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Official Epson PowerLite Home Cinema 5010 / 6010 thread - Page 23

post #661 of 3037
1/17/12 at 4:55pm
Is there a set of instruction which guide as to weather pixel alignment is required, and if yes how to go about achieving it. Though the specification mentions motorized pixel alignment, there is nothing on the manual in regards to this.

Thanks
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post #662 of 3037
1/17/12 at 5:16pm
I received my new 5010 today which I must say is super quick turn around because I just called yesterday. But Im not sure when I am going to put it up to give you guys any feedback on how the second new model works. My Carada Criterion B/W 134in screen is on the way and tracking says it should be here by thursday so i'll probably wait until the weekend and put them both up at the same time.
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post #663 of 3037
1/17/12 at 5:59pm
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by wickedg8gt View Post

I received my new 5010 today which I must say is super quick turn around because I just called yesterday. But Im not sure when I am going to put it up to give you guys any feedback on how the second new model works. My Carada Criterion B/W 134in screen is on the way and tracking says it should be here by thursday so i'll probably wait until the weekend and put them both up at the same time.

Keep in mind that if you don't send back a projector and they dont receive it within 7 days that you will be charged for the projector.

I'm glad I fired up the replacement because I sent it back because it had the blurring issue no matter the lens shift setting and the convergence wasn't as good either as my own unit.
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post #664 of 3037
1/17/12 at 6:19pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by 42Plasmaman View Post

Keep in mind that if you don't send back a projector and they dont receive it within 7 days that you will be charged for the projector.

I'm glad I fired up the replacement because I sent it back because it had the blurring issue no matter the lens shift setting and the convergence wasn't as good either as my own unit.

I never thought about that. Thank you. Looks like Im going to be using it then to make sure it is ok. I recieved the shipping labels but what else besides the projector and accessories goes with it. I DO NOT want to be charged for a projector I dont have or is broke.
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post #665 of 3037
1/18/12 at 7:21am
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by wickedg8gt View Post

I never thought about that. Thank you. Looks like Im going to be using it then to make sure it is ok. I recieved the shipping labels but what else besides the projector and accessories goes with it. I DO NOT want to be charged for a projector I dont have or is broke.

I left the accessory box alone since my accessories are fine.
Send back a projector, the cover letter inside with details and the box of accessories.

Keep a copy of the shipping & cover letter.
When you drop it off at FedEx, have them scan it and get a receipt.
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post #666 of 3037
1/18/12 at 7:38am
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by pkirangi View Post

Is there a set of instruction which guide as to weather pixel alignment is required, and if yes how to go about achieving it. Though the specification mentions motorized pixel alignment, there is nothing on the manual in regards to this.

Thanks

I'll try to describe it for you.

Note:
It's best to do this when the projector is on it's feet and not ceiling mounted.
Otherwise, if I recall correctly, the arrow/direction buttons are reversed when ceiling mounted.

You should also make the screen size smaller than your screen using the zoom so you can see the entire projected screen with no overscan to the screen borders.
I made the projected screen about an inch smaller around the entire screen than my screen.

1. Access the Extended menu and select LCD alignment.
2. Enable(on) LCD alignment.
3. Select (B)lue or (R)ed to be adjusted. Default is (R)ed.
*Leave the other option at R/B/G

4. Start the alignment.

5. You will be asked to first adjust each corner.
6. When the yellow box is displayed in the corner, make your adjustment using the arrow keys.
*If you are adjusting Red, then only the red pixels will move in the corner.

**If no adjustment is needed, select Enter to move to the next corner.
***Repeat this step for all 4 corners.

7. Once all 4 corners are done, you will now be asked to select a coordinate on the screen.
Once you enter this mode, a yellow square will appear on the screen with no "+" cross hair.

8. Move the box to a location in which requires pixel alignment using the arrow keys.
*If adjusting red, move to a location that requires red pixel adjustment.

9. Once you find a location, select the Enter key.
10. Now there will be a "+" cross hair in the yellow box.
11. Use the arrow keys to move the pixel.
*You should see that the V/H numbers will change from 0 to a positive or negative number depending on which way you adjust.

12. Once you are done adjusting, select Enter.
13. You will now return to the menu which asks if you want to adjust another location on the screen.
14. Press Enter to select another location to adjust and repeat the previous few steps.
Otherwise, select the Exit option to finish the alignment.

