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Official JVC RS55/X70 owners thread. - Page 99

post #2941 of 3529
5/6/12 at 10:56pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by R Harkness View Post

Of possible interest to us RS55/X70 owners:

AVforums just put up their review of the Sony VPL-VW1000E 4K projector.

http://www.avforums.com/reviews/Sony...95/Review.html

They compared it directly to the JVC RS55. In a nutshell:

Sony: brighter.
JVC: Better black levels.
JVC: Better color (due to being able to calibrate better).
Sony: better 3D
Motion: essentially the same (that was interesting).

Perhaps the take home for JVC owners, after comparing the Sony to the JVC, they stated:

"In terms of 2D performance the X70 remains our reference projector"

Probably due to better color and leading black levels. But for those of us most interested in 2D movie watching with an appropriate screen set up, that's quite a nice price/performance ratio.

Sounds about the review i gave months ago. I read Art`s blog on the Sony 1000 and he stated that the Sony blows away the rs55. I know its brighter and has the best 3D i seen, but i didn't see what he saw.
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Gear mentioned in this thread:

post #2942 of 3529
5/7/12 at 2:39am
Quote:
Originally Posted by R Harkness View Post

Two things:

1. I wonder if others here feel as I do: this is my second JVC with a user adjustable iris. After living with this feature, it has been so heplful and allows such nice tweaking, I would have a hard time choosing a projector without this feature.

2. Convergence: This seems to have remained a gray area, in terms of whether one ought to use the new fine convergence feature - 1/16th pixel convergence adjustment possible with 121 adjustment zones. Some think we risk making the image worse.

However, the reviewer in Widescreen Review insisted that taking the time to converge all 121 zones yielded a better image. In another thread, it was mentioned that a calibrationist who'd done 11 of the JVCs insists that doing the fine zone convergence "works wonders."

So I think I'm going to give this a whirl some time soon. (Apparently there's a re-set button in case you want to undo what you've done). Anyone else tried...or going to try?


It is me advising against it and I stand by viewpoint that it could be dangerous to use in the middle section of the screen. You can see it very simply yourself. Go up to the screen and using the whole screen adjustment, just to make it easy to see the effect. Use the built-in test patterns so you can see the convergence test screen where red , green and blue are separated. Now, move red 8 points (16 = whole pixel). What do you notice now? TWO rows of subpixels for that colour are now illuminated and you have just halved your resolution in that colour.
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post #2943 of 3529
5/7/12 at 7:01am
Quote:
Originally Posted by R Harkness View Post

Two things:

1. I wonder if others here feel as I do: this is my second JVC with a user adjustable iris. After living with this feature, it has been so heplful and allows such nice tweaking, I would have a hard time choosing a projector without this feature.

2. Convergence: This seems to have remained a gray area, in terms of whether one ought to use the new fine convergence feature - 1/16th pixel convergence adjustment possible with 121 adjustment zones. Some think we risk making the image worse.

However, the reviewer in Widescreen Review insisted that taking the time to converge all 121 zones yielded a better image. In another thread, it was mentioned that a calibrationist who'd done 11 of the JVCs insists that doing the fine zone convergence "works wonders."

So I think I'm going to give this a whirl some time soon. (Apparently there's a re-set button in case you want to undo what you've done). Anyone else tried...or going to try?

I had a CRT PJ that had this same multi-point convergence and I LOVED IT. And I love it as well on my JVC. It takes some time but I ended up with virtually perfect convergence over the entire screen.

I remember someone had said he thought it was a bad idea but in my room, with my PJ and on my screen, I got excellent results.

HIGHLY RECOMMENDED!
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post #2944 of 3529
5/7/12 at 7:55am
Quote:
Originally Posted by audioguy View Post

I had a CRT PJ that had this same multi-point convergence and I LOVED IT. And I love it as well on my JVC. It takes some time but I ended up with virtually perfect convergence over the entire screen.

I remember someone had said he thought it was a bad idea but in my room, with my PJ and on my screen, I got excellent results.

HIGHLY RECOMMENDED!

