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LG Plasma Panel tweaks for better blacks. - Page 5

post #121 of 1330
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by ehgz1 View Post

Also my PK540 doesn't have a VS pot but I did see one labeled VSC. Is that the same thing?? Not sure what that one does and I haven't tried to change it.

The VS would be on the power supply board, page 38 if your using the PK250 training manual.
http://136.166.4.200/contents/Displa...esentation.pdf

And just to quote Turrican's finding again

This is what you might get with the seven pots, if you set it too much clockwise or counterclockwise:

VZB____: noise (clockwise) or dullness (counterclockwise)
Vs_____: noisy whites/pixelmissfires (clockwise) or dullness/extreme pixelmissfires (counterclockwise)
VA_____: none obvious erros but possible pixelmissfires with static fullgreen screen (clockwise)
VSC____: None obvious errors or artifacts
Vy_____: noise/less MLL (clockwise) or better MLL (counterclockwise)
Set_Up_: pixelmissfires/better MLL (clockwise) or bad MLL (counterclockwise)
Set_Dn_: noise/better MLL (clockwise) or bad MLL
post #122 of 1330
I'm kind of bummed i craiglisted my 50px950. I owned it for almost 6 months & i had a tech come out to correct some of the line bleed issues. I remember all the screws he took off to remove the panel. It was like 23 or 4 i think. But i showed him turrican's posts & he declined to do the adjustments, and i even tried to sway him with some green & he wouldn't budge.

I'm now a owner of Samsung UN55D6400, which cost almost $500 more than what i paid for the px. I really liked the px's styling, 1 sheet of glass. The 6400 is a very nice panel too, esthestically pleasing to the eyes.
post #123 of 1330
Quote:
Originally Posted by rob80b View Post

The VS would be on the power supply board, page 38 if your using the PK250 training manual.

Thanks for that info! I will try again tomorrow now that I know where the VS adjustment is.
post #124 of 1330
after watching movies and playing games all weekend, I am impressed with this tv. The new black levels are nearly inky. Concert blurays where performers are playing in the dark with contrasting light, it really does look like you're looking though the window. Even when the LG screen saver is on, the black background looks really black. I hope this black level doesn't get lighter again. Have fallin back in love.
post #125 of 1330
Quote:
Originally Posted by Goatse View Post

after watching movies and playing games all weekend, I am impressed with this tv. The new black levels are nearly inky. Concert blurays where performers are playing in the dark with contrasting light, it really does look like you're looking though the window. Even when the LG screen saver is on, the black background looks really black. I hope this black level doesn't get lighter again. Have fallin back in love.

Do you notice a difference if your watching a show in 1080/24 or 1080/60?
post #126 of 1330
Quote:
Originally Posted by ratm View Post

Do you notice a difference if your watching a show in 1080/24 or 1080/60?

they both look good to me, I haven't tried the same blurays in 60/24.
post #127 of 1330
I too have taken the plunge, and here are my results.

MUCH better everything. More detail, def. deeper blacks. Hardest thing was getting the panel off (sliced my finger in the process). Tuned it watching TS3 in HD off of directv. Had my wife watching as I did the following.

1. Turned Set-Up full clockwise. Soon as I did that, my wife was like woah, the color just got so much better (I interpret this as deeper blacks as she really wouldnt be able to compare).

2. Turned Vy as short and curly counterclockwise. She noticed no difference.

As I came around to see, I noticed VERY dark blacks but also some darker pixels sporatically around the screen. So I then..

3. Turned Vy back to original position.

Went back to watch and still noticed some pixelation, but not as much. Then I...

4. Turned Set-Up counterclockwise about 2 mm.

That was it. Pixelation was gone and deep blacks remained. Any other change or benefit that I might achieve after this will most likely be psychosematically anyways. VERY happy with this mod. In fact it was the first mod I have ever done.
post #128 of 1330
Thread Starter 
So far it looks like those who are faint of heart have been successful with just adjusting the Set_up, which makes sense seeing that is the pot which LG clearly state as the procedure for adjusting the black level.
Adjusting the other pots mentioned appears to be a bit trickier, but may result in even a lower MLL.
Overall I'd say the majority have been pleased with the results.

Thanks for the input guys.
post #129 of 1330
Quote:
Originally Posted by rob80b View Post

So far it looks like those who are faint of heart have been successful with just adjusting the Set_up, which makes sense seeing that is the pot which LG clearly state as the procedure for adjusting the black level.
Adjusting the other pots mentioned appears to be a bit trickier, but may result in even a lower MLL.
Overall I'd say the majority have been pleased with the results.

