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Official Epson PowerLite Home Cinema 5010 / 6010 thread - Page 77

post #2281 of 3041
8/7/12 at 10:55am
Quote:
Originally Posted by joshwars View Post

I am looking seirously at the 6010 for build - anyone have a line on when Epson will release the next lineup? I'd hate to drop the cash on this then have the new model out 3 weeks later.

I doubt anyone has a clue.

But how can they get BETTER than the 6010?

Do not wait is my two cent recommendation smile.gif
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post #2282 of 3041
8/7/12 at 12:47pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by wnielsenbb View Post

ugg, my replacement also has two blobs. I swear they look like fingerprints. Epsons refurb guys are a bit disappointing. The lens on this thing was filthy too.

Just to close the loop, Epson overnighted me a brand new (not a refurb) projector and everything looks to be o.k with this one. I'm a much happier customer now, although still somewhat frustrated that the total turnaround time from my first phone call was 16 days.

One thing I noticed right away is that the lens cover is much faster to open/close on this one, I wonder if they did some mid-model year tweaking? Also, the convergence is nearly perfect so I won't be needing to use the alignment feature anymore like I did on my original one, which had a noticeable 1 pixel offset in the red panel. Finally, the sharpness appears about the same as my original unit but unfortunately not quite as good as the "blobbed" refurb that I'm returning.

Since both the replacement units I screened had near perfect convergence, it makes me wonder if they have refined the panel alignment procedures used at the factory? My original unit was an early production unit from right before Christmas so I can imagine the QC was still a work in progress (not to mention dealing with the Holiday rush) at that time.
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post #2283 of 3041
8/7/12 at 12:53pm
It's luck of the draw most likely, and there is no way to determine if convergence is improving over a couple samples, but anything is possible.
Focus the projector 1/3rd out from the left-side of the screen instead of the middle to improve the sharpness uniformity and overall sharpness.
Go buy a Darby Darblet which will improve the perception of sharpness more, and this will help.
Edited by coderguy - 8/7/12 at 1:00pm
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post #2284 of 3041
8/7/12 at 11:38pm
frown.gif My bulb failed on me after 370 hours of bulb use (projector bought in Feb 2012). The failure occurred while I was watching a movie...after about 10 minutes into the movie, I noticed a fluctuation in the brightness of the image--almost like a bright/dim cycle every 10 seconds. At first I thought it was the disc itself causing the dimming effect, but when I stopped the disc, the bright/dim cycle continued on the player's on screen menu. Suspecting something wrong with the projector, I powered it down and unplugged the power for about 5 minutes. Then I plugged back in the power and powered up the projector. The projector went thru its normal powering up stages but the bulb never came on. After about 2-3 minutes, the power button went off, the fan kicked into high gear, and the lamp light started to flash red. And hence thats how my bulb died. Replacement bulb on order (it will take about 3-4 weeks to receive it).

I know the lamp that came with the projector is advertised to last 3,000-4,000 hours but I realistically believed that my bulb would last at least 1,500 hours before it would fail on me. Is my case considered unusual or is the bulb on these projectors actually expected to last less than 1000 hours of use? What about the replacement bulb---will it last just as long or worst?
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post #2285 of 3041
8/8/12 at 4:51am
Quote:
Originally Posted by rexdragon View Post

:Replacement bulb on order (it will take about 3-4 weeks to receive it).

Why did you ORDER ONE.

Epson provides OVER-NIGHT Shipment

Call your Personal Support Number
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post #2286 of 3041
8/8/12 at 5:20am
Quote:
Originally Posted by coderguy View Post

It's luck of the draw most likely,
Go buy a Darby Darblet which will improve the perception of sharpness more, and this will help.

