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Sony HMZ-T1 HMD Owner's dedicated thread - Page 47

post #1381 of 3315
Most people find the unmodded HMZ uncomfortable to wear while a few aren't that bothered. Could of course just be a matter of personal preference but maybe you head size/thickness of neck is a factor. My head size is above average. The same goes for my neck, so I wondered if that's an advantage or not. I've ordered the HMZ so would like to know what to expect.

Those of you who find modding unneccesary, how is your head/neck size?
post #1382 of 3315
Quote:
Originally Posted by fluXa View Post

I took the HMZ apart completely today.

Great work mate..I was thinking of taking it a part and modeling all the bits up in 3d. really help when making mods. specially for 3d printed items, replacement parts.. its my day job so im pretty proficient at it.

Just struggling for time as im away for 3 weeks soon so busy at work.. then i should have bundles of time.
post #1383 of 3315
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jmog View Post

Most people find the unmodded HMZ uncomfortable to wear while a few aren't that bothered. Could of course just be a matter of personal preference but maybe you head size/thickness of neck is a factor. My head size is above average. The same goes for my neck, so I wondered if that's an advantage or not. I've ordered the HMZ so would like to know what to expect.

Those of you who find modding unneccesary, how is your head/neck size?

Its not really supporting weight its the awkward way in which its balanced and creates point loads in specific areas.

even for people who dont work out, our heads are heavy and necks naturally trained up just supporting them in every day life. im used to riding with a full helmet. even after 8hrs with freeway wind resistance its not my neck that hurts.

If sony had just the optics and screens then ran everything over the top to the rest stored at the back of the head it would be much more comfortable.
post #1384 of 3315
Here are the required parts (and the hmd is running):



I made a zip of some of my teardown images and put it on hotfile:

http://hotfile.com/dl/137208811/e0f3...rdown.zip.html

Unfortunately light conditions weren't great. I have everything still in parts. If there are any questions or picture requests, let me know.
post #1385 of 3315
Quote:
Originally Posted by fluXa View Post

Here are the required parts (and the hmd is running):



I made a zip of some of my teardown images and put it on hotfile:

http://hotfile.com/dl/137208811/e0f3...rdown.zip.html

Unfortunately light conditions weren't great. I have everything still in parts. If there are any questions or picture requests, let me know.

thanks - how deep are the eye pieces?
post #1386 of 3315
Quote:
Originally Posted by fluXa View Post

Here are the required parts (and the hmd is running):

Unfortunately light conditions weren't great. I have everything still in parts. If there are any questions or picture requests, let me know.

Cheers mate.. doesn't look like a whole lot to support. have concepts running through my head., looking forward to getting some time away to model some things up.
post #1387 of 3315
Quote:
Originally Posted by EastyUK View Post

Cheers mate.. doesn't look like a whole lot to support. have concepts running through my head., looking forward to getting some time away to model some things up.

I might have to as well - laser cut acrylic to make brackets and all to hold the parts in the new enclosure . . .a techno enclosure
post #1388 of 3315
Quote:
Originally Posted by DarthBeavis View Post

I might have to as well - laser cut acrylic to make brackets and all to hold the parts in the new enclosure . . .a techno enclosure

DB.. Cannot wait to see what you come up with. Browsing your site there are some incredible creations.. thanks for sharing them.
post #1389 of 3315
Quote:
Originally Posted by EastyUK View Post

DB.. Cannot wait to see what you come up with. Browsing your site there are some incredible creations.. thanks for sharing them.

hint http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DxjmQfeYztA
post #1390 of 3315
Quote:
Originally Posted by DarthBeavis View Post

hint http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DxjmQfeYztA

Oh love daft punk.. but it's have a camera on the front so you can see.. great video.
post #1391 of 3315
I present face tracking in Gran Turismo 5

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h63vD5XROb0

You need a PS3 Eye Camera to get this to work.

The face is covered when wearing the HMZ-T1 so I had to come up with a simple solution.

Check the video for details. Even if its a bit silly.
post #1392 of 3315
Quote:
Originally Posted by EastyUK View Post

Oh love daft punk.. but it's have a camera on the front so you can see.. great video.

or two cameras for 3d
post #1393 of 3315
Quote:
Originally Posted by Vic-Viper View Post

I present face tracking in Gran Turismo 5

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h63vD5XROb0

You need a PS3 Eye Camera to get this to work.

