Official Epson PowerLite Home Cinema 5010 / 6010 thread - Page 69

sorry if I missed it but why did you replace the panny 7000?

The main reason was brightness. I felt the Pana wasn't really bright enough for my size screen and I wanted higher ftl's, the normal picture mode on the Pana was bright but the cinema modes which have the best image quality was lacking, so I sold the Pana and got the Epson 6010. The Epson is quite a bit brighter in it's best cinema modes so I'm pleased with the higher ftl's now and it has better contrast aswell.
Edited by nirvy111 - 6/22/12 at 8:46pm

what size screen do you have? gain?

160" 2.8 gain High Power.

ty

Just finished installing the Hoya ND 2 HMC 77mm filter on the EPSON EH-TW9000W (European Version) - equivalent to EPSON 5010/6010 US version.
I am excited with the results Blacks are better, colors are better and generally I like the picture a lot more.

I had to do a bit of DIY to fit the filter but everything is OK now. I cut a hard plastic in a circle of 12.5 cm diameter and inside it I cut off a circle hole of 7.7cm in which I place the ND2 filter. I then fixed the whole thing in the outside aluminum ring of the EPSON projector using double face stickers. Not that hard to do so - took me only around 20 minutes. Here are some photos how it looks like.

Interesting work. Did you give any thought to ventilating the space between the lens and filter? If the Hoya filter is glass then it should hold up well but I'm wondering if the plastic ring you set it into will withstand the heat build up without warping or discoloring over time. Anyway, thanks for sharing.

I do not know if the space between the lens and the filter needs any ventilating. I was projecting for almost 2 hours in 3D mode and when I touched the plastic outer ring of the filter was cold, so it seems heat is not an issue.
The Hoyas filter is glass. As far as the plastic outer ring i do not think it matters if it changes color over time as the light of the image projected is passing through the Hoyas filter.

Regarding ventilation I suppose I someone could cut small holes on the outer plastic ring....

I tried an ND2 filter on my 3010 ....while the blacks got better, I hated the reduction in overall brightness and loss of contrast....

Did you recalibrate yours after putting the filter ?

Yes I recalibrated after puttin on the filter, but the adjustments were minimal.

My projection screen is only 88" and I am sitting around 3 meters away. The projector is only 3.3 meters away from the screen, so to be honest I have not noticed a reduction in brightness that bothers me.

What brand of ND2 filter you used ? You have to get a good brand for better results not the cheap ones that sell in ebay.

Hello, everyone. I'm getting pretty close to making my final decision and I'm leaning towards the 5010/6010. My question is about sports is a lit room. One of the reasons that I want a pj over the new Panny plasma is to have people over to watch football. However, I don't like the idea of watching the game with the lights off. My plan is to have lighting from room fixtures and not windows. Do you guys think that this is feasible or should I just go with the plasma? I plan on using a Stewart Firehawk 92 or 100 in screen. Thanks!

I was using an Epson 8350 until March of this year when I went to Panasonic AR100 for more brightness (134" Carada BW). When I bought the AR100 the 5010 was really what I wanted but it was out of my price range. I've got the funds now and have ordered a 5010 that will be arriving later this week.
I've read through the past 30 or so pages of posts in this thread to look for tips, issues, etc. Essentially I'm trying to determine what things to check the projector for immediately to ensure everything is functioning correctly while I'm within my return window.
I read about FW ver 104 which if needed sounds easy enough to update myself.
I didn't come across any 'auto iris errors' that my 8350 had so hopefully that's not a problem for the 5010. I did read a few people had convergence issues but the 5010 has some user adjustments for that in the menus. Are there any other common problems I should check for? What's the reliability been like for these after months of use?
I did order 1 pair of Epson 3D glasses to try that out, but doubt I'll watch my 3D content on a regular basis. Any issues with 3D I should look for?
Also, if anyone has compared an AR100 to a 5010 could you comment on the picture quality between the two? I'm pleased with the picture from the AR100 (I'll probably keep it as back-up), just anxious to see how much better the 5010 picture will be.
(I'm using a Panasonic BDT220 -> Denon 3312CI -> Projector)

We use our 6010 all the time with the lights on
I have a Stewart studiotec 1.3 gain 110" screen with the projector at about 17'

Hey guys I have a question,

I have my projector (Epson 5010) hooked up to my PS3 and my Directv cable box. PS3 is hooked up to HDMI 2 and Directv his hooked up to HDMI 1. The PS3 plays flawlessly no problems what so ever. However, my Directv being hooked up to HDMI 1 cuts out periodically. I bought new HDMI cables from monoprice when I hooked all of this stuff up about two weeks ago, 25 ft. high speed cables.

When we watch satellite tv the projector will show the image for an hour or so then start cutting out. It says "not supported" at the bottom of the screen. However, if you take out the HDMI cable and plug it back in and wait a minute the image will come back. You can watch TV again for a about 10 - 15 minutes then it will do it again. What is going on? Bad HDMI cable or bad HDMI port on the back of the projector?

Thanks.

I realize your's is an old post but hoping you're still with us and have found a solution or at least an answer as to whether adding an externel emitter will turn off the internal one when selected by menu. I have my player in an equipment room and the IR extender overdrives it when 3d is played. I'm thinking that an external emitter might be the trick but like you I find it an expensive experiement.

I had a similar problem with my Sat Box, I had my settings set wrong. Try going into the settings on your sat box and set to 1080 mine was set to native and was flicking on and off. One other thing if you are hooked up through a receiver or processor try setting that to Passthrough.

I too watch some normal tv programming with some ambient light on. My great room has an adjoining kitchen and the 60w light fixture about 20' from the screen isn't bad at all, and thats still in ECO mode. 1.3 gain 126" screen on a 14' throw. Of course blacks suffer some, but for non critical viewing like the super bowl it'll be fine. You can always crank up dynamic mode, if you need it a little brighter for the game too.

