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Official JVC X30 / RS45 owner's thread! - Page 126

post #3751 of 4435
Can i use the CMS in the service meny to do a proper calibration?
I thought the DLA-X30 did not have CMS?
post #3752 of 4435
Quote:
Originally Posted by JonStatt View Post

The correct option which I believe is just called "lens center" is the one that should be used. If you see a warning come up like "reset lens data", then you have got it wrong!

I pressed "lens centre" as stated above and the text "reset data" popped up. Cancelled
I pressed "lens position reset" and the text "reset data" popped up. Cancelled

So is there anyone that is 100% sure which one it is to use to move lens shift to zero (not setting current position as zero)?
Edited by [Europe]Boogiem - 8/6/12 at 3:29pm
post #3753 of 4435
Quote:
Originally Posted by [Europe]Boogiem View Post

I believe i got a bulb issue, still within the 1000h warranty (currently 800h mostly in normal mode - not high)
The picture flickers (very rapid - not possible to catch on camera) when projector gets warm. Have cleaned filter.
Been searching the thread and found various stuff about cooling fins and stuff on some bulbs, but can someone summarize - is there an id nr or something i can check if I am gonna claim a new bulb?
The flicker comes and goes it seems like.
When watching very bright scenes for a long time it usualy comes.
Just saw a 2h movie and it disapeared (crank 2) during movie....hmmm i also opened a windows since it is warm inside....heat issue? About 24celsius here so not uber hot..
HAve tried different sources and HDMI cables but the same so it is a PJ or bulb issue.
Should i turn pj off? Can a blown bulb destroy the pj? (warranty?)

Try running the projector in high lamp mode for around 10 hours and see if that stops the flicker when you change back to normal lamp mode.
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post #3754 of 4435
Quote:
Originally Posted by BroncoSport View Post

I can't wait to get more informed about calibrating ...

Having the same display setup, ie, X30 and Duo, Chromapure auto calibration also works really well.
post #3755 of 4435
Quote:
Originally Posted by [Europe]Boogiem View Post

I pressed "lens centre" as stated above and the text "reset data" popped up. Cancelled
I pressed "lens position reset" and the text "reset data" popped up. Cancelled
So is there anyone that is 100% sure which one it is to use to move lens shift to zero (not setting current position as zero)?

Is there a reason, you need it set back to zero? Setting to zero does not help as far as setup goes.
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post #3756 of 4435
Dear All,
I have just sold my HD-1 which I have used since 2008. Is it a good choice to get the X30 ?
I am using OPPO 95 and throwing 80" screen. Light controlled room. Would like to watch both 2D and 3D materials.

Thanks for any comments.
post #3757 of 4435
Absolutely.
post #3758 of 4435
Quote:
Originally Posted by tune View Post

Dear All,
I have just sold my HD-1 which I have used since 2008. Is it a good choice to get the X30 ?
I am using OPPO 95 and throwing 80" screen. Light controlled room. Would like to watch both 2D and 3D materials.
Thanks for any comments.

The X30 is a great 2d projector, but very mediocre at 3d so it depends on how much 3d you plan to watch (and what type.......3d gaming is a joke on the X30 frown.gif ) and how important 3d is to you since there are much better options for that which also have good 2d. I own a 45 and love it by the way for 2d, but I am pretty much completely turned off with the 3d at this point due to ghosting and flicker.
post #3759 of 4435
Quote:
Originally Posted by Toe View Post

The X30 is a great 2d projector, but very mediocre at 3d so it depends on how much 3d you plan to watch (and what type.......3d gaming is a joke on the X30 frown.gif ) and how important 3d is to you since there are much better options for that which also have good 2d. I own a 45 and love it by the way for 2d, but I am pretty much completely turned off with the 3d at this point due to ghosting and flicker.

Thanks very much for the reply and comments. So sorry that I have serious Rainbow eyes and couldn't stand the single chip DLP projector. Will the Sony VW95 have better performance with higher price tag ?
post #3760 of 4435
I would probably choose the Epson 5010 if you are primarily wanting better 3D, and if you have room for it and money to waste, then possibly also grab you a B-stock JVC RS-40 (meaning buy 2 projectors).

Sony vw95 will be better than the RS-45 in some respects, black levels will be close but the RS-45 will get there without the IRIS, and the Rs-45 is a little bit brighter. Overall the VW95 is the better projector in some ways (motion, calibration, poorer sources), but at more than twice the price (especially if going for a B-stock JVC). Although the vw95 does have better 3d than the RS-45, it's still not ghost free and it's NOT that bright in 3D mode compared to an Epson 5010.

