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The Once and Future Theater - Page 33

post #961 of 1066
Quote:
Originally Posted by HopefulFred View Post

Clearly, the possibilities are basically limitless. I may do several the same, or all different, or mirror images on the left and right - who knows?

Dang, that looks really cool... cool.gif
post #962 of 1066
How's this? 1/2" to 1/8" NPT reducer.



Combine that with the fittings Spaceman linked to, and you can use one of the threaded lamp holders that have a 1/8" IPS fitting (I think). BTW, I've seen those threaded lamp tubes in the specialty fastener section at Lowes or Home Depot in the past. They may not still be there, but I'd be wiling to bet you can find them somewhere locally. You can probably find the brass reducer as well. The part store I worked at in high school had a pretty wide selection of brass fittings as well.
post #963 of 1066
Thread Starter 
I appreciate the feedback guys. How about some more... smile.gif

The threaded rod is readily available at the hardware store, and the pipe caps are as well. I suppose I could work something out with those. Drill hole in cap, insert pipe (either tap threads in cap or sue lock nuts, but then I have to use a whole socket with cover and everything... not a bad option if I need to, but I think I can be more elegant with a different solution (fewer parts, less work)

Browsing Lowe's again, I find that the plastic candelabra base (E12) will almost perfectly cram right into the couplings I have. (Sounds great right?) I think it would actually cut some threads into the outside of the base if I were to work it in. It would deserve some adhesive I'm sure - though I'm not sure what it should be exactly - but it would fit it with little modification. (Did you know that a hickey was a real thing?)
http://www.lowes.com/pd_75605-37672-884446_0__?productId=3379476


If I went with a standard base socket, it wouldn't really fit into any of the pipes. I might be able to get it into a 1" coupling, but that sucks - there would be a bunch of adapters and really mess up the look, IMO. The full on lamp base with socket is about 1.25" wide.

Luckily, Bulbrite and Feit Electric (and others) make candelabra base Edison bulbs. http://www.bulbrite.com/products_en_5_38_449_0_0-miniNostalgic-Collection.php http://www.feit.com/vintage_bulbs/bp7st12 Bulbrite seems to have a nice variety - the challenge will be finding them. There's only a couple sellers on Amazon. I've found information for a local lighting shop listed as a seller for Bulbrite. I'll call and see if they can order me a case or something.

I like this solution because it's simpler. The pipe ends at a coupler - either straight or bent - and the socket is just built into it. It should look like the bulb is just screwed into the pipe. There are a couple things I need to consider about this. First, I need to be sure that this is done safely, obviously. I don't need any shock or fire hazards (I hope that didn't need saying). Along those lines, I'm not sure how best to wire together several lamps (bulbs) into the same fixture, but I'll work that out. Second, there is not provision for a shade or cage in this design. I could probably integrate one, but not without rebuilding... I'll need to think that through before I finalize anything.

Also, J_P_A or whoever - what does IPS mean in this context? I've seen it several places today, and I can't figure out what it means. My best guess is Ion Plated Steel, but that doesn't really make sense to me.
post #964 of 1066
I believe it is Iron Pipe Size, but that's just based on today's readings with regard to lamp fittings smile.gif I believe it will work with NPT fittings.
post #965 of 1066
I had to laugh when the page opened and I saw "Pipe, Nipples, & Rod" biggrin.gif
post #966 of 1066
Thread Starter 
It's always a party around here, Bill. smile.gif
post #967 of 1066
Thread Starter 
There's good news and bad news.

The good news is I found a simple solution to fitting a candelabra base socket into a 1/2" pipe. Just put it in there... I should have bought one when I first started fiddling the other day, but it's actually good I didn't, because I didn't find the small version without the hickey until today.


This is what I bought. It doesn't have a hickey, and was on sale - which means I paid $0.95 for it instead of $2.70, but I bet that also means they won't restock them - at least not at $0.95. I'm sure I can find more. And if I can't, I'll break the hickey off the more expensive ones. It fits in nicely. I had to force it back out of the sample I assembled with some pliers. I thought I was going to break it pushing it out. I'll still glue it in somehow to make it secure, but it won't need any adapter and sits flush - so I'm super satisfied with that.



Here begins the bad news: The socket won't fit in any curved pipe. So arrangements like this are impossible - at least as shown. Extensions would be needed on the ends.


Also, the bulbs are expensive. I knew that going in, but I hoped that the candelabra base would be less expensive. MSRP from Bulbrite, which is what I am pretty sure I'll use at this point, is around $13.00 per bulb, depending on design. I went to one of bulbrite's Atlanta area retailers today, and they were willing to special order - even drop-ship - my small and custom order at a discount. Still, the order comes to more than $600. This would get me 65 bulbs - which is a lot. Follow me here...

