Official JVC X30 / RS45 owner's thread! - Page 109

So would the "ideal" position be having the lens center aligned with the screen center along the vertical axis?

Now, I now that this position is usually not practical due to things (like people's heads) getting in the way, but if that were not an issue, would center lens to center screen, or as close to it as possible, be the ideal?

I framed a 2' high vertical opening in the HT rear wall to the PJ cabinet to give myself some flexibility in vertical position.

I could position the PJ at the very top of the opening, or lower down if that is better. My PJ will be in a cabinet behind the rear wall of the HT, so there won't be an issue of people accidentally hitting their heads against it. I just have to clear the height of people's heads when seated in the second (raised) row.

If the PJ opening I have framed is still higher than the seated height of people in the raised 2nd row, should I try to position my PJ as low as possible in my PJ cabinet?

BTW, I framed the PJ opening to be centered horizontally with respect to the screen, so I should not have to use the horizontal shift at all.

Yes, the ideal position is to match the position of the PJ (center of lens) to the center of the screen (both vertical and horizontal center). Ideal is however usually not realistic.

In situations that require a conditional decision, it is better to test the projector at the mounting spot before permanently mounting it.

You can use fishing string to see where the image goes, tack or tape a piece of string to the wall where the bottom of the screen will be, take the string and tighten it and pull it towards the center of where you think the pJ LENS should go. The fishing string now represents the bottom of the projected image (you can tell if it will be in your way). You can also measure it using an online graphing calculator or you can eye it, just draw an imaginary line from the lens to the bottom of the screen in your mind.

Another method is to simply temp-mount the projector. You have to be careful though, a tall shelf or a ladder is one way to test it, tie it to the ladder with a rope or bungy cord for safety so it does not fall.

BTW, for any who may be looking for 3 pin mini-DIN cables (or connectors) to either extend the cable from the 3D emitter or to create a splitter to be able to use both the JVC IR emitter and the RF Monster emitter simultaneously, the website www.stockcable.com is now back up and the cable is available.

The site was down all March, but reopened over the weekend. They only have 10' lengths, but the price is not bad, about $10 shipped.

I also found another site: www.digikey.com

This site seems to have more stuff and may be a supplier for other sites. They have cables and also the connectors separately if you want to make your own.

They also have cables that have a termination on one side (both male and female versions) and bare direct wires on the other side. For those interested in making splitters this would probably be the easiest:

Buy 2 female to direct wire cables and 1 male to direct wire cable, and then just connect them with some wire nuts.

The minimum length is 6' and the price is about $7 each, and the connectors alone are only about $2 each (the connectors require soldering). The funny thing is that the only version of the 3 pin mini-DIN they don't seem to sell is the complete male to female extension cable.

You can try searching for: cbl assy mini din 3pos

That should give you some of the male or female to direct wire cable assemblies.

Thanks, coderguy. I will try that string trick.

I will have an adjustable shelf in my PJ cabinet, so I can just test different heights, although I think I should just be able to do the same thing by tying the string to a vertical post that I put temporarily in my PJ cabinet to simulate where lens might be.

I should just then be able to slide the string up and down the post to mimic different potential vertical lens positions and then just try to match that position as closely as possible when I put the shelf and PJ in place.

I guess if I ran strings from the lens position to both the top and bottom of the screen I could also easily see the diameter and position of the circle of projected light at the entrance to the PJ cabinet opening (I guess I could do some math, but this seems a lot easier).

I would be interested in this for potentially blocking out most of the opening with something (maybe a dark piece of MDF or even poster board) and just cut a round opening just big enough for the light to shine through.

I'm thinking of doing this to help minimize the size of the opening through which dust can enter into the PJ cavity (and possibly to give the HT a more sleek appearance).

Does anybody who have their PJ's in a cabinet vs. ceiling mounted do this (cover the front of the cabinet with only a cut out for the light coming through)?

I currently have the opening framed to be 2' H x 1.5' W, but may reduce the W when I trim out the opening with casing as I think I will be more interested in having vertical vs. horizontal flexibility. It's not a huge opening, but still, since the RS45 no longer has the dust cover, IIRC, I'm wondering if this would be worth it.

You can also just use linear division from the formula shown below.

For instance, if you wanted to know how high the bottom of the projected image would be for each foot from the screen, take the difference in height between the projector's lens from floor and the bottom of the screen from floor, and divide it by the throw distance (projector distance back from screen), then incrementally add it back to the screen from floor height. It sounds more complex than it really is...