You can now choose to adjust the other color(Red or Blue) and repeat the alignment for that specific color.

*There is no adjustment for green.
**You must leave LCD adjustment ON. If you turn it off, the panel will return all adjustments back to default.

Just exit the LCD Alignment menu by selecting Return to keep your adjusted alignment.
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post #667 of 3037
1/18/12 at 8:42am
I did exactly as plasmaman describes and when I start fixing on one corner, it affects convergence in other palces at the same time, Is this normal?
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post #668 of 3037
1/18/12 at 9:58am
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by luismanrara View Post

I did exactly as plasmaman describes and when I start fixing on one corner, it affects convergence in other palces at the same time, Is this normal?

If the entire panel is moving, then yes.

*Since Epson hasn't disclosed what the LCD Alignment does, we are not certain if it's truely moving the panel via a motor or just SW pixel manipulation.
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post #669 of 3037
1/18/12 at 10:09am
Quote:
Originally Posted by 42Plasmaman View Post

If the entire panel is moving, then yes.

*Since Epson hasn't disclosed what the LCD Alignment does, we are not certain if it's truely moving the panel via a motor or just SW pixel manipulation.

How do we know if alignment is needed? I don't see any one color out of line with the others. Can I assume that this means all is good?
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post #670 of 3037
1/18/12 at 10:12am
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by GardenVariety View Post

BTW, I focused the picture last night at the 30 minute mark and it stayed 99% in focus. I checked it after the movie was over and it was just a hair de-focused. I'll check tonight at the 30 minute mark to make sure it's locking into focus like it should. Otherwise, this projector is a very decent upgrade from the 8700UB. It looks much better both in picture and in physical appearance and has the boost in brightness in best mode. It's a definite plus on my 106" Carada Screen.


I noticed last night while watching a movie with sub titles that the text didn't look quite as sharp as I expected.
So I decided to bump the focus ring and bam, the text looked sharp.

I did some testing and found that after about 20-30 minutes after power up the focus does seem to drift but after this "warm up" time, the focus was steady.

*My projector is shelf mounted with the lens shift almost centered with very little vertical and horizontal adjustment.

So as GardenVariety mentioned, focus your picture after it's been on for at least 30 minutes.
Also, try to use one of these 2 methods or you may not be getting the best focus if you are eye balling it from the projector to screen.

1. Get a pair of binoculars and look at the projector main menu text and adjust the focus.
2. Have someone at the screen looking at the Main menu text about 2 feet away as you adjust focus.


*Once focused, resist the urge to focus when you initially turn on the projector because the text will most likely look slightly out of focus.
It's not out of focus a lot and most probably won't notice but like most AVS members, we are not the norm and look at everything closely.
My wife said it looked no different before or after adjustment.
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post #671 of 3037
1/18/12 at 10:15am
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gmichael2 View Post

How do we know if alignment is needed? I don't see any one color out of line with the others. Can I assume that this means all is good?

If you don't see an issue, don't adjust.

To see if you need adjustment, you must start the LCD Alignment process then look closely(1 foot or less) at the grid lines displayed and look to see if you see any red/blue/green pixels/lines.

If the grid is entirely displayed with white lines with no colors, you are golden.
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post #672 of 3037
1/18/12 at 10:55am
Quote:
Originally Posted by 42Plasmaman View Post

*Once focused, resist the urge to focus when you initially turn on the projector because the text will most likely look slightly out of focus.

Nice to see this has carried over from the 8700.
The good news is it stops after about 100 or so hours.
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post #673 of 3037
1/18/12 at 2:24pm
What's up guys, just got a PC6010, love it so far. Does anyone have ISF or other calibration settings done for best day and night watching? I'm new to this forum so if this has been discussed before I'm sorry, just looking to maximize the picture settings. I'm shooting onto a 100 inch SI zero edge black diamond 1.4 gain screen from about 10 ft away.
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post #674 of 3037
1/18/12 at 2:42pm
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cruzer99 View Post

What's up guys, just got a PC6010, love it so far. Does anyone have ISF or other calibration settings done for best day and night watching? I'm new to this forum so if this has been discussed before I'm sorry, just looking to maximize the picture settings. I'm shooting onto a 100 inch SI zero edge black diamond 1.4 gain screen from about 10 ft away.

