Official Epson PowerLite Home Cinema 5010 / 6010 thread - Page 57

Hi everyone. I just received my new 6010 and am currently viewing on 110'' screen. Awesome. We are currently building a new house in which I will have a room in my basement measuring 26' wide by 24' deep with 10' ceilings. I would like to use the largest screen possible without compromising picture quality. Any recommendations for screen size and gain?

Thanks!

Oppo will only e-mail to customer on request.

How far away will you be sitting? Do you like sitting at the front of a movie theater? More towards the rear?

20 feet. very back of room. would really like to go bigger than 130. dont really care about high or low lamp either. will use what ever necessary for best picture. hopefully same quality on high lamp as now on low with 110'' screen

Thanks for the link. I read the article ... for me the keystone correction is < 1' on a 100' screen. That being said, I will try to re-align the projector + screen this weekend to see what works best.

How important is it to have the projector lower than the top of the screen? I know about the lens shift but really don't want to have a 3 foot pipe coming down from the ceiling

I don't have any problem with my projector above the screen. I wouldn't have it any other way.

I think if your staying within a few inches of the top of the screen, above/below, not much difference. Some pj allow more, some less, so enough to keep the look unobtrusive and still stay within the capabilities of the pj.

http://www.projectorreviews.com/advi...alkeystone.php

"So the bottom line, variable Lens Shift, is the best way to keep your image rectangular, unless you can place the projector right where it needs to be in terms of height. Even fixed lens shift (which, as noted earlier) will create a small amount of bowing, but variable lens shift will have different amounts of bowing depending on design, distance of the projector to the screen relative to the projector's vertical position, etc."

Its important Ive found Gil to research whether the director has a handle on things like colour and depth at this early stage . I have a close look at this site [though for cinemas its still a good guide] and also hi def digest 3d reviews..

http://www.cinemablend.com/news.php?...0not%20to%203d

This has educated me to buy top rank films like tintin;hugo;drive angry despicable me [humorous though animated] ;captain america ;even green hornet and piranha . And avoid Thor ;green lantern; Conan and cash in titles like Clash of the titans ; and Harry Potter deathly hallows part 1 Be cautious if the film was shot with 3d cameras or post converted though these are improving certainly..

Ive only a 1.0gain 110" screen and Hugo's colours 'popped' even using 3d thx mode let alone dynamic on my tw9000 Nowhere near being a batcave either.

Thank you for that link buddy.
I saved it in my Favorites now.
Have you seen the score on Tar Wars EPI.
Now I regrat that I did not go to the cinema.
I have a card so I can go for free, but now that I have an Epson TW9000W, I've got so lazy that I don't wanna go except, whem the movie is really good and I can't wait for it to come out on Blu-Ray

If I would have known that this SW movie was this good converted, I WOULD have gone right away.

Thanks for the responses My Dwin is about 2 1/2 feet above the top of my screen and it works fine at that height with lens shift, wasnt sure if the Epson would do well in that position

Can anyone share calibration settings they are using ? Here are some of my learnings based on a 100' screen, viewing in a 16x16', somewhat light controlled basement (there is a single window), at a 12' viewing distance.

ECO is on for all modes, all modes are default unless otherwise stated:
1. Dynamic : The picture pops (desirable) but it is too bright after a while. Seriously.. too bright.
2. Living room: Washed out colors.. not the best mode I have tested.
3. Natural : Closest to watchable. However, picture doesnt pop. Changed Brightness:3, Contrast:1, Color Sat: 2, Tint 1, Skin tone 4, Gamma 2.3, Gain R: 2, Gain G -4, Gain B 1, Auto Iris High Speed.
4. Cinema : Picture looks under-exposed. Too dim. Basic contrast / brightness did not help.

For my viewing conditions, Natural Mode is best for me.. can someone provide inputs on how to get the picture to "pop" like the dynamic mode? I dont think this is desirable for everyone, but I wanted to get thoughts on what the Dynamic mode does to get the vibrant colors.

Appreciate the inputs. Thanks.

How often should the dust filter be changed? Is there a built in timer suggesting it is time for a new filter?

@ Veegashomes.
The filters must be cleaned after every 250 hours or so.
If they are tooo dirty buy a new one.
Don't be cheap on that cause this can ruin the projector.

