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Official Epson PowerLite Home Cinema 5010 / 6010 thread - Page 45

post #1321 of 3332
Quote:
Originally Posted by blipszyc View Post

Are folks getting good deals when purchasing the 6010 or 5010? Please PM with any recommendations for an internet dealer.

The 6010 is local dealer only - no internet sales.
post #1322 of 3332
What do you guys have your Frame Interpolation setting on for movies ? Low, Med, or High ?
post #1323 of 3332
Quote:
Originally Posted by charlievoviii View Post

What do you guys have your Frame Interpolation setting on for movies ? Low, Med, or High ?

Off. I don't like it at any setting for 24 fps movies. It also screws up horribly (very jerky) when displaying PBS video from Europe. Maybe it is a 50 Hz -> 60 Hz conversion issue.
post #1324 of 3332
Quote:
Originally Posted by charlievoviii View Post

What do you guys have your Frame Interpolation setting on for movies ? Low, Med, or High ?

Same for me, nothing for movies.
post #1325 of 3332
Quote:
Originally Posted by toofast68 View Post

Same for me, nothing for movies.

Same here -- OFF
post #1326 of 3332
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by toofast68 View Post

Same for me, nothing for movies.

Ditto. No Soap Opera effect for me regardless how mild it may look on low.
post #1327 of 3332
I have it off too. Funny we don't try it, we may like it.
post #1328 of 3332
Quote:
Originally Posted by wnielsenbb View Post

I have it off too. Funny we don't try it, we may like it.

This is my first device with frame interpolation. I read about people who didn't like frame interpolation and figured they were nuts. How could motion smoothing not be a good thing? Why would anyone want to watch something that wasn't smooth just because that's the way real movies have always been?

I tried it for a couple weeks just to see if I'd get use to it. I didn't. Epson's motion smoothness works fine. It does what it is supposed to do. But it just isn't a movie if it is on. I didn't expect I'd react to it as strongly as I do.
post #1329 of 3332
I am getting a new 3D projector tomorrow... I am going to a have 25ft 1.4 HDMI cable going from the projector to the Receiver. Do i need a 1.4 cable going from the receiver to the PS3 ? I have read that you need 1.4 to run 3D...Is that even true ? Will i be alright running a 1.3 HDMI from the receiver to the PS3 ? thanks
post #1330 of 3332
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lt.Aldo.Raine View Post

I am getting a new 3D projector tomorrow... I am going to a have 25ft 1.4 HDMI cable going from the projector to the Receiver. Do i need a 1.4 cable going from the receiver to the PS3 ? I have read that you need 1.4 to run 3D...Is that even true ? Will i be alright running a 1.3 HDMI from the receiver to the PS3 ? thanks

Well it really depends....you might be ok, or you might need the 1.4 cable...I've seen results all over the board.
post #1331 of 3332
Quote:
Originally Posted by toofast68 View Post

Well it really depends....you might be ok, or you might need the 1.4 cable...I've seen results all over the board.

Agreed, depends on cable quality. I have a 50 ft hdmi cable circa 2006 and it works fine with 3d on the 6010.
post #1332 of 3332
So, I'm really on the fence as to whether I should replace my reliable Epson 1080UB with a new 6010. I'm at over 1200 hours on the original lamp in my 1080UB, but the picture still looks fantastic. If the 6010 was a huge improvement over the 1080UB, I might be more enthusiastic. The 3D would be neat, but I would still primarily be watching regular blurays. Plus, the active shutter glasses are expensive for extra pairs. With my luck, they'll come out with passive 3D projectors in the next year. I think I would like the frame interpolation, but is that worth spending almost $4,000 for? All the reports in this thread have me worried about potentially having convergence or fan issues.

