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Official JVC RS55/X70 owners thread. - Page 48

post #1411 of 3669
I am finding the lens memory selection, going from scope with anamorphic mode A vs. 16:9 is throwing off focus significantly no matter how many times I re-save focus settings in either mode. I also seem to be on the cusp of focus/lens shift as slight focus up or down shifts the entire image diagonally. Is anyone else regularly using lens memory and has experienced similar behavior?

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post #1412 of 3669
That's a bummer.

I haven't tried the lens memory myself.

I vary the image size a lot with my RS20 and never needed to re-focus. Briefly trying this with the RS55 seems to be the same.
post #1413 of 3669
On my RS-45, when I change the focus dial, it also taps the lens shift sometimes (not always) and slightly moves the position of the image. Right now I am using somewhat extreme lens shift, I forgot IF it did this to me when I wasn't using as much.

I don't really care, just thought I'd mention it.
post #1414 of 3669
I have the same lens shift issue when I inititiate the focus adjustment also. I have not notied a de focus when I engage the lens memory going from 2.23:1 to 16x9 though. I guess I will need to take a closer look today, but if it is happening its not very noticable.
post #1415 of 3669
How are the corners holding up for everyone? I have two fairly bright corners (that were not bright when I first got the projector). That, coupled with mediocre convergence on my machine don't endear me to JVC. I still think the PQ is excellent but the Chinese factory isn't doing it's job as well as they should on an 8000 dollar unit.

BTW, I am finding Kevin's suggested Sharpness = Detail = 0 and MPC = 3 settings to be generally very good on most material. That said on some grainy films (Like Hang em High in spots) had me reaching for the remote to turn down (and ultimately turn off) MPC at least for some noisy scenes.
post #1416 of 3669
Quote:
Originally Posted by JonStatt View Post

Actually about 80ms, but I have never had a problem gaming with my 360 or PS3. PCs are different because the mouse control is much more immediate than a controller. In fact I have completed many a game on the 360 or PS3 so it cannot be affecting me that much!

This is exactly what I meant. Controllers are not even close to as precise and immediate as a mouse. I would wager that most console gamers would not even notice the lag since controllers have their maximum pan and movement rates artificially limited. Thats why I tend to find the whole notion of competitive console gaming amusing.

With a pc, the input lag on the rs55 is so bad that i simply cannot play shooters. I will see the other guy first and shoot him, but by the time the mouse actually moves im already dead.
post #1417 of 3669
I'm wondering if the lamp fade has improved at all in this year's models.

If anyone already has a couple hundred hours or more on a RSxx, can you post some quick lumen numbers (new vs. now)?
post #1418 of 3669
Quote:
Originally Posted by plasmabrain View Post

I'm wondering if the lamp fade has improved at all in this year's models.

If anyone already has a couple hundred hours or more on a RSxx, can you post some quick lumen numbers (new vs. now)?

Most of us get our unit in less than a month. I would not think anyone would have anything close to 300 hrs at this stage, let alone the magic 400 mark For me, I only log about 25 hrs and I got it for about 2-3 weeks.
post #1419 of 3669
Quote:
Originally Posted by fight4yu View Post

Most of us get our unit in less than a month. I would not think anyone would have anything close to 300 hrs at this stage, let alone the magic 400 mark For me, I only log about 25 hrs and I got it for about 2-3 weeks.

You might be surprised. Last year some heavy users were up to 150 hours in a month.

However, the JVC lamp hour project thread is not showing any much over 30 hrs, so blasting a query here.
post #1420 of 3669
Quote:
Originally Posted by Geof View Post

How are the corners holding up for everyone? I have two fairly bright corners (that were not bright when I first got the projector). That, coupled with mediocre convergence on my machine don't endear me to JVC. I still think the PQ is excellent but the Chinese factory isn't doing it's job as well as they should on an 8000 dollar unit.

BTW, I am finding Kevin's suggested Sharpness = Detail = 0 and MPC = 3 settings to be generally very good on most material. That said on some grainy films (Like Hang em High in spots) had me reaching for the remote to turn down (and ultimately turn off) MPC at least for some noisy scenes.