On a CRT it is totally different to on a panel based projector. The pixels can't really move on a panel based system. It is done by trickery. And to succeed in that trickery, you have to compromise resolution. As I mentioned before if you have visible fringing from seated, go for it. Otherwise I can only make my strongest recommendation to leave it alone.

This is not new. The Sony has it as well, and the same research and conclusions were reached there. There is a very clever implementation of this trickery on the JVC, but its use should be conservative. What makes it clever is that not only can it handle partial pixel shifts (albeit trickery), but those shifts can be angled to conform to the non-uniformity of the misconvergence across the screen.
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post #2945 of 3529
5/7/12 at 8:47am
Quote:
Originally Posted by JonStatt View Post

On a CRT it is totally different to on a panel based projector. The pixels can't really move on a panel based system. It is done by trickery. And to succeed in that trickery, you have to compromise resolution. As I mentioned before if you have visible fringing from seated, go for it. Otherwise I can only make my strongest recommendation to leave it alone.

+1. I would also echo that recommendation.

On a CRT projector you're phyiscally moving the image. The 3 images (red/green/blue) are not fixed or in any way linked together like in a single panel digital machine. On a CRT projector you *have* to use convergence to get anything that resembles a watchable picture. Before you set it up the 3 images will easily be off by many feet on an average sized screen.

Kal
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post #2946 of 3529
5/7/12 at 9:15am
Quote:
Originally Posted by JonStatt View Post

It is me advising against it and I stand by viewpoint that it could be dangerous to use in the middle section of the screen. You can see it very simply yourself. Go up to the screen and using the whole screen adjustment, just to make it easy to see the effect. Use the built-in test patterns so you can see the convergence test screen where red , green and blue are separated. Now, move red 8 points (16 = whole pixel). What do you notice now? TWO rows of subpixels for that colour are now illuminated and you have just halved your resolution in that colour.

My calibrator spent about a half hour doing this convergence on the entire screen before he proceeded with the calibration. The adjustments he made were pretty extensive across the entire picture. The picture looks great, but are you saying I should turn it off? What should I look for as to the visual anomalies introduced by this? If I should turn it off, how do I do that, and can I do without losing the rest of the calibration?

Craig
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post #2947 of 3529
5/7/12 at 10:01am
Quote:
Originally Posted by craig john View Post


My calibrator spent about a half hour doing this convergence on the entire screen before he proceeded with the calibration. The adjustments he made were pretty extensive across the entire picture. The picture looks great, but are you saying I should turn it off? What should I look for as to the visual anomalies introduced by this? If I should turn it off, how do I do that, and can I do without losing the rest of the calibration?

Craig

Under pixel shift option you can just go between off and on.

It will have no effect on your calibration.

&

More then likely you will not notice anything different from your seating position good or bad.

Standing next to your screen you will probably notice color fringing on white if turned off.
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post #2948 of 3529
5/7/12 at 10:03am
One thing that overly adjusting pixel convergence can cause is shown by the link below (although never tested the JVC's that extensively). On my JVC RS-45 the convergence is so good that I don't need to change it. I can move blue 1 pixel after the PJ fully warms up if I want to and it corrects it down to about 0.3 off on blue, but it doesn't make any real diff. to my eyes (especially since blue is generally the least worrisome anyhow).

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...9#post21980289
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post #2949 of 3529
5/7/12 at 10:07am
Coder guy...

Can someone come up with a real word example of this on any material?

Video Game or Movie?
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post #2950 of 3529
5/7/12 at 10:13am
I can confirm side effects on an older Sony vw70 in real-world viewing and video games. Though, I cannot 100% guarantee that the side effects I saw on the Sony vw70 were merely that the convergence was bad itself, or that it was from adjusting it (but most likely it was half and half or some of both). However, I cannot confirm this on my JVC since my convergence is too perfect to start with.

The only way I know someone can truly test it in real world viewing is to have 2 of the same model projector side-by-side split-screen, one with nearly perfect convergence, and one with so-so convergence but near-perfect post adjustment.

Sounds like a major trial and error thing to do.
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post #2951 of 3529
5/7/12 at 11:21am
Quote:
Originally Posted by SOWK View Post


Under pixel shift option you can just go between off and on.

It will have no effect on your calibration.

