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Sony HMZ-T1 HMD Owner's dedicated thread - Page 113

post #3361 of 3364

Hi Guys this is my first post on this thread and to be honest I am a newbe when it comes to this kind of technical work but I think the HMZ-T1 is broken, perhaps due to being modified. Any advice would be really appreciated.

 

I am using the HMD as part of my research to display visual stimuli. I modified it by attaching it to a cycle helmet to get a stable fit for many head sizes. To deal with the 10second time out I held the forehead button down using an elastic band. Once I had collected my initial set of data the HMD was left in storage for about 3-4 months but now it doesn’t seem to work. The pattern of issues is as follows:

 

·         Sometimes when it is connected to the laptop I get no operation from the HMD at all. The green light on the pass through box flashes and the computer seems to recognize that it is there because the screen resolution automatically changes but the HMD screen remains blank.

 

·         After unplugging everything, checking all the settings etc, the HMD will suddenly start working. I can get through the normal welcome, set up screens and the laptop desktop is displayed (at this point I am elated). But after 1 – 1.5 minutes the screen goes blank. It doesn’t state that there is no signal it is just blank whilst the green light on the pass through box remains on solid.

 

I’ve searched through forums etc and called sony but I haven’t found any details relating to this issue The sony rep said it sounded broken and that I should send it in. She suggested that it may need charging but alas this has not helped. As the product is out of warrantee the sony rep  advised that it may cost more to fix it than to just buy a new one :(  I am thinking about taking it apart and having a look myself. I figured that maybe the button under the head pad could be broken in some way.

 

Has anybody had a similar problem? or have any idea what the green flashing light means? If anyone has suggestions of other tests I could do to isolate the problem that would be really helpful too.

 

Apologies for the giant post I am just trying to be thorough.

 

Thanks in advance.  

post #3362 of 3364
^^^^
Sounds like the switch where the forehead pressure-pad is is not staying on. Try manually activating it by toggling it back. Also double check that all cable connections are firmly seated in their sockets.
post #3363 of 3364

Hi again

 

Thank you for the advice Paul.

 

Since my last post I have replaced all of the cables used in the set up and tried a different laptop. I have also removed the top black panel to check that the forehead button is securely reaching the small internal button but there seems to be no problem there. The parts connect fine and the small internal button appears to be intact. Then I removed the forehead button and spring completely and fixed the small internal button so that was permanently held down. Unfortunately, none of these things have rectified the problem so I am certain that the issue does not relate to output device, connecting wires or the forehead button.

 

 I've timed it a few times and I pretty much always get between 1 and 1.5 minutes of usual functioning and then a black screen. This is not accompanied by a no signal message so it seems that the signal is going in fine it just isn't being displayed.The odd thing about the fault is that it is so consistent. if there was some loose wiring or connection somewhere I would assume that the duration of normal function would be more varied. It makes me think that there is a problem with an electrical component but this certainly isn't my area of knowledge. If anyone has heard of anything similar or can offer any advice I would be very grateful! 

 

Thanks!

 

p.s. I really wish it was still under warrentee

post #3364 of 3364
Hey guys, quick (probably dumb) question.
I took my HMZ-T1 apart as due to my built (large) I had to make the lenses get further apart to remove all blurry corners. That worked fine.

While doing that I noticed that the oculus components are connected to the board with the ribbon cable and a quick release (no soldering). So my question is.....

....is there any reason why we can't use some ribbon extensions so that the entire thing can be placed in a separate breakout box and only mount the screens on a ski mask?

I suspect that the longer the cable the more signal loss you get (being DC current) but I'd like some opinions from someone who knows for sure.

Thanks
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