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Official Epson PowerLite Home Cinema 5010 / 6010 thread - Page 48

post #1411 of 3037
Quote:
Originally Posted by wnielsenbb View Post

And I will give you a dollar if you can tell the difference.

Actually no ps3 can do 3D and lossless at the same time, afaik.

I'll take your dollar. If you can't hear the difference, that's not my problem. The quality of the playback system is a factor though... most AVR-based systems with budget loudspeakers will make the difference pretty subtle or inaudible. The systems I'm using are well into 5-figures most of the time. It's +/- 2.5 dB from 16 Hz to 20kHz. Though I just recently reviewed a $1600 Hsu Research 5.1 system that had no trouble revealing the difference between a DD track and a TrueHD or DTS-HD MA track from the same movie. It was being driven by high-end audio components though. I have to keep the playing field level so I don't under-rate the performance of less expensive products by only using a budget AVR to drive budget 5.1 speaker systems.

And the soundtrack has to be well done to start with... not the sort of soundtrack you get on dramas and rom-coms... we're talking soundtracks where someone actually CARED about the quality of the soundtrack. Hugo is a good example of a recent release with a great soundtrack.
post #1412 of 3037
Quote:
Originally Posted by lespurgeon View Post

I'd call VA - they are your local dealer.

Visual Apex? They are in Seattle??
post #1413 of 3037
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by mickey79 View Post

Visual Apex? They are in Seattle??

A ferry ride away.
Not sure they have a walk in front or if they are web only.

Visual Apex, Inc.
7950 NE Day Rd W
Bainbridge Island, WA 98110
post #1414 of 3037
Quote:
Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post

Not unless your drop ceiling panels are all made out of 3 quarter inch plywood. Drop ceiling installation all require a bridge adapter of some type, to go between and above the support struts that makeup the framework of the drop ceiling.

You could make your own bridge out of plywood to attach the screws directly through the drop ceiling panel an into that plywood, however it would have to be cut fairly precisely so that it goes completely from 1 side of the ledges to another.

OK, Drop ceiling isn't the correct term. It isn't ceiling tiles. I mean the ceiling is lower in the back of the room and opens up just in front of where the projector will be mounted. Hopefully that will mean I won't need to extend it down any to get a clear light path.

post #1415 of 3037
OK, totally noob question. I want to go with a Scope screen. At times I will want to project 16:9 too. First, is there any problem with the 5010 and the Scope format. The online manual for the 5010 is really confusing on this. (Well, at least to me.) Also, with no electric zoom/focus will I have to manually adjust those parameters when I go to 16:9 formatted material? Again, sorry for the basic questions but I want to be sure this projector will do what I need for it to do.
post #1416 of 3037
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bullitt5094 View Post

OK, totally noob question. I want to go with a Scope screen. At times I will want to project 16:9 too. First, is there any problem with the 5010 and the Scope format. The online manual for the 5010 is really confusing on this. (Well, at least to me.) Also, with no electric zoom/focus will I have to manually adjust those parameters when I go to 16:9 formatted material? Again, sorry for the basic questions but I want to be sure this projector will do what I need for it to do.

The 5010 does not have the two anamorphic modes that the 6010 does in that the 6010 will stretch vertically or horizontally with the touch of a button. If you are using an Anamorphic Lens with the 5010 you would still need some sort of external scaler to stretch the picture to get rid of the black bars with scope movies. If you are not using an Anamorphic Lens with the 5010 and you do not have an external scaler you would have to use the zoom method........manually. So if you are watching a 16x9 picture and you have your zoom set for that, when a scope picture is then used you would have to turn the zoom dial to fill out the screen, then adjust it back for 16x9 if you don't have an external scaler.
post #1417 of 3037
Received my 6010 2 days ago. Ceiling mounted, 18 feet from a 133 inch screen. I am seeing a yellow line at top of the screen and a bluish line at the bottom. Did pixel alignment, some were off by 4 or 5. Is this a faulty unit or some adjustment issue? Any help greatly appreciated!
LL
LL
LL
post #1418 of 3037
Quote:
Originally Posted by smnavare View Post

Received my 6010 2 days ago. Ceiling mounted, 18 feet from a 133 inch screen. I am seeing a yellow line at top of the screen and a bluish line at the bottom. Did pixel alignment, some were off by 4 or 5. Is this a faulty unit or some adjustment issue? Any help greatly appreciated!

Yeah, I would say something is not right.

If you turn off LCD alignment do you still see the colors?
post #1419 of 3037
Quote:
Originally Posted by smnavare View Post

Received my 6010 2 days ago. Ceiling mounted, 18 feet from a 133 inch screen. I am seeing a yellow line at top of the screen and a bluish line at the bottom. Did pixel alignment, some were off by 4 or 5. Is this a faulty unit or some adjustment issue? Any help greatly appreciated!