&

More then likely you will not notice anything different from your seating position good or bad.

Standing next to your screen you will probably notice color fringing on white if turned off.

But is turning it off going to actually undo the multi point convergence that i did?
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post #2952 of 3529
5/7/12 at 11:53am
Quote:
Originally Posted by audioguy View Post


But is turning it off going to actually undo the multi point convergence that i did?

Doesn't on mine.

If you are really worried about it, don't even do it. You'll be turning it back on anyhow.

I noticed a huge reduction in resolution on an RS50, but when I tried this on my RS55(X70) I notice no reduction in resolution.

I don't remember if 1 pixel on 1 pixel off had a pink hue to it after but I only have positive things to say about it on the X70. I was also in the camp of don't touch it at all. But then I tried it and found the benefits outweighed any negative side effects ( none that I could see anyway )
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post #2953 of 3529
5/7/12 at 12:05pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by SOWK View Post

Doesn't on mine.

If you are really worried about it, don't even do it. You'll be turning it back on anyhow.

I noticed a huge reduction in resolution on an RS50, but when I tried this on my RS55(X70) I notice no reduction in resolution.

I don't remember if 1 pixel on 1 pixel off had a pink hue to it after but I only have positive things to say about it on the X70. I was also in the camp of don't touch it at all. But then I tried it and found the benefits outweighed any negative side effects ( none that I could see anyway )

Actually whole pixel shifts such as those on the RS50, have no effect on resolution at all. It is only the partial pixel shifts that risks a compromise in resolution.
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post #2954 of 3529
5/7/12 at 12:07pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by JonStatt View Post


Actually whole pixel shifts such as those on the RS50, have no effect on resolution at all. It is only the partial pixel shifts that risks a compromise in resolution.

Not true on the RS50 I saw it on... It was very noticeable and from seating distance as well.

It was on a older firmware though, not sure if that matters.
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post #2955 of 3529
5/7/12 at 12:15pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by SOWK View Post

Not true on the RS50 I saw it on... It was very noticeable and from seating distance as well.

It was on a older firmware though, not sure if that matters.

Firmware wouldn't make any difference, but I can assure you, just draw it on a piece of paper, the effect of moving a whole colour a whole pixel and you will see it physically cannot compromise resolution. There are even extra rows/columns of pixels so that if you shift red up, you don't lose the top row of pixels. I can only assume that you were making changes that made the convergence so bad in parts of the screen that it looked softer. But in fact the resolution is still the same. Or there was a fault with the projector itself.

As can be shown mathematically, resolution is not affected by misconvergence. Perceived contrast is the most prevalent effect, followed by perceived loss of sharpness (to a lesser extent). Also misconvergence in blue is near invisible.

However with partial pixel shifts, you really can reduce resolution. As I mentioned, making a shift of 8 points on the adjustment will result in exactly halving the resolution in that colour. What should be a single line of red pixels will now be two lines. If you set both vertical and horizontal to 8 points, then you will halve the resolution again for that colour.

By the way, I am not happy with the convergence on my projector. When you first switch it on, it is very good indeed, but then it drifts in a very non-linear way across the screen such a way that whole pixel shifts are near useless to correct it. I can get the whole screen within 1 pixel deviation with about 0.5 a pixel out in the centre...but no part of the screen is better than that. It is within JVC's tolerances though. So I just used the zone shift at the very edges to reduce any visible fringing and left it at that.
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post #2956 of 3529
5/7/12 at 3:24pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by SOWK View Post


Under pixel shift option you can just go between off and on.

It will have no effect on your calibration.

&

More then likely you will not notice anything different from your seating position good or bad.

Standing next to your screen you will probably notice color fringing on white if turned off.

Agreed. However on a large screen from a short viewing distance, even a tiny amount of red fringing can be noticeable and annoying. For this reason, I'm very happy to have the fine/zone adjustments. I only see positive results when I toggle them on and off.
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post #2957 of 3529
5/7/12 at 3:58pm
Ok, caveats are certainly noted about this process. As long as one can do the process and toggle the results on and off to check, I wouldn't mind doing it for kicks.

