound has some great kits, one of their most expensive, the ZRT2.5, is my favorite.
post #28 of 47
Quote:
Originally Posted by Floydster View Post


I meant continuously when I said 90 db. Who knows what the db is when a Blu-ray has a track with an explosion or a jet engine up close.

.

90 continuous ? Jeez that's loud. No wonder you're blowing drivers. You're kind of contradicting yourself.

Yes, you need high efficiency. You know 85db continuous is the reference level right
post #29 of 47
Quote:
Originally Posted by tuxedocivic View Post

90 continuous ? Jeez that's loud. No wonder you're blowing drivers. You're kind of contradicting yourself.

Yes, you need high efficiency. You know 85db continuous is the reference level right

74dB SPL dialog. With 31dB of dynamic range that allows for 105dB SPL screen channel peaks, produces 75dB SPL noise with -30dBFS consumer test signals, and 85dB SPL noise with -20dBFS test signals.
post #30 of 47
If you want high end stuff go here>>>>SOLEN
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