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Official JVC X30 / RS45 owner's thread! - Page 110

post #3271 of 4181
Quote:
Originally Posted by fleaman View Post

Ah, I see. No subscription here.

I'll wait


LMAO...and I thought I was a cheapskate.
post #3272 of 4181
Ahh, that's too much for me as well. Something about paying for online content. Plus that's 3 more episodes of Fringe on VUDU I can watch. I gotta stop doing that, $3 per ep is a killer, just going to buy the discs or something... I tried Hulu Plus, it had a few ok things on there, Terra Nova (lol the old commander guy from Avatar, it was like a bad version of Avatar without the aliens). Hulu Plus is something to buy for one month, then you run out of stuff to watch on it and go back to Netflix. Hulu also had "Once upon a time", good PQ and action sometimes, good acting but the story is sappy and ridiculous.
post #3273 of 4181
Quote:
Originally Posted by Joesyah View Post

LMAO...and I thought I was a cheapskate.

I'm not in the market for a new PJ for at least a year, so waiting a month or 2 for the RS45 review to pop up is no biggie. Not to mention I've already read a ton of reviews on the RS45, here and professional.

It's $10 saved towards a new PJ
post #3274 of 4181
Quote:
Originally Posted by coderguy View Post

Ahh, that's too much for me as well. Something about paying for online content. Plus that's 3 more episodes of Fringe on VUDU I can watch. I gotta stop doing that, $3 per ep is a killer, just going to buy the discs or something... I tried Hulu Plus, it had a few ok things on there, Terra Nova (lol the old commander guy from Avatar, it was like a bad version of Avatar without the aliens). Hulu Plus is something to buy for one month, then you run out of stuff to watch on it and go back to Netflix. Hulu also had "Once upon a time", good PQ and action sometimes, good acting but the story is sappy and ridiculous.

I use Hulu plus and Netflix. I'm too cheap and too busy to pay for cable. I recently tried a WD TV live(wireless version) with the JVC. Once the JVC had a basic calibration, my movies and TVs shows look phenomenal on it! I plan to buy another one for my bedroom TV. The CEC HDMI works like a charm with the JVC. When I turn on or off the WD TV live. It does the same for the JVC. So I only have to use one remote.

So far it has played every ripped movie I have on hard drive. It's quiet, efficient and smaller than a mini mac. It also checks for its own updates. I basically stopped using two of my HTPCs because of it. I love it!

Too bad I can't get you fellows to spend 10 bucks. Hell that's a combo meal at Johnny Rocket's in L.A.
You're missing out on some great reviews!
post #3275 of 4181
I am paying for cable but never use it, it doesn't work because the cable guy mis-split the signal and weakned it too much. I need to call them and cancel it, don't know why I'm wasting money on it.
post #3276 of 4181
Quote:
Originally Posted by coderguy View Post

I am paying for cable but never use it, it doesn't work because the cable guy mis-split the signal and weakned it too much. I need to call them and cancel it, don't know why I'm wasting money on it. Wasted $400, better call tomorrow. Also I'm ticked off I can't watch anything in HD on Demand on Comcast, they have diddly squat.

The cable companies are really being complacent, they are following the same school of thinking that ends up killing off computer companies, stick to the old school and hope the new school doesn't overtake you. They better get 80% of the stuff on HD on Demand if they are going to make people pay, otherwise Cable is worthless since you have to follow their schedule or use the DVR and record everything. The next generation of viewers is going to make the cable companies irrelevant unless they do start owning up.

I really hate cable. I only watch sports on cable, so I only pay $45 a month just for tbs, tnt, ESPN, and ESPN2. Seems like a waste for 4 channels.
post #3277 of 4181
Does anyone know if any of the 3rd party universal 3D glasses work with this projectors emitter? I read somewhere that the XpanD 3D glasses previously worked with the X3 projector. Is this still the case or is there some other brand/brands that work with the X30/RS45? Thanks in advance for your replies.
post #3278 of 4181
Quote:
Originally Posted by psalm234 View Post

Does anyone know if any of the 3rd party universal 3D glasses work with this projectors emitter? I read somewhere that the XpanD 3D glasses previously worked with the X3 projector. Is this still the case or is there some other brand/brands that work with the X30/RS45? Thanks in advance for your replies.