Have you tried DLP's known to have less RBE, or did you look at 3x and 4x color wheels, because I cannot live with those slower wheels either, but I can live with 5x and 6x color wheels. At a 6x color wheel and with the projector at the correct brightness, I see very little RBE even though I'm quite sensitive.

If worried about 3D and 2D, I'd go the two projector route before spending that much on the vw95, because the vw95 is also not the best 3D projector due to lower brightness and some ghosting. I like having two projectors better than one for various reasons. If I were most worried about 3D and had to just pick one model being very RBE sensitive, I'd probably go with the Epson 5010.
Edited by coderguy - 8/8/12 at 8:39pm
post #3761 of 4435
I have a 120" 235:1 screen with a 1.4 gain, what would be a good throw distance if I were ceiling mounting the projector?
using http://www.eliteprojectorcalculator.com/ it is giving a mounting distance of 19' with a 1.5x zoom.

I noticed someone mentioning 17'?

Any help would be greatly appreciated!

Mick
post #3762 of 4435
It doesn't make a huge difference to where you mount it, farther back gives slightly darker blacks (but with a JVC not that much), closer up gives a brighter image.

I would probably mount it either in the middle of the throw range or near closest throw. The only thing you gotta be aware of is ensuring you aren't using too much lens shift in combination with the wrong zoom settings, so that when you switch between 2.35 and 16:9 it could cause the lens memory to run out of room. I don't think you will be, but I am just saying keep that issue noted.
post #3763 of 4435
Quote:
Originally Posted by coderguy View Post

It doesn't make a huge difference to where you mount it, farther back gives slightly darker blacks (but with a JVC not that much), closer up gives a brighter image.
I would probably mount it either in the middle of the throw range or near closest throw. The only thing you gotta be aware of is ensuring you aren't using too much lens shift in combination with the wrong zoom settings, so that when you switch between 2.35 and 16:9 it could cause the lens memory to run out of room. I don't think you will be, but I am just saying keep that issue noted.

When you say closest throw you mean shortest throw as in shortest distance between projector and screen?

I haven't mounted mine yet but I have a 120" wide 16x9 screen and I planned on mounting it between 14' and 15'
post #3764 of 4435
Yes, I mean near shortest throw but not right at.
post #3765 of 4435
Quote:
Originally Posted by exlondoner View Post

I have a 120" 235:1 screen with a 1.4 gain, what would be a good throw distance if I were ceiling mounting the projector?
using http://www.eliteprojectorcalculator.com/ it is giving a mounting distance of 19' with a 1.5x zoom.
I noticed someone mentioning 17'?
Any help would be greatly appreciated!
Mick

I am guessing that you are talking about the Carada Brilliant White fabric. With the actual (measured) gain of that fabric I would short throw mount the projector, you could use the brightness to allow you to stay in low lamp mode longer.
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post #3766 of 4435
Hi Mike, so do you think a throw of around 17.5 would be good?
post #3767 of 4435
Quote:
Originally Posted by coderguy View Post

I would probably choose the Epson 5010 if you are primarily wanting better 3D, and if you have room for it and money to waste, then possibly also grab you a B-stock JVC RS-40 (meaning buy 2 projectors).
Sony vw95 will be better than the RS-45 in some respects, black levels will be close but the RS-45 will get there without the IRIS, and the Rs-45 is a little bit brighter. Overall the VW95 is the better projector in some ways (motion, calibration, poorer sources), but at more than twice the price (especially if going for a B-stock JVC). Although the vw95 does have better 3d than the RS-45, it's still not ghost free and it's NOT that bright in 3D mode compared to an Epson 5010.
Have you tried DLP's known to have less RBE, or did you look at 3x and 4x color wheels, because I cannot live with those slower wheels either, but I can live with 5x and 6x color wheels. At a 6x color wheel and with the projector at the correct brightness, I see very little RBE even though I'm quite sensitive.
If worried about 3D and 2D, I'd go the two projector route before spending that much on the vw95, because the vw95 is also not the best 3D projector due to lower brightness and some ghosting. I like having two projectors better than one for various reasons. If I were most worried about 3D and had to just pick one model being very RBE sensitive, I'd probably go with the Epson 5010.

Dear Coderguy,

Thanks so much for your comments/inputs. I have borrowed a Mitsubish 8700D DLP machine to try out. Haven't got time to set it up yet. Would like to see how bad is my RBE in home conditions of mine ? I am using OS Pure matt II plus 80" screen. Any recommendations for the settings on the 8700D ?
As a previous owner of JVC. I am very much delighted on its performance for 2D materials. Hope this trial out will help me to choose the right replacement to my HD-1.
post #3768 of 4435
Is the 8700d a foreign model?
The same as the Mitsubishi hc7800?