FORMULA

Let's use some simple parameters for an example equation, replace with your own numbers:
70" = PJ center lens from Floor
30" = Screen Bottom from Floor
18' = PJ mounted throw from screen

Given the above numbers, there is a 40" difference in height (70-30) between 18 feet of mounting distance.
40" / 18 = 2.2 inches

Each foot back from the screen means the bottom of projected path is 2.2" higher than 30" (screen bottom from floor).

Therefore, the bottom of projected image occurs at the following points
1 foot back from the screen = 32.2" above floor, 2 feet back from the screen = 34.4" above floor, etc...

To find any point, use multiplication, so if seating distance were 10 feet back, then it's 10 x 2.2" = 22" higher than the bottom of the screen, so given the above parameters, the projected image would need to clear 52" (30"+22") at a seating distance of 10 feet away...

You have to plug in your own numbers though. You can simply reverse the equation using subtraction if wanting to figure it from the projector's mounting spot towards the screen, although doesn't really matter since using the numbers either way will result in the same answer.

I have used DigiKeys they are very good but their shipping can be expensive. Mouser is another place that has some of the parts and their shipping costs are usually quite low.

Here's what the new lamp looks like that I recieved from JVC today.

You had to get a new lamp already?

Trying to update firmware, and update is failing.
Settings:

• static IP address for PJ: 192.168.0.2
• static IP for PC (Win7-64): 192.168.0.1
• unplug both HDMI

Firmware updater messages:
PJ fails with Standby/On light turning Orange.
After power reset, PJ is back in operation
Current Soft. Version: 25.051

Any ideas?

New Calculator Bug Fix:
I just implemented a BUG fix related to vertical lens shift calculations, the bottom of the calculation for people floor mounting still needs some slight adjustment (but not worried about that right now). If anyone finds anymore issues in my V-SHIFT calculations, please let me know.

See release notes here on new version of calculator:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...8#post21864128

To sum it up, I believe this fixed the extra inches added to the JVC and Sony allowed max v-shift. For instance, the old version used to say JVC allowed an extra 10% per 50" screen height than what it was really supposed to say.

@BLADEMAN
Try the RS-55 thread, tons of info about gettting the update working.

Yup ..the other one exploded at less than 400 hours. First sign was a drastic dimming. The metal fin works more like a clip in a water hose. It looks to be designed to force or channel more air to the lamp.

Welp, water hose cooling might be the way to go after all.

I wonder how many new projector buyers bought the wrong projector thanks to my 5"+ V-shift bug on the Sony and JVC v-shift calcs (hah) and then realized it didn't fit in their room, well at least I did warn them. Just glad I think I finally fixed that bug, hurray...

Haven't really had much time to work on it since Christmas because of busy work schedule.

Read entire RS-55 thread regarding firmware. Nothing I didn't already do, except the USB firmware update method which I don't think is possible since the firmware file isn't available as standalone.

The problem has to do with a setting on your computer. Open Network Connections and manually plug in the numbers. Go to internet connection properties then go to internet protocol 4 and go to properties and manually put in the numbers from firmware update instructions.

I've read before that ansi contrast (maybe on/off too?) is improved on JVC's when you use some lens shift (at least vertical), the most improvement at the extreme ends of lens shift.

??

I would guess you'd loose the advantage of going through the best part of the lens, so it wouldn't be as sharp (more CA, etc), and I think the lumes suffer a bit?

At least this is what I remember reading on the AVS forums on the older models.

??

Make sure your PJ cabinet is forcibly vented/cooled with a AC duct or evacuation fans. If you've never had a PJ before you may not know that they are essentially a mini-heater, literally

There is no visible improvement in contrast when moving lens shift that I can notice. It might be there, but it'd be hard to see. I doubt most assertions about ANSI contrast these days. There is room to play with lens shift and even in losing some convergence and it will still be sharp generally no matter what you do with the lens shift. I don't think any benefit to ANSI will help enough to matter, changing the IRIS is going to affect that a lot more than changing lens shift.

The JVC has sort of a textured look from a slightly more grainy image than some DLP's I've seen, but in a way I also like the textured look. The texture grain varies depending on how much you turn up the sharpness and NR. The amount it shows also varies depending on the quality of the source.A lumagen processor might improve it more. I don't think it's purely just the projector as much as it is just the way it does the processing of the image.

The bigger issue on the JVC's is just getting the GAMMA calibrated, probably why so many people claim ANSI contrast issues. So many projectors have such flat GAMMAS OOTB that most people don't even realize how lucky they are. Calibration software is partly to blame, it often shows you ZOOMED out tiny graphs of GAMMA making you think wow that's close enough, but GAMMA is one thing you need to really get spot on or at least balanced correctly. I mean even on my $800 Viewsonic, it has a perfect GAMMA curve OOTB with not a single adjustment but setting it to a preset. Same with the Mits hc4000, perfect gamma on the unit I had. Just having a perfectly flat gamma anywhere between 2.25 and 2.35 is a good start, 2.2 to 2.3 is my general target instead of 2.4 since I use the IRIS at -10 now. Alternatively, you can use bumps at 5 IRE to 25 IRE, and then again at 80 IRE to 95 IRE, as long as you do the bumps in the right directions.