The Xpand 104's will work but I suggest getting the Monster Vision which are on Sale at Amazon for less money and come with their own emitter. Zombee had a link to how you can make a y connector cable to use both the Monster and JVC emitters at the same time.
post #3279 of 4181
If AVS has the Xpand 103's still in stock, they area great inexpensive option. They work with the JVC glasses and same emitter.
post #3280 of 4181
I am building a HT in a new house and I would like to find out where the projector should ideally be mounted on the ceiling. The manual has a scheme for this on 16/9, but I am about to purchase a 2,35/1 screen, so I was wondering if and how this affects things. I want to be able to switch between 2,35/1 and 16/9 using the on-board lens-memory-motor.

Can someone help me?
2,35/1 Screen W = 130" > diagonal about 143"
hence: same height, but 16/9 > diagonal about 111"

Manual says, 110" for 16/9 wide: 3.31m (130") to tele: 6.75m (265").

The avalable distance from screen to back wall is 6.00m (236") which means a max projection distance of 215" from lens to screen. Should I put it there, or get closer to the screen? The closest I would put it would be right behind the viewer, @ 150" from screen.

Viewing distance is 140" (yeah I know that the screen is very wide - 130" - , but that's the way we like it)
Ceiling height where the projector goes is 8 feet. Screen is exact in between floor and this height: screen center at 4 feet height. Projector is on 0° axis.

Thanks!
post #3281 of 4181
Quote:
Originally Posted by erwinfrombelgium View Post

I am building a HT in a new house and I would like to find out where the projector should ideally be mounted on the ceiling. The manual has a scheme for this on 16/9, but I am about to purchase a 2,35/1 screen, so I was wondering if and how this affects things. I want to be able to switch between 2,35/1 and 16/9 using the on-board lens-memory-motor.

Can someone help me?
2,35/1 Screen W = 130" > diagonal about 143"
hence: same height, but 16/9 > diagonal about 111"

Manual says, 110" for 16/9 wide: 3.31m (130") to tele: 6.75m (265").

The avalable distance from screen to back wall is 6.00m (236") which means a max projection distance of 215" from lens to screen. Should I put it there, or get closer to the screen? The closest I would put it would be right behind the viewer, @ 150" from screen.

Viewing distance is 140" (yeah I know that the screen is very wide - 130" - , but that's the way we like it)
Ceiling height where the projector goes is 8 feet. Screen is exact in between floor and this height: screen center at 4 feet height. Projector is on 0° axis.

Thanks!

The throw ratio for the RS45 is 1.4 to 2.8.
Your 130" wide 2.35 screen is going to be 130/2.35= 55.32" high.
A 16:9 image with 55.32" of height is 55.32 x 1.78=98.47" wide.
For 16:9 this gives you a throw range of 98.47" x 1.4=138" to 98.47" x 2.8= 276".
The throw range for the 130" wide image is 130" x 1.4=182" to 130" x 2.8=364".
138" to 276"
182" to 364"
You have to select a throw distance that is within both of those parameters. So you have the range of 182" to 276" to choose from. I would select from towards the lower end (depending on screen gain) so that you can maximize lumens for the 130" wide image.
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post #3282 of 4181
The throw ratio is 1.37 to 2.8, measured with a laser, unless there are MFR variances. Also confirmed from 2 other users the 1.37. Although when using the absolute real minimum, you have to be careful. Don't forget to add in the distance needed behind the projector for cabling and fan intake (about 6" to 8" to be safe), as well as the length of the projector itself from lens to back.

