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Official Epson PowerLite Home Cinema 5010 / 6010 thread - Page 86

post #2551 of 3038
10/7/12 at 3:49pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by shiseido View Post

im very sorry but im trying to do it (and read svereal posts) but i cant find what i need to obtain, per example, in the red, i need to put the yellow squares only with yellow bars, no red or green???? and in the blue, i need to put the lines all in white, with no blue or red? sorry but i cant find a way to find what i need to obtain....

I don't use the yellow crosshair in my adjustments as it's not easy to see. I just watch the line of color that I'm currently moving into position. Start with moving red, and move it into position onto the green/blue lines. Then choose the blue color and move those lines onto the red/green lines. Readjust each separate color, as necessary, to get all the colors to overly each other and produce a white color line.
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post #2552 of 3038
10/8/12 at 10:10am
thanks mate, so im doing it well oh and in my case, its easyer to calibrate the yellow square, than the white lines....smile.gif
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post #2553 of 3038
10/8/12 at 11:33pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lebronze View Post

My Epson 5010 will not start up. After pressing the power button, the blue LED starts to blink, the initial fan starts, but then nothing else happens after 10+ minutes. I have left it unplugged for a few hours, plugged it back in, but with no luck starting it up.
It worked fine last night, no issues whatsoever. Very strange, and aggravating.

I had the same problem - Epson said to send it for service, but it started working after I moved it to position the backup projector, and it's been fine since. Given my experience I'd assume it's something mechanical with the shutter or lens, you could try moving it about as well ( you are going to have to if you are going to box it to send back for service anyway.)
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post #2554 of 3038
10/10/12 at 6:58am
I have the Epson 5010 and it has been working well for the last 3 months. I usually watch a movie or two each night, so no problems with daily use. Total lamp hours were around 400.

Last night I tried to start it up and no-go. Fan started and stayed on but nothing else. Just a flashing blue light while the fan continued to run. Waited for 30 minutes to see if it would go into auto-shutdown but never did. I will play with it some more tonight but after reading the last few pages on this thread, it appears that mine may not be a rare anomaly.

I will go through the motions of re-seating the lamp, shifting the projector, and, if necessary, order a new lamp.

If anyone else has had startup issues and found little tricks to get it started up again, let me know!
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post #2555 of 3038
10/10/12 at 2:55pm
A few times I had to pull the plug on mine. Wait a few seconds and plug it back in and it would work fine.
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post #2556 of 3038
10/11/12 at 5:33am
Just an FYI that I complained when I purchased my 6010 that the lens cover was way too noisy when opening and closing, well I just changed my bulb and it is a lot quieter now, like half the dbs. My projector is ceiling mounted, don't know what I could have done to help the situation but I'm happy.
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post #2557 of 3038
10/11/12 at 6:56am
I have around 580 hours on the lamp, and now the brightnes dropped halfway.
My Normal mode is less bright than how my Ecomode was before.
If that's the way Epson can crank out 5000 hours out of the lamp, I rather have the full brightness for 1000 hours.
I can not live with this so I already want to buy a new bulb.after 580 hours.
What is the point of 5000 hours bulb-life.
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post #2558 of 3038
10/11/12 at 7:11am
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Matthieu View Post

I have around 580 hours on the lamp, and now the brightnes dropped halfway.
My Normal mode is less bright than how my Ecomode was before.
If that's the way Epson can crank out 5000 hours out of the lamp, I rather have the full brightness for 1000 hours.
I can not live with this so I already want to buy a new bulb.after 580 hours.
What is the point of 5000 hours bulb-life.
How were you able determine that the brightness dropped in half?
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post #2559 of 3038
10/11/12 at 7:20am
I messured almost 20fL with my last calibration, and this time 14fL.
So it's not half but it's a lot that happened too suddenly.
Visually it looks like it dropped halfway tho.
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post #2560 of 3038
10/11/12 at 7:54am
How do you measure the FL? is there a meter/tool that you can buy?
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post #2561 of 3038
10/11/12 at 9:08am
I use an Eye One Pro G2 and CalMAN 5.
If you want a hobby, you can buy cheaper solutions of course
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post #2562 of 3038
10/11/12 at 12:33pm
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Matthieu View Post

I messured almost 20fL with my last calibration, and this time 14fL.
So it's not half but it's a lot that happened too suddenly.
Visually it looks like it dropped halfway tho.
Wow.
I would contact Epson support and ask if you can get a lamp replacement because the picture quality is degraded significantly due to the excessive bulb diming over a short period of time.
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post #2563 of 3038
10/12/12 at 8:49am
Quote:
Originally Posted by wnielsenbb View Post

A few times I had to pull the plug on mine. Wait a few seconds and plug it back in and it would work fine.