What do you guys think? Is the 6010 that much of an improvement over the 1080UB, and are the issues reported here really not that widespread?
post #1333 of 3332
Quote:
Originally Posted by seplant View Post

So, I'm really on the fence as to whether I should replace my reliable Epson 1080UB with a new 6010. I'm at over 1200 hours on the original lamp in my 1080UB, but the picture still looks fantastic. If the 6010 was a huge improvement over the 1080UB, I might be more enthusiastic. The 3D would be neat, but I would still primarily be watching regular blurays. Plus, the active shutter glasses are expensive for extra pairs. With my luck, they'll come out with passive 3D projectors in the next year. I think I would like the frame interpolation, but is that worth spending almost $4,000 for? All the reports in this thread have me worried about potentially having convergence or fan issues.

What do you guys think? Is the 6010 that much of an improvement over the 1080UB, and are the issues reported here really not that widespread?

I replaced my 1080UB with a 6010 just last month. Very pleased with the 6010. Noticeable improvement. 3D is great. I have no regrets.

The 1080UB was a great machine, but the 6010 is at a different level. In my opinion, it's worth it.

My next projector (3 years from now or so) will likely be a laser 4k 3D.
post #1334 of 3332
Any problem with using a Harmony on the 5010? I just realized my old 610 is maxed out, plus I'm tired of re-taping the back when it's battery time. Time for a new one.....what's good these days?
post #1335 of 3332
Quote:
Originally Posted by Motovet View Post

Any problem with using a Harmony on the 5010? I just realized my old 610 is maxed out, plus I'm tired of re-taping the back when it's battery time. Time for a new one.....what's good these days?

Nope, you should have no problems. I use mine...
post #1336 of 3332
thanks for the answered for the Frame interpolation.
post #1337 of 3332
Quote:
Originally Posted by ricwhite View Post

My next projector (3 years from now or so) will likely be a laser 4k 3D.

That's funny. Five years ago I said my next front projector would be a laser. Rumors back then were that they were right around the corner.
post #1338 of 3332
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Motovet View Post

Any problem with using a Harmony on the 5010? I just realized my old 610 is maxed out, plus I'm tired of re-taping the back when it's battery time. Time for a new one.....what's good these days?

I have a harmony 550 and it works just fine.
Actually, I never even had to reprogram/reconfigure it from when it was used for my Epson 8350.
post #1339 of 3332
Had my first little glitch with my 5010 last weekend - after watching a movie, I shut down all the hardware in my A/V rack, including the Blu-ray player, then I tried to power off the projector - it would not go into standby using either the remote or the power button on the unit. I had to let the projector shut off on it's own after timing out with no signal applied, which I believe I have set to 30 minutes... any one else experience this shut-off issue?
post #1340 of 3332
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lt.Aldo.Raine View Post

I am getting a new 3D projector tomorrow... I am going to a have 25ft 1.4 HDMI cable going from the projector to the Receiver. Do i need a 1.4 cable going from the receiver to the PS3 ? I have read that you need 1.4 to run 3D...Is that even true ? Will i be alright running a 1.3 HDMI from the receiver to the PS3 ? thanks

I use my projector for a pc monitor all the time (typing on it now) 1080p60 desktop use is more bandwith than either 3D mode so the cables should be good. The only issue you may have is having to hook the PS3 directly up to the projector to get 3D mode enabled. After that you can go through the receiver (assuming you have a 3D enabled receiver)
post #1341 of 3332
I just set up my 3010 and my PS3 is not recognizing my 3D blu rays...i have tried 3 of them. Is there something i have to do to the PS3.......I does not recognize my 3010 a being a 3D display...Is there a setting on the Epson that i have to use ?thanks for your help


Here is my receiver http://www.amazon.com/Onkyo-TX-Chann...1919835&sr=8-1


post #1342 of 3332
Re. whether using the multi-point alignment feature causes a loss of resolution or not...

If resolution is really being lost, there are 2 places you could see if it is happening or not...

Some test/setup discs have multiburst patterns with series of black and white lines... the finest resolution has 1 pixel alternating white and black lines, the next grouping has lines that are 2 pixels wide, etc. If there is lost resolution, the single pixel lines in the multi-burst pattern won't resolve cleanly. A "beating" pattern or missing information is the tip-off that you aren't seeing full 1920x1080 resolution. Generally the multiburst pattern has only vertical lines which will reveal horizontal resolution issues only. You'd also need a horizontal multi-burst pattern to examine vertical resolution, but those can be difficult to find outside of a video signal generator.