Over 6mths on mine, only issue I've had is the image dropping down slightly over time, say 1/4" over a 6 day period? The vert and horz shift knobs kinda work in conjunction with each other, where as adjusting one will slightly move the other. This seemed to be some relation to this issue. It seemed as I recall, if the horz knob was set dead center, this allowed the image to drop slightly over time, and it wasn't just the knob moving either as I tried some tape to keep it in place. I even checked the mount to make sure that the screws were tightened enough. The mechanism allowing the adjustments seem somewhat cheap in that regard? I was able to set the horz knob in a position, slightly off center I think, and that seemed to stop the slight downward vert movement of the image that was occurring. I think I've seen one, or two others mention this issue. So some adjusting of the knob/wheels maybe in order if this happens.


Some issues with the 3D emitter causing interference with your other components remote control.

Just an update for the use of the ND2 filter.

After watching 3 movies with the filter on, I decided to keep it. I like the picture better with the filter on. Better blacks, better colors - just my personal opinion

Got my 5010 today and it's amazing!

Two things:

1) what is a good ceiling mount for this? Will something from Monoprice.com work?

2) when in 3D mode - my Harmony One remote control could not control my Onkyo 805 receiver (volume) nor could my apple remote control PLEX (pause/stop/play)....is this normal or is there a trick to this that I haven't found yet?

Thanks guys -

Mike

It is the IR single from the 5010 BLOCKING all other IR signals.

Mike,

Absolutely without question or compromise, the very best mount to use with the 5010 is the dedicated Chief RPA168. It has a stamped Interface Plate with all the specific holes for attaching it to the bottom of the PJ, and a 4 point Yaw/Pitch adjustment that one locked down "WILL NOT" deviate from the set up positioning.



Is it as inexpensive as a cheap mount from Monoprice, or the other "Universal" mounts found on Ebay / Amazon?

No. But it's extremely low profile, easily assembled, has "Through the center" Wiring capability via a 1.5" NPT Threaded opening, and worth every one of the 13500 or so pennies you'll spend for it.

And....if you can do it, using a Peerless ACC570 Round Ceiling Plate to interface the Projector's Mount to the Ceiling will make the entire assembly look fantastic. ( 1995 pennies)



The best source I know of to acquire both items is Projector People. Call, then ask for Ext 2002. That will be "Kurt". Tell him MississippiMan sent you, ( ...It won't cost extra....) as he knows exactly what you need, and he'll price them both rightly.

Personally, as someone who has used that combination at least 30 times, I'll relate this; "The Mount system as described is ridiculously easy to work with, cosmetically pristine, allows doe a truly professional-looking installation, and cannot possibly leave you feeling anything less than wholly satisfied." And should you need any further helpful advice or instructions, or suggestions as to most effectively install a design that maximizes cosmetic appeal, just PM me and I'll offer you any/all the help you need.

Here is a picture of the PJ Interface Plate on a Epson 8350. The RPA168 fits every Epson 1080p in the 8000 /9000/3010-5010-6010 series.



This next shot shows just how Low Profile it really is (...less than 4" incl. Plate and Mount...)



Yeah...that's Schedule 40 PVC connecting the Mount to the Ceiling. In the installations shown just below, a ACC570 Ceiling Plate resides inside the Attic attached to a dual layer of 3/4" Plywood bridging the gap between two ceiling joists, and the Pipe smoothy exits the ceiling into the Mount. Guess where the Wiring is?




And lastly, I just found a shot of a Epson 6010 w/Chief RPA168 & Peerless ACC570 Ceiling Plate


Edited by MississippiMan - 6/26/12 at 10:35pm

MississippiMan - Thanks for the great info...I'll look into this more when I get some time after work tonight. Much appreciated!

Is there any known workaround or other option to allow for remote usage in these situations?

It is a Problem we all live with.

Most people relocate their IR equipment to make it less vulnerable.

In my case everything works because I use RS-232 to control everything.
That is NOT a practical solution for most people.

I hate it when there is an explosion during a movie and I scramble to the pre to turn it down lol. I think I need some rf remote now

Yeah...the 6010, which has built in RF.

A primary reason I would always suggest it over a 5010, both because I'm a Epson Pro Dealer as well as the recent price collapse makes the difference between the two a non-issue.

All in all, the forward mounted 3D-IR assembly was something i immediately took issue with last year at CEDIA & InfoComm. Made no sense whatsoever to me, and I let 'em know it in no uncertain terms. It amounted to being a simple cash grab by reducing costs on the 30/50 series. In fact, it creates far more issues that are for some unresolvable to be worth what little difference in Mfg price Epson saved.

Such are the decisions made by those "Higher Ups" trying to keep the Epson Pro Line-up distinctive.

Extended Warranty? A worthy thing.
Extra Bulb? More icing on the Pro-cake
A most excellent Chief RPA168 Dedicated Ceiling Mount assembly? Almost worth the price of admission alone.
Advanced Calibration Tools? Iffin you use 'em, they make a difference. If not.....


But RF Glasses on the 6010..left off the other models? Seems a bit spiteful and petty to me.


.............and what about the Wireless RF HDMI module needing to be mounted in the front of the room?

Oh Boy. I got me started.

Can you tell me more about the RF 3D glasses? I am thinking about getting the 6010 to replace my Sony VW60 which is mounted on the other side of a wall and projects thru a keyhole thru a anamorphic lense onto a 130 2.35 1.3 gain studiotec screen,

Thx,

Mark

The RF glasses work great...about the best 3D I've ever experienced.

If your only going through the back wall at sitting sustain front, you should have no issues .