Pulled plug, reset, reseat, all the things I tried didn't work for me. I ended up calling EPSON customer service. They are sending me a replacement. Good customer service, but iffy product. Not sure if I should stick with this or flee!
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post #2564 of 3038
10/12/12 at 9:06am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Matthieu View Post

I messured almost 20fL with my last calibration, and this time 14fL.
So it's not half but it's a lot that happened too suddenly.
Visually it looks like it dropped halfway tho.

With my older Epson, 8500ub, I had twice the early bulb dimming issue. Epson support said that this was not normal and both times sent me a new bulb. The bulbs died around 800 hours. The newest bulb I have now is starting to dim but it's coming up on 2 000 hours.

So basically one bulb lasted 3600 hours. Not bad!
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post #2565 of 3038
10/12/12 at 10:59am
Making projectors in China was a huge mistake I believe.

Bulbs are random. In my 6 years of projection experience I have seen their lives vary dramatically. I do know the aftermarket ones suck though. I had almost 5k hours on my panny 2000 bulb (rated at 3k hours) and the new aftermarket replacement bulb was actually dimmer. But even the factory ones vary. One was pretty dim at 1500 hours.
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post #2566 of 3038
10/12/12 at 12:55pm
Interesting.
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post #2567 of 3038
10/12/12 at 3:19pm
I have a Sammy DLP from 2006. In its early years it was calibrated for dark room viewing (Movies and video games). Not TV. When I started building the theater it saw a little less action. 2 1/2 years ago I mounted a front projector and it got retired to family room duty. The thing is on all day many times I go down only to see it watching itself.

The thing is still on its original bulb - Most likely due to avoid torch modes and settings. I suspect the rated lamp hours are quite different for regular 3d viewing. I can even look at the screen with my glasses raised.
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post #2568 of 3038
10/12/12 at 9:31pm
Any suggestions on where to purchase decent bulbs? I need to get a backup.
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post #2569 of 3038
10/13/12 at 9:16am
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ewingr View Post

Any suggestions on where to purchase decent bulbs? I need to get a backup.
Check with the AVS store or Projector People.
Make sure to get an actual Epson bulb and not an aftermarket knock off.
You're looking at around $250-300 for an Epson bulb.
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post #2570 of 3038
10/15/12 at 4:09am
I am getting my 5010 tomorrow. I will be using it in a dark room (Not bat-cave though) on a 120" matte-white screen for movies. Please let me know what initial settings to use and how long to wait for self-calibration. Is there something I should test on this projector right away?
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post #2571 of 3038
10/15/12 at 5:43am
First steps.
-Align the projector on your screen.
Make sure it is strait with your screen precisely, and use lens shift to place the picture right.
- Focus,... it will be slightly out of focus after 30 minutes or so, which means that you'll have to do the final focus at least after 30 minutes again.
_Use Natural Mode, which is a very good accurate Mode with a streat Gamma.
- Check your firmware,... if it's lower than 104 do the Update all the way to 106.
- Than Panel Alignment, which (If needed) will make your picture a lot more sharper.
- Turn On Super White.

- Turn Off the Iris and Frame Interpolation.
- At least do the DVE Calibration for Brightness and Contrast to get the best out of your Black and White.
- Superresolution on 2, cause 3 is too much as you can see on a sharpness pattern the white lines will start and degrees your signal so you'll loose the real 1080 info)
- Turn On the Iris (Fast for me) and Frame Interpolation (Low for me)
*With the latest (104 or 106) firmware it works perfect that way.
--- Watch a few Movies.---
- After 10 Hours of watching you can do the real calibration, that will keep you going till 200 Hours or so.
- Than you'll want to re-calibrate the projector for the next 1000 Hours or so.