I really like the Darby on my 6010. If you can afford the $270, I think you'll enjoy the improvement! For that price, I think it's a great device.
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post #2287 of 3041
8/8/12 at 7:32am
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by rexdragon View Post

The projector went thru its normal powering up stages but the bulb never came on. After about 2-3 minutes, the power button went off, the fan kicked into high gear, and the lamp light started to flash red. And hence thats how my bulb died.
Have you tried unplugging the power again, wait 5 minutes, plug it back in & turn the projector back on?
I suspect the bulb will turn on.
This issue/operation has been mentioned in this thread. I got a replacement bulb and this still occurred but only during the winter months. Has not happened since the temps have risen.
If you read the manual, I believe it states to try a power cycle when you see this specific LED flash pattern(watch the flash rate and which LED is flashing).

When/if this occurs, I let the projector shutdown on it's own.
Unplug power cord.
Wait 5 minutes & plug power cord back in.
Power up projector.

*What version FW are you running.
I can't recall if this issue has occurred since the 104 update.
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post #2288 of 3041
8/8/12 at 7:55am
Quote:
Originally Posted by 42Plasmaman View Post

...*What version FW are you running...

Is there a way to tell what firmware is on a projector? I tried the Info from the menu, and it does not list it there.

Also, I don't have any 3D glasses yet. I've posted a question on the Glasses Thread, but that thread sees very little action. If anyone here knows anything about rigging up MonsterVision 3d glasses. I'd appreciate a glance at this post.
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post #2289 of 3041
8/8/12 at 10:28am
Just purchased Epson 5010 few days back for my dedicated HT room. I ended up installing 35 feet cable from Monster cable (http://www.monstercable.com/productdisplay.asp?pin=3832)in the ceiling few weeks back. When i tested the Epson projector
(not yet mounted since ceiling needs to be finished with Dry wall) by lifting with my hand manually, i am surprised to see HDMI cable is not working. WIth additional troubleshooting done, i am ruling the cable itself is bad for somereason. I want to get some feedback from people here on what type of high speef HDMI cable they are using with Epson 5010? Any known issues in using cables from Monster cable..Thanks
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post #2290 of 3041
8/8/12 at 10:33am
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ewingr View Post

Is there a way to tell what firmware is on a projector? I tried the Info from the menu, and it does not list it there.

.
Quote:
CONFIRM THE FIRMWARE VERSION

1. Turn the AC Power switch back on, or reconnect the power cord and turn on the projector by pressing Power ON button on the control panel or the Remote.
2. Wait for it to be in a “ready” mode with a solid blue Operation Indicator.

3. The After Service (AS) menu can be viewed using the following button sequence:
a.) Press and hold the Menu button on the remote control or on the projector’s control panel for at least 8 seconds, then release
b.) Within 4 seconds of releasing the Menu button: Press and release the ESC button twice, (Esc + Esc)

4. Once you have accessed the Service menu, then either on the Remote controller or Projector’s control panel; press the “Right” directional button once on the 4-way Menu Navigation buttons to get to the AS menu “Versions” screen.

5. Once the Versions are displayed, the top series of numbers contain the version.
The digits after the V indicate the version.

Ex: P 2100496401WWV104
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post #2291 of 3041
8/8/12 at 10:37am
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ewingr View Post

Also, I don't have any 3D glasses yet. I've posted a question on the Glasses Thread, but that thread sees very little action. If anyone here knows anything about rigging up MonsterVision 3d glasses. I'd appreciate a glance at this post.
It should work as long as the Monster 3D receiver/emitter is in line of sight of the projectors 3D emitter. Not sure through what the maximum distance the Monster receiver/emitter can acommodate.
The projectors 3D emitter is right above the Epson logo on the right(facing projector right side up).
You can also see the 3D emitters light up when the projector is in 3D mode.
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post #2292 of 3041
8/8/12 at 10:41am
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by kvsub View Post

Just purchased Epson 5010 few days back for my dedicated HT room. I ended up installing 35 feet cable from Monster cable (http://www.monstercable.com/productdisplay.asp?pin=3832)in the ceiling few weeks back. When i tested the Epson projector
(not yet mounted since ceiling needs to be finished with Dry wall) by lifting with my hand manually, i am surprised to see HDMI cable is not working. WIth additional troubleshooting done, i am ruling the cable itself is bad for somereason. I want to get some feedback from people here on what type of high speef HDMI cable they are using with Epson 5010? Any known issues in using cables from Monster cable..Thanks
I'm using monoprice 22AWG and 28AWG CL2 HDMI cables that total about 46ft (30+10+6) once all cables are put together & have no issues.

http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=102&cp_id=10240&cs_id=1024002&p_id=4033&seq=1&format=2
http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=102&cp_id=10240&cs_id=1024008&p_id=3992&seq=1&format=2

What gauge is your cable?

