Official Epson PowerLite Home Cinema 5010 / 6010 thread - Page 39

Correct, the Projector sends the signal to the glasses to make it all work, stay in sync, etc.

this method u can play on computer monitor too but your monitor is 3D capable. If you want to play the 3D iso on your 3D blu ray player than u need to burn them on a BD50 gig disc using the software call Image Burn.

I disagree with charlievoviii. A 3d mkv ripped from a 3d bluray can, in fact, be "real 3d". However, you've lost half of the horizontal resolution for SBS, or half of the vertical resolution for TNB.

You are loosing resolution because it's ZOOM in to make two seperate image for 3D. Go read my post again, which i have mentioned about it. We want full res, not zoom in to make two pictures for 3D. post number 1136

BTW what you are talking about is call Half SBS, which beat the point of getting a full 1080p 3D content, you can also convert a Full SBS which take up a lot more space than the actually ISO.

I know we're not allowed to talk about specific pricing, but I'm a bit confused by people saying the 6010 costs about $1k more than the 5010. My dealer is saying the 6010 is about $600 more. I don't know if I'm getting a really bad price for the 5010 or a really good price on the 6010 as all I can find on the Internet is MAP pricing for the 6010.

Please PM me what prices you've gotten on both. Thanks.
I'm down to either the 6010 or just getting a new bulb for my old pj.

This is my first real concern with this pj that I've read. Specifically Epson says "The 3D IR emitter is for use when the viewer is located more than 16.5 feet from the screen and 3D signal is poor." My back set of seats will be about 18 feet from the screen. If the signal is poor, I can't put this emitter up front due to the design of my room. Can it be placed on TOP of the ceiling mounted pj?

I believe since everyone is using the same price for the 5010
and the 6010 - I think it is called MAP and can be mentioned
here. The 5010 is $2699 and the $6010 is $3499. In My book
that is $800 different but the 6010 includes 2 pair of glasses,
a PJ Mount, a spare Bulb, free shipping and a 3 Year Warranty
and a better looking case and some minor features like THX
and Anamorphic stretch - Those are Epson Approved Prices.

I would not worry about that. It will probably work
but in my opinion, Monster Glasses are Better and
run off RF versus IR. That is what I use.

Are you sure it doesnt say 16.5 feet from the projector rather than he screen?

I sit 21 feet from my screen and my pj is right above my head. No issues here

I know what the MAP is, but I'm hoping to compare actual prices to see if I'm getting a good deal. Thanks.

DEALERS can NOT SELL BELOW MAP

Yes

That's my confusion. My pj is about 19' from the screen, then those in the rear are 18' from the screen, making the round trip about 37 ft. I realize it's IR and needs line of sight, but are the emitters on the edge of the pj so people sitting right below it well within the range? Does the emitter have to bounce off the screen?

My dealer said he can not advertise below map (minimum advertised price), but he can sell below when someone walks in.

Wrong

Anyone else have this happen?

Sometimes when I start up my 6010 the fan revs up and stays reved up for sometimes a full minute, then it calms down and a picture comes on. By reved up I mean twice as loud as dynamic mode, this time today it did it and got stuck, it reved for around 11/2 minutes and then I got a red light, I rebooted it and all is fine.......for now.

I read that the 6010's built in emitter was good up to 16.5 feet from the screen, which is incorrect as my friend has his projector 21' back and has no problems.

Yes, mine does this. Two shutdowns, several loud starts. Some long, some short. then half the time it starts up normal. Kind of scary.

This varies a lot depending on your screen/room and is in fact not line of sight. The ir bounces of walls/ceilings, even my flat black ones apparently. With my old system I could go the bathroom and not lose sync, even though the emitter was behind a couch from where I was. I am sure the 16.5 feet is a worst case scenerio. It is the last thing I would worry about.
Now, why in the world would you be 21 feet from your screen is another question.

Wed. my 5010 took about minute or more for a picture to come on. I was thinking is this thing ever going to come on? But no red lights and today it was normal starting time.

mark

His projector is 21 feet back from his 142" screen, he sits 14' back. He actually has a better picture than mine as our screens (Black Diamond 1.4 Gain) have hot spotting and his hot spotting is noticeably less than mine.

Thanks 42Plasmaman

Good luck. Mine did the exact same thing a few weeks ago. Started doing it all the time. Epson is now sending me another one. Mine for to the point it did it more often than not.

How well the IR signal is base on the your room really. Do you have a lot of stuffs in the way etc. I sit about 20feet away and if i lean the hometheater chair back it's about 22feet. It works fine no signal lost on all 4 of my 3D glasses. Two are actual Epson and the other two small one are Sony PS3 3D glasses.

Should I be using the iris in "normal" mode, or "high speed"? Have not noticed a difference between the two, but I'm assuming the high speed doesnt have as good of a contrast ratio as the normal speed.

I believe you would want to use high speed, contrast would be the same as normal and the shutter opens and closes faster so you are less apt to see it working.

The best choice of iris speed depends on the your video source material and on your personal preference. The most natural iris setting is Off but of course you then only get the LCD panel's native black-level which in the case of the Epson 5010 is pretty good. However, some viewers are annoyed with auto-iris in any speed and would rather live with the poorer black level.