Good Luck.
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post #2572 of 3038
10/15/12 at 7:46am
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by wnielsenbb

I have a new issue. I turned my 5010 on and it made nasty noises but wouldn't turn on. I got a ladder and when I got back the loud fan noise was on, then it just stopped. I noticed the lens cover was still shut, so I gently slid it open. Then I saw a red light blinking. I unplugged it for a few seconds and plugged it back in and it turned on. It seems to be working now. I had it take an extra long time to start up before. Wonder if I have a bad lens cover. Off to find the service menu I guess.
Quote:
Originally Posted by 42Plasmaman View Post


Where is this "red light blinking" located?

On the case?


*Mine did this and it was a bad bulb:


Turn on projector

Fan in high mode

Lens cover opens

Fan is now in very high mode.

No light output

Lamp led on projector flashes red(manual indicates possible bad lamp)

Few minutes later, lens cover closes and projector shuts off.


*I unplugged it for about 5 minutes and powered back on and it worked normally for another 5 on/off cycles and it did it again.



I called Epson and had them send me a replacement lamp.

No issues since lamp was replaced.

Bulb replaced Feb.2012
Issue appeared to be resolved.
Then it happened again this weekend.

Fixed it by letting the projector power down, turn off power(rocker switch on back), wait 5 minutes then turn back on.

I'm starting to suspect that it might have something to do with the room temp. Like the bulb can't get up to operating temp so the projector shuts down.
I did not have this issue once(from spring through summer).
Now the temps are dropping and my room is around 50-60 and the issue is starting back up.

*Not cold enough for me to turn on the heat yet.
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post #2573 of 3038
10/15/12 at 10:35am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Matthieu View Post

First steps.
-Align the projector on your screen.
Make sure it is strait with your screen precisely, and use lens shift to place the picture right.
- Focus,... it will be slightly out of focus after 30 minutes or so, which means that you'll have to do the final focus at least after 30 minutes again.
_Use Natural Mode, which is a very good accurate Mode with a streat Gamma.
- Check your firmware,... if it's lower than 104 do the Update all the way to 106.
- Than Panel Alignment, which (If needed) will make your picture a lot more sharper.
- Turn On Super White.
- Turn Off the Iris and Frame Interpolation.
- At least do the DVE Calibration for Brightness and Contrast to get the best out of your Black and White.
- Superresolution on 2, cause 3 is too much as you can see on a sharpness pattern the white lines will start and degrees your signal so you'll loose the real 1080 info)
- Turn On the Iris (Fast for me) and Frame Interpolation (Low for me)
*With the latest (104 or 106) firmware it works perfect that way.
--- Watch a few Movies.---
- After 10 Hours of watching you can do the real calibration, that will keep you going till 200 Hours or so.
- Than you'll want to re-calibrate the projector for the next 1000 Hours or so.
Good Luck.

Really grateful for all the information! I will be following all the tips maybe except firmware update. I am a bit nervous about it and afraid I might brick my projector. Maybe when I have gained enough confidence after 1-2 months of usage, I might go for it.
One more thing - I already have Darbee Vision Darblet. As per advise of forum members, I will use it at around 50% HD setting with 5010. In that case, should I keep SuperResolution turned off?
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post #2574 of 3038
10/15/12 at 2:09pm
I'm not formiliar with this device, but as the pictures showes,... it looks like a sharpening device.
If it puts extra lines around existing information, than it overides the info beside it, which degrees the actual signal.
It may look a lot sharper, but with less detail.
Like the Disney cartoons DVD vss Blu-Ray.
A few DVD's I've seen compared to the Blu-Ray looked sharper, with a lot of edge sharpening, but it does not have the actual details that Blu-Ray delivers.
Also Blu-Ray has a larger colorspace compared to DVD, but the DVD's show harder colors, which can be poping to catch the eye.
Still the higher bitrate on Blu-Ray give a truer to live color, but maybe less excessively, so less eye catching.