The face is covered when wearing the HMZ-T1 so I had to come up with a simple solution.

Check the video for details. Even if its a bit silly.

That's brilliant mate.. you think sony will mod the PS3 so it picks up the light on the front of the unit. trackir used to work pretty good with only one reflector. I just ordered a bunch or IR emitting leds to try and create a custom track signpost..

With unlimited funds this would be cool..




For a guy that cuts up socks and sticks them to his HMD i'll probably first pull apart a wii controller and piss about with GlovePie


Quote:
Originally Posted by DarthBeavis View Post

or two cameras for 3d

Baby steps haha..
post #1394 of 3315
Very brave DarthBeavis! I've pulled mine to bits, but not that far too bits! I took out the gear that locks the movement between the two lens sliders..

Thinking out loud here.. what about turning the setup into a pair of googles with a stretchable head strap? Similar to swimming goggles, use a squishy set of eye cups (as comfortable as you can find). That seems like the most effective way of minimising movement and thus ensuring continuous focus. The downside is that you'd need to match the squishy eye cups to your vision depth-wise to ensure you hit the sweet focus spot. Another person might not be able to use your rig. However, the upside is that you can create something extremely light, and something that wouldn't be affected by you moving your head around. Furthermore, you'd ensure maximal light-blocking.
post #1395 of 3315
Quote:
Originally Posted by spybreaka View Post

Very brave DarthBeavis! I've pulled mine to bits, but not that far too bits! I took out the gear that locks the movement between the two lens sliders..

Thinking out loud here.. what about turning the setup into a pair of googles with a stretchable head strap? Similar to swimming goggles, use a squishy set of eye cups (as comfortable as you can find). That seems like the most effective way of minimising movement and thus ensuring continuous focus. The downside is that you'd need to match the squishy eye cups to your vision depth-wise to ensure you hit the sweet focus spot. Another person might not be able to use your rig. However, the upside is that you can create something extremely light, and something that wouldn't be affected by you moving your head around. Furthermore, you'd ensure maximal light-blocking.

You'd also need to ensure that the two eye pieces are parallel, which might be difficult with that concept
post #1396 of 3315
Last night i think i found the sweet spot after moving the head pad up on to the higher setting and i finally saw what this hmd is capable of, I was playing wipout hd was was totally amazed, I was happy with it on my 3d led samsung but it is nothing like the hmz. Also when i play the ps3 on it the ps3 sets the output to 1080p and 72 inch for the tv size is that the right settings ,As i thought it only accepted 720p. Thanks in advance.
post #1397 of 3315
No it accepts 720p or 1080p....but since the native resolution (the physical pixel structure) is limited to 720p....it will take the 1080p input and automatically downsample it to fit 720p. It would be better to set your PS3 to output 720p to avoid the downsampling process which could introduce a minor amount of lag.
post #1398 of 3315
Here are some measurements. Precision is about 1mm as I don't have the proper equipment to do precise 3d measuring.

Eye-Pieces: Width: 43mm Height:35mm Depth: 39mm Weight: ~60 Gramms

Length of Eyepiece->Circuit board connection : 70mm. Width of connection: 16mm

Circuit Board: 116mm x 37.5mm.. depth about 8 mm due to the hdmi+power connector

Buttons (odd shape/not well measured, would fit inside a box of this size) 47mm x 30mm x 8mm. buttons protrude about 4 mm of that.
post #1399 of 3315
First I decided I need the plastic part that aligns the displays, so I put some things together again.
Then I sacrificed a gooseneck microphone protector and came up with this:



The remaining problem now is firmly attaching the gooseneck to the headphones without leaving any traces. This definitely solves the headphone sound quality problem btw. These headphones are very comfortable and have some weight, so the additional weight is not bad even without counterweights.

The gooseneck is not touching my head at all, so the two screens are now just floating in front of the eyes and the backside of the gooseneck will allow to have a 150g or so counterweight.

I was able to tightly attach the gooseneck with a screw through the unneeded gearwheel hole. So still everything would be 100% reversible besides the microphone protector.