The other pattern that is useful is the pixel phase pattern on Joe Kane's Digital Video Essentials Blu-ray. This pattern has a number of checkerboard patterns where the squares are made up of black and white pixels. The finest of these patterns is a single-pixel checkerboard. If that pattern is not rendering cleanly, then 1920x1080 resolution is not being produced by the projector (or panel). Some years back, LCD projectors and panels would reproduce the 1x1 checkerboard pattern as a black rectangle... meaning they were completely incapable of full 1920x1080 resolution. By the nature of the 1x1 pixel checkerboard pattern, you can see horizontal and vertical resolution problems at the same time.

The 5010 that's here right now resolved horizontal and vertical multi-burst patterns and the 1x1 checkerboard pattern before using the 187 point (times 2, 187 points for red, 187 points for blue) alignment grid to fine tune convergence... and it also resolved all 3 patterns correctly after performing a full-screen convergence procedure. That would indicate no loss of resolution from using the multi-point alignment feature.
post #1343 of 3332
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by FreyTheater View Post

Had my first little glitch with my 5010 last weekend - after watching a movie, I shut down all the hardware in my A/V rack, including the Blu-ray player, then I tried to power off the projector - it would not go into standby using either the remote or the power button on the unit. I had to let the projector shut off on it's own after timing out with no signal applied, which I believe I have set to 30 minutes... any one else experience this shut-off issue?

Try unplugging the HDMI cable if this happens again.
I forgot what it's called but may be it got a command from your receiver or blu-ray that cause it to not shutdown.

*I turn off all HDMI type protocols/features that allow devices to sync using a specific protocol. There is a setting in the projector for this and I turned it off because my receiver came on everytime the projector turned on & vise versa.
post #1344 of 3332
Quote:
Originally Posted by Doug Blackburn View Post

Re. whether using the multi-point alignment feature causes a loss of resolution or not.... (See above post for details.)

Excellent post on a very interesting (to me, anyway) topic. I don’t doubt your observations. However, digital pixel alignment issues are complex and there’s no easy way to test it. First of all, although it is possible to get pixel splitting across the entire screen (by setting all 4 corners off ½ pixel), normally it occurs unevenly across the screen. Secondly, and probably more significantly, this only affects red and blue. Digital pixel alignment only affects the red and blue panels. I’m guessing your test patterns do not test just red or blue. In order to use black and white test patterns, you’d have to turn off green and either red or blue. The eye is most sensitive to green (which I’m sure is why Epson and probably other projector companies select green as the “fixed” panel). This means that the effect on black and white pictures and test patterns is less than it would be otherwise.

Of course, you could argue that if you don’t notice reduced red and blue resolution on parts of the screen when you are looking at black and white resolution patterns, then it doesn’t matter much. I’ve been pondering how to determine its importance in typical color movies. Perhaps displaying 1080 X 1920 highly detailed colored pictures or maybe carefully selected frames from high quality movies would be a good way.

Although one can easily see the effect of pixel splitting up close on the Epson pixel alignment pattern when looking at just two colors, I’m not sure how noticeable it is at normal viewing distance on typical video. Even with pixel splitting in effect, my picture also looks quite sharp to me at normal viewing distances. It isn’t as razor sharp as a good DLP projector, but certainly not fuzzy. However, my normal viewing distance is about 1.3X screen width, not under 1X screen width that some people on this forum have.

I still maintain that one should avoid pixel splitting and that pixel splitting is worse than minor (less than 1 pixel) misconvergence. The only question in my opinion is whether it really matters much in normal viewing.
post #1345 of 3332
Quote:
Originally Posted by dna View Post

I still maintain that one should avoid pixel splitting and that pixel splitting is worse than minor (less than 1 pixel) misconvergence. The only question in my opinion is whether it really matters much in normal viewing.