If yes, then check the Mits hc7800 thread, as I have no idea as I'm not that familiar with that projector.
post #3769 of 4435
Sorry. My mistake. It should be HC7800D.biggrin.gif
post #3770 of 4435
Quote:
Originally Posted by exlondoner View Post

Hi Mike, so do you think a throw of around 17.5 would be good?

!20" diagonal 2.35 or 120" wide 2.35?
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post #3771 of 4435
Quote:
Originally Posted by AV Science Sales 5 View Post

!20" diagonal 2.35 or 120" wide 2.35?

120" diagonal.
post #3772 of 4435
Quote:
Originally Posted by exlondoner View Post

120" diagonal.

17.5' throw works well with that size and gain screen.
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post #3773 of 4435
I've been loving my JVC RS45, but I have a question.

First the point: My picture is getting noticably dimmer, and dimmer. Yup. We have all probably been there.

Details: I have about 300 hours on the bulb. It is the original bulb that came with the JVC RS45 that I bought (pre-order) from AVS late last year.

Question 1: Is JVC doing anything for dimming bulbs or just blown ones?

Question 2: What is the criteria for getting a replacement?

Question 3: Is it a call to JVC tech support or somewhere else if they are replacing noticably dimming bulbs?

Any assistance would be great. I am hoping that they are going to help me out, but I know that I am well past the 90 days. Heck, I didn't even really fire the projector up until well past having it for 90 days due to theater room construction.

Thanks!

PS. Yes, I searched. 260 results in this thread, a lot more in other threads and maybe I missed it somewhere, but after an hour I decided to post this.
post #3774 of 4435
Quote:
Originally Posted by nickbuol View Post

I've been loving my JVC RS45, but I have a question.
First the point: My picture is getting noticably dimmer, and dimmer. Yup. We have all probably been there.
Details: I have about 300 hours on the bulb. It is the original bulb that came with the JVC RS45 that I bought (pre-order) from AVS late last year.
Question 1: Is JVC doing anything for dimming bulbs or just blown ones?
Question 2: What is the criteria for getting a replacement?
Question 3: Is it a call to JVC tech support or somewhere else if they are replacing noticably dimming bulbs?
Any assistance would be great. I am hoping that they are going to help me out, but I know that I am well past the 90 days. Heck, I didn't even really fire the projector up until well past having it for 90 days due to theater room construction.
Thanks!
PS. Yes, I searched. 260 results in this thread, a lot more in other threads and maybe I missed it somewhere, but after an hour I decided to post this.

Sent you a PM.
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post #3775 of 4435
Quote:
Originally Posted by nickbuol View Post

. . . . .
Question 1: Is JVC doing anything for dimming bulbs or just blown ones?
Question 2: What is the criteria for getting a replacement?
Question 3: Is it a call to JVC tech support or somewhere else if they are replacing noticably dimming bulbs?

I was wondering the same thing, although I did not buy it from AVS. After searching, I came across someone saying JVC may have raised the limit to 1000 hours?
post #3776 of 4435
Are there any photos of the 003 bulb? I just bought a new X3 and was wondering what version I might have.
post #3777 of 4435
has anything leaked out on the new jvc models?
post #3778 of 4435
Quote:
Originally Posted by kutlow View Post

has anything leaked out on the new jvc models?

Not much other than there will be a new model in the line up that fits between the successor to the X30 and X70 in the consumer line and between the RS45 and RS55 in the pro line. The new model is said to include eShift thus bringing that feature into a lower price range. Also the IR 3D glasses are being replaced with rf models. We probably won't know much else until the IFA show (German end of Aug.) and CEDIA (USA starting Aug. 6). The specifics and prices for USA should be announced at the JVC press event scheduled for Thurs. morning (Aug. 6th) at CEDIA. I hope to report the JVC news on my projectorreviews.com blog sometime later that morning.
Edited by Ron Jones - 8/18/12 at 7:17am
post #3779 of 4435
My dla-x30 is intermittantly freezing and locking up. So far it recovers when I pull the plug. Just before this occurs, there is some vertical jitter in the picture and thin white lines appear in the outline of the scene. Please HELP.mad.gif
post #3780 of 4435
Other than maybe an intermittent HDMI cabling or switching issue confusing the projector, it sounds like a bad component. I would try to hook a Bluray player or other device directly to the PJ and watch it for a while and see if you can repeat the error with nothing in the chain (no AVR, no HDMI switches, and using a new cable). Although this is just to eliminate this one possibility, because overall it sounds like you need to send the projector in for service.
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