I assume you get these yellow & cyan bars on everything you display, not just that one frame, right? If you press the 5010 remote's Pattern button, do you see a yellow line on top and a cyan line on the bottom?

It looks like a lot more than 4 or 5 pixels to me. The top bar is missing blue. (Red + Green = Yellow). The bottom bar is missing red (Blue + Green = Cyan). It appears that the blue LCD panel is way too low and the red panel is way too high. However, if that was the case, the entire screen would be messed up and it isn't. I can't imagine what would cause that. It isn't just LCD panel misalignment or anything you can adjust. If these bars are on everything you display, you'll have to return the projector.
post #1420 of 3037
Thanks for the quick replies, guys.
@toofast68...yes the colors persist on turning off the alignment.
@David...the bars are on everything I display.

Guess, will have to call Epson on monday for a return
post #1421 of 3037
Quote:
Originally Posted by smnavare View Post

Thanks for the quick replies, guys.
@toofast68...yes the colors persist on turning off the alignment.
@David...the bars are on everything I display.

Guess, will have to call Epson on monday for a return


YES !! They will take care of you....so at least we have that going for us.
post #1422 of 3037
Quote:
Originally Posted by smnavare View Post

Thanks for the quick replies, guys.
@toofast68...yes the colors persist on turning off the alignment.
@David...the bars are on everything I display.

Guess, will have to call Epson on monday for a return

I have the single green line on the top of my 5010.

However - I run my video through an AVR with a Video Processor.

My Video processor turns on EDGES and the Line is GONE.
post #1423 of 3037
Quote:
Originally Posted by studlygoorite View Post

The 5010 does not have the two anamorphic modes that the 6010 does in that the 6010 will stretch vertically or horizontally with the touch of a button. If you are using an Anamorphic Lens with the 5010 you would still need some sort of external scaler to stretch the picture to get rid of the black bars with scope movies. If you are not using an Anamorphic Lens with the 5010 and you do not have an external scaler you would have to use the zoom method........manually. So if you are watching a 16x9 picture and you have your zoom set for that, when a scope picture is then used you would have to turn the zoom dial to fill out the screen, then adjust it back for 16x9 if you don't have an external scaler.

Thanks for the reply! I want to be sure I understand correctly. Using a Scope screen, the 6010 will scale from Scope to a correctly zoomed 16:9 with bars on either side of the picture on the scope screen, without manually zooming it. And you don't have to add an additional Anamorphic lens to do it. Is that right?
post #1424 of 3037
Has anyone had there 5010 pro calibrated? If so would you please post or pm me all the detailed settings? I'd appreciate it
post #1425 of 3037
I have a Grandview 100" 1.0 gain fixed screen.. I like the picture but wonder if another screen would help produce an even better picture? I'd appreciate any thoughts.
post #1426 of 3037
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bullitt5094 View Post

Thanks for the reply! I want to be sure I understand correctly. Using a Scope screen, the 6010 will scale from Scope to a correctly zoomed 16:9 with bars on either side of the picture on the scope screen, without manually zooming it. And you don't have to add an additional Anamorphic lens to do it. Is that right?

Not quite,

If you do not have an anamorphic lens or an external scaler to stretch the picture either horizontally or vertically then you must manually zoom the picture, and if you have to manually zoom the picture the anamorphic modes on the 6010 are not needed.

The 6010 will not scale from scope to a correctly zoomed 16.9 picture, all the 6010 will do is stretch the pic horizontally or vertically so if you have a scope pic going and you use the 6010 to stretch it vertically you are not done then everyone will be tall and skinny, you need an external scaler to stretch the pic horizontally to make everyone look their normal weight Some Bluray players have the ability to scale the picture.
post #1427 of 3037
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by smnavare View Post

Thanks for the quick replies, guys.
@toofast68...yes the colors persist on turning off the alignment.
@David...the bars are on everything I display.

Guess, will have to call Epson on monday for a return

Go ahead and request a replacement but try this if you can.

1. Place the projector on a table so it's right side up and about centered to the screen.
2. Make the picture right side up.
3. Try to use as little vertical lens shift as possible.

Do you still have the yellow line issue?

*This test will help determine if the issue is with using ample vertical lens shift or a general issue with your projector. If table mount corrects the issue, I suspect you might be hitting the edge of the lens and possibly causing chromatic aberration at the picture edges by using a lot of vertical lens shift.
post #1428 of 3037
Thanks for the suggestions.
@ drhankz...i connected the BD player directly to the PJ, eliminating the AVR..still had the bars.
@ 42plasmaman...I tried UR suggestion...the bars still persist, so i guess it is not a vertical shift issue....
will have to request a replacement..
post #1429 of 3037
Quote:
Originally Posted by smnavare View Post

Thanks for the suggestions.
@ drhankz...i connected the BD player directly to the PJ, eliminating the AVR..still had the bars.
@ 42plasmaman...I tried UR suggestion...the bars still persist, so i guess it is not a vertical shift issue....
will have to request a replacement..