*Typcially, you want to go with thicker cables(22 or 24AWG) for long/extended runs.
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post #2293 of 3041
8/8/12 at 10:55am
Quote:
Originally Posted by 42Plasmaman View Post

I'm using monoprice 22AWG and 28AWG CL2 HDMI cables that total about 46ft (30+10+6) once all cables are put together & have no issues.
http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=102&cp_id=10240&cs_id=1024002&p_id=4033&seq=1&format=2
http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=102&cp_id=10240&cs_id=1024008&p_id=3992&seq=1&format=2
What gauge is your cable?
*Typcially, you want to go with thicker cables(22 or 24AWG) for long/extended runs.

I am not seeing gauge information in their spec as far as i can tell.
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post #2294 of 3041
8/8/12 at 1:24pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by 42Plasmaman View Post

It should work as long as the Monster 3D receiver/emitter is in line of sight of the projectors 3D emitter. Not sure through what the maximum distance the Monster receiver/emitter can acommodate.
The projectors 3D emitter is right above the Epson logo on the right(facing projector right side up).
You can also see the 3D emitters light up when the projector is in 3D mode.

I guess the real question is does the 3D emit from the back. The front of the projector where the logo is is covered by soffit. I need to have it emit from the back.

I'll try putting it into 3D mode and see if I can tell anything

[EDIT]
As I expected, because I have no 3D content, I cannot put it into 3D mode to check.
Edited by Ewingr - 8/8/12 at 1:43pm
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post #2295 of 3041
8/8/12 at 1:47pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ewingr View Post

I guess the real question is does the 3D emit from the back. The front of the projector where the logo is is covered by soffit. I need to have it emit from the back.
I'll try putting it into 3D mode and see if I can tell anything.

No IR emitters in the rear - you would dedinitely need to use a remote emitter if the front of the unit is covered... The IR emmitters fire forward directly at your screen and bounce back to your 3D glasses.

My biggest concern with what you are describing for your enclosure is the fact that the projector also vents all it's heat at the front, just to the right of the IR emitters - and it blows hot air like a small ceramic space heater. No way can you have an enclosure wall immediately in front of the projector - you better have at least a foot of open space in front to allow the amount of hot air generated by this projector to escape well enough. This projector throws off enough heat by itself to warm my 600 sq ft. theater room a few degrees during the course of a movie, even with the central air running... If anything, the projector would be much better off mounted in an enclosure that is closed in the rear and open in the front, since everything happens at the front of the unit (lens, IR, and venting).
Edited by FreyTheater - 8/8/12 at 1:55pm
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post #2296 of 3041
8/8/12 at 2:19pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by FreyTheater View Post

No IR emitters in the rear - you would dedinitely need to use a remote emitter if the front of the unit is covered... The IR emmitters fire forward directly at your screen and bounce back to your 3D glasses.
My biggest concern with what you are describing for your enclosure is the fact that the projector also vents all it's heat at the front, just to the right of the IR emitters - and it blows hot air like a small ceramic space heater. No way can you have an enclosure wall immediately in front of the projector - you better have at least a foot of open space in front to allow the amount of hot air generated by this projector to escape well enough. This projector throws off enough heat by itself to warm my 600 sq ft. theater room a few degrees during the course of a movie, even with the central air running... If anything, the projector would be much better off mounted in an enclosure that is closed in the rear and open in the front, since everything happens at the front of the unit (lens, IR, and venting).

The heat pushing out the front does complicate things some. I have a wide vent at the right side of the projector, and I have a fan at the other side that comes on to pull are from the room through the soffit to dissipate heat from the projector. The fan that pulls the air through is controlled by a thermostat thing mounted above the projector. This kept my previous projector in good shape from 2004 until purchasing this one. So far it hasns't even come on. I may need to consider moving the heat sensor/thermostat.