@Erwin
You're screen is too big for this projector unless you fall into one of the following categories:
a) Don't mind watching a dim image eventually, b) replacing lamps more than normal, or c) you are a low-usage user regarding number of hours of use per year on the projector.

Even on a good day (good lamp), this projector loses lumens fast over time, the maximum size I would do is about 120" without gain. Seems many people setup their image too dim in projectors, so to each their own, but this would be more in following the proper standards of not dropping below 10 to 12 fL too quickly. If it were me on that screen size, I would pick a different projector entirely.
post #3283 of 4181
Quote:
Originally Posted by jbrown15 View Post

But as far as movie viewing we both feel that my RS45 is a fairly good step up in picture quality for watching movies.

Almost felt like comparing my RS45 to a RS65. Just an overall set up in all areas. If your main use is movies I feel you'd be hard pressed to find a better 2D picture with any other projector for under $5000, maybe even $6000.

IMO it also holds its own for viewing sports too. I had a Superbowl party this year, and just turned the projector up to high lamp mode and opened up the apeture a little and it threw an awesome picture. We had about 20 people and everybody raved about how great the picture was. So far I'm loving my decision to go with the RS45.

Me/us too.

I haven't calibrated ours and I am not a pro like you guys are, but the 2D picture on the RS45 is spectacular.

Absolutely no regrets in purchasing our RS45. At first I was just going to get a really big LCD TV. I am very happy I didn't because the feel a movie has from a projector is entirely different than from an LCD. There is just something about the size and crispness of the image.
post #3284 of 4181
My bulb blew after 500 hours. JVC is replacing it for free even though its been 4 months since I bought it. Bad news again about the standard RS hand grenade bulb but really good service. They have got to come with a bulb as good as their picture and service. The 3D even looks good when my RS45 is working..
post #3285 of 4181
Quote:
Originally Posted by AV Science Sales 5 View Post

The throw ratio for the RS45 is 1.4 to 2.8.
Your 130" wide 2.35 screen is going to be 130/2.35= 55.32" high.
A 16:9 image with 55.32" of height is 55.32 x 1.78=98.47" wide.
For 16:9 this gives you a throw range of 98.47" x 1.4=138" to 98.47" x 2.8= 276".
The throw range for the 130" wide image is 130" x 1.4=182" to 130" x 2.8=364".
138" to 276"
182" to 364"
You have to select a throw distance that is within both of those parameters. So you have the range of 182" to 276" to choose from. I would select from towards the lower end (depending on screen gain) so that you can maximize lumens for the 130" wide image.

Thanks a lot for that!

My preferred distance would be 200" which is completely in line with your guidelines. This is 60" behind viewers, which helps to minimise the noise from the fan (although the review I read mentioned it was extremely silent). It's also right behind the acoustic part of the ceiling, so it's out of the way.
post #3286 of 4181
Quote:
Originally Posted by coderguy View Post

@Erwin
You're screen is too big for this projector unless you fall into one of the following categories:
a) Don't mind watching a dim image eventually, b) replacing lamps more than normal, or c) you are a low-usage user regarding number of hours of use per year on the projector.

Even on a good day (good lamp), this projector loses lumens fast over time, the maximum size I would do is about 120" without gain. Seems many people setup their image too dim in projectors, so to each their own, but this would be more in following the proper standards of not dropping below 10 to 12 fL too quickly. If it were me on that screen size, I would pick a different projector entirely.

I have to admit I am more of an audiophile then a videophile. The room will be a semi-dedicated HT / 2nd living room. There are big windows, but I think we will use it most after dark. I plan to make the whole room inky black. Batcave matt black! Even the floor and the curtains.

The screen is 1.2 gain white, so this will further increase the brightness.

How many hours of use is hard to to tell, but I presume it will be more intense in the weekend evenings since we are to busy on week days/evenings to make money to pay for the new house! My 17 yo son is a heavy PS3 addict though...

