Official JVC X30 / RS45 owner's thread! - Page 59

I decided to try my I-Scan Duo using ChromoPure software. Attached are a few of my first results

Hey guys, first post here. I've been reading these forums for over a year now trying to decide which projector to buy. I got in on the AVS RS45 pre-order deal (thanks Mike!), which was really great. I'm very happy with it so far. I paired it with a Da-Lite HP 2.4 120" screen and a 13 or 14' throw (sitting a few inches above our heads). Looks really great to me. I'm coming from a 4 or 5 year old Panasonic plasma and I've never had a projector before. Here are some first impressions:

Out of the box the colors looked great to me! I don't have a trained eye for these things though, but I liked the way it looked. The only problem I noticed was the blacks were too strong (crushed?). For example, an actor's face would be half lit and half in shadow, but the shadowed part was pretty much solid black when there should've been some detail. I've been tweaking this setting with the help of the AVS disc, and it looks better now.

The brightness seems good, but it's not quite as bright as I had imagined after reading all of the comments about the HP screens and the brightness of this projector. Maybe it's because I've not had any other projectors before this one, so I take brightness for granted coming from TVs. Don't get me wrong though, it is bright enough for me, I was just expecting brighter I guess

Setting up the projector and navigating the menus was all really easy. I wasn't sure what to expect exactly after reading these forums and seeing so many different settings and terms thrown around. The manual is good enough to answer any questions about the menus I had.

I love how quiet it is. In normal mode the thing doesn't make a sound. I've put it in high mode a few times to see how loud it is, and it's definitely noticeable. I don't think I'd have a problem ignoring it during a movie though if I had to.

So I tried to figure out if the convergence on my projector was good or not. I don't really know what I'm doing. I loaded up the AVS disc and went to the convergence patterns. I put on the cross pattern and stood a few feet away and it looked fine to me. There was another one with a bunch of boxes, each with a dot in the center. The lines looked okay to me in that one but the dots appeared to be different colors. I wasn't sure if that was an illusion or what. The most worrying to me was the vertical convergence test with the red/green/blue bars stacked vertically. It appeared to me that some of the vertical bars didn't line up evenly. I went into the menus and tried shifting them left or right but then they were WAY out of whack, so maybe that was just an illusion as well.

Here's a question for those of you with HTPCs connected to it. How does moving the mouse around feel? When I connected my laptop to my receiver and then to the projector I could detect input lag when moving my mouse around. It wasn't terrible, but it was distracting, and I wouldn't want to play any FPS games like that. I haven't tried troubleshooting this yet. I played a few console games briefly, and I haven't noticed any lag there though. I need to do some more tests, but I was just wondering if anyone else had noticed that or if it was possibly my laptop or 40ft HDMI cable to the receiver.

Anyway, thanks for all the great info and help through the posts on these forums!

There is a slight bit of input lag with the mouse, however when you compare this to the other models that have come out recently (Epson 5010 I'm looking at you) its lightyears better. A DLP projector such as the Mits 7800 or BenQ w7000 should in theory be a lot faster, but I made a small sacrifice for the black levels this projector offers among other things.

I will post a photo of the exact lag in reference to a CRT monitor soon, I'm busy renforcing my ceiling to accept the weight of this guy at the moment.

Yeah..I'm thinking he's accustom to the harder, detailed look of dlp. All of them have that look IME. Not that they resolve any more than lcos. It's a matter of allowing yourself to adjust. I'm still adjusting to the JVC. It gives certain movies a glassy smooth look. I still find myself checking to see if CMD is engaged.

If anyone has the movie Indiana Jones and the Kingdom of the Crystal Skull. Try it on this projector, it looks almost like a video. The processing used in the RS45 is darn good! I see some mention grain, I haven't seen the first indication of grain on any movie I've played.

I didn't buy this projector for 3D. That being said I was pretty impressed with The Ultimate Wave Tahiti. My front row seating is 10' away from 120" diag screen. Actually, the image would be around 94" diag for this material.

