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Official Epson PowerLite Home Cinema 5010 / 6010 thread - Page 91

post #2701 of 3333
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by James A. McGahee View Post

I have had for some time the InFocus 76. It has served me well but I am anxious to move up to a new & better but not too expensive projector.
Has anyone actually compared or seen the IN76 vs. the new Epson 5010/6010. I'm concerned that its 2D might not be as good as the IN76. I've read good things here and elsewhere that the Epson's 3D is outstanding but 2D not so much. If its 2D is at lease as good as the IN76 I'm thinking of making the change. Any opinions?
Thanks!!
The picture may look a little soft and not as sharp coming from DLP to LCD but getting a unit with good convergence can help over come this issue.
I've also installed a Darbee that helps with making the picture sharper with perceived increase in contrast.

The 5010 will also be quieter running in ECO mode when compared to any DLP projector.
post #2702 of 3333
Thanks for your comments 42Plasmaman and teeger.
The IN76 is a 720p projector and I like the sharpness of the image although I would guess a new 1080p LCD would at least match the IN76 sharpness. I really don't want to take a step back in any area from what I've got. I'm weird that way.
I'm not sure I understand "getting a unit with good convergence". Do you mean the Epson projectors are not consistent from unit to unit, that I might need an outboard video processor, or perhaps I should look at a different brand?
Thanks for your input. Your comments so far a smart and very helpful.smile.gif
By the way, how do you get a different text color other than blue? It really bugs my eyes.
post #2703 of 3333
Quote:
Originally Posted by James A. McGahee View Post

Thanks for your comments 42Plasmaman and teeger.
The IN76 is a 720p projector and I like the sharpness of the image although I would guess a new 1080p LCD would at least match the IN76 sharpness. I really don't want to take a step back in any area from what I've got. I'm weird that way.
I'm not sure I understand "getting a unit with good convergence". Do you mean the Epson projectors are not consistent from unit to unit, that I might need an outboard video processor, or perhaps I should look at a different brand?
Thanks for your input. Your comments so far a smart and very helpful.smile.gif
By the way, how do you get a different text color other than blue? It really bugs my eyes.

You won't need an outboard processor, but you'd be very lucky to get one that has perfect convergence. Just the nature of lcd, however even with the the 1/2 pixel off in red, on my 6010, it's looks just fine. The pj does have a convergence adjustment capability, that can help tighten it up too.

[ COLOR=green][ SIZE=4]your text here[/SIZE][/COLOR] Remove the spaces to see the color effect.

And as Plasman mentioned, the Darbee is a nice addition. Love mine.
post #2704 of 3333
Hello,

I'm about 30 hours in with my new Epson 5020UB (which replaced an Epson 8100) and I'm finding that the picture quality is a bit soft. This was the case from the beginning. I found that the 8100 had a crisper picture.

My equipment: (All devices connected via HDMI to the inputs on my AV receiver with one HDMI cable to my epson projector)

Denon AVR-3313ci
Oppo BDP-103 (have latest official release of firmware 1018)
Epson 5020UB
PS3 Slim
Xfinity DVR
Directv DVR
AppleTV
Dell HTPC

Do I need to calibrate, do I have a defective unit?

Any advice or insight will be greatly appreciated!!

Thanks in advance for your help!!
Edited by postcorner - 12/8/12 at 7:35am
post #2705 of 3333
Calibration can make a huge difference.
The Epson looks very good when you just install it and watch Natural mode.
Always use AT LEAST a DVE Disk or another, to tweak the projector.

But Calibration gets the best out of your projector.
Only Greyscale adjustment makes the picture look much MUCH better.
CMS for a better balance of the colors.
Also Panel Allignment gives the picture that much more snap on sharpness.

Pixel Allignment is something you can do yourself.
You can turn it Off and On to see the difference, and with mine it was very visible.

