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Official JVC X30 / RS45 owner's thread! - Page 117

post #3481 of 4435
As fight4you said, what you are experiencing should be pretty normal.

I have a 2.35 screen and use the zoom method. I have about 300 hours on my lamp and typically use a custom user preset with the aperture set to around -7 with 16:9 material. When I switch to 2.35 material, depending on the material, I sometimes switch to another user preset that opens the aperture to around -3. This helps to make up for the loss in brightness with the larger area being covered (equivalent to a 127" 16:9 image @ 110" wide). I increase the light output only with the aperture. I never adjust the brightness setting. It stays at -7 as set using calibration discs with HDMI mode set to Enhanced.
post #3482 of 4435
Anyone care to venture how the RS45 would perform in a bat cave 18 feet from a 166" diagonal 2.35:1 screen with 1.3 gain? I currently have an HD250 shooting from 15 feet away to a 1.1 gain 135" screen and it is great. I realize that I would have to drop the diagonal to probably as small as the projector/distance would allow to get enough light when I switch to 3D.
post #3483 of 4435
RS45 is on the way, and I'm considering mounting options. I have a 7'-9" ceiling height, so around 7' floor-ceiling before projector. I should be able to get the position right to put the projector right over the back row of seating to avoid head-strike issue for tall guys like me, but I'd still like to get the projector up close to the ceiling, if possible.

It seems like all the adjustable mounts drop the projector down at least 3-4 inches, if not more, so I think I'd like to flush-mount (or as close as possible, anyway)...

Did some googling, and found this pic in an AVForums thread...

http://www.avforums.com/forums/proje...l#post16009771



I know you lose some adjustability, but my ceiling is level, screen is plumb, etc... Worst I'd have to shim a corner or or two a toothpick's worth or something.

It sounds like the plate can be used from the Chief mount, so that's an option... This just looks really slick.

Anybody ever seen the mount in the pic or know where it's from?

Thanks!

SC
post #3484 of 4435
That flush mount is cool but zero adjust-ability could pose several issues unless everything was measured out perfectly. I would also be concerned with how the projector is held in place, seems it would slide into place but then what is keeping it from sliding back out of place (something behind it that locks it in perhaps?). One other consideration would be more heat trapped right at the ceiling, maybe a ceiling vent right above the exhaust vent of the projector would be beneficial (especially considering the lamp life/cost on the JVC's).

Jason
post #3485 of 4435
Quote:
Originally Posted by chasiliff View Post

Anyone care to venture how the RS45 would perform in a bat cave 18 feet from a 166" diagonal 2.35:1 screen with 1.3 gain? I currently have an HD250 shooting from 15 feet away to a 1.1 gain 135" screen and it is great. I realize that I would have to drop the diagonal to probably as small as the projector/distance would allow to get enough light when I switch to 3D.

If the screen has a actual gain (not just what the manufacturer claims) of 1.3 then you will get about 12 foot lamberts (FL) off of the screen, when zoomed for 2.35 aspect ratio, using a RS45 (using an accurately calibrated setting on the projector) and with a fairly new lamp. 12 FL is the minimum brightness recommended for a totally light controlled home theater. Since the light reaching your eyes will only be about 20% as high for 3D viewing this means in effect a dim 2.4 FL for 3D viewing in 2.35 mode. When setting the zoom for the smaller 16 x 9 image the 2D brightness will go up to fairly bright approx. 18 or 19 FL in 2D mode and in effect near 4 FL in 3D mode. If you really want to use this large a screen and have an interest in 3D, then consider a DaLite screen using their "High Power" fabric (gain 2.4), but you will get this high gain only if you mount the projector within perhaps 20 inches of eye-level (when seated). As an alternative to using the zoom to reduce the image size even smaller for 3D viewing (to increase image brightness) you may want to considered the Epson 5010 or BenQ W7000 projectors as they offer higher lumens of output that can better accommodate a larger screen, especially for 3D viewing, as well as offer less 3D crosstalk/ghosting. However the Epson and BenQ will not have the industry leading contrast ratio and black levels of the JVC (but subjectively the Epson 5010 does handle dark scenes very well thanks to its auto iris).
post #3486 of 4435
Hi guys, anyone have a similar problem?