Of course one reason it may be cooler up there right now is because the heating/AC duct runs right behind the projector. It may be more of a problem in winter than now.

I do feel some heat at teh front right where it exits, but the overall soffit feels pretty cool. BTW...the soffit is not a square enclosure tightly around the projector. It is close from front to back, but 15' wide. I have a thermometer that was in there with the other projector, which I had left out when I put this one in. I'll put it back, and keep and eye on it and see how it goes. Doing something different would/will be no small effort. Fingers crossed.
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post #2297 of 3041
8/8/12 at 2:41pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by joshwars View Post

I am looking seirously at the 6010 for build - anyone have a line on when Epson will release the next lineup? I'd hate to drop the cash on this then have the new model out 3 weeks later.

We should hear some news in the next month or so. CEDIA takes place early next month and lots of information comes out around then. I don't know if we will see a big improvement on something like the 6010, but if your build is a month or so out, go ahead and wait.
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post #2298 of 3041
8/8/12 at 2:46pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by jnabq View Post

I really like the Darby on my 6010. If you can afford the $270, I think you'll enjoy the improvement! For that price, I think it's a great device.

I agree, the Darbee on my 6010 is great.
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post #2299 of 3041
8/8/12 at 3:07pm
Installed my 5010 projector. I flush mounted it on the ceiling using the peerless universal mount mentioned in the threads.

The image was pointed right up on my ceiling so I had to focus the image to read the menu and then select ceiling front projection.

I had to use a considerable amount of lense shift to bring the image down on my screen. The peerless mount was excellent and I highly recommend it, the adjustment knobs make it very easy to adjust.

I got everything lined up but was only able to watch about 10 minutes of TV before I had to leave.

I will check out the recommended settings here on the forum and do the pixel alignment I read about here too.

My setup is 92" screen, projector mounter at 12' and viewing distance is 10'.
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post #2300 of 3041
8/8/12 at 8:37pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ewingr View Post

BTW...the soffit is not a square enclosure tightly around the projector. It is close from front to back, but 15' wide. I have a thermometer that was in there with the other projector, which I had left out when I put this one in. I'll put it back, and keep and eye on it and see how it goes. Doing something different would/will be no small effort. Fingers crossed.

OK, gotcha... that's much better if the sides are open and a fan blowing across the front of it... it will allow the heat to flow away from the projector much more easily, and front wall clearance won't need to be as much.
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post #2301 of 3041
8/8/12 at 9:22pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by 42Plasmaman View Post

Have you tried unplugging the power again, wait 5 minutes, plug it back in & turn the projector back on?
I suspect the bulb will turn on.
This issue/operation has been mentioned in this thread. I got a replacement bulb and this still occurred but only during the winter months. Has not happened since the temps have risen.
If you read the manual, I believe it states to try a power cycle when you see this specific LED flash pattern(watch the flash rate and which LED is flashing).
When/if this occurs, I let the projector shutdown on it's own.
Unplug power cord.
Wait 5 minutes & plug power cord back in.
Power up projector.
*What version FW are you running.
I can't recall if this issue has occurred since the 104 update.

I have tried what you suggested 5 times with the same result---the fan goes into high gear for a couple minutes then shuts off, lens cover retracts, power button goes out, and the lamp indicator light flashes red. And the bulb NEVER turns on in all tries. What about removing the bulb and reseating it again---will that fix whatever's happening with my projector? Or is my bulb totally dead? Do you have any idea what could've been causing my "bright/dim effect" when I was watching the movie right before the lamp died?
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post #2302 of 3041
8/9/12 at 12:38am
5010 text blooming.jpg 383k .jpg file
Thanks to those who have offered some good advice and suggestions trying to help solve the white blooming with my new 5010. This is a brand new replacement unit . . . and it doesn't have the overall sharp image like the one I had before (which had a cluster of burnt pixels). When checking into why the unit lacked truly decent sharpness, I found that white text on the projector showed blooming which extends about 3 pixels either below the text (when the projector is fully zoomed in) or it displays beside the text when the image is zoomed half-way between wide and telephoto.

