Stentorian build - Page 9

Yes. You have three pairs of woofers. Each pair is wired in series, by connecting the positive side of one to the negative side of the other. Then the pair is treated as if it were a single speaker. In other words, you already understand it correctly.

As for the color used on the crossover board, I just wanted them to look nice, since you can see them from the outside of the box. So I just grabbed a can of black spray paint, once the decision was made to paint the cabinets black. Before that--while I was still undecided on the cabinet finish--I sprayed a coat of clear lacquer, but that wasn't really necessary. I just hadn't decided on the finish yet.

As for sizing the crossover board, I position the components on paper first, to get a good idea of the size I need for the board. Curt's idea of using peg board is great. I used some thin plywood scrap I had on hand.

I'm glad I'm able to help Matt,

Yes the yellow wire jumpers the + of one woofer to the - of its partner. This keeps the voltage in phase in the woofers. Think of the woofers like a 2 cell flashlight battery. If you put the batteries in + to - you get a light when you turn it on. If you put + to +, it doesn't.

If you are putting the tweeter in the middle, mentally move the bottom two woofers to over the top MTM set, but keep the wiring the same. In other words, the brown wire would then go to the top woofer, the 2nd woofer would get the yellow and black wires, and the 3rd would get the blue.

I hope my ramblings make some sense. If not let me know and I'll redraw it for you.


C

That's perfect Curt. Thanks. I had it right, I just wanted to make sure in my first build before diving in and messing everything up. By the way, I'm building the crossovers for my 4 Sten II's at the same time. They are a little easier. I've put pictures below. One is a clean board with all the wiring and soldering below and one is everything on the top. Yea, those solders look pretty crappy. Just learning that too. Thought I'd start on these while the paint dries on the Stentorian boards. Anyway, thanks so much for the help.

Referring to your pics in post #109. What is the depth of the speakers rim to flush mount them there?

Refer to post 225 for getting the correct depth.

Tim

Your soldering look fine, especially since you say you are new at it. Remember the solder just provides a rigid airtight seal over the two wires after you mechanically bonded them. More solder doesn't hurt a thing. -It doesn't help either, but it doesn't hurt.

Here's the trick to good soldering:

Tin the wires
Twist them together,
Tin the soldering tip
Apply the tip to the joint
Apply the solder to the joint, not the soldering tip. The solder will flow evenly over the tinned area. A little is plenty.
Allow the joint to cool before you move it. -A good joint is shiny, a poor joint will be grey.

C

Sorry I should have specified. Does anyone have a measured depth (actual inches/centimeters)? I'm cheating with the woodworking portion of my build and am having some crafters build these for me (advantage of being in Turkey lol). I've had the box designed in google sketchup so I can show dimensions etc. Just missing that tid bit of information. Thanks!

Your are asking about the thickness of the rim of the drivers so you know how deep to make the rabbit when flush mounting the drivers, correct?

The rim of the Vifa BC25SC06-04 is 3mm thick. The rim of the Aura NS6-255-8A has 2 pieces, the inner metal piece (4mm) and an outer plastic piece (5mm) for a total thickness of 9mm. These are measurements taken from my drivers.

Note, I usually add 1mm to the depth of my rabbits to account for the gasket material I use, you may want to do the same.

Awesome thanks BeerParty!

Wow, I got 1 crossover built for the Stentorians and I didn't even plan on speaker wire length, holes to route them, etc.. I plan to completely build all the speakers before painting to see how they sound. When I mounted the crossover in the first one, I figured out that some of my wires were too short and trying make it neat in the crossover recess without having wires showing is going to be a challenge. Do you guys have any advice for this? Should I try to have all the wires in the same location and just make one big hole to feed them through? Right now, I have all speaker wires on top and have drilled 4 holes to feed them through, This is very messy. I have the terminal cup wires on the bottom. It's neat but it's because it's the only one on the bottom. Not really sure where to take this. Not going to start on the other two until I have this one figured out.

Matt

Matt - at this point you should probably start your own thread.

You can post up some pictures (we like pictures) and ask for advice there. As PI finished his cabinets a whlie ago I don't know how many people are still following this thread. You'll likely get more responses a new thread.

Ok. I just didn't want to steal any thunder by posting a second Stentorian build. If that's not an issue, I can do so.

Matt

Shame those nice cheap Aura drivers are all gone (well other than scalpers on eBay) - but bump to this build thread anyway