I tried to watch a movie yesterday and i had no image from any of my sources. I thought that was a cable problem or my splitter.
Then i conected my ps3, ipad, bd player etc directly at both hdmi out at JVC. And i still didnt get any signal.
What shoul i do?
I do have my blue screen image, and i can go in at menu panel.
Im starting to worry about this.
Any ideas or clues?
post #3487 of 4435
Quote:
Originally Posted by ecrabb View Post

Anybody ever seen the mount in the pic or know where it's from?

It's the Habitech Techniq TEC-HTPMJVC0002


In this PDF-file you can see it's holding in place by two 12mm screws horizontally. I'm not concerned that there will be a heat issue if you give it some space to the wall and have some fresh air getting in your room, an air conditioning would be best.

Audipack makes quality custom ceiling mounts too. They are very expensive (300 euro) and you need a ceiling tube too (UTB 10cm, 100 euro), but at least you have some ability to adjust like with the Chief mounts.
.
post #3488 of 4435
Ron, thanks for the reply. I don't want to drag this thread down with specific screen discussion, but I was looking at the Carada BW screen. I can drop the projector to near viewer height for a 2.4 gain screen but I am worried about the drop off in brightness for viewers beyond the center group which, in my room, can be up to 15 degrees off from center. Using the 1.3 gain Carada would give me image uniformity across all viewer positions, be cheaper than a high gain screen and would just have enough brightness with the RS45 for the 2.35 format images. (Of course, the 1.3 gain listed by Carada, I believe, is closer to 1.2 in real world application.) I am in love with the deep blacks from the JVCs. If my potential setup is too compromised, I certainly will have to entertain other options.
post #3489 of 4435
Quote:
Originally Posted by NL-MindfluX View Post

It's the Habitech Techniq TEC-HTPMJVC0002

Thanks!!!

Doesn't look look like that mount is sold in the states, and may even be a bit hard to find in the UK. I couldn't see any way to buy it from the Habitech site. I like how it just uses the feet, with the lock-screw to hold it in place. Pretty slick, IMHO.

Soooo... Looks like I'm back to the Chief mount. Three questions if somebody has a second. Sorry for the all mount questions; hopefully, it will save somebody else the trouble.

1) Gut check: I need the RPA-281 (mount) and the SLB-281/SLM-281 (interface bracket)... Looks like about $150+$100 ballpark. Correct? I'm not clear because while some vendors seem to follow that model, I've found a couple of other vendors who seem to include both pieces for the above-mentioned price of only the RPA-281. Hmm...

2) What the hell is the difference between the SLB-281 and SLM-281? The only difference I can see is in the installation instructions, it looks like the SLB-281 uses thumbscrews, while the SLM-281 has a fabricated standoff of some kind - two different ways to engage the plate on the mount?

3) Anybody who has this combo know what the final drop is if the RPA-281 is mounted directly to the ceiling (no drop tube)? It looks like 2.5" total (1.75" for RPA-281 + .75" for SLB). I can do 2.5" of drop. I just don't want 6" or whatever.

Thanks again, guys!

SC



Reference materials:
http://downloads.chiefmfg.com/MANUALS-I/RPA-I.pdf
http://downloads.chiefmfg.com/MANUALS-I/SLBSLM281-I.pdf
post #3490 of 4435
FYI:

Just how sharp is the JVC?

I finally got around to trying the game X3: Terran Conflict on this projector (why is this significant, will explain)...

Sometimes we have to go beyond pure engineering techniques or a single "by eye" test to measure sharpness (MTF), here is why and here is the proof, it's a lot about focus precision and image optics translation in how it works with the sharpening filter in real world viewing. Anyhow, this game has ridiculously SMALL locked fonts, which basically cannot be changed. I may have tried the test once before on this projector (don't recall).

So, I've tried this game now on 5+ projectors for testing "real world" sharpness:
Mits hc4000 DLP, Epson 5010, Epson 8700ub, Viewsonic Pro8200, Sanyo z4000, and on and on...

They all failed the FONT legibility test except the JVC, and I am completely serious. The JVC passed the CRAZY small font test, and it passed it well! If anyone doubts, I welcome someone else to replicate the test (if they can get a JVC with really good convergence).