Here is a pic I just took. This was taken with the pixel alignment reset to the factory default. Yes, I can touch up the blue and red to look a bit better . . . but the white blooming doesn't get better or worse. I tried also to do a pixel offset in increments of 8 (as suggested) and this didn't solve the issue. I suspect that it's likely the lens has an issue. Perhaps when in delivery it got whacked out of alignment a bit.

I am attaching a pic, which hopefully represents what I'm seeing. This close-up shows the issue as best a digital pic can, I guess.

I was at a home theater dealer today that sells screens. They had a 5010 that they fired up so that I could look at how their show room demo performed. I had a chance to play with it for a few mins., and the text looked nice and sharp - if it had any blooming at all, I sure couldn't see it.

From a normal viewing distance, the picture on my unit looks okay, but has an overall dull / soft look.

Can others take a look at their menu screen (looking closely at the white text on black)? I'd be interested to know if many other units offer this blooming effect.

Thanks.

Ian
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post #2303 of 3041
8/9/12 at 6:50am
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by rexdragon View Post

I have tried what you suggested 5 times with the same result---the fan goes into high gear for a couple minutes then shuts off, lens cover retracts, power button goes out, and the lamp indicator light flashes red. And the bulb NEVER turns on in all tries. What about removing the bulb and reseating it again---will that fix whatever's happening with my projector? Or is my bulb totally dead? Do you have any idea what could've been causing my "bright/dim effect" when I was watching the movie right before the lamp died?
You could try removing the bulb and reseating it to see if it helps.
If this works, it may at least hold you over til you get your bulb replacement.
As for intermittent dimming, see it does this when you have a static image like the main menu on the screen and the blu-ray/DVD player idle screen.
You could also confirm this dimming issue occurs on different movies and it's not an effect of a specific movie.
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post #2304 of 3041
8/9/12 at 7:11am
Quote:
Originally Posted by FreyTheater View Post

OK, gotcha... that's much better if the sides are open and a fan blowing across the front of it... it will allow the heat to flow away from the projector much more easily, and front wall clearance won't need to be as much.

Well, I"m hoping so. smile.gif

I checked the temp in there last night after watching for a couple hours. It was 80F. But, with it so close to the front of the soffit, it is quite warm right where the heat exhausts from the unit.
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post #2305 of 3041
8/9/12 at 10:46am
Quote:
Originally Posted by rexdragon View Post

I have tried what you suggested 5 times with the same result---the fan goes into high gear for a couple minutes then shuts off, lens cover retracts, power button goes out, and the lamp indicator light flashes red. And the bulb NEVER turns on in all tries. What about removing the bulb and reseating it again---will that fix whatever's happening with my projector? Or is my bulb totally dead? Do you have any idea what could've been causing my "bright/dim effect" when I was watching the movie right before the lamp died?

I suspect there is a fan issue here. Mine did this a few times, but usually would turn on. I would try to return it.
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post #2306 of 3041
8/9/12 at 12:22pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by teeger View Post

5010 text blooming.jpg 383k .jpg file
Thanks to those who have offered some good advice and suggestions trying to help solve the white blooming with my new 5010. This is a brand new replacement unit . . . and it doesn't have the overall sharp image like the one I had before (which had a cluster of burnt pixels). When checking into why the unit lacked truly decent sharpness, I found that white text on the projector showed blooming which extends about 3 pixels either below the text (when the projector is fully zoomed in) or it displays beside the text when the image is zoomed half-way between wide and telephoto.
Here is a pic I just took. This was taken with the pixel alignment reset to the factory default. Yes, I can touch up the blue and red to look a bit better . . . but the white blooming doesn't get better or worse. I tried also to do a pixel offset in increments of 8 (as suggested) and this didn't solve the issue. I suspect that it's likely the lens has an issue. Perhaps when in delivery it got whacked out of alignment a bit.
I am attaching a pic, which hopefully represents what I'm seeing. This close-up shows the issue as best a digital pic can, I guess.
I was at a home theater dealer today that sells screens. They had a 5010 that they fired up so that I could look at how their show room demo performed. I had a chance to play with it for a few mins., and the text looked nice and sharp - if it had any blooming at all, I sure couldn't see it.
From a normal viewing distance, the picture on my unit looks okay, but has an overall dull / soft look.
Can others take a look at their menu screen (looking closely at the white text on black)? I'd be interested to know if many other units offer this blooming effect.
Thanks.
Ian