@ Kimsharma
Do you have equipment to calibrate.?
If you set the contrast on +1, chances are that you already crushed the whites.
You can roughly test this with the 90IRE, 95IRE and 100IRE patterns.
Switching between the 95 and 100 IRE, must give you the same jump of light as when switching from 95IRE to 90IRE and back.

On my projector I have turned On Epson Super White.
By doing that, you'll lower the whites but you can turn it up preciser.
You can go till +10 on my projector.
Than I still can see the difference between 100IRE and 109IRE.
if you're not sure with the whites setting, than choose 1 setting lower.
You don't want to crush whites.
The AVS Disk have good patterns as well for setting Blacks and Whites as well.

Brightness on 0, (but that's on my projector).
If you set Brightness too high you will loose the Pop and Wow.

I have Super Resolution on 2.

I use Gamma color on HDTV and set Gamma on 2,4
In Calman I calibrated on ITU/EBU on 2.4.
This gave me that Plasma look on my 106" HC screen.
I have to check the results on my 120"white sceen too, but first I need to try a few other setting out.
I have to try Calman's Power on 2,4 too and compare this with ITU/EBU, but my livingroom can be darkened completely, but the ceiling and floor are white, so it probably wont work for me.

You need a meter and calibration porgram to go this far BUT it is absolutely worth it.

Copying settings wont work.
I believe, since I have an early projector the later versions will look differend in color to begin with.

If you don't have the equipment and want to let your projector clibrated,...
If you have a dark room, tel the calibrator to do it on Gamma 2.4
This will give you more Pop, and this Epson projector is fantastic in revwiling shadow details.
So no need to do it in Gamma 2.2

George put a lot of effort into the conversion for sure . Its a bit like the dollars poured into James Camerons efforts with Titanic ;slightly hamstrung by the original 2d framing but long shots taking advantage of better depth .

Not to worry ; If Lucas's track record keeps up it will be rereleased in 6 months time

I just bought the whole SW collection again in Blu-Ray.
Just when I thought I bought the final release of Star Wars,...
I knew I would have to pay money for Star Wars AGAIN.

Thanks for the insights. I am using the Disney WoW disc for basic calibration. I also realized that I need to burn through min. 50 hours before attempting calibration... I'll look at your calibration strategy and see what works once I am past the initial hours. Thanks again.

When you just have your projector, it's better than to just use that disk, and let your projector be calibrated after 200 hours or so.
Unless you have the equipment yourself of course.

Natural mode looks the best indeed, out of the box.

can i use a 165'' screen with epson 6010. will i have good quality picture

In natural mode or dynamic mode. it is possible.

You sacrificing sepurb picture quallity for size.
Or you have a Plasma quallity screen of 110"or just a projected picture of mwsiocre quallity but huge.
To me,... I rather sit closer and have a stunning picture
I have a HC screen of 106"and a White screen of 120"
when I lower the larger screen people are impressed by the size, but most of the time they find it to big for watching movies, specially with subtitles.
When I let them see the 106"version they are more impressed by the quallity of that picture.
So now this is the screen that I use for most of the time.

The same is with the cinema's.
When I go to the Pathé Cinema here, with 14 theatres in the building.
You have a few theaters that are smaller than the larger ones, but they use the same projector, so you end up with a mpre dynamic quallity picture.
I'm alway's happy when the same movie play's in those smaller ones.
The largest theatres are very dim in picture quallity and the pans are dramatic and sharpness is bad.

My 2ct's

Has anyone here have any experience using a HDMI switcher with the Epson's. I will be using a 22awg 25' cable (Monoprice) and would like to use a switcher(powered or passive) so I can switch between up to 3 inputs. Will 3d be passed without problem. Thanks

Absolutely. Been there done that. Out to 180"+ in fact. There are a few limitations, and screen requirements, but the 6010 is more than capable of performing at that screen size

I'm using this Kinivo, http://www.amazon.com/Kinivo-301BN-P.../dp/B0049S6ZUS

Connecting a panasonic bdt300 3d bluray, and dish 722, with a 25' cable. I had an older non-powered switch, that wouldn't work. An intermittent flash was seen in the video source. You may get mixed results on a passive switch for that length?

Could someone compare what the wireless HDMI lookslike on the xxxxe to the DVDO Air (DVDOAir-P) below.

Is the DVDO just private labeled to Epson? Looks SO close to me.

YES - I bought three 3D HDMI Switches from Monoprice.

I had to return 2 of them - for 3D Incompatibility.

The one that works perfectly is the 8463

to Mattheiu and MississippiMan, Thank You.