Sony HMZ-T1 HMD Owner's dedicated thread - Page 105

Real 5.1 surround headphones, Tritton AX Pro for consoles and Roccat Kave for PC

I never use speaker, last time was maybe 16 years ago.

I prefer 5.1 headphones for privacy, space and ease of use (you dont need to sit in sweet spot)

Anyway, I cut them and polished the edges a bit so its smooth, of course you can measure and make both sides same size and so on, but im not crafty person.
I just marked with a pen and then cut, no measuring or anything like that.

one of the bonuses is that Its much easier to put on the HMD now, nothing touches your face on the sides, its also less claustrophobic and kind of airy, your face gets more air now LOL

Preorderd 2of the hmz-t2s just thats its lighter and sony done what mods we did discover on the hmz-t1 this i feels more a usable product than the 1rst that needed the work to make it really into what sony done with the t2 ...

Just picked up a T1 second-hand.

Apart from the comfort issue, the major problem I have is that the IPD adjustment is too coarse. I need between the 3rd and 4th setting to get good focus on both outer edges. I'll eventually disassemble and remove the coupling mechanism to control each side separately.

I played the first chapters of Uncharted and thought the 3D effect felt very natural. At that point I realized I had to turn 3D on in the game settings. :-) I see more depth now, lol. But the resolution drop is displeasing. Here's to hoping they remaster all the Uncharted games in 1080p 3D for the PS4.

i checked the dissembly video on youtube - the visual details were not enough even when i played it in slow motion !
Gives me jitters to think that i'd have to do those things to remove headphones / gearwheel of ipd sliders.....
may be i might have trouble putting it back in one piece and make it a usd$900 brick.....................

Damm ! Can someone post a visually detailed 1080p video of the dissemble please ?

Worked fine for me, I used the video just for reference, its VERY easy to put everything back, you wont be removing parts of the device.

Everything is one big block of stuff, after you remove the casing all you need to do is remove the block of everything from the bottom plastic and then youll get access to the wheel.

Your not going to take electronic apart, I dont know how to explain it but all electronic and optics they connected to each other in a block like structure, you wont be dissembling it
The only electronics your touching is removing the buttons from the casing and the headphone connectors

I'm selling my HMZ-T1 very cheap, only $495 everything included. in case anyone wants it, PM me. I couldn't get it to fit me comfortably.

Not much work getting to the gear just a few small screwes well worth it for left n right adjustment of the lenses.

so what happens to headphones after removal is there a way to connect own headphones to the headset just like in T2 ?


so after removal of gearwheel are u able to get perfect focus of all four corners ?
is the exit pupil large after this procedure [easy focus of entire screen with all corners without blurring] ?

After removal, you can use your own better headphones, the sony ones are 2$ crap, im not audiophile but even i can hear how ****** they are
Just remember your not connecting the headphones to the Sony HMZ, you connect them to the source like you did before while playing on TV
oh and its permanent, because you actually need to cut them

Removing the gear helped a bit but still there is slight blurriness on extreme the edges of corners

that's what makes me nervous ordering this - may be with inherent optics design or the specific unit with defect !

For me it was 98 percent, one top corner that was hard to get blurr free as it was gone by tilting the hmz slightly up n down aswell.But it made a huge diffrence in reading texst on games well orth the job really. You could try the painting of the optic edges aswell (did little for me really)

i'd rather wait for the India release and get demo before i pay - seems the optics is to be considered before getting into the game!

Not shure a demo will do it any justice without ur own contenn, bring sumting that you know well ... like a 3D movie that u feel is referance for your taste.

well - real issue is optics - if the optics is cool then 2d and 3d will be cool as well.

i must get to see all 4 corners of the screen without much effort first whether 2d or 3D - if that is NOT achieved then the unit is BAD par se.
So will arry an SBS 3D file and a regular 2D video to check this out for demo..............
i do not know why but i feel jittery ordering it first and trying it later for either T1 or T2

Someone mentioned a mod way back in the thread where you remove the forehead pad and nose bridge and have the unit as close as possible to your eyes, this greatly reduced the edge blurriness for me.
If you are going to use it for gaming at all I'd say a test with a video of a game would be more useful. I have blurriness at the extreme edges when viewing a a 1080p desktop or rarely in some games at 720p. Viewing films I have yet to have issues in this regard in either 2D or 3D. For films the major issue is the visibility of the pixel grid which becomes apparent when large parts of the screen are the same colour. I would say that 95% of the time it generally does not affect my viewing.
With regards to gaming though the 3d on consoles is generally very disappointing on both the xbox 360(no hdmi on my console so i don't know if that makes an improvement) and the ps3. If these are your only sources then it's not really worth it as 3d is generally tacked on or results in large compromises. Using a pc however it can be fantastically immersive.

