Official Sharp 2011 LC-70LE632U Owner's Thread - Page 44

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Jason

Hi Jason..please let us know if and when it's ok to update the firmware. I don't want it to mess the calibrations you assisted us with. Please keep us posted. Thanks!

Yeah but without downloading the update it's not letting me use Netflix or other apps.

Good idea!

When is the date of your last calibration settings? Want to make sure I have the right one. Thanks!

First off forgive my rant, which isn't so much about this TV, as it is about evolving TV technology. If you make it to the end of my post, I applaud you.

I bought this Sharp TV at Sam's for multiple reasons. One to go bigger than our 4 year old living room 61" Samsung HLT6187SAX LED-DLP. Second, so we could move the existing 61" into the bedroom to replace a huge 7 year old 65" Toshiba CRT HD RPTV the Sammy had replaced for something with better picture quality. For the record the 61" Sammy in the LR did not "need to be replaced". That thing still has a perfect picture. So much so that new TV's are pissing me off. It almost seems we've taken 2 steps forward and one back. It used to be mainly about black levels and picture quality. Now we have freaking DSE and SOE issues. I curse society for pushing us into super thin hang on the wall LCD thin TV's with more issues and killing what could have possibly been even slimmer RPTV's without these new issues. Form over function is the new norm I guess. It seems all of the TV manufacturers these days want to tout first how thin their TV is before they even talk about advancements in picture quality.

I've bought and returned some smaller 42" or so LCD's and plasmas to try and replace just the old 65" in the bedroom without changing the living room 61" Sammy we've loved over the past couple of years. But, after getting accustomed to a 61" plus TV in our home, anything smaller has become unacceptable to even my wife. I also couldn't see spending more money than a 42-46" just to replace a bedroom TV. So, I bit the bullet after only 4 years with the 61" Sammy I love to spend 2k and buy the Sharp.

I've had this Sharp TV for a little over a month now. Out of the box I was mostly happy. Then I used Jason's Movie settings from March and was blown away by movie quality and for that matter watching the news. However the one thing that has set me off is watching hockey.

Overall I'm not a big sports fan, but unfortunately in this new LCD/dwindling plasma world it seems I'm really screwed being a huge hockey fan. The DSE/diamond whatever you call it is driving me nuts with this set. Jason's most recent Movie settings from April seem to make it worse, although cranking up the backlight seems to help. I finally bit the bullet and tried the Game settings and that has made it a bit better for hockey while making everything else look worse. I shouldn't have to switch picture modes. Call me lazy, but I believe any TV should have a decent middle ground in one mode without extremely blatant issues.

I'm finding it really hard to justify a 2k purchase for "any" new TV when I've read now from various places that almost all LCD's exhibit some bit of DSE or SOE. After some initial not so dramatic forum seeking tweaks 4 years ago my 61" Sammy LED-DLP looked awesome in super bright or completely dark rooms and continues to look that way today.

I bought this TV at Sam's, so I have 90 days to return. I've pretty much decided as of writing this that this set is being returned. I'm beginning to feel like I should just pull the old 65" RPTV HDTV out of it's current spot in the garage, put it back in the bedroom while moving the 61" back into the living room. and then saying to hell with LCD/Plasma until one of the two TV's dies or things get better with new tech.

One last note. Thinner and newer doesn't mean more power efficient either. Most of the LCD's and especially plasmas I've tried over the last couple of yeats, including this TV, suck more power based on my findings from a Kill-A-Watt meter than either my 4 or 7 year old TV's.

I'd return and exchange it for an edge led if it bothers you as much as it did for me. Perhaps watching hockey would not be so bad if the Penguins had beat the Flyers this year... Check out my 2 posts here - #53 and 42:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...7#post21982427

Deepthinker, I'm with you. Hockey capabilities are extremely important to me in a new TV, and I have not yet found one that beats my 10 year old Sony 57" RPTV.
Quite frustrating.

That being said, I have read some indications that the Sharp 2012 640 edge-lit series (and perhaps 745 series as well?) may be better for hockey in terms of the DSE (diamond patterns), but I haven't been able to audition it myself to verify.

You may be subjected to other issues if you end up with an edge lit LED, though.

I watch hockey no problem on my set.. I haven't noticed any issues - but that might be just because of my old and untrained eyes. Aren't plasmas supposed to be a lot better for sports?

deepthinker said:
"One last note. Thinner and newer doesn't mean more power efficient either. Most of the LCD's and especially plasmas I've tried over the last couple of yeats, including this TV, suck more power based on my findings from a Kill-A-Watt meter than either my 4 or 7 year old TV's."