3,000 is really the max I want to spend on the PJ alone. The AT 130" screen will cost 1,800 including 2 black masking panels for 16/9 viewing.

The other 2 projectors I was considdering were of course the Panasonic PTAE7000 and also the Benq W7000. My preference for the JVC is because of the alledged superior blacks and the automated lens memory feature. And we have a JVC 65" RPTV in our current house that we like very much.

If I remember correct, the JVC is about 1,200 lumens, the Panny about 1,600 (measured) and the Benq about 2,000. So the Benq wins. But the lamp of the Panny is supposed to last twice as long, while the JVC's lamp expectance is in between the other two. Impossible for me to know which of the 3 would perform best in our situation / set-up and if the other two are as convenient to switch between 16/9 and widescreen. What do you recommend?

BTW, I am totally underwhelmed by 3D. Hate the glasses, to name one thing.
post #3287 of 4181
JVC is about 1000 lumens at closest throw using Lamp High calibrated, maybe a tad more. Personally, I would probably move the seating closer and just make the screen smaller, but here are some other options.

You could just get a brighter projector or even two projectors. You could get the JVC + Viewsonic Pro8200, or get the Epson 5010 + Pro 8200, setup the Viewsonic for TV (16:9) and set the Epson 5010 or JVC permanently in 2.35 mode. The Epson has no lens memory but 2 projectors should solve that issue. Also note that even though the JVC has a better picture, with the Epson you'll have a torch mode you can use for the giant screen you are doing. You can buy a Viewsonic Pro 8200 for $700 to $800 for gaming and TV use, and use the Epson for everything else. The Viewsonic is actually bright enough for that screen and is better at gaming anyways, besides on that screen you'll burn up lamps too fast with the JVC or Epson.

The Panny is less bright than the JVC, much less, so that one gets scratched. There is NOT another projector in this price range that can compete with the JVC in PQ, but having too DIM of an image is its own PQ issue IMHO that outweighs the positives of the JVC. After any lamp wear on the JVC, it will be too dim with this giant screen, even at 1.2 gain. You could also just get one of the cheaper DLP's and forget about the JVC or Epson entirely and save money in the process.
post #3288 of 4181
Quote:
Originally Posted by coderguy View Post

JVC is about 1000 lumens at closest throw using Lamp High calibrated, maybe a tad more. Personally, I would probably move the seating closer and just make the screen smaller, but here are some other options.

You could just get a brighter projector or even two projectors. You could get the JVC + Viewsonic Pro8200, or get the Epson 5010 + Pro 8200, setup the Viewsonic for TV (16:9) and set the Epson 5010 or JVC permanently in 2.35 mode. The Epson has no lens memory but 2 projectors should solve that issue. Also note that even though the JVC has a better picture, with the Epson you'll have a torch mode you can use for the giant screen you are doing. You can buy a Viewsonic Pro 8200 for $700 to $800 for gaming and TV use, and use the Epson for everything else. The Viewsonic is actually bright enough for that screen and is better at gaming anyways, besides on that screen you'll burn up lamps too fast with the JVC or Epson.

The Panny is less bright than the JVC, much less, so that one gets scratched. There is NOT another projector in this price range that can compete with the JVC in PQ, but having too DIM of an image is its own PQ issue IMHO that outweighs the positives of the JVC. After any lamp wear on the JVC, it will be too dim with this giant screen, even at 1.2 gain. You could also just get one of the cheaper DLP's and forget about the JVC or Epson entirely and save money in the process.

Thanks, I will let the info sink in before I decide. But the Benq W7000 is known to be a very bright projector (in the price range), isn't it? Hence it should be okay for the 130" wide screen?

I measured screen width / viewing distance ratio during cinema visits and we prefer to be almost as close to the screen as the screen is wide. We are in the first 25% of the seats (on center axis) but not in those extra seats in the front of course. So we really like a wide screen. The width gets a lot smaller in 16/9 not to be forgotten.
post #3289 of 4181
Based on the review on AVS and it's forum, I've bought myself a X30 and a 110" Stewart Studiotek 130 Luxus Deluxe. I'm very pleased with the image.