The image had plenty of depth and things come out in front of your face. I wasn't expecting that since my experience at the theater has been horrid. I will not see movies in 3D at the theater. However, I would choose to see them on the JVC. Even at 17' throw there was enough brightness in my calibrated Cinema mode. When the bulb ages I will just pump up the lamp to normal or open the aperture up all the way.

Since 3D never interested me much I don't know the answer to this question. I read somewhere (don't know if it's these JVC glasses) that you could adjust the glasses light. Maybe those were xpands or monsters because I don't see any button other than on/off on these JVC glasses.

Gno- JOIN THE DARK SIDE! You won't regret it!

Tried these settings but it crushed everything for me. For the time being I'm at HDMI Enhanced with the following:

Color Temp 7000
Gamma Custom 3 - 2.0
Brightness -6
Contrast 14
Aperture -5

Still trying different things...

You must have your BR player or HTPC output set to Full RGB 0-255?
If I used these settings with that output, it would crush everything here as well.

For those who are interested, here's how the RS45's color tracks throughout the color space.

 

AdvancedColorManagementReport.pdf 167.13671875k . file

Rarely will this prejector be used without some degree of vertical lens shift. I simply look at the lens image on the surface glass of the lens. I insist orn getting it horizontally centered. I have it table mounted and so be it if I have to use a click or two of lens shift. I center it ny eye and use a soft piece of marked paper to measure how far the edges are from each center and move the projector and lens shift accordingly. The same could be done to get vertical shift balanced but then I would have to shim the table if the feet adjustment didn't have enough play. Like I say, a click or two no problem.

Ya sorry first time with a projector still learning. I changed the setting to limited but noticed I had to set brightness and contrast to 0 to get detail out of the shadows. I used your color temp settings which improved skin tones.

I'm flipping back and forth from your settings with brightness and contrast at 0 to HDMI enhanced with brightness at -4 and contrast at 12. Both settings I have aperture at -5 and Gamma at 2.0

Watched Polar Express in 3D tonight and it looked great. I still really wish that CMD was active in 3D but maybe an upgrade will be in place for next year with these improvements and more. If not, I'll enjoy the fantastic image this projector is putting out and hopefully it will remain reliable. No ghosting seen in Polar Express but there weren't many bright scenes though.

On a side note the flicker I think I am seeing is the glasses themselves. I when I put the glasses on with the lights still on everything was flickering. At a little time passes it goes away. Are the shutters actually moving faster or are my eyes just adjusting? I dunno.

^^^^^^^^ Agreed! Maybe next year for CMD for 3d.

Watched Monsters vs Aliens today and the 3d was fantastic! There was a fair amount of ghosting though off/on throughout. The scene in the beginning with the paddle ball was a trip!

We also just watched A Christmas Carol which looked great with solid 3d. No ghosting in this one

Use standard HDMI on the RS45 with 16-235 output on your player.Try my settings except for contrast and brightness.. Use the AVS 709 or another calibration disc to set those two accordingly. Gamma A so far seems to work best here. Do you have access to the movie "Water for Elephants"? There's a scene about 14 minutes into the movie where the young man boards a train in the middle of the night. This is a very low apl scene(very dark).
When he boards the train a man grabs him and holds him as though he will throw him off the train. You should be able to see the faces of all the men in the dark. Your blacks should still look black not grayish or hazy.

Pause that scene where the camera is on the face of the young man as he is being held. Roll through Gamma settings A,B,C,D and also your custom Gammas.
You can see on this scene as you raise your contrast that his face becomes easier to see.This little test will give you an idea of how the Gamma and contrast affect the image. You can't raise contrast too high or it will crush your white detail.

If you have an HTPC with the Media center. You can use the calibration videos embedded to get your contrast and brightness in line.

@Chris - thanks for clarifying costs of 3D. I didn't know 3D implementation didn't raise cost of a projector all that much. I like the added brightness, but I want to avoid 3D.

What third-party 3D glasses should I buy that would be bigger than the JVC's, more comfortable, and hopefully functionally work just as well?

The Xpand 104 are even less comfortable than the new JVC's. They are tighter.
I have not tried the Monster glasses but they have received good reviews. Not sure if you need the kit with the emitter included.