It was suggested by a lighting designer at the retailer I visited that I would want about 800W of incandescents to fully light my space (12x22 I told him) for cleaning and such. 800W means 32 bulbs (25W each). Since I've got 8 sconces, that works out to 4 bulbs per sconce pretty nicely. So 65 bulbs is a case of each of Bulbrite's 5 designs. 25 T6 bulbs, 10 AT15 bulbs with a "thread" filament, 10 AT15 bulbs with a "loop" filament, 10 ST15 bulbs with a "thread" filament, and 10 ST15 bulbs with a "spiral" filament. So that is one full set to install, one full set for back up, and one extra T6... If you want explanation of those designations, click here and then hover with your mouse over the ordering codes that you can find at the bottom of the page in the technical specifications area.

Obviously, I don't have to order it that way, but I like the variety. It gives me enough design flexibility and design tools while still giving me a design box to work in. I lack creativity and vision when it comes to this sort of stuff, so having some rules like - 'use 5 AT15 bulbs with "thread" filaments somewhere in these 8 fixtures' gives me a problem to solve instead of a design to originate - I can work from within that box, so to speak.
post #968 of 1066
I have 6 LED cans which are 60 Watt equivalent and 8 sconce with LED screw in bulbs which are also 60 Watt equivalent. My room is 19x23 and 840 watts really lights it up
post #969 of 1066
Thread Starter 
I wondered about that. I appreciate the feedback - I may back down by 150-200 watts. I will have a single small can light at the door as well as some track lighting for the screen which I hadn't accounted for.

I'm glad you got me reconsidering. Three or four bulbs at the screen should be good for about 200W. The sconces probably don't need more than about 500W. That's only 20 bulbs, so much better.
post #970 of 1066
Thread Starter 
Actually, two bulbs per sconce would be 16 bulbs - 400W. Plus 150 or so at the screen (track lighting) plus 50or so in the door can is 600W total. That might be enough. Maybe I will sneak in two or four more bulbs by making some of the sconces three bulbs instead of two.
post #971 of 1066
LEDs are very nice!
post #972 of 1066
Quote:
Originally Posted by HopefulFred View Post

I wondered about that. I appreciate the feedback - I may back down by 150-200 watts. I will have a single small can light at the door as well as some track lighting for the screen which I hadn't accounted for.

I'm glad you got me reconsidering. Three or four bulbs at the screen should be good for about 200W. The sconces probably don't need more than about 500W. That's only 20 bulbs, so much better.
2 of my 6 cans are screen wash as well. With just the 6 cans on 360 Watts still light up the space good enough to do most things. If I am measuring and stuff I turn them all on so I think you are good.
post #973 of 1066
Quote:
Originally Posted by ellisr63 View Post

LEDs are very nice!
every can in my house has LED bulb in it the rest of my lighting is CFL except the lights over the mirrors in the bath
post #974 of 1066
Thread Starter 
"Except the lights over the mirrors in the bath." Indeed. In situations where color temp are expected to produce a certain look, there still is not a good substitute for incandescent, IMO. They get better all the time, but the Edison bulbs are an important part of the design aesthetic I'm shooting for, there's really no substitute at all for me.
post #975 of 1066
Quote:
Originally Posted by ellisr63 View Post

LEDs are very nice!

I agree; I just wish there was a better option for dimmable bulbs -- if there is, I haven't found it... yet...
post #976 of 1066
I certainly like the direction LEDs are going, but I don't see them fitting with the aesthetic that HF is shooting for. To me, anyway, being able to see the filament is a necessity in a steampunk light design.
post #977 of 1066
Quote:
Originally Posted by J_P_A View Post

I certainly like the direction LEDs are going, but I don't see them fitting with the aesthetic that HF is shooting for. To me, anyway, being able to see the filament is a necessity in a steampunk light design.

Yeah it is going to me hard to make one that looks like a normal bulb with a filament... This is the closest I have found. I think it would be possible but you would have to take the bulb apart and install flat LED chips in the screw in part of the bulb and then you will not get quite the light output you desire. Maybe you could make the filament out of ELwire?
post #978 of 1066
Thread Starter 
For a variety of reasons, I need to get a good number for the costs remaining for this build. I'm gonna lay this out here - feel free to ignore it, but I would be glad for a review and any suggestions for stuff I have left out.

Theater only:

- $500 Assorted construction materials - a few more sheets of plywood, OSB, more insulation, some lumber for proscenium and screen wall, plus rack closet
- $250 Door and hardware (seals and jambs already on hand)
- $1000 Wood for walls - approximately 500 sqft
- $850 Light fixtures and bulbs (8 fixtures and 30 bulbs)
- $250 Track lighting and single can light
- $350 Screen (DIY Center Stage XD)
- $3500 Projector and mount - hush box +$100
- $750 EP4000 amps (2) and miniDSP 2x4
- $100 assorted cables I don't have already (maybe more?)
- $400 rack finishing, shelves, faceplates, power distribution
- $800 4 surround loudspeakers (probably DIYSoundgroup V10 coaxials, or maybe sealed version of Fusion 10 Pure +$200)
- $500 materials for acoustic treatments
- $3500 seat (6x fusion jive with accessories)
- $300 ceiling drywall finishing
- $100 paint

So far this get's me to around $14,500. These prices are just off-the-top-of-my-head type prices. I have tried to be realistic and include overruns and shipping, but I'm not sure. I know that there is at least one major item left off - carpet. I have no idea what to budget. I know that there is a pretty wide range (as with projectors) where I could save some money. Ballpark idea from anyone? 12x23 floorspace, with riser and stage - I think that'll work out to around 9 yards (just guessing).