It's not a big deal, but I'm wondering if people recognize the same.

1. The motor of the iris creates a different sound when I'm controlling it to the far right to open the iris. Almost at the end it sounds like it does multiple steps at once.

2. When I use the focus lens control, the image shifts a quarter of an inch to the upper left or the lower right depending on pressing the < or > button respectively on the remote. The image shifts only at one and the same focus point, and I guess it's the middle of the range.
post #3290 of 4181
Quote:
Originally Posted by coderguy View Post

The throw ratio is 1.37 to 2.8, measured with a laser, unless there are MFR variances. Also confirmed from 2 other users the 1.37. Although when using the absolute real minimum, you have to be careful. Don't forget to add in the distance needed behind the projector for cabling and fan intake (about 6" to 8" to be safe), as well as the length of the projector itself from lens to back.

6" to 8" breathing room behind the projector? That makes me sad. I have a small room. 12 feet from screen to back wall. Minus (18" + 6") for the projector leaves 120" throw which will only allow an 87" wide screen? I have looked at the mirror option, folding scale paper layouts into origami but found the only possible configuration had the projector sitting on its back behind my sofa, which according to JVC is a no no. (+/- 30 degrees tilt max.) Frustrating. Looks like I will have to go with the Epson 5010 simply because of throw and projector depth. Even that won't get me anywhere close to the 108" width (50 degrees viewing angle) I was hoping for. Punch a hole in the foundation wall or kick my son out of his adjacent bedroom? Hmmm.
(Truly appreciate all the projector information you provide by the way.)
post #3291 of 4181
People talk about how dim the picture will be on a large (example 135") screen however the rs45 is about 60% brighter if not more than my last projector was at 104"... Makes me wonder how "bad" it is...
post #3292 of 4181
Quote:
Originally Posted by coderguy View Post

The throw ratio is 1.37 to 2.8, measured with a laser, unless there are MFR variances. Also confirmed from 2 other users the 1.37. Although when using the absolute real minimum, you have to be careful. Don't forget to add in the distance needed behind the projector for cabling and fan intake (about 6" to 8" to be safe), as well as the length of the projector itself from lens to back.

@Erwin
You're screen is too big for this projector unless you fall into one of the following categories:
a) Don't mind watching a dim image eventually, b) replacing lamps more than normal, or c) you are a low-usage user regarding number of hours of use per year on the projector.

Even on a good day (good lamp), this projector loses lumens fast over time, the maximum size I would do is about 120" without gain. Seems many people setup their image too dim in projectors, so to each their own, but this would be more in following the proper standards of not dropping below 10 to 12 fL too quickly. If it were me on that screen size, I would pick a different projector entirely.

He did not mention anything about an AT screen, so there are several choices that he could use at 130" wide. He would have a fairly bright image with a 1.4 gain BD. Close mount, you are looking at around 22 Foot Lamberts in high lamp.A really bright image with a 2.7 gain BD. Now if he is trying to light up something like EN4K at 130" wide and no A-lens, then he is really stretching it.
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post #3293 of 4181
Quote:
Originally Posted by DavidK442 View Post

6" to 8" breathing room behind the projector? That makes me sad. I have a small room. 12 feet from screen to back wall. Minus (18" + 6") for the projector leaves 120" throw which will only allow an 87" wide screen? I have looked at the mirror option, folding scale paper layouts into origami but found the only possible configuration had the projector sitting on its back behind my sofa, which according to JVC is a no no. (+/- 30 degrees tilt max.) Frustrating. Looks like I will have to go with the Epson 5010 simply because of throw and projector depth. Even that won't get me anywhere close to the 108" width (50 degrees viewing angle) I was hoping for. Punch a hole in the foundation wall or kick my son out of his adjacent bedroom? Hmmm.
(Truly appreciate all the projector information you provide by the way.)