Epson recommends Normal for most source material. Usually the dynamic iris' effects are less obvious compared to High Speed which Epson recommends for material that changes brightness levels quickly such as video games.

In the High Speed mode the Epson iris can change at frame-by-frame speeds. This mode results in better overall black-level than Normal. This is because the Normal mode slower speed averages the iris opening over multiple frames whereas High Speed doesn't. For example, if you had a mostly bright picture but there is a very brief dark scene, the black level on the dark scene will be better in High Speed than it would be if you were in Normal.

Personally, I don't find the black level difference between Normal and High Speed to be very noticeable on most video material. My opinion is that you should choose between Iris Off, Normal, or High Speed based on your tolerance to the dynamic iris' effects on the picture. If you have a high-tolerance to the auto-iris, set it in High Speed. If you have no tolerance, turn the iris Off, and if you are somewhere in between, put it in Normal. I prefer Normal most of the time.

I totally agreed with DNA. For me i always have it off and calibrate my projector correctly. I Use Cinema mode anyway since it's plenty bright for movies. Once awhile I do use Dynamic mode than i have the Irish on High speed. Pick whatever look best to you.

"Beauty is in the Eye of the beholder"

Since I installed my Epson 5010 just before Christmas, I've been playing with pixel alignment. Epson widely advertised "Motorized Pixel Alignment". This feature is listed in Epson's 5010/6010 brochure, in their on-line description, and on most vendor's 5010 descriptions as well.

• Amazingly sharp, crisp images — motorized pixel alignment

I've come to the conclusion that the Epson only uses "digital" convergence, not motorized pixel alignment. Digital convergence doesn't move the panels, it just interpolates and reassigns source pixels to different panel pixels to simulate the effect of moving the panel. This method isn't as good as motorized alignment that actually moves the panels would be. Digital convergence can align pixels to within 1/2 of a pixels of each other but it can also blur the picture as I demonstrated in my post here:

Click here for Pixel Alignment Post and Pictures

My testing was done on the "middle" pixel adjustments, not the initial 4 corner adjustments. However, in an insightful, well-reasoned post, wnielsenbb stated in part:


However, Mike disagreed saying:


I love this kind of technical debate. It is partly out of curiosity and partly a desire to get the best I can out of my 5010 that I want to resolve this question.

This morning I experiment some more with the initial 4 corner alignment. If it was motorized, I wouldn't expect to see any of the double lines you can see in the above post which I took in the middle of the screen. I would also expect to be able to move red and blue pixels outside of the green pixels on the outside lines. For example, if it was motorized, I'd expect to be able to move the red pixel to the left of the far left green line. I wouldn't expect to be able to do that if it was just digital pixel alignment. I'd also expect that if I was moving the entire panel that moving one corner would affect the entire screen. (Note: wnielsenbb discusses this issue in his post above. It wouldn't be possible to move all 4 corners if you move the panels unless you either squeezed or maybe tilted the panel --- neither of which sounds possible --- or used motorized on just one or two corners and interpolated the other corners.) I checked all three tests for all 4 corners.

Test 1 - Double Lines

Below, are two (not very great) pictures of the same upper left corner line. The first one shows what you'd expect to see. Both the green and red lines are a single column of pixels. The second one is 4 units different and shows two red lines. Note that as was the case in my first post, the two red lines are not as bright. That is because the Epson is interpolating between the two lines by making each of them half as bright. Clearly this is not motorized pixel alignment.

Attachment 239354 Attachment 239355

Test 2 - Moving Outside the Outside Edges

As stated above, if the Epson's panels moved. it should be possible to move the red and blue pixels outside the green border lines. I tried doing this for all 4 corners and couldn't. By itself this doesn't necessarily prove that there is no motorized panel motion but it seems highly unlikely.

Test 3 - Motion On One Corner Moves All Pixels

If the panel was moved, all pixels of that color should move. Again, I tested this on all 4 corners. The areas near the corner moves the most, there is a small amount of movement near the center of the picture, and none at all on the opposite side of the picture.

Conclusion

All three tests above indicate that my Epson 5010 exhibits no sign that there is motorized pixel alignment of the LCD panels on any of the 4 corners or any of the other grid alignments. All pixel alignment appears to be done using "digital" interpolation. It is possible that my projector is defective, or there is some other condition in which panel motion occurs, but I doubt it. If you can provide evidence to support "Motorized Pixel Alignment" I'd love to see it.

Implications

For many Epson 5010/6010 users, it probably doesn't matter that the Epson doesn't have motorized pixel alignment. The digital alignment it does have allows one to converge all colors within 1/2 of a pixel. That's better than most LCD and LCOS/SXRD projectors that don't have any type of pixel alignment. However, it does mean that the user needs to be careful to avoid double lines as I've shown in my pictures. These double lines blur the picture. I wish Epson had only permitted moving in whole pixel increments. I see no advantage to their interpolation method.

Side Note

I'm not sure any projector has motorized pixel alignment or any other method that actually moves the panels. In this 2010 Sony SXRD projector review Art Feierman states that both Sony and JVC use digital pixel alignment. As someone said to me in private correspondence, a fraction of a pixel would be a very tiny movement considering that there are "2,000,000 of them on a .74” chip".