It's strange that the bright corners showed up after you used it for a while. What brightness settings are you using? Did you recently change any calibration settings related to black level? If the black floor was raised it could reduce the visibility of the brighter corners.

An easy way to check for bright corners is to take a white piece of paper and hold it a few inches from the lens with the projector on hide. Can you post a picture of what that looks like?
post #1421 of 3669
Quote:
Originally Posted by Geof View Post

How are the corners holding up for everyone? I have two fairly bright corners (that were not bright when I first got the projector). That, coupled with mediocre convergence on my machine don't endear me to JVC. I still think the PQ is excellent but the Chinese factory isn't doing it's job as well as they should on an 8000 dollar unit.

BTW, I am finding Kevin's suggested Sharpness = Detail = 0 and MPC = 3 settings to be generally very good on most material. That said on some grainy films (Like Hang em High in spots) had me reaching for the remote to turn down (and ultimately turn off) MPC at least for some noisy scenes.

I'm seriously considering this unit, but agree for the $, I'd hope the convergence was spot on.
post #1422 of 3669
How is the fan noise on the RS55? Does any one know if it is on pare with the Sony 95ES. I'm coming from an Epson 8500, and the noise is annoying at times. I guess it doesn't help that the pj is over my seating area. I don't run on Eco mode because I like a bright picture.
post #1423 of 3669
Quote:
Originally Posted by cdnscg View Post

How is the fan noise on the RS55? Does any one know if it is on pare with the Sony 95ES. I'm coming from an Epson 8500, and the noise is annoying at times. I guess it doesn't help that the pj is over my seating area. I don't run on Eco mode because I like a bright picture.

Eco mode on these units is very bright. Once you see the difference in contrast, you'll understand. The image is so dynamic, that all of that wasted brightness isn't needed. Chances are normal lamp mode will be all you need. It is almost inaudible. I have to put my head next to the projector in order to hear it.
post #1424 of 3669
Can anyone speak a bit more to the 3D performance of this projector?

Some mentioned ghosting... is it worse than the previous gen?
post #1425 of 3669
Quote:
Originally Posted by BrianMundt View Post

Can anyone speak a bit more to the 3D performance of this projector?

Some mentioned ghosting... is it worse than the previous gen?

See the RS45 shootout thread. Its mostly about the RS45 but I think some RS55 owners chimed in to report similar results.
post #1426 of 3669
Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve Smith View Post

It's strange that the bright corners showed up after you used it for a while. What brightness settings are you using? Did you recently change any calibration settings related to black level? If the black floor was raised it could reduce the visibility of the brighter corners.

An easy way to check for bright corners is to take a white piece of paper and hold it a few inches from the lens with the projector on hide. Can you post a picture of what that looks like?

Steve - I want to thank you for your suggestion. My VW95 did not appear to have bright corners initially, or perhaps it had a very very slight amount. But more recently I started seeing it a bit more than I did originally.

After reading your post it dawned on me that I have made changes to the brightness and contrast settings that may be making the corners appear...

Originally I calibrated a 2.2 gamma and no sign of the corners. Then I used the Radiance Gamma Factor of 1.1 to quickly get a 2.4 gamma. And as noted by Lumagen, when you use the Gamma Factor control you likely will have to adjust brightness and contrast.

In my case I had to increase brightness from 50 (neutral) to 55, and decrease contrast from 89 (90 default) to 85. I didn't put 2 and 2 together until now, but I wonder if the corners became a bit more pronounced after I made this change...

When I have a chance I will first try going back to 50/89 with no gamma factor and a setting of 1.0 (default). And if that improves the corners then I'll calibrate a gamma of 2.4 without using the gamma factor and this will then have brightness of 50 and contrast of 89 and we'll see how it goes reaching the gamma this way.

So again I want to thank you for your suggestion.
post #1427 of 3669
Quote:
Originally Posted by Geof View Post

How are the corners holding up for everyone? I have two fairly bright corners (that were not bright when I first got the projector). That, coupled with mediocre convergence on my machine don't endear me to JVC. I still think the PQ is excellent but the Chinese factory isn't doing it's job as well as they should on an 8000 dollar unit.