Watching a Non calibrated mode after a amount of hours in use, it looks very fussy to compared to a calibrated one.
Edited by Matthieu - 12/8/12 at 9:19am
post #2706 of 3333
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by James A. McGahee View Post

Thanks for your comments 42Plasmaman and teeger.
The IN76 is a 720p projector and I like the sharpness of the image although I would guess a new 1080p LCD would at least match the IN76 sharpness. I really don't want to take a step back in any area from what I've got. I'm weird that way.
I'm not sure I understand "getting a unit with good convergence". Do you mean the Epson projectors are not consistent from unit to unit, that I might need an outboard video processor, or perhaps I should look at a different brand?
Thanks for your input. Your comments so far a smart and very helpful.smile.gif
By the way, how do you get a different text color other than blue? It really bugs my eyes.
All 3 panel LCD projectors will usually not be perfect but if they are within 1/2 a pixel or less, the sharpness/convergence is good.

The Epson, JVC and other brands do have pixel alignment but these are digital and not actually moving a panel.

I'd suggest downloading the AVS calibration disc and test convergence using the dot pattern.
Then use text to focus your screen.
You can do that on your current projector now and see if you have any chromatic aberration that will look like a convergence issue. Even single chip DLP is not perfect.

http://www.avsforum.com/t/948496/avs-hd-709-blu-ray-mp4-calibration
post #2707 of 3333
Quote:
Originally Posted by Matthieu View Post

Calibration can make a huge difference.
The Epson looks very good when you just install it and watch Natural mode.
Always use AT LEAST a DVE Disk or another, to tweak the projector.
But Calibration gets the best out of your projector.
Only Greyscale adjustment makes the picture look much MUCH better.
CMS for a better balance of the colors.
Also Panel Allignment gives the picture that much more snap on sharpness.
Pixel Allignment is something you can do yourself.
You can turn it Off and On to see the difference, and with mine it was very visible.
Watching a Non calibrated mode after a amount of hours in use, it looks very fussy to compared to a calibrated one.

Matthieu, thanks very much for the response, greatly appreciated!! I know very little about calibration. I've played around with the different settings, i.e. contrast, brightness, sharpness, etc. etc. but these settings have not helped as far as picture quality/crispness or resolution.

Do I need a professional to do this or is this something I can do myself??? Is it simply getting the optimum settings and programming them into the projector, or do I need special discs and/or special equipment to achieve the proper calibration?

Can you point me in the right direction on what I need to do to get my unit calibrated? Is there a step by step guide on how to do this and where to get the calibration discs and/or equipment?

Any help would appreciated!!!

Thanks!!
post #2708 of 3333
It seems that you don't have any experience with calibration.
Changing the settings without knowing what you're doing, can be very bad for the picture.
You need to read something about it, or buy a disk with a good explanation on it.
If I were you, I would reset the settings and keep using Natural Mode for now, cause that is the best Mode out of the box.

Than buy a DVE Blu-Ray disk.
(Digital Video Essentials.)
There is a work through on how to do it and why it's needed.
That is the least you need to do with a projector or TV.
You will use this disk for a long time.

You can download the AVS Pattern disk as well, but there is no explanetion on that.
Although,... I'm not really sure of that,... I only used the patterns on it.
Also, than you don't have the Blue-filter you need, so you have to get that somewhere else too.
DVE comes with that.

After a 200 hours or so, you can go to a proffessional for an ISF calibration, that really makes your projector shine at it's best, but that will cost you a few bucks.
I say after 200 bulb hours or so, cause that calibration will less for around 400 hours after that, because the bulb is stable by than.
A proffessional calibrateur is using equipment for that calibration.

Your eyes will try to compensate the bad colors on your display.
If the picture is too green,... after 5 minutes your eyes are used to that.
A meter will notice this, even in the smallest degree
But it is not only too green or Red.
It is important that the colors are in balance, from Black to White.
That will make the picture look like you are watching real life.
It gives your display that more snap.

Than CMS (Color management System) calibration will give true to life colors.
Skintones are real, like how it suppose to be.
Not Red or Pink skin.

Hollywood is spending a lot of money to getr your movie that good.
It would be nice to have a Flatpanel or Projector that shows that movie how it was ment to be.
That is why ISF-Calibration comes to life.