Every single projector I listed above FAILED in the sense that the menu text on the left was close to illegible or at least obnoxiously barely readable (and the Mits hc4000 came the closest, but it was not NEARLY as clear as the JVC). Yes, the text in this game is sharper on the JVC than it was on the Mits hc4000 DLP, due to the way the sharpening+detail enhance is working with my near-perfect convergence and then combining with focus uniformity. It would be interesting to see if the Benq w7000 can pass the test (probably). To me this is proof that you can have a projector with NO CONVERGENCE ERROR and NO CA (like a Mits hc4000 DLP) still look blurrier on some text simply due to a very minor focus error.
post #3491 of 4435
Quote:
Originally Posted by chasiliff View Post

Ron, thanks for the reply. I don't want to drag this thread down with specific screen discussion, but I was looking at the Carada BW screen. I can drop the projector to near viewer height for a 2.4 gain screen but I am worried about the drop off in brightness for viewers beyond the center group which, in my room, can be up to 15 degrees off from center. Using the 1.3 gain Carada would give me image uniformity across all viewer positions, be cheaper than a high gain screen and would just have enough brightness with the RS45 for the 2.35 format images. (Of course, the 1.3 gain listed by Carada, I believe, is closer to 1.2 in real world application.) I am in love with the deep blacks from the JVCs. If my potential setup is too compromised, I certainly will have to entertain other options.

Any further screen discussion should be moved over to the screen section of the forum. A HP 2.4 gain will drop to near that of the Carada BW when viewed at 15 deg. off axis (assuming the projector is mounted just a little above eye level) and will be much higher gain from the central viewing positions.
post #3492 of 4435
Sorry to ramble, but after playing X3: Tc on the JVC, I am quite impresed, it looks great. This game needs BETTER black levels than even the darkest of movies requires, because this game is 100% pure dark space the entire game. It's kind of funny trying to play this game on my DLP after using the JVC, the black level is so obscenely distracting on the DLP.

Much of the game is even darker than below...

post #3493 of 4435
Quote:
Originally Posted by coderguy View Post

Sorry to ramble, but after playing X3: Tc on the JVC, I am quite impresed, it looks great. This game needs BETTER black levels than even the darkest of movies requires, because this game is 100% pure dark space the entire game. It's kind of funny trying to play this game on my DLP after using the JVC, the black level is so obscenely distracting on the DLP.

Much of the game is even darker than below...


I was watching episode 9 season 2 "Game of Thrones" last night. The entire episode is shot at night. It looks fantastic on the JVC! If you want to know how good or bad your contrast/black levels are on a projector, play this episode. You'll either be quite happy or very disappointed.
post #3494 of 4435
Quote:
Originally Posted by coderguy View Post

Sorry to ramble, but after playing X3: Tc on the JVC, I am quite impresed, it looks great. This game needs BETTER black levels than even the darkest of movies requires, because this game is 100% pure dark space the entire game. It's kind of funny trying to play this game on my DLP after using the JVC, the black level is so obscenely distracting on the DLP.

Its great to see that not only does the JVC have excellent black levels, but it is very sharp and has wonderful clarity as you have said coderguy. If all goes well, I'll be getting JVC's next line of projectors (either their low end or mid level) and am hoping for even more improvements, especially in the 3D department. The one thing I am a little concerned about is the lamps and I hope that JVC will fix that problem with their upcoming projectors. Its just not right to have a problem like that when one pays a couple of grand for a projector.
post #3495 of 4435
[QUOTEAudipack makes quality custom ceiling mounts too. They are very expensive (300 euro) and you need a ceiling tube too (UTB 10cm, 100 euro), but at least you have some ability to adjust like with the Chief mounts.
QUOTE]

300 Euro for a piece of metal that isn't at least semi-precious seems like a lot.

I have 8' ceilings in my house and agree most commercial mounts are too low. With my last PJ I simply bolted a piece of painted 1"x12" board to the ceiling and throughbolted the PJ to it. This yielded an attractive and inexpensive flush ceiling mount. However, PJ installation required two people with one in the attic.

I will install a RS-45 this week. To ease installation and avoid need to go into the attic except for cabling, I intend to use pieces of 2"x2" painted aluminum angle cut 13" to 16" long. One 13" angle each side will be bolted from the front to back PJ mounts using M5 bolts. One 16" angle each side will be bolted to the ceiling joists at the correct spacing and alignment to mate to the angles installed on the PJ and project squarely to the screen. By oversizing or slotting the holes and adding washers I can provide more then enough horizontal adjustibility to account for installation error. The vertical sides of each angle will be pre-drilled front and back so that I can quickly install the PJ by bolting the PJ mounted angles to the ceiling mounted angles. The angles can also be slotted for vertical adjustment if desired. I can provide a picture of this or my earlier installation if desired.
post #3496 of 4435
Quote:
Originally Posted by James Bernard View Post

300 Euro for a piece of metal that isn't at least semi-precious seems like a lot.

Agreed. I even feel that way about the Chief mounts which are actually fairly reasonable, I think.