So...you CAN toggle the multi-zone adjusted settings on and off, right?
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post #2958 of 3529
5/7/12 at 8:53pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by 5mark View Post

For this reason, I'm very happy to have the fine/zone adjustments. I only see positive results when I toggle them on and off.

The side effects (at least on a Sony) are hard to see in a still image. You need to use a test pattern or watching moving video. If you can just adjust everything 1 pixel at a time and then get it closer, that is good. Unless you have the converged colored pixels exactly half-off, then I would stick with 1-full-pixel shift corrections if possible.
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post #2959 of 3529
5/7/12 at 11:03pm
Hi guys,

I'm having my home theater installers perform final installation of my JVC RS55 projector this Friday! I'm new to the projector world, as I currently own a Panasonic 65 inch VT series 3D plasma, calibrated by Gregg Loewen, arguably one of the best calibrators in the world (and THX instructor).

Gregg and his team can't make it to my new house before next fall (I live in Quebec, Canada) so in the meanwhile, I would like to have all AVSForum users' input on what settings to use to start enjoying my projector as best as I can while waiting for a proper professional calibration in a couple of months.

It's a new construction house, so I was able to dedicate a true batcave in the basement. I have complete light control, since there are no windows in the 12 feet wide by 18 feet deep room, with 9 feet ceilings. All walls and ceilings were painted mate black. The projector's lens is roughly 14,7 feet away from the screen, and the seating area is 10 feet away from the screen (I guess this means I'm in the 1.40x zoom range). The projector will work its magic on a 100 inch diagonal, 16:9 format, Stewart Filmscreen StudioTek 130 G3 screen. My projector was updated to the latest 28.056 firmware, which as of May 8th 2012, is the latest update.

I've been reading posts here, as well as all the reviews on the X70/RS55 projector (Home Theater Mag, AVForums, Trusted Reviews, Projector Reviews, etc) and noted the following on which feel free to comment:

******

To check the alignment, you have to go into the service menu and it will show an RGB cross section grid that you can see: that’s the RGB pattern for testing convergence. To access the service menu, the remote pattern is 'up down left right center'.

To set the focus, there is a green grid built in that you use to focus the screen. The grid consists of 2 lines of green pixels. If the focus is ok, then the word 'focus' should be sharp in the center and the grid nice and sharp (so you can see the pixels up close) from edge to edge and top to bottom.



******



The iris setting is also called the lens aperture, LENS AP on the remote. The lower, the more on/off contrast, the higher the more brightness. Find the setting that gives you best contrast, and is still bright enough in your room, for your taste.



******

eShift is controlled through the MPC setting, you can change the intensity of it from 0 being the least and 3 being strongest.



********



General settings suggestions:



If your room is light controlled:
- select a user preset
- select the standard colour profile
- select the 6500K color temperature
- select the 2.3 or 2.4 gamma curve in a custom gamma preset. This should track to 2.2 or 2.3. If you have a true bat cave, try 2.5 which should give you close to 2.4.

This is if you like to be as close as possible to rec-709, the HD standard. If you like a bit more saturation, try the stage or anime1 colour profiles in your user preset instead of standard.

Set the iris aperture as close as possible for your screen size to get the best possible on/off contrast.



*********

Home Theater Magazine settings:

2D
Picture Mode: User
Color Profile: Cinema 2
Color Temp.: Custom (basis 6000K)

Red: Gain -2, Offset, -9
Green: Gain -22, Offset 0
Blue: Gain -38, Offset +5
Gamma: Custom
Dark/Bright Level: 0/0
Picture Tone: 0 (all)
Contrast: +6
Brightness: -3
Color: 0
Tint: 0
Advanced

Sharpness: 0
Detail Enhance: 0
NR: 0 (all)
Custom Gamma: 2.5, adjusted
Color Management:
Hue, Saturation, Brightness
Red: +3, -4, -1
Green: -17. +3, +7
Blue: -7, 0, -3
Yellow: -1, 0, 0
Cyan: +1, -2, +12
Magenta: -4, -8, 0
Clear Motion Drive: Off
Lens Aperture: 0
Lamp Power: High
HDMI Input: Enhanced
Black Level (Installation menu): 0

3D

Picture Mode: User
Color Profile: Standard
Color Temp.: 6000K
Gamma: Normal
Dark/Bright Level: 0/0
Picture Tone: 0 (all)
Contrast: +10
Brightness: -4
Color: 0
Tint: 0
Advanced

Sharpness: 25 (mid)
Detail Enhance: 25 (mid)
NR: 0 (all)
Lens Aperture: 0
Lamp Power: High
HDMI Input: Enhanced
Black Level (Installation menu): 0

ANY OTHER ADVICE ?????
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post #2960 of 3529
5/7/12 at 11:23pm
I have some questions about the configuration settings of the RS55.