This Topic holds a lot of information, on Panel Alignment as well,... how to open it and what to do.
Also firmware check and update. ( there's another Topic for that as well.)
It will be too much to tell you how to calibrate, but if you like to learn and want to spend some money on equipment and software, you have also:
Calibration for Dummies.
But it will take a lot of your time, I can tell you that.

Buying a projector from a company that also give you calibration service would be very helpfull in the future.
Specially when you like the calibrated result.
I sell projectors with calibration service, when you buy the projector.
Than a re-calibration after 200 hours.
Than when the bulb reach 600, 1000 hours and when buying a new bulb by me, for a projector bought by us
We also clean the filters everytime.
This way your projector is been taking care of.
So yes,... you pay more,... but you're always watching at a great picture.
Edited by Matthieu - 12/9/12 at 9:56am
post #2709 of 3333
Wow, thanks very much for the very detailed write-up, much appreciated!!

I think I will start with a calibration disc. Which one do you recommend? I see a Disney WOW and DVE. Which is better? Also, where do I find a professional calibrator should I decide on going this route? And, do you have an idea on cost?

Thanks in advance for your help!
post #2710 of 3333
DVE. that Blu-Ray I know and the explanation is clear.

Cost,... well if they bring the projector to me, I ask around €125
If I have to do a firmware upgrade and Panel Allignment I ask more.
Buying the projector by me, I do that for free of course.
But I do open the panel allignment for you, so you can do it yourself..
The newer projectors from Epson has that open already.

I don't know where you live, but their are a few of good calibrators here on the Forum as well.
Probably one nearby.
I live in the Netherlands.
post #2711 of 3333
Quote:
Originally Posted by postcorner View Post

Wow, thanks very much for the very detailed write-up, much appreciated!!
I think I will start with a calibration disc. Which one do you recommend? I see a Disney WOW and DVE. Which is better? Also, where do I find a professional calibrator should I decide on going this route? And, do you have an idea on cost?
Thanks in advance for your help!

If you are willing to learn how to calibrate you can pick up a system for pry around $500.

The benefit to that is you can continue to fine tune as your bulb ages. Paying a professional will make it look great, but as the bulb ages you are going to want to touch up the calibration in order to get the best return on your investment. So if you have some time and want to learn how to calibrate, check out Chromapure or Calman.
post #2712 of 3333
Has anyone had problems with 2D-3D conversion on the Epson 5010/5020? When I have 2D-3D conversion selected, the screen blanks out for 2-3 seconds (similar to selecting the "Blank" button on the remote) and then the video comes back on in a normal display for about 10 seconds. This blanking off and on of the video repeats itself continuously until I turn 2D-3D conversion off. I have no problems with 3D Blu Ray disks.
post #2713 of 3333
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by ie50dennis View Post

Has anyone had problems with 2D-3D conversion on the Epson 5010/5020? When I have 2D-3D conversion selected, the screen blanks out for 2-3 seconds (similar to selecting the "Blank" button on the remote) and then the video comes back on in a normal display for about 10 seconds. This blanking off and on of the video repeats itself continuously until I turn 2D-3D conversion off. I have no problems with 3D Blu Ray disks.
No issues for me.
*I 've only done the 2D-3D conversion on blu-ray, haven't tried DVD.
post #2714 of 3333
Quote:
Originally Posted by ie50dennis View Post

Has anyone had problems with 2D-3D conversion on the Epson 5010/5020? When I have 2D-3D conversion selected, the screen blanks out for 2-3 seconds (similar to selecting the "Blank" button on the remote) and then the video comes back on in a normal display for about 10 seconds. This blanking off and on of the video repeats itself continuously until I turn 2D-3D conversion off. I have no problems with 3D Blu Ray disks.

