Official Epson PowerLite Home Cinema 5010 / 6010 thread - Page 84

Cool - just ordered 6 pairs!

Yes, it is a 5010e.

I have decided that the way to be sure I am playing 3D content, and not 2D-3D conversion, is to have conversion turned off in the menu. Then when I select 3D on the startup of the DVD, and it still plays in 2D, I press the 2D-3D button, and it starts playing 3D.

What I"m unsure of is what it is playing if I do that and the 2D-3D conversion capability is turned on.

I have strongly been considering the Epson 5010, though was in a store today and they offered the Panasonic AE7000U for $2329 including a free bulb. For anyone that considered the Panny before buying the 5010, would you jump on this deal or is the 5010 just totally worth it. The better customer service, better blacks and cheaper bulbs sound very tempting with the Epson. And the 5020 sounds like it could be the perfect mix for an all-around projector.

I'd go with Coderguy that responded to your post in another thread for the Epson, I think most of the issues with the Pana have been worked out, but there are still some reports of "flickering" that I'd be wary of. If your thinking of 3D, brighter is better and the Epson is nice in that regard. If your worried about $300 difference, then wait a couple months for the 5020 and see if the price drops. And it looks like the 5020 with have some nice improvements coming. http://www.projectorreviews.com/blog/2012/08/31/epson-home-cinema-5020-projector-whats-even-better/

If it's receiving a 3D data stream, then it would detect and display that data stream. You should be able to tell when watching a good 3D movie, from a quasi 2D to 3D conversion to test it. I leave the 2d/3d conversion setting off, as it's not very good imho with just some added depth cues for the most part.

That is what I expect, but I find that even though I select 3D on the 3D/2D selection when I first start up a move, it does not play 3D automatically. I found that I have to press the 2D/3D button for it to play. And I can only be certain that it is playing a 3D stream is if I turn off the conversion capability. That doesn't mean it is not playing the 3D stream, it just means I don't know that it is.

I have turned it off as well. From what I see, even playing true 3D, most of the time it is depth, not pop-out, which is fine. And that being said, the conversion of 2D is of course totally depth, and I find it actually to be relatively good. Haven't watched enough true 3D yet to tell the difference in depth between conversions and 3D streams.

So, I actually think that the conversion is fine, and does add an image enhancement. But, I don't particularly want to watch all TV with the bulky glasses on. (Using Monster glasses).

The excitement of getting a projector was probably shadowing my judgement. The Panasonic AE7000U looks like a great projector and with a free bulb for $2329 it feels hard to pass up. Then again I checked out the Panasonic forum and it looks like it's the bulb that's causing the flicker issues, so that free bulb might just be worthless since I'll get double the life from an Epson. I'll jump back into waiting mode as I eagerly await the arrival of the 5020. Hopefully I'll be back posting here in a few months with a new Epson.
Edited by MovieMonkey - 9/22/12 at 3:43pm

Do you have 3D set to "auto" in the menu settings? That should detect the 3D stream and start the projector displaying 3D content once the blu-ray is loaded and playing. Not sure if that's the case with all 3D formats, as I've only used normal 3D content on mine. Side by side, or top/bottom formats might not be supported for the "auto" setting as I understand the manual.

Hi guys hopefully you can help me , its been a hell of a weekend.

I recently got the upgrade bug for something better than my Mitsubishi hc3800. I figured lets try 3d , no sense in trying to fight the technology and i was a bit curious. I settled on Epson hc3010 mounted in my blacked out theater room on a 106" screen 3 days ago.

I was less than impressed. I only had hbo and a couple ps3 games for 3d reference but I did not like what I was seeing. Still intrigued but thinking the tech is still too young. Then I started on my 2d content and instantly realized the display was way too bright for my room - uncomfortably so. Black levels were blah and the pixels were visibly rough and jaggy - (I'm missing my dlp).

Then I thought if I'm going to upgrade , why not UPGRADE!!??

I swapped out for the 5010 yesterday and was instantly sold on 3d. WOW!!! Even the wife was impressed and she has stated she doesn't like 3d in theaters (or in general for that matter). I've never watched a 3d film at the plex, but she said it was better. This from a person that does not understand my A/V obsession.

Black levels are off the charts. Is this what I've been missing?

Oh yea - my problem. Blues, Reds, Greens seem to be severely over-saturated. This is verified with the clipping pattern on the Spears & Munsil calibration disc. I can bring red in line but not green and blue. To make matters worse when I try to alter green and blue they seem to change the overall tint of the screen. I made my adjustments by turning "R,G,B" brightness controls down. Am I making the wrong adjustments? My skin tones are suffering a bit for the saturation as well.

Can anyone with the S&M disc verify they had this issue out of the box or did I get a dud?

Thanks

Yes, it is set to auto. I did play around with side by side and top/bottom, and neither are supported over wireless HDMI.