Thanks for the input guys.

Thank you Rob. If it wasnt for you starting this thread, I would have never even thought of doing it.
post #130 of 1330
Quote:
Originally Posted by rob80b View Post

So far it looks like those who are faint of heart have been successful with just adjusting the Set_up, which makes sense seeing that is the pot which LG clearly state as the procedure for adjusting the black level.
Adjusting the other pots mentioned appears to be a bit trickier, but may result in even a lower MLL.
Overall I'd say the majority have been pleased with the results.

Thanks for the input guys.

Your turn now, join the club
post #131 of 1330
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by ratm View Post

Thank you Rob. If it wasnt for you starting this thread, I would have never even thought of doing it.

Thanks ratm, but I believe we need to thank Turrican4D and a few others who are keeping Manufactures on their toes by scrutinizing their products.
The irony is that I've yet to do my own displays so at this point I'm only the messenger, but anytime we can modify a stock product to improve on it's performance I'm all for it.
post #132 of 1330
My guess is that people with more hours on their tv can turn the set_up all the way. Maybe newer tvs with less hours on them still hasn't had the ramp up. Think my tv with 2500+ hours is more than others here since the pk950 is almost two years old.
post #133 of 1330
Quote:
Originally Posted by Goatse View Post

My guess is that people with more hours on their tv can turn the set_up all the way. Maybe newer tvs with less hours on them still hasn't had the ramp up. Think my tv with 2500+ hours is more than others here since the pk950 is almost two years old.

is there any way to find out how many hours a TV has on it? Service Menu?
post #134 of 1330
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by ratm View Post

is there any way to find out how many hours a TV has on it? Service Menu?

Hi ratm

Try pressing the menu button then press the small red button (not the power button), should bring up the service menu, scroll down to the service info where you'll see your current firmware, ser # and hours of use.
post #135 of 1330
Thread Starter 
For those who are curious as to what exactly is being accomplished should acquaint themselves with the thread Zero Black Level PDP Research http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1291382 and check the links to different patents.

As noted as pertaining to LG
Quote:
"Originally Posted by Display R&D Lab., LG Electronics Inc Real black” plasma display panels (PDPs) having a background luminance of zero cd/m2 must be realized to obtain high picture quality. PDPs, however, must have reset discharges to initialize cell conditions, regardless of expressing any of the gray levels. The light emission from the reset discharges becomes a background luminance, degrading the picture quality having low luminance levels. A technique of substituting the role of the reset discharges is proposed for 50-in. full-HD PDPs. With this technique an infinite dark-room contrast ratio is obtained. However, it has the problem of the discharge delay. A solution to this was proposed by using the frame reset or the minimum surface reset discharge and selective reset. ©2010 Society for Information Display"


The Pioneer link gives a good insight in what needs to be accomplished in order to produce a better perceived black level.
PIONEER (ECC) Patent Application #20070241995 (source D-Nice)
http://appft1.uspto.gov/netacgi/nph-...RS=20070241995
post #136 of 1330
So I am loving the new mod. In a sense, it is like I am looking at a new TV. I popped in the Matrix bluray via my PS3. In the scene where Morpheus first takes neo into the Matrix and they are set among the all white screen, I noticed some grainy looking noise (I guess thats what its called). It is the only time I have noticed this. It's very minor, and not something that I would even change if it was more than minor. I am wondering if others are seeing this?

Also, I haven't changed my settings. As of right now, they are

Contrast 92
Brightness. 52
H Sharpness 44
V sharpness 46
color 60
tint 0
dynamic contrast off
noise reduction off
gamma medium
black level low
color gamut standard
edge enhancer off
White balance warm
method 20 point ire
pattern outer
ire 5
red -35
green -21
blue -20
red color 0
red tint 4
green color -6
green tint -2
blue color -5
blue tint -3
yellow color -2
yellow tint -1
cyan color -2
cyan tint -4
magenta color -1
magenta tint -19

This is in almost total darkness during the day and in total darkness at night. Did anyone adjust their settings AFTER modifying their TV? Also, can anyone advise on my settings? Would making any adjustments take care of the minor noise that I mentioned be fixed with a change? Are my settings out of whack anyhow?