Sounds suspiciously like hdmi handshaking issues...
post #2715 of 3333
Quote:
Originally Posted by ie50dennis View Post

Has anyone had problems with 2D-3D conversion on the Epson 5010/5020? When I have 2D-3D conversion selected, the screen blanks out for 2-3 seconds (similar to selecting the "Blank" button on the remote) and then the video comes back on in a normal display for about 10 seconds. This blanking off and on of the video repeats itself continuously until I turn 2D-3D conversion off. I have no problems with 3D Blu Ray disks.
I have the exact same problem. But its a non-issue for me because I don't use this feature at all.
post #2716 of 3333
Thread Starter 
btw:
Turn off Deep Color on your blu-ray player. It's not needed and it adds data on the HDMI that's not needed.
post #2717 of 3333
I totally can't get these Monster Max 3D glasses to work with my 5010. I have the IR detector taped directly to the emitter on the right, and I've upgraded the firmware to 1.05(latest), but it just shows the red lights running back and forth - night rider style. I've tried both receivers (got one with each pair of glasses), and both have the same result. Did you guys need to do any special configuration with the receiver joystick to get it to recognize?

Could it have anything to do with the 3D format to SBS rather than Auto? When I put it on auto it says "The current input image / settings do not display in 3D". ...although when I put it in 3D SBS mode it makes that noise and I can see the IR lights appear.

I'm just so sad right now. I promised my wife we could watch Avatar in 3D tonight (she's never seen it), and being pregnant, she'll probably start crying... I also haven't cleaned the bathroom as I promised :/
Edited by mariod505 - 12/21/12 at 3:24pm
post #2718 of 3333
Quote:
Originally Posted by mariod505 View Post

I totally can't get these Monster Max 3D glasses to work with my 5010. I have the IR detector taped directly to the emitter on the right, and I've upgraded the firmware to 1.05(the latest). I've tried both receivers (got one with each), and still no luck. Did you guys need to do any special configuration to get it to recognize? I'm wondering if it's because I set the 3D format to SBS rather than auto??? (when I put it on auto it says "The current input image / settings do not display in 3D". ...although when I put it in 3D SBS mode it makes that noise and I can see the IR lights appear clearly.
....I'm just so sad right now. I promised my wife we could watch Avatar in 3D tonight, and being pregnant, she'll probably start crying... :/

They WORKED out of the BOX.

Do the LIGHTS CHANGE COLOR when in 3D Mode.
post #2719 of 3333
Quote:
Originally Posted by drhankz View Post


They WORKED out of the BOX.
Do the LIGHTS CHANGE COLOR when in 3D Mode.

No, they just keep flashing red back and forth ala Knight Rider. What settings do I need to put on the pj? ...I just set 3D format to SBS. Does that sound right?
post #2720 of 3333
Quote:
Originally Posted by drhankz View Post


They WORKED out of the BOX.
Do the LIGHTS CHANGE COLOR when in 3D Mode.

Just to make sure I'm not retarded; The rectangular thing with the little circle on one side is the IR detector, right? And it'll work when the movie is paused too, correct? I'm just trying to think of anything.... A the moment, I'm just testing with a SBS movie on Youtube.
post #2721 of 3333
Quote:
Originally Posted by mariod505 View Post

No, they just keep flashing red back and forth ala Knight Rider. What settings do I need to put on the pj? ...I just set 3D format to SBS. Does that sound right?

The Scanning RED Lights should all turn onto SOLID GREEN.

No Solid Green --- It is not receiving the 3D Signal.
post #2722 of 3333
Quote:
Originally Posted by drhankz View Post

The Scanning RED Lights should all turn onto SOLID GREEN.
No Solid Green --- It is not receiving the 3D Signal.

Correct. That's what I need help with...
post #2723 of 3333
Quote:
Originally Posted by mariod505 View Post

Correct. That's what I need help with...

I do not TRUST anything that is NOT a 3D Blu-Ray Movie.

NO SBS should be needed with REAL 3D.

My 3D Mode is set to AUTO. I only play 3D Blu-Ray Movies.

I WILL BET IT IS YOUR SOURCE DEVICE NOT SENDING 3D to Projector
Edited by drhankz - 12/21/12 at 3:42pm
post #2724 of 3333
Quote:
Originally Posted by drhankz View Post

I do not TRUST anything that is NOT a 3D Blu-Ray Movie.
NO SBS should be needed with REAL 3D.
My 3D Mode is set to AUTO. I only play 3D Blu-Ray Movies.
I WILL BET IT IS YOUR SOURCE DEVICE NOT SENDING 3D to Projector

I guess it depends on what generates the IR signal... I would have thought putting the pj into SBS mode would cause the pj to generate the IR signal. ...but if it's supposed to come from my source (which is a computer (HD6990 video card) then I'm not sure how to send a native 3D signal over.