Your idea for a flush mount is similar to the DIY mount I've been thinking about. You were talking about extruded angle, and I had in mind extruded channel.

With channel, you could mount the channel one direction on the ceiling, and opposite direction on the projector, and be able to slide the projector into place. I'm still thinking about the adjustability, as well as how to lock it into place. The angle would have an advantage on both counts, I think. I was probably over-thinking with the channel. I've got a few days before the weekend to think about it. That, or I'll break down and order the Chief mount.

SC
post #3497 of 4435
Quote:
Originally Posted by SED <--- Rules View Post

Its great to see that not only does the JVC have excellent black levels, but it is very sharp and has wonderful clarity as you have said coderguy.

I am also annoyed at the lamp issue mainly after my PJ warranty expires. I wouldn't mind selling it to get next year's model, but selling things online makes me nervous. That said, if my bulb doesn't explode, my setup allows me EXTREME flexibility in brightness with the HP screen. I can actually lose about 70% brightness on the lamp before it starts driving me crazy. That is the spoils of the HP screen.

That game (X3:TC) is the best test I've found so far for Native On/Off. The game itself is kind of fun (but VERY tedious and can get boring). If you play it on the JVC then go to a PJ with lesser contrast, it is not enjoyable and it ruins the experience. Certain games are actually better tests than FILM because of the extremes in the lighting.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Joesyah View Post

I was watching episode 9 season 2 "Game of Thrones" last night. The entire episode is shot at night. It looks fantastic on the JVC! If you want to know how good or bad your contrast/black levels are on a projector, play this episode. You'll either be quite happy or very disappointed.

Yah, gotta love the braveheart-style battlecry speech by the midget (I would say Dwarf or Little Person -- as that is more politically correct, but given we are talking medieval, not sure how we reconcile that one). Game of thrones is pretty entertaining, definitely one of the best series on TV right now. Almost makes me want to visit ICELAND (almost but not quite).
post #3498 of 4435
I just spoke to tech support at JVC and was told that the blub issue has been resolved and that they have a new one available I would call them if you are concerned and let them know.
They are standing behind their product.
post #3499 of 4435
Quote:
Originally Posted by rwestley View Post

I just spoke to tech support at JVC and was told that the blub issue has been resolved and that they have a new one available I would call them if you are concerned and let them know.
They are standing behind their product.

I think they said that last year
post #3500 of 4435
This new forum design, well I have mixed feelings so far.
It sort of feels like an old girlfriend just came out of plastic surgery, and something isn't quite right smile.gif

Maybe we just need to get used to it.
post #3501 of 4435
Quote:
Originally Posted by coderguy View Post

This new forum design, well I have mixed feelings so far.
It sort of feels like an old girlfriend just came out of plastic surgery, and something isn't quite right smile.gif
Maybe we just need to get used to it.

It is certainly weird. Have you switched to the "Black Background"?

I feel a lot better with the black background, the rest of the stuff isn't too bad...I'm not a fan of the defauly avatar
post #3502 of 4435
Wow. Who did you speak to at JVC (what phone number)? I called on Monday and got nowhere. They wanted me to contact my dealer about sending the projector in, and since the unit is 6 months old, the rep said a replacement bulb would be about $500.
post #3503 of 4435
Hi Gang,

I am also looking at getting the 45 and here is my setup:

Room is light controlled but very short throw...only 12 ft from wall to wall.
What kind of brightness can I expect to get and will I even need an HP screen or will normal 1.1 or 1.3 gain do fine?

Thanks!
post #3504 of 4435
BTW, given a 12' room, you are only going to be able to do about a 100" screen because the projector is 18" long, but it sucks in the air from the back vent which means you need to leave another 6" distance (I believe the manual says leave 1 foot, but 6" should be plenty). That means in a 12 foot long room, your actual lens distance to screen is only 10 feet. That is just enough room to put in a 100" 16:9 screen, but it is cutting it so close that you will need to buy the screen AFTER you test the projector and verify the measurements in case of a slight MFR variance in the throw range.