I don't believe any has done any ISF calibration yet.
You can also try asking your question in this thread.
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...5#post21504535
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post #675 of 3037
1/18/12 at 3:58pm
Cool, thanks for the heads up. Hope someone will post the settings and screen shots when they do.
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post #676 of 3037
1/18/12 at 6:00pm
Does this advanced menu/ LCD Alignment effect Warranty?
If not Has any other advanced adjustments that are useful been tried?
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post #677 of 3037
1/18/12 at 7:22pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by 42Plasmaman View Post

I'll try to describe it for you.

Note:
It's best to do this when the projector is on it's feet and not ceiling mounted.
Otherwise, if I recall correctly, the arrow/direction buttons are reversed when ceiling mounted.

You should also make the screen size smaller than your screen using the zoom so you can see the entire projected screen with no overscan to the screen borders.
I made the projected screen about an inch smaller around the entire screen than my screen.

1. Access the Extended menu and select LCD alignment.
2. Enable(on) LCD alignment.
3. Select (B)lue or (R)ed to be adjusted. Default is (R)ed.
*Leave the other option at R/B/G

4. Start the alignment.

5. You will be asked to first adjust each corner.
6. When the yellow box is displayed in the corner, make your adjustment using the arrow keys.
*If you are adjusting Red, then only the red pixels will move in the corner.

**If no adjustment is needed, select Enter to move to the next corner.
***Repeat this step for all 4 corners.

7. Once all 4 corners are done, you will now be asked to select a coordinate on the screen.
Once you enter this mode, a yellow square will appear on the screen with no "+" cross hair.

8. Move the box to a location in which requires pixel alignment using the arrow keys.
*If adjusting red, move to a location that requires red pixel adjustment.

9. Once you find a location, select the Enter key.
10. Now there will be a "+" cross hair in the yellow box.
11. Use the arrow keys to move the pixel.
*You should see that the V/H numbers will change from 0 to a positive or negative number depending on which way you adjust.

12. Once you are done adjusting, select Enter.
13. You will now return to the menu which asks if you want to adjust another location on the screen.
14. Press Enter to select another location to adjust and repeat the previous few steps.
Otherwise, select the Exit option to finish the alignment.

You can now choose to adjust the other color(Red or Blue) and repeat the alignment for that specific color.

*There is no adjustment for green.
**You must leave LCD adjustment ON. If you turn it off, the panel will return all adjustments back to default.

Just exit the LCD Alignment menu by selecting Return to keep your adjusted alignment.

Awesome Thank You.
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post #678 of 3037
1/18/12 at 8:30pm
I put up my 2nd(new) 5010 tonight after sending the 1st(bad) unit back today. The results are as follows: the black and color levels are a whole lot better. I dont really see the top and bottom black bars anymore. The picture is also alot brighter. So not being an expert but Ive come to the conclusion that the red lights of doom I saw flashing were probably telling me the iris was bad just because the colors and blacks are so much better. In conclusion 2d is badass now and now I see a difference between that and the 8350.

But the bad part is it still flickers in and out. The first 3d movie I put in it flickered and then I had to reset it twice and then it played a whole 3d movie. I then tried a couple 2d blu rays to test out the colors and stuff; but when I put in another 3d blu ray it flickered again. I had to reset it a couple more times for it to play a 3d blu ray. So im thinking the 5010s hates the slim ps3's. If it keeps doing it then Im gona have to use a fat ps3 or buy a dedicated 3d blu ray player. But I think ive started to notice that once you reset it; as long as you dont go back to display and set it again it seems to work. I would reset and it would say 1080p and thats it. I would go back and do it again to make sure 1080p 3d was checked and this time when I didnt recheck the system it seems to play.
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post #679 of 3037
1/19/12 at 4:14am
Quote:
Originally Posted by wickedg8gt View Post

I put up my 2nd(new) 5010 tonight after sending the 1st(bad) unit back today. The results are as follows: the black and color levels are a whole lot better. I dont really see the top and bottom black bars anymore. The picture is also alot brighter. So not being an expert but Ive come to the conclusion that the red lights of doom I saw flashing were probably telling me the iris was bad just because the colors and blacks are so much better. In conclusion 2d is badass now and now I see a difference between that and the 8350.