There's still a whole other room to finish aside from this, including sink, flooring, cabinetry, refrigerator, table, seating, etc. Probably another $5000 pretty easily. Does anyone think I'm way off on any of these line items?
post #979 of 1066
I have a link to a pretty detailed cost breakdown on the first page of my thread, including carpet. It might be of some use.
post #980 of 1066
Fabric to cover acoustic treatments and front walls....maybe $500. I'd also estimate carpet to be $800 bare bones minimum to $2500+ for the really fancy stuff.

The most glaring omission I see is all forms of alcohol - that can run into the thousands!! tongue.gif
post #981 of 1066
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by TMcG View Post

The most glaring omission I see is all forms of alcohol - that can run into the thousands!! tongue.gif
I might never stop paying... smile.gif
post #982 of 1066
Quote:
Originally Posted by HopefulFred View Post

For a variety of reasons, I need to get a good number for the costs remaining for this build. I'm gonna lay this out here - feel free to ignore it, but I would be glad for a review and any suggestions for stuff I have left out.

Theater only:

- $500 Assorted construction materials - a few more sheets of plywood, OSB, more insulation, some lumber for proscenium and screen wall, plus rack closet
- $250 Door and hardware (seals and jambs already on hand)
- $1000 Wood for walls - approximately 500 sqft
- $850 Light fixtures and bulbs (8 fixtures and 30 bulbs)
- $250 Track lighting and single can light
- $350 Screen (DIY Center Stage XD)
- $3500 Projector and mount - hush box +$100
- $750 EP4000 amps (2) and miniDSP 2x4
- $100 assorted cables I don't have already (maybe more?)
- $400 rack finishing, shelves, faceplates, power distribution
- $800 4 surround loudspeakers (probably DIYSoundgroup V10 coaxials, or maybe sealed version of Fusion 10 Pure +$200)
- $500 materials for acoustic treatments
- $3500 seat (6x fusion jive with accessories)
- $300 ceiling drywall finishing
- $100 paint

So far this get's me to around $14,500. These prices are just off-the-top-of-my-head type prices. I have tried to be realistic and include overruns and shipping, but I'm not sure. I know that there is at least one major item left off - carpet. I have no idea what to budget. I know that there is a pretty wide range (as with projectors) where I could save some money. Ballpark idea from anyone? 12x23 floorspace, with riser and stage - I think that'll work out to around 9 yards (just guessing).

There's still a whole other room to finish aside from this, including sink, flooring, cabinetry, refrigerator, table, seating, etc. Probably another $5000 pretty easily. Does anyone think I'm way off on any of these line items?

If you are looking to knock it down... I don't know what kind of cables you are looking at but you could go to Monoprice to buy or go to Monoprice and buy what you need to make your own.
post #983 of 1066
Quote:
Originally Posted by HopefulFred View Post

So far this get's me to around $14,500. These prices are just off-the-top-of-my-head type prices. I have tried to be realistic and include overruns and shipping, but I'm not sure. I know that there is at least one major item left off - carpet. I have no idea what to budget. I know that there is a pretty wide range (as with projectors) where I could save some money. Ballpark idea from anyone? 12x23 floorspace, with riser and stage - I think that'll work out to around 9 yards (just guessing).

There's still a whole other room to finish aside from this, including sink, flooring, cabinetry, refrigerator, table, seating, etc. Probably another $5000 pretty easily. Does anyone think I'm way off on any of these line items?

And after figuring out all those.... multiply the sum by pi and you'll have a reasonable figure to budget against....
post #984 of 1066
Thread Starter 
I hope not...
post #985 of 1066
HF, you are depressing me, sir!
post #986 of 1066
Thread Starter 
J_P_A - do you have a similar list going?

It could be worse - you could be building the theater near where I work - it's the one in the house that TMZ says the Biebs is considering moving into. I bet it's an Erskine design (He lives not too far from here as well).
post #987 of 1066
I don't have such a list. I'm only keeping track of things after the fact (and I'm surprised at how hight that's gotten already). Outside of that, I prefer to just close my eyes and hope for the best. I've got too much invested to look back now smile.gif Which reminds me, I need to add my lighting controls to my spreadsheet……. Thanks, HF. Thanks biggrin.gif

That's a heck of a house. I would say I'm glad I don't have to clean it, but I doubt the Biebs has to either.
post #988 of 1066
That list makes me glade my builder delivered all of my materiel and rolled it into the house. All I paid out of pocket was the sound proofing stuff, cables, wires, and some paint. Even the special order door and carpet was included rolled into the house. cool.gif
post #989 of 1066
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by cw5billwade View Post

That list makes me glad my builder delivered all of my materiel and rolled it into the house.
Figuring out some way to finance this expediently and affordably is part of why I posted. I'm investigating and needed to come up with a ball-park number, so I figured I'd post it. Maybe nothing will come of it, but if I manage it you'll know - work will resume in earnest! wink.gif
post #990 of 1066
Home equity line of credit?
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