As far as the HP screen goes, it just depends on your room design and if you care about the viewing angle limitations, as well as if you are shelf mounting or ceiling mounting. With the HP screen, you can mount the projector higher up and reduce gain, then move the projector lower later (if shelf mounting). If ceiling mounting and you have light colored ceilings, don't get the HP screen, it will bounce too much light off the ceiling.

Pending those issues, I would probably still go with the HP screen if shelf mounting, because of the LAMP issues, but it will be a tad too bright the first 300 to 500 hours even at aperture -15 setting. So the issue is too bright at first, but to me anyhow, too bright at first and just right later is what I prefer. Otherwise just buy an ND filter if after you setup the projector you determine it is just way too bright. For 3d, it will be brighter than most peoples' setups and this is what you want.
Edited by coderguy - 6/6/12 at 9:36am
post #3505 of 4435
Today I've talked to Philips. The Head Quarters UHP factory is about 20 miles from my home.

Very friendly and professional too. I've asked if they had any compatible HSCR220V2H bulbs, but unfortunatly they don't have.

But the conversation ended very interestingly. He's going to discuss with his colleagues if they are willing to create a small batch of bare bulbs that will be compatible with the JVC X/RS-series of the last two generations.
Edited by NL-MindfluX - 6/6/12 at 12:03pm
post #3506 of 4435
Quote:
Originally Posted by bcarithers View Post

Hi Gang,
I am also looking at getting the 45 and here is my setup:
Room is light controlled but very short throw...only 12 ft from wall to wall.
What kind of brightness can I expect to get and will I even need an HP screen or will normal 1.1 or 1.3 gain do fine?
Thanks!

You do not need a High Power. 1.1 gain would work well in your situation. Do need to check and confirm that the projector throw works for the size screen you plan. With your size room, a 100" diagonal is about as large as you can go. I have used a 0.85 gain 106" with an RS45 and I was using the projector on normal lamp (low) with the iris closed down 3/4's of the way (200 hours on lamp). A 1.1 gain screen is 30% brighter and you are also talking about a smaller screen, which will give you even more added brightness.
Edited by AV Science Sales 5 - 6/6/12 at 11:57am
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post #3507 of 4435
If I didn't have a high power (or at least some gain), and my screen size is only 106", I'd have been starting to watch VERY dark 3D. Just saying... Now I don't realize the full gain though, I am getting 1.5 to 1.7 gain from it. I would not buy a screen for the JVC without a huge amount of gain unless I knew the lamp was addressed or that I would never watch 3D. If you just absolutely cannot take too bright of an image at first, then I can understand people not wanting gain, but then I'd just use an ND filter at first until the lamp wears in, or adjust the calibration to drop the lumens. With the HP screen, you can also just sit off-axis (sit farther away from the middle seat) until the lamp wears in and you get a dimmer image that way.

The JVC has the aperture that clamps so far down, if you are at anything higher than -15 aperture at 200 hours, then it means you are already losing your Native On/Off before the lamp even has that many hours on it.

This of course does not apply if you don't care about maximizing lamp life, maximizing Native On/off, or care about 3D. I think most would rather live through too bright of an image the first 200 hours, and have more flexibility the next 500-1000 for 3D or Aperture Position.
Edited by coderguy - 6/6/12 at 5:22pm
post #3508 of 4435
Quote:
Originally Posted by johng View Post

Wow. Who did you speak to at JVC (what phone number)? I called on Monday and got nowhere. They wanted me to contact my dealer about sending the projector in, and since the unit is 6 months old, the rep said a replacement bulb would be about $500.

You have to call the field support phone number and extension.
post #3509 of 4435
If anyone is in need of a low priced HDMI matrix switch that works well with the RS-45, I think I found a good one that doesn't have issues.
http://www.amazon.com/KanaaN-Matrix-Output-Splitter-Switch/dp/B004MYUCF8/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1339025623&sr=8-3

Have only used it a few hours, but so far, so good. I tried to get it to confuse the JVC by hot-plugging live various configurations between 4 devices and even hot-plugging the JVC itself, all while changing outputs and modes, and all went without a glitch and no hitch.
post #3510 of 4435
Hi guys!

Sorry for newb-like question, but how much higher from the top of the screen surface can you mount the RS45 without causing issues?

My ceiling is 21" higher than the top of the screen surface. It's a 96x54" screen, 17'9" throw distance.

I was going to drop the projector about 6-8" from the ceiling and then let vertical lens shift and projector tilt/keystone cover the rest but without the projector on hand to try it's hard to know. The manual is not clear about this.

Thanks!

Kal
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