Ian,

I could be wrong but the picture looks just like the blue pixels are out of adjustment. From what I can tell on the picture it looks like below and to the right of 7000k is a bit of a blue smear. Is that correct?

Is that what you are referring too...?

I am having a movie party tonight so before everyone gets settled I will get a shot like you did and we can compare. I do know that this projector isn't the sharpest out there anyway. Mine is a 6010 but I think they use the same lens setup...?
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post #2307 of 3041
8/9/12 at 1:57pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by kaotikr1 View Post

Ian,
I could be wrong but the picture looks just like the blue pixels are out of adjustment. From what I can tell on the picture it looks like below and to the right of 7000k is a bit of a blue smear. Is that correct?
Is that what you are referring too...?
I am having a movie party tonight so before everyone gets settled I will get a shot like you did and we can compare. I do know that this projector isn't the sharpest out there anyway. Mine is a 6010 but I think they use the same lens setup...?

Hi, Kaotikr1 . . .

Yes, you can see it below and to the right of "7000k", but you can see it also see it below the other text - you can see the smearing that extends below the text boxes too - for example the box to the right of the number 3.

The blue and red are slightly out of alignment, I'm sure, in this pic. I played with the 5010 last night for a couple of hrs. And I tried EVERYTHING I could think of to get rid of the blurry fringing around the white text. I aligned the pixels, played with lens shift, zoomed to various places within the zoom range, changed up some settings (iris on / off for example) . . . and all to no avail. The pic does make the trail of blur look more blue than it does when looking at the projected image. This blurring looks white / gray when looking by eye.

Please let me know what you notice with your 6010, since the optics are identical. I suspect that my lens is likely out by a bit, since when I adjust the pic size (zooming), the bluing appears to shift to either above or to the L. or R. of the text. I might be wrong, but this looks more like an optical thing than an electronics problem.

Thanks for offering to have a look at your unit tonight. I'd be interested to know if you also see this blooming effect.

Ian
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post #2308 of 3041
8/9/12 at 2:53pm
White blooming on text issue update:

The pic I attached to my earlier post I also sent to Epson. I spoke to their service dept. by phone, and the person I spoke with was very helpful. He was able to show someone in another dept. the pic with the description of the softness / blooming -- and they immediately recognized this as an issue with the unit.

It's rare to find a company that takes pride in their product and wants to remedy an issue.

Ian
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post #2309 of 3041
8/9/12 at 6:31pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by kaotikr1 View Post

We should hear some news in the next month or so. CEDIA takes place early next month and lots of information comes out around then. I don't know if we will see a big improvement on something like the 6010, but if your build is a month or so out, go ahead and wait.

Im leaning that way - thanks for the input...

Now if I could only get this tile contractor to finish up the bathroom. rolleyes.gif
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post #2310 of 3041
8/9/12 at 7:32pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by wnielsenbb View Post

I suspect there is a fan issue here.

I don't believe its a fan issue. The fan turns on at normal speed when the projector powers up with the indicator light flashing blue. After a couple minutes of flashing blue light and the bulb not turning on, the projector goes into standby mode (lens cover retracts), lamp light flashes red and the fan goes into high gear mode for about 2-3 minutes then shuts off. The lamp light continues to flash red which I can then turn off by pushing the power button. I attempted the unplugging/plugging power cycle back solution (several times) and the removal/reseating lamp solution to no avail. I even visually inspected the bulb+casing (after removing) for any physical anomalies (cracks, scorch marks) but found nothing. Its looking more and more like a failed bulb in my case. Just wondering how many 5010 owners out there had their original lamp fail at less than 1,000 hours use? frown.gif
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