But the bad part is it still flickers in and out. The first 3d movie I put in it flickered and then I had to reset it twice and then it played a whole 3d movie. I then tried a couple 2d blu rays to test out the colors and stuff; but when I put in another 3d blu ray it flickered again. I had to reset it a couple more times for it to play a 3d blu ray. So im thinking the 5010s hates the slim ps3's. If it keeps doing it then Im gona have to use a fat ps3 or buy a dedicated 3d blu ray player. But I think ive started to notice that once you reset it; as long as you dont go back to display and set it again it seems to work. I would reset and it would say 1080p and thats it. I would go back and do it again to make sure 1080p 3d was checked and this time when I didnt recheck the system it seems to play.

Wicked,

Try turning off the "Super White" on your PS3. I had a similar problem and that seems to have resolved the issue for me.
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post #680 of 3037
1/19/12 at 6:45am
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by verity_mark View Post

Does this advanced menu/ LCD Alignment effect Warranty?
If not Has any other advanced adjustments that are useful been tried?

No.
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post #681 of 3037
1/19/12 at 6:49am
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by wickedg8gt View Post

I put up my 2nd(new) 5010 tonight after sending the 1st(bad) unit back today. The results are as follows: the black and color levels are a whole lot better. I dont really see the top and bottom black bars anymore. The picture is also alot brighter. So not being an expert but Ive come to the conclusion that the red lights of doom I saw flashing were probably telling me the iris was bad just because the colors and blacks are so much better. In conclusion 2d is badass now and now I see a difference between that and the 8350.

But the bad part is it still flickers in and out. The first 3d movie I put in it flickered and then I had to reset it twice and then it played a whole 3d movie. I then tried a couple 2d blu rays to test out the colors and stuff; but when I put in another 3d blu ray it flickered again. I had to reset it a couple more times for it to play a 3d blu ray. So im thinking the 5010s hates the slim ps3's. If it keeps doing it then Im gona have to use a fat ps3 or buy a dedicated 3d blu ray player. But I think ive started to notice that once you reset it; as long as you dont go back to display and set it again it seems to work. I would reset and it would say 1080p and thats it. I would go back and do it again to make sure 1080p 3d was checked and this time when I didnt recheck the system it seems to play.

Are you resetting the PS3 or projector?

Are you seeing the flicker through 3D glasses or without?

*I know you have tried other HDMI cables but this consistent issue only with 3D, which requires a good category2 cable sounds like the signal from the PS3 to projector is marginal.
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post #682 of 3037
1/19/12 at 7:44am
Quote:
Originally Posted by 42Plasmaman View Post

Are you resetting the PS3 or projector?

Are you seeing the flicker through 3D glasses or without?

*I know you have tried other HDMI cables but this consistent issue only with 3D, which requires a good category2 cable sounds like the signal from the PS3 to projector is marginal.

Im resetting the ps3. The flicker is the whole picture going in and out whether the glasses are on or off. Ive tried old hdmi and i even bought a brand new one over the weekend.
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post #683 of 3037
1/19/12 at 8:27am
After alot of time trying to figure out this blinking/flickering of the picture in and out I think i've got it figured out. I've tried 5 different hdmi cables; some old and not originally 3d compatible and a couple new fully equipted for high speed, ethernet, and 3d and 1440p and the works and it worked either at one time or another so I ruled that out. I have a new working and better 5010 so I ruled that out. Only thing left is the ps3. Thats the issue. After trial and error the problem is this: when I reset my ps3 and it comes up and tells you 1080p and put in screen size I do all that. Then I always go back to the display menu on the ps3 and redo it one more time to make sure its 1080p 2d/3d. After I do it a second time thats when it messes up and wont play a 3d blu ray. It worked fine last night and when I woke up but i went back to display and did it again; it messed up and wouldnt work. So I then reset and left alone and it worked again.
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post #684 of 3037
1/19/12 at 3:47pm
For reference: ceiling mounted about 1 foot above the top of the screen, 19 feet away, 123", 1.3 gain.