I haven't seen any grain in any decently mastered movies, I got rid of that by fixing gamma, contrast, brightness, sharpness, and turning detail enhancement off.

In some bright scenes with poorer sources (especially Netflix or highly compressed signals), the DLP still smooths things out a bit better, not sure why.

I was watching the show "Persons Unknown" on Netflix, it is probably 95% bright scenes, I had to favor it on the DLP just slightly over the JVC, but it's the Netflix compression that causes it. I'm pretty sure if I went out and bought it on bluray I'd probably like it on the JVC just as much.

Tom,

Can you tell us how the RS45 compares to other models(DLP,LCOS, LDC ETC.) that you have tested in the past as far as the test results you just posted goes?

I need a 30 ft. HDMI cable for my new location for my RS45. Will 30ft 22AWG CL2 Standard HDMI® Cable from Monoprice work with 3D?

I personally like perfect path 700 series

thanks for the heads up on the 104's. I have no interest in the new JVC's, they look too small, the original / Xpand 103's were just big enough for my prescription glasses.

The MV3D's are light and comfortable and easily fit with my glasses. The best part is, I can use them on the JVC and Sony.

I heard it does but have not tested it myself.

I have the same question..planning for the future...though I am probably looking at a 40 ft long hdmi cable. Will a 40 ft work as well?

This is what I have set for Bluray movies and it works pretty darn well for me....try it....yet to find the middle ground to play regular DVDs....anyone has any luck with DVD settings on this PJ? With my Bluray setting regular DVDs sucks. I'm still fiddling.


User mode 1
6500K
Gamma = Custom1 set to 2.3
Sharpness = 15 (default was 30)
Detail Enhancement = 5 (default was 10)
Brightness = 5
Contrast= 0
Color = -1
Tint = -4
Lens Aperture = -13
CMD = Mode 3


@Coderguy....what is your current setting? I want to try yours since you have a good convergence like mine (I'm guessing). Thx.

The MV3D's are light and comfortable and easily fit with my glasses. The best part is, I can use them on the JVC and Sony.[/quote]

Hi Zombie:

Is any special hook-up required to use the MV3d's with the Jvc? Can the monsters be used with the jvc and / or expand glasses at the same time (with JVC emitter)?

Thank You!

The MV3D just plugs right into the JVC, same as the original transmitter. You will need to power it with a blackberry charger that uses a micro-usb connector.

If you want to use both the JVC and MV3D transmitter, you can make a splitter cable using some inexpensive patch cables I found on the internet. This works perfect and allows the JVC/Xpand103/104, etc and MV3D's to work at the same time.



MV3D's in the back, JVC/Xpand 103's middle, Nvidia 3D vision in the front. I see the new JVC's are even smaller than the original, I don't know what they were thinking. For people that wear glasses, the MV3D's are great.

Zombie - Fantastic & extremely helpful reply!

Thank You very much!!!!

I'm using the MonsterVision Max 3D and Optoma Technology BG-3DRFGLASSES(Same glasses). They are very comfortable and have significantly bigger lens then the JVC's. Configuration took me a while to figure out, but once configured they are comparable to the JVCs in brightness and crosstalk. Lens have a neutral gray that does not

These glasses used to be extremely expensive but now with competition they are around half the cost of the JVC's.

I was playing around with this last night... I didn't realize until reading here that the lens on my projector (first time projector owner) was shifted up so high from JVC.

My projector is ceiling mounted 17'4" away from a 123" screen, the lens is 9" below a 10' ceiling height. My screen is 12" from the top of the ceiling and the viewing distance is 16".

I don't want my projector hanging down into the middle of the room in order to get it level with the screen. If I reset the lens shift to 0, I have to tilt the projector down so that it is pointing at the screen and the keystone is horrible. (I understand that adjusting the keystone is not desirable). If I mount the projector level to the ground/ceiling I have to use a lot of lens shift to get the image on the screen, but there is no keystone effect.

Being brand new to projectors, I am not sure what the best compromise is... I would assume, leaving the projector level and using the vertical lens shift (which is how I have it now).