Thanks!
post #137 of 1330
Thread Starter 
Probably just a bit of dithering (within the film transfer) and not a result of the Set-up adjustment which in theory shouldn't affect your white levels, you might try dropping your contrast down to about 80 as any artifacts are usually more apparent at the extremes.
Do you see the noise if you do a white wash.
post #138 of 1330
Quote:
Originally Posted by rob80b View Post

Probably just a bit of dithering (within the film transfer) and not a result of the Set-up adjustment which in theory shouldn't affect your white levels, you might try dropping your contrast down to about 80 as any artifacts are usually more apparent at the extremes.
Do you see the noise if you do a white wash.

I feel like such a tard, but how do I do that?
post #139 of 1330
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by ratm View Post

I feel like such a tard, but how do I do that?

Ok grab the remote, push menu, Options, ISM method, you'll have four options, scroll down to white wash, enter then hit the exit button.
Once your done you may want to go back to the ISM Method and put it on orbiter to prevent any burn-in.
post #140 of 1330
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by bhazard View Post

Your turn now, join the club

I was set to do it Monday but my son was home sick, and of course he spent the day watching TV.
post #141 of 1330
Holy crap, I just realized my color was set at 60. Does that sound about right?
post #142 of 1330
Does anyone know if this can be done to a pz550?
post #143 of 1330
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fsuhammond View Post

Does anyone know if this can be done to a pz550?

Yep.
post #144 of 1330
Would the procedure be identical?
post #145 of 1330
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fsuhammond View Post

Would the procedure be identical?

Yep.

Same labeled pots, probably different placement. Service Manuals in the first few threads I believe.
post #146 of 1330
Thread Starter 
Here is another post for those who are interested in what is required to produce a lower MLL or APL, although the topic deals with Panasonic's "floating blacks" the information is insightful and gives a better understanding to what the Set_up, VS, VY, etc adjustments are actually doing.
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...php?p=19611788

Quote:
Originally Posted by xrox View Post

FLOATING BLACKS EXPLAINED

Post created as a place to compile information describing the cause and reason for floating blacks. So far 4 patents describing the issue (aka – feature) are posted. The post is linked in the Zero Black Thread.

Brief Version

Effect - Black level changes depending on APL of screen (APL=Average Picture Level))
Cause - The number of all-cell initialization pulses are changed depending on APL
Reason - At high APL the panel impedence causes a voltage drop (due to higher current) and pixels may start to misfire so an additional all-cell initializatin is peformed to compensate (re-priming the cells)
Why Only Panasonic - Other manufacturers just raise address voltage or width to compensate which impacts panel efficiency



Detailed Version

The phenomenon we see is an abrupt change in black level depending on the content on the screen. This is especially noticeable in black bar areas and while watching in low ambient light.

Below is some definitions to know before reading the patent literature.
  • APL is the Average Picture Level (think of it as the % of the screen at full white)

  • Initialization is the process where the pixel cell is prepared for stable operation (discharged in order to produce priming electrons (think “pre-discharge”) and discharged in order to create wall charge)

  • All-Cell Initialization is when every pixel is initialized regardless if they are to be used or not (main contribution to black level)

  • Selective Cell Initialization is when only cells to be used to emit light are initialized (no contribution to black level)

  • Discharge start voltage is the voltage threshold at which discharge occurs above this voltage and no discharge occurs below this voltage.


Description of Panasonic REAL BLACK DRIVE (Panasonic)
  • 1 or 2 "all cell" initialization periods (every subpixel is initialized no matter what) depending on APL.
  • All other subfields use "selective" initialization periods (only pixels that have previously generated a subfield)
  • see end of post for more detail

Panasonic Patent application #20090021452 (same patent that describes rising blacks)


Describes how the black level will shift at 6% APL (becomes darker below 6% APL and brighter above 6% APL). Notice the one large single pulse (initialization) for the <6% case and 2 large pulses for >6%APL case.



Patent also says that if a hysteresis characteristic is applied there will be two thresholds at 5% and 7% that will lessen the number of black level shifts. Black level become higher above 7% APL (2 all-cell initializations used) and then become darker below 5% (1 all-cell initialization used).

The patent does not clearly state the reason it is necessary. The patent does seem to suggest that the intended feature is a stable picture with higher contrast at lower APL (where it is important). The perceivable brightness shifting is an unwanted byproduct.



Panasonic Patent application #20100253673

Describes the use of a combination of no initialization (ZERO BLACKl) and REAL-BLACK-DRIVING (all-cell and selective cell initialiation). More specifically at least half the frames will be displayed by using no initialization (zero black) and the other half displayed by REAL-BLACK (1 initialization+selective initialization). To overcome stability issues with this method they change the address pulse width based on the ratio of zero black frames and REAL-BLACK frames used.