BTW, I am finding Kevin's suggested Sharpness = Detail = 0 and MPC = 3 settings to be generally very good on most material. That said on some grainy films (Like Hang em High in spots) had me reaching for the remote to turn down (and ultimately turn off) MPC at least for some noisy scenes.

I too have a couple corners brighter than the others but if look at the 2nd pic from the service menu it's imperceptible (IMO).

Also to some of the earlier comments and concerns with regards to convergence, keep this in mind... most who voice their opinion/concerns on this forum are the one's having the problem. Case in point if you review the RS50 thread from last year there were a few of us (including me!), doing the loudest shouting. This year I've been pretty quiet so what does that tell you (no wise cracks from the elders!).

My convergence this year is near perfect!

FWIW to some of the "prospects"... every projector has its flaws, including this years version... it's just to me they are overshadowed by the improvements and new features which are fantastic!

Lastly in terms of 3D ghosting I think I am on to something as I was watching the ND vs. FSU game on ESPN3D (which looked pretty bad)... when I found the worst ghosting scene I could find and paused my DTV DVR I found by tuning in my Parallux setting by one click either way I could see the ghosting align itself much better to the image through the glasses! The game was almost enjoyable after I did this. I wonder if this has something to do with various screen sizes?? It may be moot on BD players (like my Oppo which already has a screen size setting in the menu), so I'll have to do some more testing, (by all means Jon or Gotch or anyone else, please play around as well and share your thoughts here), but I thought I would at least share my hopeful finding.

So far Geoff I am having a hard time moving off of MPC=3 now because I feel like I'm back home in DLP-LAND!
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post #1428 of 3669
Kevin, I experimented with the parallax adjustment quite a bit and found it useless for canceling crosstalk since the setting needed to eliminate ghosting could vary from one extreme to the other or anywhere in between depending on the scene. A setting that eliminates it for one scene can actually make anothet scene much worse than the default setting. The parallax setting is worthless for ghosting elimination. Not surprising I suppose since this adjustment is not meant to eliminate/reduce ghosting anyway, but it is interesting that you can tune out ghosting on a scene by scene basis.
post #1429 of 3669
Can anyone tell me how to find the list of screen modes that is referenced on the JVC website? it says its on the site, but doesnt say where. I have been looking and cant' locate it.

thx.
post #1430 of 3669
Quote:
Originally Posted by Toe View Post

Kevin, I experimented with the parallax adjustment quite a bit and found it useless for canceling crosstalk since the setting needed to eliminate ghosting could vary from one extreme to the other or anywhere in between depending on the scene. A setting that eliminates it for one scene can actually make anothet scene much worse than the default setting. The parallax setting is worthless for ghosting elimination. Not surprising I suppose since this adjustment is not meant to eliminate/reduce ghosting anyway, but it is interesting that you can tune out ghosting on a scene by scene basis.

It worked for me on 1 title, Monster House, 1 tick up corrected it for the entire film, I thought I had solved the ghosting via BD. However on Sammy's it varied for each scene as you have determined, parallax appears to not make a difference here, though I would not call it worthless, the crosstalk cancellation controls however are currently worthless as they do not work

I have not watched ESPN yet to test on their content, plan to get some viewing in soon and see what will tame crosstalk. I do not think 3D is improved on this years model at all short of supporting optional formats.
post #1431 of 3669
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim Parys View Post

Can anyone tell me how to find the list of screen modes that is referenced on the JVC website? it says its on the site, but doesnt say where. I have been looking and cant' locate it.

thx.

People said that they are the same as RS50. So, this is what is listed:

http://pro.jvc.com/prof/attributes/i...&feature_id=11
post #1432 of 3669
Quote:
Originally Posted by krichter1 View Post


My convergence this year is near perfect!