Most calibrated LED panels use much less power than plasma televisions. About as much as a 100 watt light bulb in average use. Plasma has become more energy efficient, but still draw more current than LED/LCD.

http://downloads.energystar.gov/bi/q....pdf?e520-a966

I'm a huge hockey fan, and have been watching tons of playoff games on my 632 (purchased day before Thanksgiving). I am using Jason's Movie mode settings from March, which overall, look great.

With regard to hockey, I definitely notice the DSE and diamond pattern, if I "step out of the action" and look for it. The ice also tends to be a bit dim, depending on the game/feed/home arena. But all-in-all, still looks pretty damn good, and I don't have an issue.

That said, I am going to try Jason's Game settings for hockey-watching. If they are *that* much better for hockey, and I'm watching hockey...why not? It just takes a few seconds to adjust for the game.

I should also note that I moved my 58" Sammy plasma to the bedroom, and hockey definitely looks better on that; in fact, it's awesome. I mean, all things being equal, I'd have a plasma in the family room...BUT...can't get above 64/65", and that's a dealbreaker for me, as I want 70", minimum, now...

Oh, BTW...helps that the Coyotes are on a run...

Thanks a bunch for pointing me to your posts and for your thoughts. I'm going to look into one of the 640 models. Sucks to have to pay another $20 for a rental Lowe's truck to return this monster. LOL Means I spent $40 to rent this thing when all is said and done. Really want to make sure I have a replacement set ready to buy and I'm sure about it. Renting a truck and hauling around these TV's is a bit of a pain.

I'm with you on plasma's looking good for hockey, as I actually thought the cheapie 42" Insignia I had first bought for the bedroom before upgrading to this beast and swapping the 61" DLP in there looked great. But like you said can't get above 64" or so and even then they cost and arm and a leg. I also don't care for the glare issues and massive power suck.

As for your Yotes. I normally wouldn't root for a Pacific division rival to my Dallas Stars, but Tippet was our old coach and has done a fine job with them. Also my boys are out anyway. It's a nice run for you guys to be able to watch after what you've gone through as fans with the pending sale. My heart goes out to Yotes fans watching this run with the thought in the back of their minds that the team "might" move. I'm so glad my Stars finally have a new owner.

As a completely OT point - I'd like to point out that I love that so many of you Americans are really into hockey. I always assumed you guys only watched hockey when Basketball and Football weren't on (except in a few northern states).


It's still our sport, though.

I'm a real oddball. I grew up in the American south and was never really a fan of any sport at all. Then I moved to TX. in '97 and fell in love with hockey and the Dallas Stars. What are the odds I fall in love with hockey in football crazy TX. High school football stadiums around here are sometimes as big as college/university stadiums in other places.

Born and raised in Buffalo, NY, where hockey is huge...lifelong Sabres fan...Hull was in the crease!!!

Oh boy we could be here all day on that one, but I have to give one response to that then I'll leave it alone. This isn't a sports forum.

That being said even Bettman regrets that rule's existence.

Back in March of this year... "Gary Bettman made an appearance on "Costas Tonight" and revealed that one of his biggest regrets as NHL commissioner was allowing the foot in the crease rule."

...and "NHL Director of Officiating Bryan Lewis said there was no crease violation because "Hull had possession of the puck when his skate entered the crease."

It was a good goal!! Get over it. Besides the Stars showed how good of a team they were by repeating a trip to the finals the next year. Buffalo didn't get out of the first round in 2000.

We have the same thing in leafsville.. the no call on gretzky's high stick in 1993 that probably cost them a trip to the finals.

Hmm, I know it's 5" smaller, but it's only $1 more at Sam's than I paid for this set. I'm going to go check it out this weekend. I'll also see if there is a thread for it here on AVS. That said though does anyone here have any thoughts on this TV as a replacement for the Sharp?

65" Vizio M3D650SV
http://store.vizio.com/via-hdtvs/m3d650sv.html

Comes with 4 pairs of 3D glasses. Edge Lit with "Smart Dimming"? I assume that means Edge Lit with Local Dimming. I had shunned Vizio and even took one back a couple of years ago even though I liked the picture quality because they wouldn't let you turn off the light behind the dang Vizio logo. Well seems like they finally got a clue, because I confirmed from the manual for this thing that you can.

I know it's 5" smaller for basically the same price, but with our viewing distance we were fine with the 61" we had, so this would still be 4 more.

I miss the cost of gas in Canada - used to work in Detroit in the early 80's at a radio station, and would cross over the river to Windsor to fill up my 76 Olds 98. The exchange rate was much better back then, and a liter is more than a gallon...

follow up on television energy consumption:
link:
http://reviews.cnet.com/green-tech/t...content;rb_mtx

tip for extending the life of your tv - pick up a UPS with AVR. It's saved my old DLP many a time by keeping the power running on backup - and supplying steady voltage to the set. Plus I keep my 2 WDTV hubs, and HTPC plugged into it for backup juice during power burps here in the Pittsburgh area..

http://www.amazon.com/Cyberpower-CP1...6180119&sr=1-1

Perhaps next year for the Pens? Play me some Rush, eh?