So I got the 5010 mounted up yesterday and I could right away tell that the convergence was off a little. I went through the steps to correct it manually. But by the time I get to the 4th corner, it's moved the red panel so much that the 1st corner is like 6 pixels out of alignment. It looked much better without trying to manually adjust the convergence. I'm thinking the projector is going to have to be swapped out or something.
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post #685 of 3037
1/19/12 at 4:14pm
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by 42Plasmaman View Post

I had my first "scare" last night when I turned on the projector.
The lamp didn't come on and the fan was in high.
The projector shut down about 4-5 minutes later with no flashing red lights to indicate an issue.
I powered on again and same issue.

I decided to take the lamp out and reinsert it and then it started working.

So, for some reason you get no light output, try removing the lamp and reseat it.

*If this happens again, I will be request a replacement.

It happened again.
This time, I unplugged the power for 5 minutes and powered back on and it worked.
I did notice that the Light LED on the projector was flashing RED when the lamp didn't turn on.

*The manual troubleshooting details what I did to fix it the first time if the Light LED is flashing RED.

Since it's happened twice, Epson is sending me a replacement lamp.
I hope the lamp is the issue.

**I've got about 120 hours on the lamp.
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post #686 of 3037
1/19/12 at 4:39pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Toxarch View Post

For reference: ceiling mounted about 1 foot above the top of the screen, 19 feet away, 123", 1.3 gain.

So I got the 5010 mounted up yesterday and I could right away tell that the convergence was off a little. I went through the steps to correct it manually. But by the time I get to the 4th corner, it's moved the red panel so much that the 1st corner is like 6 pixels out of alignment. It looked much better without trying to manually adjust the convergence. I'm thinking the projector is going to have to be swapped out or something.

Do you know your exact screen material, i.e. DaLite HCCV, etc. ?

Plus how is the brightness in eco mode if you tested that yet. I will have a similar setup and wanted to make sure it was plenty bright in 2d eco mode.
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post #687 of 3037
1/19/12 at 5:37pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by 42Plasmaman View Post

It happened again.
This time, I unplugged the power for 5 minutes and powered back on and it worked.
I did notice that the Light LED on the projector was flashing RED when the lamp didn't turn on.

*The manual troubleshooting details what I did to fix it the first time if the Light LED is flashing RED.

Since it's happened twice, Epson is sending me a replacement lamp.
I hope the lamp is the issue.

**I've got about 120 hours on the lamp.

Mine flashed both red lights and Epson said it was a bad iris which is kinda what I thought because of the terrible blacks and colors
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post #688 of 3037
1/19/12 at 5:42pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by toofast68 View Post

Do you know your exact screen material, i.e. DaLite HCCV, etc. ?

Plus how is the brightness in eco mode if you tested that yet. I will have a similar setup and wanted to make sure it was plenty bright in 2d eco mode.

The screen is a Stewart Studiotek 130. Got it back in 2002. Previous projector was a DWIN TV3 720p DLP.

I ran it for about an hour today and watched part of Inception and left all the convergence as it was out of the box. I think I can live with the convergence, but I will probably call Epson anyway and see what they suggest.

This projector is nice and bright in eco mode. I would not even bother using the normal lamp mode unless I was watching with all the lights on. It's not too bad in eco mode with the lights on either. And it is so quiet. Only noise in the room that I could barely hear was the two computer case fans I mounted in the amp rack. I don't think you will be disappointed in the eco mode brightness.
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post #689 of 3037
1/19/12 at 6:20pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Toxarch View Post

The screen is a Stewart Studiotek 130. Got it back in 2002. Previous projector was a DWIN TV3 720p DLP.

I ran it for about an hour today and watched part of Inception and left all the convergence as it was out of the box. I think I can live with the convergence, but I will probably call Epson anyway and see what they suggest.

This projector is nice and bright in eco mode. I would not even bother using the normal lamp mode unless I was watching with all the lights on. It's not too bad in eco mode with the lights on either. And it is so quiet. Only noise in the room that I could barely hear was the two computer case fans I mounted in the amp rack. I don't think you will be disappointed in the eco mode brightness.

Cool...I will have a 1.1 gain screen mounted about 12 1/2 feet away...so I should get similar results.
thanks again!
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post #690 of 3037
1/19/12 at 6:39pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by toofast68 View Post

Cool...I will have a 1.1 gain screen mounted about 12 1/2 feet away...so I should get similar results.
thanks again!

If you don't mind, what screen are you going with? 123"? I will have the same throw of 12 1/2 ft and I am going to shoot for a 126" Carada BW which is around a 1.1 gain.
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