I don't know the device, so I have to read myself into it, but I'm sceptical ye know. wink.gif

With Super Resolution on 2 you've reached the border, while this device maybe go over that.
If that's true, and you like that, than you can also go with SR on 5. wink.gif
That pops too.
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post #2575 of 3038
10/15/12 at 10:51pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Matthieu View Post

I'm not formiliar with this device, but as the pictures showes,... it looks like a sharpening device.
If it puts extra lines around existing information, than it overides the info beside it, which degrees the actual signal.
It may look a lot sharper, but with less detail.
Like the Disney cartoons DVD vss Blu-Ray.
A few DVD's I've seen compared to the Blu-Ray looked sharper, with a lot of edge sharpening, but it does not have the actual details that Blu-Ray delivers.
Also Blu-Ray has a larger colorspace compared to DVD, but the DVD's show harder colors, which can be poping to catch the eye.
Still the higher bitrate on Blu-Ray give a truer to live color, but maybe less excessively, so less eye catching.
I don't know the device, so I have to read myself into it, but I'm sceptical ye know. wink.gif
With Super Resolution on 2 you've reached the border, while this device maybe go over that.
If that's true, and you like that, than you can also go with SR on 5. wink.gif
That pops too.
Thanks! I agree that any image enhancer should not sacrifice details. I will experiment with the Darblet/SuperResolution settings and let know what seems best to me.
If possible, please elaborate on what issues does upgrading the firmware solves over default factory firmware. Are there any negative results also reported after firmware update?
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post #2576 of 3038
10/15/12 at 11:16pm
After installing 104 the pans are smoother and specially 3D.
That will even improve after 106.
Actually 105 but that had a bug which was solved in 106.

106 we received by a costumor here on the forum.
104 is the origenal Update that Epson gave free to download and install.

Please let us know your findings with this device of yours, compared to SR2?
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post #2577 of 3038
10/19/12 at 1:28am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Matthieu View Post

After installing 104 the pans are smoother and specially 3D.
That will even improve after 106.
Actually 105 but that had a bug which was solved in 106.
106 we received by a costumor here on the forum.
104 is the origenal Update that Epson gave free to download and install.

Please let us know your findings with this device of yours, compared to SR2?

My 5010 has arrived! Still to go through the settings...

I am yet to decide whether the signal to be fed to projector should be 1080p@60Hz or 1080p@24Hz. I will be playing 23.976 fps movies 99% of the time so its natural to assume that I should feed 1080p@24Hz signal to projector, but I am not yet convinced. My question is - What is "display" output frequency of 5010? Is it always same as input frequency (I doubt that)? I think it must be some fixed frequency like 60Hz or 120Hz. So its pointless to feed the projector 24fps signal unless its certain that 3:2 pulldown will be better handled by projector rather than media player. Am I mistaken?

Please advise!
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post #2578 of 3038
10/19/12 at 3:16am
I wondered the same thing.
My Oppo 93EU for now is on 1080 24P Automatic, but I'm also wondering if the Oppo would be better in upscaling than the projector.
Not yet really looked to find the difference.
Also not sure if it will be that visible at once, maybe after experience it for a while.
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post #2579 of 3038
10/19/12 at 12:47pm
Hi,

I recently got my 5010 and trying out its all possible settings these days.
I tried watching Half-SBS 3D mkv today. While 3D was being displayed correctly, I saw several picture drop-outs. By "picture dropout" I mean - Screen became blank (black) for 1-2 seconds while audio kept playing. At one point these dropouts became so frequent that I eventually had to give up and shut the movie.
My question - Is this normal for 3D playback on 5010 or does this indicate a malfunction in my unit?
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post #2580 of 3038
10/19/12 at 12:52pm
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by xplorar View Post

Hi,
I recently got my 5010 and trying out its all possible settings these days.
I tried watching Half-SBS 3D mkv today. While 3D was being displayed correctly, I saw several picture drop-outs. By "picture dropout" I mean - Screen became blank (black) for 1-2 seconds while audio kept playing. At one point these dropouts became so frequent that I eventually had to give up and shut the movie.
My question - Is this normal for 3D playback on 5010 or does this indicate a malfunction in my unit?
3D requires more bandwidth and your HDMI cables must be in good working condition.
Have you had this issue with a blu-ray 3D movie?
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