I agree with Virrux with removing the headphones if you have another option. I didn't find the inbuilt headphones that bad and I thought the surround processing actually did a decent job, however with the headphones removed the unit is lighter and feels far more comfortable when using speakers and it allows you to use separate headphones and an amp. It does mean having to use a separate source for your audio other than the hdmi. If using a pc\laptop as a source you'll get better sound out of cmss-3d headphone for games or dolby headphone for films in my opinion. You could in theory add a headphone socket but this would require soldering.

Has anyone using the hmz t1 for 3d gaming managed to use a downsampling resolution in 3D? e.g. 2048x1152 output as 720p60hz. Joefourman suggested it here. The idea is to reduce aliasing. Also with Borderlands 2 I noticed that you can actually see more detail in 1080p24, e.g. the bridge in the background to the left of the startup screen has clearly defined rails rather than the aliased black border lines.
I've been trying this to get this to work with a gtx 670 and 3dtv play but no luck so far. Given that many people are using this for pc gaming I'd thought I'd ask here. I'm not sure if the major issue is that nvidia has disabled gpu scaling with over hdmi that prevents setting a custom 3d resolution for the t1.

I've played around with this a bit It seems that the hmzt1 is capable of displaying downsampled resolutions in 3d the issue is getting the nvidia drivers to do so in stereo 3d mode. If you use the hdmi timings you can set the 3d resolutions directly and also set at least a 1080p60hz that downsamples to 720p60hz.
These will split your desktop over the 2 eyes.

1280p60hz3D

1080p24hz3D

1080p downsampled to 1280p60hz3D

My ted loves this mod.

Tried every mod going, ski goggles, welders helmet insert, cycle helmet and more, this is the best I have done. I've made some changes since I took the pics got better headphone (others gave up the ghost) and also made a non perminante mounting on the headphones so can use them without the HMZ-t1. This takes all the weight off your face not even touching and all reversable if I want to put back to stock design nothing removed that can't be put back. Quite easy to do just gota be brave. Goose necks from the pound shop headphones already had. Total cost of mod £3.

Really really brave...

Yesterday I now detail my new HMZ-T2 against my old HMZ-T1 tested. The report you can (but in German, but Google can indeed help) read our German forum page http://www.hifi-forum.de/index.php?action=browseT&forum_id=216&thread=440&postID=1661 # 1661st
Have fun
scarl

Can u publish the report in English here @AVS for all of us to understand better as translations do not work well - please

yer super super brave. You know what i mean not brave at all really wrong choice of words. its was only i've been reading threads of people scared to take it apart to remove the gear wheel.

I'll get my T1 next week. The first thing after tearing the box is to remove the gear wheel and embedded headphone. Then I can happily tell my self...BOW... a HMZ T2 for only 650 dollars. Cheers...

Surely your mod increases the amount of light leakage thus reducing the illusion of a large screen? I guess placing a black sheet over your head would help with that tho....

I can imagine that it is comfortable but it look very breakable from your pics.

Still, it's interesting to see new ideas for comfort mods,

The bear enjoys watching 3D on it

Yes it would let more light in your correct. I think you probably actually get less internal redlections which you normally get down the sides of the display which used to annoy me. If you use it in a dark room you don't get any light leakage as there would be northing to leak in. Could like you say put something over you but don't thinik I would bother, can be used fine in the day but your right you don't get the isolation you do if used in a dark room.

Guess it does look a bit breakable always take apart and store in a padded box after use, I put plastic round the PCB so things should touch this when in use. The guy who did the ski goggle mod had a problem with the PCB before and broke his HMZ so though I would cover try cover that part. Generally I don't move or bash it around a lot when using so should be ok hopefully. Would be great if it had a hard plastic case around the goggles part but that's a bit to tech for me to do. Overall I would say it is very comfortable as all the weight is sort of on top of your head. Could do with stiffer goose necks not really sure where you would get them on there own. Tried a thicker single goose neck, was too heavy and only supported the middle so moved more on the sides if you move about.

Think this would be a good way for the HMZ to be used you could maybe make some sort of side parts of the goggles part to wrap around the sides of your head stop light leakage but that all adds to the weight.

If anyone that has modded their attachment method and might want to get rid of the original head straps, let me know.

The lower rubber headstrap on my set is ripping and I need to replace it.

I was looking around at what others have been doing and figured I would show my solution as well. With the new T2 out soon it looks like they might have improved it but missed the mark again with the form over function.

http://youtu.be/_jqAtGabTWU

NIce, how did you connect the headphones?