Official Epson PowerLite Home Cinema 5010 / 6010 thread - Page 44

Well I have a 120" and a 1.1 gain and I am SUPER BRIGHT...then again the bulb is new.

So yeah, get a demo....you should be good to go!

Is the Peerless PRG-UNV a good mount for the 5010 and is $139 a good price on it from NewEgg?
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16882733127

Any recommendations of other ceiling mounting systems for the 5010 is welcome!

We close on the new house on the 30th. Bullitt Theater opening soon...

Have it. Love it. Can't say much about the price, but I think it can be had for a bit less than that.

Agree with KevinG.

First, that Newegg reviewer doesn't know what he talking about.

Second, shop around, it's cheaper on Amazon and maybe elsewhere. I own the PRG-UNV mount and think it's a great mount. Highly adjustable, the gears that operate the tilt and roll are a real plus. It is a two piece unit, the ceiling and the projector mounts. When I installed the mount to the projector (AR100U) I made sure to keep it level in relation to the projector which was easy using the highly adjustable feet and legs. Once I mated the projector mount to the ceiling mount I also made sure to keep the projector itself level and square to the screen, then I used the projector lens shift to place the picture on the screen. For the final fine-tuning I used the geared knobs for spot-on placement. There are cheaper mounts but why skimp at this point.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FS9953FhEU4

Something also in the "Best" category is the Chief RPA-168
It's a "dedicated" mount...not a "Universal", with the projector Interface Plate made specifically for the Mounting Holes on the Epson PJ, starting through the 8000-9000 series up to the 30-50-6010 Series.

It's also $139.00, and the best place to score one is through Projector People , ask for Kirk @ ext 2002. He'll know exactly wat you need

(need a Ceiling Plate? Ask him about the inexpensive Peerless ACC-570 )
http://www.amazon.com/Peerless-Indus.../dp/B000BITSTA

One of the outstanding features of the RPA-168 / ACC-570 combo is the ability to easily pass Video / 110 cords hidden within the 1.5" diameter Drop Tube, whose length is easily determined by you, the end user.

Mine is about that high and probably two feet to the side. Works fine.

I had a chief for my prior projector. I like the peerless better. The geared adjustments are *so* much easier than the chief.

The peerless also allows you to easily pass cables through the drop tube, and has a very nice gap at the bottom for getting them to the back of the projector. And, like the chief, it uses standard 1.5" pipe...so, I just went to home depot, and bought a 4", 6", 8", 10" and 12" piece. Figured out which one worked best, returned all the others, and bought a can a flat black spray paint for the one I kept. Absolutely perfect...for < $10 total.

Not the best picture of the mount, but the only one I have available at the moment...



-Kevin

Well, for one thing the 5010 isn't a budget projector, and the Da Lite IS a budget screen. It is a great screen to be sure, but a high mounted projector is very desirable and the high power isn't meant for that. A good screen is something you will have through many projectors. My awesome high gain Vutec Silverstar has gone through 4 projectors. The brightness in 2D is high for pc desktop use so I had to adjust a setting for that, but it is amazing for 3D. If the 5010's fan wasn't so loud in 3D dynamic mode I would recommend a 1.3 gain screen for this projector. With the high gain screen you can use 3D Cinema mode and it looks amazing. I think most people would appreciate the bright 2D mode too and wouldn't need to adjust it.

The HP screen is not really a budget screen. Many use them with projectors that are more than the 5010. There are owners of the 4K Sony 1000, Sony 95, and JVC RS55 owners, which is twice the amount the 5010. I much prefer it over the Silverstar. It has similar brightness and no sparkles. A screen that cost over $1000 is not really considered a budget screen.

I said it was a great screen, but retro-reflective isn't for everyone. You can get them cheap, but yeah, a fixed frame isn't cheap. I stand corrected. Sorry. I know I was looking at them when I was looking for an inexpensive screen.

OH MY - Epson Changed their WEB SITE
Guess we all now know the answer.

Amazingly sharp, crisp images — digital pixel alignment

http://www.epson.com/cgi-bin/Store/j...seBVCookie=yes

Thanks, that makes me feel better about the spot I'll use. I thought I read where some had trouble with moderate amounts of shift, but sounds like it is working for you.

Yep...but for sure we at least understand what we are dealing with.

Thanks for the feedback on the Peerless and Chief mounts guys. That's great information.

Hi all,

I have noticed that in EU we have 2 very similar models for the 9000W which is 6010 in the US. Any idea what the difference might be ?

EPSON EH-TW9000W LP (V11H427040LP) or EPSON EH-TW9000W LW (V11H427040LW)

Thanks

Georgios

well my screen will be 133" 16x9 and the projector is 1' below the top of the screen and about 3' above head....is this still good?

Does anyone know how to check the firmware of the 5010/6010 ?

Would fan noise on the 6010 be quieter than the 5010? I found a local dealer that has the 6010 on display but if it's going to be quieter, it doesn't make sense for me to try to get out there to see it.

IDENTICAL units

Is there a poblem with the "digital pixel alignment" that I don't know about? Everytime I try to adjust my unit with it, it becomes a blurry mess.

Well that is a great question.

Some of us have great results, some don't. I am still trying to figure out the magic. There seems to be some agreement that only adjusting the 4 corners is the best way to go, but others do more.

Honestly, I am still trying to work with Epson on this to get a solid recommendation.

The problem with mine is that the projector has a much shaper picture without it being activated, having said that, I would love to squeeze as much sharpness out of the unit as I can, but in my case the feature is unusable, no matter what I do with it the results are unacceptable.

Do you have a picture you could post, just so we can understand what you are seeing ?

Are folks getting good deals when purchasing the 6010 or 5010? Please PM with any recommendations for an internet dealer.

You have to adjust in increments of 8, or pixels will be split.
Only adjust the 4 corners, and adjust them to the exact same values, or somewhere inbetween pixels will be split again.

If you don't have convergence problems don't mess with it though.

As I explained in this post followed later by this post, using digital pixel alignment usually causes what wnielsenbb calls "pixel splitting". The first post has before and after pixtures of this effect. Pixel splitting results in lowering resolution by up to 75%. (Note: wnielsenbb disagrees with this figure but I'm convinced it is accurate.) As wnielsenbb states above, either don't use digital pixel adjustment or do what he suggests with the 4 corners. There is no way to use the inside alignment (the alignment that you do after you set the 4 corners) without causing pixel splitting. Except for moving all pixels for the red or blue panel equally in whole pixel increments, any improvement in convergence comes at the cost of lowering resolution.

Or we should all return them if the alignment isn't right.

Hehe...as a relative newbie to this hobby I have a question.

Is it safe to say that ALL or MANY 3 Panel LCD's have alignment issues. So the question is how much is generally tolerated ?

Then with this NEW TOOL - how much better can we get ?

My big issue is that Epson first said motorized, then they changed it to digital...and we still have no official methods of what exactly is going on...just good guesses on everybody's part.

No, it is clearly digital. Go mess with it. Get a magnifying glass to be sure. You can see the line shifting across pixels.

My old Panny 2000 alignment was perfect. My 5010 red was way off.