I found these settings on another site and seem to work the best for me....I input them with USER setting, but the author suggests STANDARD....anyways, hockey looked really good with this setting, as well as regular sitcoms etc....I have to say that this tv might haver the WORST factory settings ever...lol...anyways, give it a try and let me know if it improves anything for anyone...especially the hockey fans!....................................................... ................




Before Calibration - The TV LOOKED AWFUL!!!!! skin tones were way off and so on .

Settings Starting from top to bottom top written here Left to Right or Red first
wich for Hue would be +6 and work your way down

TINT IS VERY IMPORTANT TO LEAVE AT 0
HuE +6 0 -16 0 0 0 Skin tone fix
Saturation 0 -18 -4 -30 -13 -30 Rgb ballance
Value +10 0 -7 0 +20 0 Color Depth and Accuracy.
Each one of these changes affect 2 colors at a time thats why its hard to get them just right.Value affects
how strong Hue looks and so on .Saturation also affects how strong you set tint and Value .This is the closest
you will get without paying best buy 200bucks for calibration and you might not even notice any difference.

Color temp
You can use Med or Low Med user preference but set
0 0 0 +8 0 -10

Gama -1 / 0 looks better on shows like Icarly bc theres no shadow detail. Infact use 0 on those bright shows.
Backlight +2(turning backup up to high makes cablebox look to noisy) you need really high end HD to turn up to 16
Contrast 31 (32 makes faces wash out on sunlight eventhough calibration paterns say 32 is fine but its not)
Color +7 or your preference
brightness +1
sharpness +2
All you guys know to turn smooth motion off ,
noise reduction off, BUT you can set noise
reduction to low on your cable box or BluRays that have noticible noise. You can use Dynamic contrast as you wish bc it does help nexflix shows like 30rock wich tend to be on the greyish side .

....you wouldnt miss the price of gas in Canada anymore....I'm in Niagara, Ontario and get my gas in Buffalo....1.29/litre here as opposed to what works out to 1.08 across the Peace Bridge....

Ok hockey fans (boy did this thread go OT ) try the new Game Mode 50 ftL / Bright room settings and cross your fingers.

Here... http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showp...&postcount=308

Or all of my 632 CAL's are linked below in my sig.

Best of luck!
Jason

So, would the 35 ftL settings approximate a basement room that is completely dark and 50 ftL be the same room with all lights on?

I'm trying to get a feel for what my room ftL is.

Thanks,
Tom

Hi Jason..thanks for the new cal settings for a brighter room. My only question is that I am using your Movie (35 ftL) for Blu-ray and use Game mode (40 ftL) for watching Uverse cable and with PS3 games. Would this be the best possible setup to use in your opinion? Thanks again!

Tom,

50-60 ftL would be for a room with bright walls and lights on in the room, maybe even some ambient light (just not directly hitting the screen, which is bad no matter how bright the display is).



Really it comes down to the viewing environment (wall color, light control).

A dark walled 'theater-like' room with proper light control would probably give most people headaches when viewing a large 50 ftL display, while a 35 ftL display should be just about perfect in those conditions. Of course that bright display in a theater-like room could be made tolerable with some bias lighting behind the screen.

Beyond that it is most certainly personal preference, what can your eyes tolerate (most comfortable) and what do you enjoy.

These are just guidelines and not set in stone rules, much like display size in relation to view distance.

Jason

Thanks, Jason. I understand now about personal preference. Since I only have 1 GAME mode (using HDMI via receiver switching and using 35 ftL), could I place the brighter 50 ftL settings to say, the USER or Standard modes and get the same accurate cal for when I show movies during the day vs at night? I like the 35 ftL when I can control lighting at night and possibly use the 50 ftL during daytime with more light coming into the room from windows/doors. Would the cal still be good using the 50 settings with either the STANDARD or USER modes? Thanks again.

No, the CAL's are specific to each mode as there are factory pre-set variables in each mode that cannot be adjusted in the user menu.

Jason

Thank you, Jason. Would maybe setting a good range on the OPC be a workaround to this? Possibly set it between -3 to +6. I know it won't be as accurate using OPC but would the OPC be able to brighten/darken the image automatically based on ambient lighting and still stay fairly accurate?

Yes you can use the OPC to vary the range with the understanding that it will not be as accurate. My personal tinkering with the OPC keeps me from using it as it appears to fluctuate the image when it seems like it shouldn't (but again that is probably going to vary room to room).

Jason