LG Plasma Panel tweaks for better blacks. - Page 38

Speaking of meters, I haven't used one since I got out of the game as a professional consultant for pro photographers and desktop publishing in 2005, the consumer Eye-One and Spyders were just hitting the market so we depended on spectrometers, which were very expensive at that time.
How do the newer consumer models hold up these days and their measuring range, might pick one up if their life span is more than a year or so.

Thanks guys,

Any major advantages between the old and newer "1"s, except price?
(guess I could just be lazy and look it up but the forums are more fun)

I tweaked the PX950 THX setting slightly by eye and to my trained eye (over 30+ years in pro photography, desktop publishing and digital imaging) and IMHO experience it's pretty good but a meter always helps especially in the upper and lower spectrum, but I'm really curios to get a reading on that current MLL.

Big Brother is watching.

(Canon G10 Netflix/ATV2- Tim Roth's Lie to me opening sequence)

But I'm sure someone here has a copy

Thanks Owen

I've seen these but they are very different from the training manuals, which give you a step by step pictorial view of the panel adjustments.

Hi redness44

For time being I would leave the set as is, take TXSTYLE's advice and possible calibrate your set and see how you like the overall image which should be an a nice upgrade from the 10 year old rear projection.
Like TXSTYLE I was very happy with my stock PX950, blacks were more than acceptable but the overall PQ was why I chose my set in the first place over the other sets.
Now having said that just when I thought the picture wouldn't get better I took the plunge (I'm a tweaker at heart) and tweaked my set, all I can say there is no going back.
But.... if I had never discovered there was a means to lowering the MLL on the LG plasmas I would still have been content.

So how do you like your new LG 60pv250?

I do not see why they would, but if they have been listening their sets should be coming off the assembly line with an average + - MLL of .004 and no IR.

Hi redness44

There is a lot of info available for calibration but at this point I would just adjust your contrast and brightness to 50 for the first week or two, it will look duller but it's just to equalize the phosphors and keep image retention at a minimal, after which contrast at 80 and brightness at 50-55 should be fine.

Then if you're are interested in basic calibration you might want to pickup up a copy of DVE http://www.amazon.com/Digital-Video-...tag=gmgamzn-20, Spears and Munsil calibration disc http://www.amazon.com/Spears-High-De...1311050&sr=1-1 or the Disney WOW http://www.amazon.com/Disney-WOW-Wor.../dp/B0045ASBLG , all will guide you through step by step.

Hi Guys

Just an update, as most of you may remember I only tweaked the Set_up to lower my MLL and I do get massive misfires on my PX950 on start up when the room was cold and then it would completely clear up after about a minute or so, keep in mind that during that minute blacks were at or close to zero black but too noisy for practical viewing.
Well the temperature is starting to rise with the spring but oddly enough I’m now experiencing random (but not excessive) red pixel misfires even after warm up, this may be from the fact that there is less of a temperature difference after start up and the temperature sensors are keeping the overall panel MLL at a lower level as blacks have gotten blacker but bordering on the level closer as to when turning on the set in a cold room.
Another scenario may be that the power supply voltages have shifted slightly but my intuition says it’s probably the former.
At this point the misfires are not obvious from the viewing position and appear not to be stationary, being more like random stuck pixels which disappear as the screen is refreshed so I may wait until we approach the lazy days of summer and see if the MLL continues to drop but unfortunately most likely with even more misfires but I'll have to wait and see.
At which point if they do I may need to get out the screwdrivers again and try tweaking the Set-up a bit counter-clockwise and maybe try the Set-dn, I’d rather leave the power supply voltages at the factory settings to adjust the MLL, (not a lot mind you, more like the ST/GT30s and not VT30 blacks), just enough to keep the misfires to a minimum.
Either way I’ll keep you all up to date.