1. HDMI Input
I can selecact Standard (16-235), Enhanced (0-255) or Super White (16-255).
What is the setting that should be used when using a HTPC with:
- Blu-Ray content to play
- Media Player Classic Home Cinema
- madVR as output renderer (set to PC levels 0-255 as RGB output levels)
- LAV video filter (RGB set to 'untouched' in LAV video filter)
- NVIDIA GTX460 with default 1080p23 profile BUT with n vidia fix during installation (for further information about this fix check http://forums.nvidia.com/index.php?s...post&p=1328716)

2. Color Space
I can select YCbCr (4:4:4), YCbCr (4:2:2) or RGB. It seems that only RGB seems to show the correct colours. I thought Blu-Ray specification was 4:2:2?
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post #2961 of 3529
5/8/12 at 5:49am
Well, I don't know that I'll end up doing the fine, multi-zone convergence thing afterall.

I double-checked my convergence last night, used the whole pixel pattern to shift blue by one point, and after that my convergence looks fantastic! Much better than my previous RS20. So I don't think I have to touch a thing.
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post #2962 of 3529
5/8/12 at 6:16am
Quote:
Originally Posted by R Harkness View Post

Well, I don't know that I'll end up doing the fine, multi-zone convergence thing afterall.

I double-checked my convergence last night, used the whole pixel pattern to shift blue by one point, and after that my convergence looks fantastic! Much better than my previous RS20. So I don't think I have to touch a thing.

Lucky guy. I trust you looked at this after it warmed up for 1/2 hour or so? If not you may want to because it does drift during warmup.


----


My take on the multizone convergence is similar to Jonathan's. If you look at the crosshatch pattern from your seated position and do not see colors than I don't think any convergence tweaking is warranted. After all, if you can NOT see convergence errors from the seat then making it "better" serves what purpose? On the other hand if you can see misconvergence from the seated position then that's something that may benefit from being corrected. The tradeoff (there are always gotcha's) is the convergence fine tune does affect resolution (as Jonathan explained earlier) - it effectively uses two pixels to make "one" decent one. That's not something I would do without just cause.
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post #2963 of 3529
5/8/12 at 9:35am
Another quick question...

I will be using an Oppo Digital BDP-93 blu-ray player, and I wrote to Oppo asking them what setting to put in the blu-ray player for color space, they suggested I use YCbCr (4:4:4) for the Oppo/JVC RS55 pair.

Does this mean I also have to select YCbCr (4:4:4) in the JVC menu's color space?

Why do you think they suggest I use YCbCr (4:4:4) ???
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post #2964 of 3529
5/8/12 at 2:47pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Orangevee View Post

Hi guys,

I'm having my home theater installers perform final installation of my JVC RS55 projector this Friday! I'm new to the projector world, as I currently own a Panasonic 65 inch VT series 3D plasma, calibrated by Gregg Loewen, arguably one of the best calibrators in the world (and THX instructor).

Gregg and his team can't make it to my new house before next fall (I live in Quebec, Canada) so in the meanwhile, I would like to have all AVSForum users' input on what settings to use to start enjoying my projector as best as I can while waiting for a proper professional calibration in a couple of months.

It's a new construction house, so I was able to dedicate a true batcave in the basement. I have complete light control, since there are no windows in the 12 feet wide by 18 feet deep room, with 9 feet ceilings. All walls and ceilings were painted mate black. The projector's lens is roughly 14,7 feet away from the screen, and the seating area is 10 feet away from the screen (I guess this means I'm in the 1.40x zoom range). The projector will work its magic on a 100 inch diagonal, 16:9 format, Stewart Filmscreen StudioTek 130 G3 screen. My projector was updated to the latest 28.056 firmware, which as of May 8th 2012, is the latest update.