I thought I had the same, until the unit warms up It is almost perfect at switch on, and even 15-20 minutes later. But after an hour, it all starts to go downhill. The problem is that blue moves down and red moves up. I can see a "very" slight trend towards the same in what you posted, but if thats your result after its on for at least an hour, then you are very lucky indeed. Red and blue are in alignment on the bottom left, but head out a bit over a pixel on the top right of mine. So as they shift out diagonally you can't really correct for it. The only thing is that although red and blue diverge, green goes smack bang through the middle of them. This results in very little fringing being visible. In other words its not the same as two colours being converged and just one, say red, being over a pixel out from the other two. That results in more fringing than my scenario even though the total misconvergence is the same. I am not very happy with it though. I also noticed that the more the aperture is closed, the smaller the pixels become, so the more the misconvergence becomes clearer to see. And of course if MPC is on, it adds its own effects to this, either positively or negatively. Close up to the screen MPC makes the pixel lines a bit fatter so they appear to overlap more. Its probably best you don't switch MPC off though just in case it highlights something you didn't see before!

By the way, I did notice when I first got the projector and had it the right way up, that the movement was noticeably less. Having the projectors upside down does seem to change the warm-up movement.
post #1433 of 3669
Quote:
Originally Posted by Geof View Post

How are the corners holding up for everyone? I have two fairly bright corners (that were not bright when I first got the projector). That, coupled with mediocre convergence on my machine don't endear me to JVC. I still think the PQ is excellent but the Chinese factory isn't doing it's job as well as they should on an 8000 dollar unit.

BTW, I am finding Kevin's suggested Sharpness = Detail = 0 and MPC = 3 settings to be generally very good on most material. That said on some grainy films (Like Hang em High in spots) had me reaching for the remote to turn down (and ultimately turn off) MPC at least for some noisy scenes.

Hmm...I do have two slightly brighter corners and they are the same two as yours (lower two when mounted upside down), although one of them, the worst, has improved without me changing anything. I am still running HDMI standard, so I am not introducing any other factors. But honestly I have not noticed the bright corners during any normal watching. It requires me to sit with a 0 IRE screen for several seconds to allow my eyes to adjust. It does seem to be a common theme this year though. JVC have changed something, that may have improved something somewhere else, but re-introduced an old problem from the past along with it.
post #1434 of 3669
Bright corners are more noticeable to me on older films that have long slow fade to blacks. Majorly irritating.

Speaking of convergenance - don't you wish you could open 6-8 units, let them all warm up and then pick the best one? I remember someone (dealer?) in Italy being able to do this a few years ago.
post #1435 of 3669
Quote:
Originally Posted by John Ballentine View Post

Bright corners are more noticeable to me on older films that have long slow fade to blacks. Majorly irritating.

Speaking of convergenance - don't you wish you could open 6-8 units, let them all warm up and then pick the best one? I remember someone (dealer?) in Italy being able to do this a few years ago.

That was Highlander's dealer. I think it was his friend. I wish I had a friend like that.
post #1436 of 3669
Quote:
Originally Posted by John Ballentine View Post

Bright corners are more noticeable to me on older films that have long slow fade to blacks. Majorly irritating.

Speaking of convergenance - don't you wish you could open 6-8 units, let them all warm up and then pick the best one? I remember someone (dealer?) in Italy being able to do this a few years ago.

Indeed. And turn them all upside down as well so we can see how it will be in a ceiling position
post #1437 of 3669
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gotchaa View Post

It worked for me on 1 title, Monster House, 1 tick up corrected it for the entire film, I thought I had solved the ghosting via BD. However on Sammy's it varied for each scene as you have determined, parallax appears to not make a difference here, though I would not call it worthless, the crosstalk cancellation controls however are currently worthless as they do not work

I have not watched ESPN yet to test on their content, plan to get some viewing in soon and see what will tame crosstalk. I do not think 3D is improved on this years model at all short of supporting optional formats.

Interesting about Monster House and thanks for the info. I never had much ghosting in that title anyway to be honest though (at least on my 40 and I assume my 45 will be the same).