So I got all hot and bothered...and now I am down again

Honestly, I still struggle to know EXACTLY how to determine if I am 1 pixel off or 3 in the alignment section...should I touch it or leave it alone.

I know our eyes may not be able to tell, but I want perfection.
post #1346 of 3332
I have included some pics I took tonight of the screen with the digital pixel alignment feature engaged. there are 3 pictures of the corners, a forth pic of the grid pattern with pixel alignment on and the fifth pic of the grid pattern with the feature off.

Moving the red or blue vertically or horizontally on the corners results in no visible movement one way or another, therefore this feature on the 5010 in my case is worthless.

Are there any other known methods out there that Epson could have implemented that would have made life easier for us mortals?
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post #1347 of 3332
Quote:
Originally Posted by luismanrara View Post

I have included some pics I took tonight of the screen with the digital pixel alignment feature engaged. there are 3 pictures of the corners, a forth pic of the grid pattern with pixel alignment on and the fifth pic of the grid pattern with the feature off.

Moving the red or blue vertically or horizontally on the corners results in no visible movement one way or another, therefore this feature on the 5010 in my case is worthless.

Are there any other known methods out there that Epson could have implemented that would have made life easier for us mortals?

I was experiencing the same issue when I was trying to adust my corners - then I noticed that all the pixel movement was happening at the horizontally opposite corner from where the yellow square is positioned. When the yellow square is in the upper left corner, observe the pixels moving in the upper right corner... supposedly this is because I have the image inverted for ceiling mounting upside-down, but I'm not really sure why it actually would cause that.
post #1348 of 3332
Quote:
Originally Posted by dna View Post

Excellent post on a very interesting (to me, anyway) topic. I don't doubt your observations. However, digital pixel alignment issues are complex and there's no easy way to test it. First of all, although it is possible to get pixel splitting across the entire screen (by setting all 4 corners off ½ pixel), normally it occurs unevenly across the screen. Secondly, and probably more significantly, this only affects red and blue. Digital pixel alignment only affects the red and blue panels. I'm guessing your test patterns do not test just red or blue. {snipped}

There are color multiburst patterns as well. Alternating single pixel red and cyan lines and alternating single pixel blue and yellow lines. Those also resolve properly after doing the full-screen fine alignment process. I never needed very large corrections at any location... 1-3 clicks, and no adjustments in perhaps 25-30% of the intersections that can be adjusted. The black & white patterns will resolve single color issues fairly easily though... you get a color-beating pattern rather than a black or gray beating pattern if just 1 or 2 colors are lower in resolution than the full 1920x1080.

I always look at the b&w and color multiburst patterns after doing alignment procedures like this just to insure something didn't go wrong. I think if you're correcting errors larger than about 1/2 pixel, you could get into a zone where you begin to see negative effects from pixel splitting. I've had 4 projectors here in the last 6 months that had multi-point alignment features and all of them were improved by using the feature carefully -- but none of them had errors larger than about 1/3 of a pixel. Frankly, I didn't think I'd see a difference with convergence errors of 1/3 or 1/4 of a pixel versus perfect alignment across the whole screen, but when convergence is made perfect, the images really come to life.
post #1349 of 3332
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by luismanrara View Post

I have included some pics I took tonight of the screen with the digital pixel alignment feature engaged. there are 3 pictures of the corners, a forth pic of the grid pattern with pixel alignment on and the fifth pic of the grid pattern with the feature off.

Moving the red or blue vertically or horizontally on the corners results in no visible movement one way or another, therefore this feature on the 5010 in my case is worthless.

Are there any other known methods out there that Epson could have implemented that would have made life easier for us mortals?

*If you're ceiling mounted, the opposite corner will adjust.
post #1350 of 3332
Quote:
Originally Posted by 42Plasmaman View Post

*If you're ceiling mounted, the opposite corner will adjust.

Thank you, it was already brought to my attention and in fact that is the case.

I spent about an hour working on it last night and got it to work, and honestly I think it hurts the picture more than it helps it.
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