But if you read claim 3 you see that the ratio of these two methods is changed based on APL which again will create floating black levels.

The patent does seems to finally describe WHY floating blacks is required on Panasonic designs.
In easier to understand terms the panel has resistance and thus when a lot of pixels are lit (aka – high APL) the voltage drops closer to the discharge start voltage (see definitions start of post) . When this occurs the discharge delay goes up and the discharge probability goes down. The pixels may start to misfire. To compensate for this the panel uses an extra all-cell initialization because it provides extra priming particles that lower the discharge start voltage to a value that compensates for the voltage drop described above.

Figure 11 from the patent - see description below

FIG 11 description : Think of the vertical axis as the time (address voltage pulse width) required to achieve stable addressing. And the horizontal axis as the time after all-cell initialization. Curves 1101, 1102, 1103,1104 all describe how the longer the panel goes without all-cell initialization the more time (or voltage pulse width) required to ignite it stably again. Now the different curves all have the same slope but represent different APL.
  • 1101 – measured at 100% APL
  • 1102 – measured at 50% APL
  • 1103 – measured at 18% APL
  • 1104 – measured at 1.5% APL
You can see that the higher the APL goes the more address voltage width is required to achieve stable operation (as per reason described above).


Panasonic patents 7446734 and 7583240

Describe floating blacks in a 600Hz system using up to 5 black level shifts depending on APL.

Remember that the initialization step produces black level. More initialization the higher the black level. And APL can be thought of as % of the screen at full white. Check this out:






Reasoning (pay attention to bolded areas)


Detailed description of Panasonic REAL-BLACK-DRIVE (as best as I currently understand)

All Cell Initialization:
-first creates excess wall charge state on all cells to [Q4]
-then downslope depletes wall charge in all cells to a normalized low level of [Q1]
- [Q1] is considered the "off" state (at this point all cells are at Q1)

Address Period
- scans all subpixels line by line increasing wall charge in selected pixels to [Q3]
- [Q3] is still below the discharge start voltage
- [Q3] is considered the "on" state while all other pixels with low levels of wall charge are still in the "off" state of [Q1]

Sustain Period
- applies AC voltage that discharges only the cells in the "on" state of [Q3]
- leaves the cell in the "on" state of [Q3] when completed

Selective Initialization
- Only the cells in the "on" state (whith high levels of wall charge) are depleted back to [Q1] using the same downslope voltage ramp (see first plot) while all other cells are already at [Q1] and thus are unchanged during this step
- the panel wall charge is now normalized to [Q1] and again ready to be addressed
post #147 of 1330
Thread Starter 
I guess the question remains as to why LG have not optimized the adjustments for the lowest APL in the first place, one deduction as mentioned is tolerance, keeping the operation of the panel within safe limits so as not create potential anomalies under all operating conditions or a another reason, which would not be readily available and behind closed doors, being that by producing deeper MLLs they are boarding on infringements with regards to Panasonic’s patent.
http://appft1.uspto.gov/netacgi/nph-...RS=20090021452

IMO LG does make an excellent product, which has been intentionally handicapped for no obvious reason (as proven by the number of users who have been able to obtain lower blacks without consequence by just applying slight adjustments), makes you question; and as a result have received less than stellar reviews even though their color, greyscale, motion blur have been highly regarded (excluding 3D crosstalk and gaming lag) and many times exceeding the other flagship models.
post #148 of 1330
Quote:
Originally Posted by rob80b View Post

Ok grab the remote, push menu, Options, ISM method, you'll have four options, scroll down to white wash, enter then hit the exit button.
Once your done you may want to go back to the ISM Method and put it on orbiter to prevent any burn-in.

thanks Rob. Looked great on whitewash with no noise.
post #149 of 1330
Would just like to verify that I have got the locations correct before adjusting. It appears that +VY, Set UP and Set DN are in line on the SUS Board and that VS and VA are very close on the right side of the power board. One slight clarification is that I've seen a -VY referred to but this is actually +VY. Is that correct?
LL
post #150 of 1330
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jimdish255 View Post

Would just like to verify that I have got the locations correct before adjusting. It appears that +VY, Set UP and Set DN are in line on the SUS Board and that VS and VA are very close on the right side of the power board. One slight clarification is that I've seen a -VY referred to but this is actually +VY. Is that correct?

Yes, good luck.
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