...but if I see the IR lights on the right, doesn't that mean it's transmitting an IR signal?
post #2725 of 3333
Quote:
Originally Posted by mariod505 View Post

I guess it depends on what generates the IR signal... I would have thought putting the pj into SBS mode would cause the pj to generate the IR signal. ...but if it's supposed to come from my source (which is a computer (HD6990 video card) then I'm not sure how to send a native 3D signal over.
...but if I see the IR lights on the right, doesn't that mean it's transmitting an IR signal?

Yes if the IR Lights do LIGHT then it is in 3D Mode.

I positioned my IR received only after the PJ was sending an
IR SIGNAL.
post #2726 of 3333
Quote:
Originally Posted by drhankz View Post

Yes if the IR Lights do LIGHT then it is in 3D Mode.
I positioned my IR received only after the PJ was sending an
IR SIGNAL.


So weird then... I can see the 12 red IR lights, and now I taped both IR detectors right up against them and neither of them detect a signal. There's something fundamental I'm missing here... There's no way both of them are broken...
post #2727 of 3333
Set the projector in bright 3D, which is 120Hz.
Maybe the glasses don't recognize the 240 or 480 Hz.
It would be weird cause my Xpand x104 work with all, but youi'll never know.
To be sure,... use a 3D Blu-Ray.

This all should not make any difference, but it is the most standard you can use.
post #2728 of 3333
Quote:
Originally Posted by ie50dennis View Post

Has anyone had problems with 2D-3D conversion on the Epson 5010/5020? When I have 2D-3D conversion selected, the screen blanks out for 2-3 seconds (similar to selecting the "Blank" button on the remote) and then the video comes back on in a normal display for about 10 seconds. This blanking off and on of the video repeats itself continuously until I turn 2D-3D conversion off. I have no problems with 3D Blu Ray disks.

Quote:
Originally Posted by 42Plasmaman View Post

No issues for me.
*I 've only done the 2D-3D conversion on blu-ray, haven't tried DVD.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ngwest36 View Post

Sounds suspiciously like hdmi handshaking issues...

Quote:
Originally Posted by xplorar View Post

I have the exact same problem. But its a non-issue for me because I don't use this feature at all.

Quote:
Originally Posted by 42Plasmaman View Post

btw:
Turn off Deep Color on your blu-ray player. It's not needed and it adds data on the HDMI that's not needed.

UPDATE (12/23/2012):
It appears the video screen blanking when 2D-3D conversion is "ON" (or when viewing DirecTV 3D channels) is related to the Darbee I am using. When I take the Darbee out of the video stream, the blanking goes away.
post #2729 of 3333
Quote:
Originally Posted by ie50dennis View Post

UPDATE (12/23/2012):
It appears the video screen blanking when 2D-3D conversion is "ON" (or when viewing DirecTV 3D channels) is related to the Darbee I am using. When I take the Darbee out of the video stream, the blanking goes away.
Same here
post #2730 of 3333
I've been using the 5010 for a couple of months now and I've found that normal fan mode just looks better than eco, although it is quite a bit louder. Any suggestions on how to tweak eco mode to get a picture close to normal mode? I've also used DVE HD Basics calibration disc, but eco mode still seems a bit dim. I messed around with the RGBCMY levels with the DVE disc and current levels for both normal and eco seem accurate when looking through the color panel. When I check the RGBCMY levels in Dynamic mode for comparison the brightness of each color is extremely high, so I'm guessing I can take Natural mode and make some modifications to that to try and get eco close to normal??

I have a batcave that is about 13x13 and a 92" screen. I use Natural mode with auto iris on fast. Projector is great, but I love the picture of normal vs eco - just don't want the fan noise. Also, I had a free tv calibration from best buy which seemed to be a complete waste of time so I used the DVE disc again after the guy left.

Any ideas?
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