I've been reading posts here, as well as all the reviews on the X70/RS55 projector (Home Theater Mag, AVForums, Trusted Reviews, Projector Reviews, etc) and noted the following on which feel free to comment:

******

To check the alignment, you have to go into the service menu and it will show an RGB cross section grid that you can see: that's the RGB pattern for testing convergence. To access the service menu, the remote pattern is 'up down left right center'.

To set the focus, there is a green grid built in that you use to focus the screen. The grid consists of 2 lines of green pixels. If the focus is ok, then the word 'focus' should be sharp in the center and the grid nice and sharp (so you can see the pixels up close) from edge to edge and top to bottom.



******



The iris setting is also called the lens aperture, LENS AP on the remote. The lower, the more on/off contrast, the higher the more brightness. Find the setting that gives you best contrast, and is still bright enough in your room, for your taste.



******

eShift is controlled through the MPC setting, you can change the intensity of it from 0 being the least and 3 being strongest.



********



General settings suggestions:



If your room is light controlled:
- select a user preset
- select the standard colour profile
- select the 6500K color temperature
- select the 2.3 or 2.4 gamma curve in a custom gamma preset. This should track to 2.2 or 2.3. If you have a true bat cave, try 2.5 which should give you close to 2.4.

This is if you like to be as close as possible to rec-709, the HD standard. If you like a bit more saturation, try the stage or anime1 colour profiles in your user preset instead of standard.

Set the iris aperture as close as possible for your screen size to get the best possible on/off contrast.



*********

Home Theater Magazine settings:

2D
Picture Mode: User
Color Profile: Cinema 2
Color Temp.: Custom (basis 6000K)

Red: Gain -2, Offset, -9
Green: Gain -22, Offset 0
Blue: Gain -38, Offset +5
Gamma: Custom
Dark/Bright Level: 0/0
Picture Tone: 0 (all)
Contrast: +6
Brightness: -3
Color: 0
Tint: 0
Advanced

Sharpness: 0
Detail Enhance: 0
NR: 0 (all)
Custom Gamma: 2.5, adjusted
Color Management:
Hue, Saturation, Brightness
Red: +3, -4, -1
Green: -17. +3, +7
Blue: -7, 0, -3
Yellow: -1, 0, 0
Cyan: +1, -2, +12
Magenta: -4, -8, 0
Clear Motion Drive: Off
Lens Aperture: 0
Lamp Power: High
HDMI Input: Enhanced
Black Level (Installation menu): 0

3D

Picture Mode: User
Color Profile: Standard
Color Temp.: 6000K
Gamma: Normal
Dark/Bright Level: 0/0
Picture Tone: 0 (all)
Contrast: +10
Brightness: -4
Color: 0
Tint: 0
Advanced

Sharpness: 25 (mid)
Detail Enhance: 25 (mid)
NR: 0 (all)
Lens Aperture: 0
Lamp Power: High
HDMI Input: Enhanced
Black Level (Installation menu): 0

ANY OTHER ADVICE ?????

Given you have a batcave, and you are almost at the closest zoom, and your screen is not that big, i say go with LOW LAMP and close IRIS to at least -13. This should still be plenty bright and offer really good contrast.
I use HDMI standard which crush black 17 a bit, but I am about to go with HDMI enhanced in my next calibration. You can also play with Dark level to decrease the GAMMA for the low WHITE% to see which you prefer.
Other than that, for 2D, you should get a really nice picture! Enjoy!
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post #2965 of 3529
5/8/12 at 6:45pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by fight4yu View Post

i say go with LOW LAMP and close IRIS to at least -13. This should still be plenty bright and offer really good contrast.

So if I understand, there are 16 aperture steps, 0 being the brightest (lowest on/off contrast) and -16 is the highest on/off contrast (but least bright).

Am I getting this right?