The funny thing is the purpose of the parallax adjustment is not ghosting reduction, but it actually works for that if you just go on a scene by scene basis. In light of this, I tested 4 of my most ghost heavy blu ray discs including Grand Canyon, Despicable Me, Giants of Patagonia and Monsters vs Aliens. I ran through various ghosting scenes in these films and the range needed to dial out the ghosts varied greatly at times which makes this control useless for the more ghost heavy discs from what I have seen so far. Despicable Me for example I could eliminate the ghosting on the opening title with a -15 adjustment, but the lamp post ghosting at 4:52 needed a +5 while the cup straw at 23:31 needed a -5.........its all over the map and dialing it out for one scene will actually make another worse. Grand Canyon at the 12:02 mark I could dial out ghosting on the left side of the image with a -8 setting, but this made the ghosting on the right side of the image even more pronounced. Dialing out the right side required a -13, but then the left side was MUCH more intensified with the ghosting. Patagonia and M v A showed similar results with these tests.

I agree with you about the crosstalk canceler. These controls truly are worthless IMO. The only one that actually does anything on my machine from what I can tell is white and it just seems to brighten/darken the image which does nothing as far as actually eliminating crosstalk.
post #1438 of 3669
If you pick certain scenes in Sammy and adjust the white crosstalk canceller slider it does make a difference actually. It reduces the hard pencil outlines "a bit". Try moving it to +8 and you see it gets worse. But its not a very impressive feature and as I have said before, the RGB controls do absolutely nothing. I really want to know what they are "supposed" to do . Don't say "cancel ghosting"! hehe....I mean...why are there controls for specific colours? I can't quite work out how/what they would be for.
post #1439 of 3669
Quote:
Originally Posted by JonStatt View Post

If you pick certain scenes in Sammy and adjust the white crosstalk canceller slider it does make a difference actually. It reduces the hard pencil outlines "a bit". Try moving it to +8 and you see it gets worse. But its not a very impressive feature and as I have said before, the RGB controls do absolutely nothing. I really want to know what they are "supposed" to do . Don't say "cancel ghosting"! hehe....I mean...why are there controls for specific colours? I can't quite work out how/what they would be for.


All the white control did to my eyes was reduce the overall brightness which made the ghosting a bit harder to see, but it certainly did not go anywhere from what I could tell. Increasing this control made the ghosting a bit more obvious, but the overall image is brighter as well. To me it seemed more like a overall brightness slider than anything which you could do with the iris as well for all practical purposes. Any way you cut it, there is nothing impressive about this "feature" IMO.
post #1440 of 3669
Quote:
Originally Posted by JonStatt View Post

Hmm...I do have two slightly brighter corners and they are the same two as yours (lower two when mounted upside down), although one of them, the worst, has improved without me changing anything. I am still running HDMI standard, so I am not introducing any other factors. But honestly I have not noticed the bright corners during any normal watching. It requires me to sit with a 0 IRE screen for several seconds to allow my eyes to adjust. It does seem to be a common theme this year though. JVC have changed something, that may have improved something somewhere else, but re-introduced an old problem from the past along with it.

Much the same here. I looked at it again last evening (very briefly) and the lower left corner is slightly worse than the lower right corner. Strangely, it didn't look as bad last evening as it had earlier in the week. TBH though after thinking back I'm not sure if I corrected for the uniformity bug when it looked worse earlier this week. And I'm not sure if/how this varies with Iris so I will experiment a bit. I will also play around with the brightness setting to see if this has any effect.

My earlier post may sound like a complaint....and it is but it is directed towards JVC's QA: Come on JVC at this price range things like convergence and bright corners, focus uniformity, etc shouldn't be a crap shoot. But overall I still think the images are outstanding. The sum of it's flawed parts (convergence, bright corners, and some focus uniformity issues) do not seem to impact the images (although it would be interesting to test a "perfect copy" side by side with a "flawed copy" to see how these issues impact PQ). The one aspect of this projector that still amazes me is it's dimensionality. There are times when it's just freaking awesome - Avatar (2D) absolutely shines on this projector. So, warts and all I'll take it but JVC still needs to work on removing those warts.
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