You didn't mention which "mode" your were working with, but dynamic and cinema have both been reported by some reviewers as being over saturated. In Art's review, http://www.projectorreviews.com/epson/home-cinema-5010/performance.php they had contact with Epson and discussed the best mode to work with, being "natural". Check out their setting/calibration pages and see if that applies to your situation?

yep, much better blacks, and I agree with your wife, the 3D is noticeably better than at the theater.

I was using cinema..natural is a tad better, But the green channel stays clipped

What is the largest lower gain screen anyone is using with the 6010 and acheiving good results?? I am getting ready to start my theater room, but it is large and I intend to use a really large screen ( somewhere around 14 or 15' wide scope. I don't think I will have the budget to spend on something like a good 3chip dlp, and don't want to spend $15k to get half way there. If the epson will put out enough light and look really good doign it on a screen that size for a couple of years, I would be psyched!

according to the calculator at http://www.projectorcentral.com/Epson-PowerLite_Home_Cinema_5010-projection-calculator-pro.htm

with a 15' wide screen you are talking 207" diag (for 16x9) Unless you are using a lens, this is the number you need to use to check brightness. You would need 1.5 gain to get 14fl brightness with the shortest throw distance (20 feet) I am sure that uses the advertised brightness, so I would go with more gain myself.

You should come over to DIY screens and talk to us I personally have been there and done that with a 16 foot by 9 foot screen getting hit by just 700 lumens. You can be certain that the 5010 will easily match the performance of a JVC RS 2.

Interested? You should be! With a screen that ties and also with it being a relatively high gain surface, if you do it yourself will save literally hundreds and hundreds of dollars.

Scratch that last remark, I really meant to say thousands of dollars! Sorry.... My bad.

MMan

I had a sales guy trying to give me a hard sell on an Epson 5010 and he was offering a decent deal. Will the new auto iris in 3D movies be really worth the extra cost? Or are the blacks totally acceptable when viewing a movie in 3D on the 5010 in a cave?

No auto iris in 3d does give up some black level, but its still exceptional considering the other video phile compromises being made for watching 3d to begin with. That said, the full open iris black level is so good, having the ability to close it is just an added bonus.

I too am in same boat..Already booked 5010 for buying while 5020 is so near! Buyers remorse is eating me up..

If I could get the dealer down below $2000 for the 5010, that would be great. Then again the possible reduced lag of the 5020 would be great for gaming. And dynamic controls in 3D can't hurt.

Please elaborate more on videophile compromises made while watching 3d besides black levels.
I am still not out of Buyer's remorse. My 5010 will be reaching me within a week.

I'm afraid that the darker scenes will be even darker with the working Iris in 3D
That's what the Iris does and what normally gives the picture more dept (2D).
Problem is, that my TW9000W is just bright enough to fill up my 120"screen in 3D, and at this point it is also very easy on the eyes.
I calibrated my projector in 3D, but it must not be dimmer because that will make my eyes tired.

Epson did not added a brighter lamp in the TW9100/6020/5020, and using the Iris for 3D will probable make the darker scenes too dark on that same sized screen.

Projecting on a 100"screen, the working Iris will give a much more dynamic 3D image of course.

FI in 3D would be awesome. Panasonic's motion compensation is even better.

Color accuracy, image detail, to name a couple. I think animation and CGI are the best uses, other wise I haven't seen live action that didn't look cheezy.

I am having an issue with the HDMI cable on the side that attaches to the projector. It seems to not have a great connection. If I wiggle it just a bit, the signal goes in and out. This also happens during scenes with heavy bass, which cause the HDMI to drop out. I am using the Epson supplied plastic bracket that is supposed hold the cable in place, but it's just not doing the job. I was thinking of using a locking HDMI cable (port saver from monoprice: http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=104&cp_id=10419&cs_id=1041913&p_id=8062&seq=1&format=2) or an HDMI lock, similar to http://www.blueechosolutions.com/. The problem is that on the 5010, the HDMI screw needed for the lock is half covered by plastic.

Please see picture:

I was thinking of melting a small piece of the plastic off, to get to the screw, using a hot screw driver or some other metal object. Somehow melting things on the 2.5k projector seems a bit risky. Does anyone have any thoughts or experiences they would be willing to share on this?

Thanks,
Sam

Something is ENGINEERING WRONG.

No One has had a problem like this - YOU ARE #1

Do you mean nobody has the screw covered, or nobody has HDMI connection problems? It might be my cable, but since it has already been run, I am trying to find some ways to secure it really well.

NO ONE has had HDMI connection problems

Is the lag on the 5010 a known issue that prevents it from being usable as a gaming projector?

Thanks for your responses! I myself will be using 5010 on a 120" screen with Sony PS3 glasses. By your responses, it seems that in my case, 3D picture will never be "too bright" for me. So dynamic iris in 3D feature of 5020 will not be very useful for me. This makes me feel better about buying 5010 :-)