The Once and Future Theater - Page 7

At least you didn't let the air out of all four tires

Just kidding! That's always the story. If it's quick, and works just as good, it's gonna be expensive!


EDIT: How much space do you have between the top of your news joists and the existing ones?

No worries. I understood the general layout, but didn't remember the sizes of framing off hand. The 5" difference is what I was getting at. I was wondering if there is enough space above the new framing to put your insulation there. I'd have to double check with Ted, and reread (for the 1,000th time) about triple leafs and the like, but I can't see a reason why the insulation has to be directly on top of the drywall on your ceiling. You're going to have a cavity not filled with insulation anyway, you might as well make it easy on yourself with regard to where you put the insulation.

All that said, 5" might be pushing it a bit for R19.

EDIT" I should have asked how much space between the top of the new joists and the floor above (5" from your previous post). Sorry.

Yes. IIRC, Ted only recommends R19 in your ceiling regardless of the cavity depth. My understanding is that after 6.5" of insulation, you reach the point of diminishing returns, and filling the remaining space does little. (You probably know all that, just making sure we're on the same page).

The issue is whether or not compressing the insulation at the top of each of your new joists reduces the efficacy appreciably. Ted question, maybe?

If Ted gives the nod, you could probably put your insulation up there (above the new joists), and then come back with a razor knife and cut the insulation so that it can fluff back up around the top of the joist. You could use the joist as a guide and just run the knife right down along side it. Lickity split. Easy for me to say, right

Have you checked with your local Home Depot? I seem to remember that some of them have drywall lifts. Not sure about the price, their site doesn't seem to be working (at least, not for the internets here is L.A.).

If you are prepared to get everything done in one day, I would suggest just renting the tool. The 24 hour rate here is about $20. If you feel you have to own it, why not check out Craigslist? I have seen a bunch from $75 to $100 in used but excellent condition. Buy it, use it and then sell it on to the next person for what you paid for it.

This will sound rude, but I hope you know I don't mean it that way

Just kidding I think we've all had days like that. Better to find out now than when you're getting ready to stuff your insulation up there. You might still give Ted a call and see if he has any suggestions before you go to too much trouble. If you think about it, in a double stud wall, you're going to have a small gap where insulation is stuffed behind the offset 2x.

It may be a bit of overkill (see my signature below), but if you have three inches above the joists you could just use an unfaced R13 laying flat above the theater joist and completely filling the original joist bay. You could then just take unfaced R19 to cut and stuff on either side of the theater joists. I think you would even end up with a small air gap between the R19 and the R13 which would be ideal. Just a thought. [EDIT: fixed iPad "autocorrect"]
Edited by TMcG - 9/5/12 at 3:58am

TMcG beat me to it. I had similar thoughts last night. It doesn't save you from having to cut a bunch of insulation, but sometimes the worrying over how much trouble it will be is worse than actually doing it. Again, easy for me to say

There's really nothing to it. Once you have the measurements for the size piece you need, simply measure that size on a batt on the floor, adding about 1/2" in all dimensions so you get a snug fit when installed. Using a level, 2x4 or something similar as a straight edge, simply press down the 2x4 onto the insulation to compress the batt and make your cut with a sharp razor blade. All pieces hold themselves in position with friction fit, just keep the fiberglass as fluffy as possible when installed. Very easy. Nothing to be afraid of, should take you about 1/2 a day to do the whole ceiling in your room with as many cuts as you have to make for the R19 layer is you go with the two-layer approach.

Get a little Captain in ya and get goin'!!!

FWIW the JM batts are coming pre-scored lengthwise now. You just tear them. I did note that in my bundle not all of them were scored.

Once you get into batt-cutting-mode it's not that bad. The worst part is getting psyched up to actually do it.

Tim

I would also invest in a couple of protective "bunny suits", plus respirator and latex free gloves to preserve dexterity: http://www.constructiongear.com/3m-disposable-protective-coverall-4540.html?utm_source=googlepepla&utm_medium=adwords&id=22942695690&utm_content=pla&gclid=CNSs1-azn7ICFYOc7QodOkEAQA

Nice vid.. I may just do one myself

Looking good. Regarding the bowed stud, I would probably remove and replace it. If it's bowed that much finishing the drywall will not be fun.

If I weren't going to do that, I would probably glue that shim in, which may or may not be the right thing to do.. but it would be the Tim thing to do

Definitely need more clearance on the plumbing, I can imagine the noise from the pipe would transmit to the wall.

Tim

Once you get the front and rear walls sheathed, a lot of the side-to-side movement will be mitigated. I would still be worried about the stud slapping the wall, though. I would put something in there to soften the blow.. Maybe just squirt some green glue or acoustical sealant in there?

Tim

Fred - just get yourself a cold chisel and a 3 or 5 pound sledge and go to work knocking down those high sections of the foundation wall that may touch because you framed it so close. Hopefully your wall PSI is not too obscenely high that it will be difficult, but it really shouldn't take that long and is inexpensive to do.

Second, one thing that jumped out at me immediately was the amount of space you designated for your equipment rack. I can tell from the video that this area is WAY too shallow. Any decent amplifier or receiver is going to be 17-20" deep and then you must allow for another 3 or so inches at an absolute minimum for wiring and cable connections with a smooth radius against the wall. That being said, and to stay on an ultra-thin budget.....I would simply remove the studs to the immediate right of the theater entrance and make a 19.5" width rough opening at the appropriate racking height to hold all of your equipment. You would then just purchase rack rails and mount them to the painted studding (least expensive) or allow a bit more width to line with some 1x4 material and attach to that and the studding on either side. Either way that now gets you your rack rails. Then I would simply frame in a door to what is currently open to your equipment room for access to the back of the equipment for wiring. So as you are walking into the room just outside your theater, there would be a door immediately on your right and as you start to walk into the theater, all the equipment will be on your right just before you get through the theater door.

Perhaps this is premature, but it also appears you need some drywall (OSB) blocking at the front of the room near the ceiling.

And Mr. Tim is right.....break you the sawzall and get to work making a bit more clearance for those plumbing pipes- at least 1/2" if not 3/4" minimum.

Glad to hear the cold chisel is going to work. You gotta love when a fix to a problem is cheap, effective and relatively easy to do.

Regarding the rack. Two rack rails need to be precisely 19 1/8" width. Given your gap of 20", this difference is doable with shims, but probably better to add 3/4" dimensional lumber to one die or the other to bring your gap closer. You can get a perfect width by purchasing at least three 1U, 2u or 3U blank or vent panels for the top, middle and bottom of the rack rails so it can be installed as one single rigid and square unit. Once mounted to the framing, simply remove your blanks and load with shelves, vents, etc. as-needed. I have to tell you, most people think you have to go with some big, expensive rack - that's just not the case. Two rack rails and picking up a handful of shelves off eBay or second-hand outlets is cheap and efficient. In fact, many times the total cost ends up being cheaper and provides a much nicer final result. I will tell you this - once you have a professional racking system, you will NEVER go back to anything else to store a significant amount of equipment. Please just don't forget to provide ventilation for this equipment closet!!! :D

Good luck embiggening! Cheers!