FWIR, the ansi contrast measurement difference was quite measurable. I believe this was on the RS1 series, maybe even RS10's, etc. Though I don't think the new models should act differently.

Thanks, coderguy. I'll use that formula when I set up the position of my PJ.


Thanks for the input, fleaman.

Originally in my HT design I had a single closet dedicated to all my equipment, including the PJ and all the other equipement. The closet was behind the rear wall of the HT with openings cut through the wall into the HT and I included a quiet Panasonic ventilation fan at the top.

Since the PJ was in that closet, the placement of the closet was centered horizontally with respect to the screen, so more or less near the center of the wall.

However, later I realized that access to the rest of my equipment (like the BDP and receiver) would not be ideal since my second row of seating would not leave a huge amount of clearance in front the rear wall.

So then I split the AV closet into a PJ cabinet for only the PJ near the center of the wall, and then a separate closet in one corner of the room for all the other stuff. The fan got moved to this AV closet when I redesigned things and initially the PJ cabinet did not have a fan.

However, at the last minute I decided to add a second fan in the PJ cabinet dedicated to ventilating that space. I thought it might be unnecessary as it was only 1 piece of equipment, but then was concerned that the enclosed space was so small, so I went ahead with it.

Now that you mention that the PJ is quite a heat emitter, I'm really glad I added that second fan in the PJ closet!

Yah anything is possible, but you know what my conclusion on ANSI contrast was, that not sure it helps that much.
I am a man of many words, you are a man with fewer words. Perhaps those few words state volumes more than my many words :P

Could be...

Yeah, wasn't gonna debate the whole ansi contrast thingy---which I myself seem to have no strong opinion/conclusion on (seems to be an area of dark magic for some reason), was only making the point, or at least recollecting it (from other members posts in the past), that they showed quite a bit ansi contrast measure difference improvement from zero offset to max offset.

Hence, the reason I commented on the topic of 'where's the best place to mount the PJ'.

Ultimately it would be nice/cool if someone could do some ansi contrast measures on the RS45 from zero to max offset, even though I know it can be hard to do accurate ansi contrast measures....


Trust me, I lean towards the rambling side of post writing....it takes discipline for me to be concise! You too can throttle the force grasshopper!

Just finished reading the review of X30/RS45 on Home Theater reviews http://www.hometheater.com/category/projector-reviews. The x30 as far as 2D is concerned slayed basically every projector in its price range recently in overall contrast and dynamic range! For example the Epson 5010 measured 3200:1 in eco mode. The RS45/x30 clocked in at 45,100:1 with aperture closed on eco mode. Eco mode with aperture fully open still came in at 27600:1!
Not even the VW95 could manage more than just half of that at its best. Chris also claimed this unit sharper than the VW95,vw30 or Epson 5010 he recently reviewed.

I read it today as well, it was a good article highlighting the pros (2D) and the cons (3D). I don't know who wrote their X70 article last month (it wasn't Kris), but it should be re-published after claiming it only measured 10,700:1. Something was obviously wrong with the projector or the measuring equipment.

I agree, there must have been something terribly wrong with the measuring device or the projector. It wouldn't make much sense for the higher end model to measure less than the entry level.
I'm glad to see a high end reviewer give the RS45/x30 its just dues. It ain't perfect, but for 99.99% of my viewing it does everything right.

Most reviews don't measure native on/off properly at high numbers, the reason is because you have to measure near the lens and use estimation procedures. I pretty much ignore native on/off measurements from reviewers on LCOS projectors. It is most likely the method they used when they measured it. The real native on/off of the JVC's should be close to MFR specs one would hope, my RS-45 is ballpark MFR specs.

Yeah, from the x30 review Kris states he measured 9 inches from the lens face. His eco mode, no aperture measurements coincide with another reviewer online.

Did they take the review down? That link brings up the Vivitek H1085 (April 4th review) and nothing newer, no RS45 on the home page either.

You should see all the reviews excluding this month reviews. In order to see the newest reviews, you'll need to purchase the $10, 12 digital subscription. This month has the Epson 5010, JVC X30 and Sony VW1000 part 2.

The digital subscription is a bargain! It looks great on zinio with the new ipad hires screen.

Ah, I see. No subscription here.

I'll wait