For outside light protection I'll just buy some very dense light fabric and I'll make a big hood or something.

And yep eventually some case would be nice, but I do like that blue LED now.
post #1400 of 3315
Quote:
Originally Posted by fluXa View Post

First I decided I need the plastic part that aligns the displays, so I put some things together again.
Then I sacrificed a gooseneck microphone protector and came up with this:

Way cool! Actually that design does make sense. If I were you, I would patent this immediately, otherwise Sony might preempt you soon

In a dark room, without blue LED, this might work already, but how easily is it possible to adjust the screens in order to have everything in focus?

Cool anyway
post #1401 of 3315
yes this does work well in a dark room, but the photo of that didn't contain much information. It's easy to adjust with the gooseneck, but so far moving the head leads to unwanted changes because the attachment to the headphones is not stable enough yet. I think I need to come up with some adapter part that allows to tighten the fit with a screw.

I also ordered some gooseneck usb led lights that have thinner goosenecks. I'll maybe try using two small ones for more stability, but amazingly this working ok on the first try, and I just had to post this image.
post #1402 of 3315
Quote:
Originally Posted by fluXa View Post

yes this does work well in a dark room, but the photo of that didn't contain much information. It's easy to adjust with the gooseneck, but so far moving the head leads to unwanted changes because the attachment to the headphones is not stable enough yet. I think I need to come up with some adapter part that allows to tighten the fit with a screw.

I also ordered some gooseneck usb led lights that have thinner goosenecks. I'll maybe try using two small ones for more stability, but amazingly this working ok on the first try, and I just had to post this image.

The idea itself looks promising, because using a gooseneck is enabling you to bend away the optical unit rather quickly, without removing the headphones. A more elaborated construction may combine convenience with effectiveness and I am looking forward to seeing a final version, perhaps inlcuding a guide that is capable to help less professional tinkerers improving their HMDs
post #1403 of 3315
Dude, fluXa...you're a genius....as soon as I saw your pictures of the internals, I started thinking along the same lines......now if my darn unit would just arrive

Did the goosneck thread right into the hole? Do you know the threading? I'm wondering if its the standard standard 5/8 inch -27 threading?
post #1404 of 3315
Quote:
I made a zip of some of my teardown images and put it on hotfile:

http://hotfile.com/dl/137208811/e0f3...rdown.zip.html

This file is either removed due to copyright claim or is deleted by the uploader.

post #1405 of 3315
I already PM'd him and he said he was going to put it back up on dropbox....but no link yet, we have to be patient
post #1406 of 3315
Grr how can I share the images without worries? I definitely did not remove the file, so I guess some 3rd party was involved.
post #1407 of 3315
Will the HMZ-T1 accept a 1280x720@120Hz signal from a PC? Any of the newer graphics cards (<2 years old) with a HDMI output should be capable.
post #1408 of 3315
Wahoo! I just got an email update from USPS that my unit arrived at the base PO last night....that means I should finally get it tomorrow
post #1409 of 3315
I opened the processor unit and measured output voltage. It was the same with 110V and 230V so there is a universal power supply inside. My unit is US model.

JJ
post #1410 of 3315
fluXa (and the rest using bicycle helmets), I'm thinking, get 2 of those rubber eye things and glue on to the plastic part around the lenses (think i saw some posted in the thread looked good). Then take a welding helmet and remove the "helmet" part, modify it and put on the bare hardware onto it, now it's isolated and can be bent up and down again when needed (keep that function of the helmet and probably need something to pull it up/down with). People use welding helmets several hours straight with pretty much weight. One can also buy one of those without the welding glass (lots cheaper) and maybe try to get the lenses inside that hole and the entire face is isolated (then no need to glue anything around the lenses for darkness), the only thing to keep from Sony is the hardware and the plastic part that holds the lenses for correct measurements. Off course sticking everything into place i have no clue since i'm not that creative, though it looks like all the electronics can be removed from the plastic that holds the lenses/pcb would be possible to make some holes in it and use some screws (to be able to attach to the helmet), then in with the hardware again.

Sorry for my bad english, just an idead though =)

EDIT: nvm, i just found out the welding helmets has their mechanisms by each ear to bring it up/down, i don't think that's suitable in this case heh
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