When using a mirror to bounce the image, you do not angle the projector. The projector is mounted level and the mirror is mounted vertical below or above the projector. Then the image is angled, using the lens shift so that it hits the mirror square, bounces off and then hits the screen.
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post #3294 of 4181
Quote:
Originally Posted by DavidK442 View Post

6" to 8" breathing room behind the projector? That makes me sad. I have a small room. 12 feet from screen to back wall. Minus (18" + 6") for the projector leaves 120" throw which will only allow an 87" wide screen? I have looked at the mirror option, folding scale paper layouts into origami but found the only possible configuration had the projector sitting on its back behind my sofa, which according to JVC is a no no. (+/- 30 degrees tilt max.) Frustrating. Looks like I will have to go with the Epson 5010 simply because of throw and projector depth. Even that won't get me anywhere close to the 108" width (50 degrees viewing angle) I was hoping for. Punch a hole in the foundation wall or kick my son out of his adjacent bedroom? Hmmm.
(Truly appreciate all the projector information you provide by the way.)

You don't actually have to kick him out. Just put a hole in his wall. Cover hole with glass and mount the projector on a shelf in his room.
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post #3295 of 4181
Quote:
Originally Posted by AV Science Sales 5 View Post

When using a mirror to bounce the image, you do not angle the projector. The projector is mounted level and the mirror is mounted vertical below or above the projector. Then the image is angled, using the lens shift so that it hits the mirror square, bounces off and then hits the screen.
You don't actually have to kick him out. Just put a hole in his wall. Cover hole with glass and mount the projector on a shelf in his room.

Thanks for the advice. Unfortunately my screen is about 13 inches from the ceiling, which leaves very little room to lens shift the projector out of the light path.

I like your idea of mounting the projector in the kid's bedroom though.....hmmmm.
post #3296 of 4181
Guys, I finally got around to adding a Lumagen to my RS45 setup. I have always recommended these based on their ability to auto-calibrate when paired with a meter and software. Now after briefly playing with the Lumagen I am pleasantly surprised at how it has improved my image. Especially noticeable with DVD and HDTV. I have always preferred watching SDTV and HDTV on my Marantz DLP, but now the RS45 and Lumagen matches it. But I guess that makes sense because the Marantz and the Lumagen both use Gennum VXP chips.
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post #3297 of 4181
Quote:
Originally Posted by DavidK442 View Post

Thanks for the advice. Unfortunately my screen is about 13 inches from the ceiling, which leaves very little room to lens shift the projector out of the light path.

I like your idea of mounting the projector in the kid's bedroom though.....hmmmm.

I would be willing to bet that you have the room to bounce the image off of a mirror. If the image drops 3" by the time it gets to the mirror, it will clear the projector if inverted mount and it takes even less if shelf mounted.
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post #3298 of 4181
Watching the "Game of Thrones" series tonight, the candle light in the castles and lighting in general allows the RS45 to strut its stuff! Anyone that hasn't seen this series on it, is missing out on some serious eye candy! Material like this is what sets the JVCs apart from any projector I've experienced in the past.

Instead of another projector in the fall, I may just add the Lumagen and be content for a few years.
post #3299 of 4181
Quote:
Originally Posted by Joesyah View Post

Watching the "Game of Thrones" series tonight... Anyone that hasn't seen this series on it, is missing out on some serious eye candy!

I've seen it. I know the "eye candy" you are talking about.
post #3300 of 4181
OK. Dumb question. The Lumagen... Which model, and how does it really help? CMS type control? I read through their one page about their video processors, but didn't know what was being used/experienced by others here.

Also, if the mini goes for about $1500 is super sale mode (not official pricing since I just was reading that in an old thread), wouldn't it be better to have purchased a nicer projector?

Thanks.
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