I believe it is an Overscan Issue - something I can tweak in my AVR.

MAYBE NOT in your AVR.
post #1430 of 3037
For those interested in CIH screen. I have constructed a DIY kit to motorize the lens of a Epson 5010. Motorization of the vertical lens shift, zoom an focus. For more information see the following thread:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1401911
post #1431 of 3037
Quote:
Originally Posted by BobSev View Post

For those interested in CIH screen. I have constructed a DIY kit to motorize the lens of a Epson 5010. Motorization of the vertical lens shift, zoom an focus. For more information see the following thread:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1401911

That's too impressive for words! Approximately how much did the parts cost? What would be involved in a position sensor/memory system for the zoom and vertical shift?
post #1432 of 3037
Quote:
Originally Posted by wnielsenbb View Post

And I will give you a dollar if you can tell the difference.

Actually no ps3 can do 3D and lossless at the same time, afaik.

that's funny my Ps3 slim play all my 3D blu rays and my Onkyo Tx-NR709 light up the True-HD or DTS-HD.
post #1433 of 3037
Quote:
Originally Posted by dna View Post

That's too impressive for words! Approximately how much did the parts cost? What would be involved in a position sensor/memory system for the zoom and vertical shift?

Total cost is around 350$.

No memory as it would involve stepper motors, programming and a PC.
post #1434 of 3037
I got the 5010 a few weeks ago and I get two problems I have not seen anyone mentioned in this forum.

I've an Oppo BDP-95 whose HDMI 1 (primary video output) is connected directly to the 5010. The Oppo’s HDMI 2 is hooked up to an Integra Prepro (DHC-9.9) that is connected to the second HDMI port in the 5010. My Integra Prepro does not support 3-D, hence the direct link between the Oppo and the 5010.

When I use the Oppo via the Integra, everything works fine.

When I try to use the direct link between the Oppo and 5010, sometimes it works. But other times, I get a red background. The DVD would play with a red solid red background. When I switch to 5010's other HDMI port (the one connected to the Integra) temporarily and then switch back to the HDMI with the Oppo direct link, I get a no signal notice on the screen. A couple of times, instead of the no signal note, I got the following message: "H 67.56 kHz V 60.05 Hz Not Supported."

However, when I turn off the Oppo and turn it back on again, everything is fine and I can play DVD's, Blu-rays, and 3-D's except with one problem.

When I play a disc, DVD or Blu-ray or 3D, the disc would start but the picture would not appear until a few seconds later. In other words, there's a delay of a few seconds after the disc starts and before the 5010 catches on, and I miss the first few seconds of video. This also happens if I stop the movie in the middle and then resume it. There's again a delay of a few seconds before the projector catches on.

Since the audio is coming from the other HDMI via the Integra, the sound would come first followed by the picture a few seconds later. There's no problem with the audio and video sync. The lip sync is perfect.

This problem occurs whether I'm connecting the Oppo directly to the 5010's HDMI 1 or HDMI 2.

I have tried two different HDMI cables, Monoprice (15 ft) and Monster Cable Ultimate High Speed (12 ft.) with the same result. These cables are supposed to be 3-D capable.

I’d appreciate if someone could offer some suggestions as to the cause of these two problems and hopefully a solution to them.

Thanks in advance.
post #1435 of 3037
Both are handshake issues, try to set resolution to 1080p and avoid auto...
post #1436 of 3037
I have an Oppo BDP-95, Epson 6010 and the cheapest 25' HDMI cable I could find. HDMI cable goes to direct to the 6010 and analog outs go to an ancient McIntosh MX-132 without any lip sync or other issues.
post #1437 of 3037
Out of curiosity, what screen are you guys using with your 5010 or 6010? I'm using my 5010 with a 100" Grandview 1.0 fixed screen in a light controlled room. I'm happy with the picture but wonder how much better it could be with another screen besides a black diamond.
post #1438 of 3037
Attachment 241906

This is my setup.
LL
post #1439 of 3037
Quote:
Originally Posted by jslaw81 View Post


This is my setup.

I used my iPhone camera so the pic quality isn't great.
post #1440 of 3037
Quote:
Originally Posted by jslaw81 View Post

Out of curiosity, what screen are you guys using with your 5010 or 6010? I'm using my 5010 with a 100" Grandview 1.0 fixed screen in a light controlled room. I'm happy with the picture but wonder how much better it could be with another screen besides a black diamond.

I use a 120" Da-Lite with a Da-Mat White screen...it is fantastic...PERFECT.

And if you read the reviews, that material is ONE OF the best for low ambient light rooms...as long as you have the lumens...which we do!
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