Also, I've heard "using both lens"... Is there two lens systems in the projector??? By using an aperture closest to -16, does this mean you're only using one lens and hence better picture quality? Can someone explain this to me?
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post #2966 of 3529
5/8/12 at 7:42pm
The aperture at -15 (0-15) increases the native on/off contrast and perhaps ANSI a bit (don't know what people measured on ANSI), and -15 is the darkest setting. The short version is that dark scenes will look a tad better with the IRIS all the way closed (better whites within those darker blacks). Technically you are darkening the image, so when I say brighter whites, I mean relative to the darkness of the blacks (which is all contrast is anyways).

There are no other main benefits other than the contrast (for instance the image does not become sharper or anything), and as a new JVC owner you would hardly even notice the difference between the Aperture at 0 or -15 if the brightness were equalized between the two positions (like after the lamps DIM over time). You do lose black levels technically, but it's only when you get real picky is it a big deal.

The JVC produces a stunning image, but as I have said in other threads, I am a bit perturbed about the lamp because of gamma and color drift, I get tired of re-calibrating the projector so often (I don't have a lumagen though and the RS-45 has no CMS so I am very limited in what I can do anyhow to fight a yellow push). I cannot say if the yellow push is there on the RS-55 or not. However, there is definitely a yellow push on my RS-45 that mostly shows up in movies pre-disposed to a yellow push. I saw it pretty severely in Columbiana (bad movie IMHO) and in The Immortals, and a bit in Hugo. In other movies that are more neutral like Mr. Popper's Penguins or say Tree of Life (reference level skin tones), you don't really see it very often. The yellow push is at least partly due to the uneven saturation tracking, and probably partly related to the luminance and hue error. Again, it is mostly there in scenes that are already starting to push yellow, it exaggerates the push basically.
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post #2967 of 3529
5/9/12 at 4:56am
I am having my Control4 system updated this Friday and was hoping that there is some IR command that will allow me to directly select aspect ratio (in my case, either none or A).

Thanks in advance.
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post #2968 of 3529
5/9/12 at 5:27am
Quote:
Originally Posted by audioguy View Post

I am having my Control4 system updated this Friday and was hoping that there is some IR command that will allow me to directly select aspect ratio (in my case, either none or A).

Thanks in advance.

All the remote control IR (and 232) Codes are documented in GaryB's Remote Control Guide.
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post #2969 of 3529
5/9/12 at 12:05pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Orangevee View Post


So if I understand, there are 16 aperture steps, 0 being the brightest (lowest on/off contrast) and -16 is the highest on/off contrast (but least bright).

Am I getting this right?

Also, I've heard "using both lens"... Is there two lens systems in the projector??? By using an aperture closest to -16, does this mean you're only using one lens and hence better picture quality? Can someone explain this to me?

Only one lens on all models, but dual iris on the rs55/65 vs single iris on the rs45. That's probably where the misunderstanding comes from.

The dual iris only matters in practice if you get enough brightness to close the aperture down to -13 or more. You get better on/off with the dual iris fully closed, but at the cost of close to unusable brightness unless you have a very small screen and/or use it at the shortest throw with a high gain screen. In most cases on the rs55/65 you'll need to open up the iris at -13 or more, especially as the lamp ages, losing some of this advantage re on/off vs the rs45 (especially if you're trying to get similar brightness).

The rs45 is brighter but has a slightly higher black floor.
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post #2970 of 3529
5/9/12 at 12:54pm
As I've mentioned before about the IRIS on this projector (and this was true to a certain extent on the RS20 as well)...

I find that a by-the-numbers attempt to get contrast only goes so far. There's an interesting interplay between image brightness itself, and also it seems how the JVC's iris works, that makes playing with iris settings by eye re contrast to pay dividends.

I'll just watch the picture and click the iris a step at a time open or more closed. What tends to happen is there are significant changes in how contrasty the image LOOKs at different given positions - that is a jump in the brightest areas of the image will look obvious, but a raising of the dark areas will not look nearly as apparent, and so the image has gained at least perceptually "more" contrast. Sometimes this actually works in clicking the iris up, sometimes down. And sometimes continuing to click the iris open starts to lose a sort of equilibrium and I start to notice higher black levels too.

All in all, I'm very happy the JVC projector's offer this feature, given how often I use it to tweak the image to my satisfaction.
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