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Stentorian build - Page 5

post #121 of 253
Do your neighbors ever complain about the noise?
post #122 of 253
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kanaris View Post

Do your neighbors ever complain about the noise?

My neighbors are far enough away that my shop noise is not a problem for them.
post #123 of 253
Thread Starter 
If you are going to paint, you can use spackling compound to fill nail holes and small gaps. Larger gaps need a good quality wood putty.




Break the edges (a woodworking term, meaning to dull the sharp edges).




Due to time constraints and in the interest of cost containment, I decided to spray them black myself. This is just primer, but it's a start. It's been so long since I last used a rattle can, I forgot how much I dislike using them.

post #124 of 253
why not use your spray gun?
post #125 of 253
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by smokarz View Post

why not use your spray gun?

I am going to. I just thought I'd use up some primer I had on the shelf.


I borrowed some of my wife's paint to get inside the Aperiodic Vents.

post #126 of 253
Nice. Hoping to pick up some tips on painting black. It's my plan for one of my current builds.

Thanks again for all your great photos and tips.
post #127 of 253
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dusty Shopfloor View Post


Why are you putting a terminal cup in the lower chamber? Since you are putting the crossover behind the middle chamber wouldn't it be better there?
post #128 of 253
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by BeerParty View Post

Why are you putting a terminal cup in the lower chamber? Since you are putting the crossover behind the middle chamber wouldn't it be better there?

I thought about that and it might be more practical, but I thought it looked better down low.
post #129 of 253
Thread Starter 
I like the way they look. I'm glad I tried this.



I chose Garage Floor paint, because it is tough enough for you to park your car on.




Tip: You don't need primer with this paint. I had one large side unprimed on each box and I got very nice coverage in two coats on every side, including the two unprimed sides (one per box).

Additional comment: It sprayed just fine with a 1.5mm tip. I didn't need to thin it.
post #130 of 253
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dusty Shopfloor View Post

I thought about that and it might be more practical, but I thought it looked better down low.

You are building these things on a very tight timeline and you still made time consuming compromises for aesthetics? My hat is off to you sir!

EDIT: nice paint job, they are going to look sweet with the drivers installed.
post #131 of 253
Great build! Could we see some pictures in the sun of the cabinets length-wise now that they are sprayed? Does the epoxy cover the woodgrain thoroughly?
post #132 of 253
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dusty Shopfloor View Post

If you are going to paint, you can use spackling compound to fill nail holes and small gaps. Larger gaps need a good quality wood putty.


Or you could use Bondo (Polyester resin auto body filler). Dries faster, tougher after cure. Still easy to sand.

JSS
post #133 of 253
I must have missed it. But the baffle has line down the sides where it meets the cab. Also looks double thick baffle. The line is very striking. Have any close ups?

Is the paint getting anymore attention or is that good to go ready for assembly? If so, looks like you did well on your tight timeline. Pretty amazing.

I still can't believe how much you get for $200. These have got to be the new standard for bargain HT.
post #134 of 253
The line is created when he used the 1/2" round over bit on the sides... if you set it deeper the line comes out thicker.It gives it a nice look...
post #135 of 253
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kanaris View Post

The line is created when he used the 1/2" round over bit on the sides... if you set it deeper the line comes out thicker.It gives it a nice look...

Good catch, Mike! I used a small diameter bearing on the roundover bit to create that effect.

tuxedocivic--You're right, I doubled the front baffle. Curt recommended it, because there is a lot of force created by all the drivers. So the baffle is 1.5" thick (nominal). I'll get more shots of the edge profile later and yes, these cabinets are ready for assembly.

maxmercy--Bondo is an excellent filler. I'm glad you mentioned it.

Quote:
Originally Posted by dykz34 View Post

Great build! Could we see some pictures in the sun of the cabinets length-wise now that they are sprayed? Does the epoxy cover the woodgrain thoroughly?

Thanks! It's too late for sunshine shots. The sun is nearly set and it is overcast. I'll get some more shots tomorrow.
After two coats, you can still see some wood grain, which is the effect I wanted. If you sprayed another coat or two, you could sand the cabinets perfectly smooth. Alternatively, you could use a good filler primer.

BeerParty--Thanks, Chris!
post #136 of 253
Looking really good Dusty! I think I'm gonna build a pair with 8 woofers and a B&C DE/ME 10 combo. Just waiting on some confirmations on some particulars.
post #137 of 253
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by mayhem13 View Post

Looking really good Dusty! I think I'm gonna build a pair with 8 woofers and a B&C DE/ME 10 combo. Just waiting on some confirmations on some particulars.

That should be a sweet combination--even more so if you use BeerParty's curved design. Keep me posted on your development, Mayhem.



post #138 of 253
Hey Dusty/PI,

Is this build done? Any more touch ups on the paints?
post #139 of 253
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by smokarz View Post

Hey Dusty/PI,

Is this build done? Any more touch ups on the paints?

The paint is fine.
I am assembling the crossovers right now--stopped for lunch.
I was planning on waiting until the speakers were fully assembled before taking more shots of the cabinets, but I might get a couple more cabinet shots in just a few minutes, before assembly.
post #140 of 253
Thread Starter 










post #141 of 253
Groovy baby, yeah!
post #142 of 253
Ya! I think we were all wanting that!!! Thanks
post #143 of 253
Thread Starter 
Put a kink in your resistor leads so the resistor will rise above the board for improved air circulation/heat dissipation.






Oh yeah, I put some self-stick felt pads on the cabinet bottoms.



post #144 of 253
Thread Starter 
Wires added.




A little hot-melt glue helps secure things in place.

post #145 of 253
Hey would you use that paint again if you didn't need the durability? I started using minwax clear gloss poly suggested in the howitzer build, which is so far amazing. So feedback on this product is appreciated.
post #146 of 253
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by tuxedocivic View Post

Hey would you use that paint again if you didn't need the durability? I started using minwax clear gloss poly suggested in the howitzer build, which is so far amazing. So feedback on this product is appreciated.

I like the way the paint looks on these cabinets, with the grain showing. I would use it again. I will use it again. Glad to hear you like the MinWax poly.
post #147 of 253
Thread Starter 
I used hot-melt glue to seal the feed-through holes.




Dire Straights sound fantastic right now! Thank-you Curt for another fine design! I will definitely build these again. Easy build, too. A week, start-to-finish--even faster if you get Erich H's flat packs!





For the record, the Howitzer is not connected. I'm just listening to the Stentorians alone, and they sound great!







Delivery tomorrow morning. Sorry guys, CHRISTmas activities prevent any group listening experiences this time. Sorry I took too long to get them done.

We'll try again another time for another project.
post #148 of 253
Wonder how you're felling about the NHTs in comparison to these Behemoths!
post #149 of 253
I was going to say the NHTs look surprisingly large considering what I expected from the stentorians.
post #150 of 253
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dusty Shopfloor View Post

CHRISTmas.

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