OWNERS thread for Mitsubishi HC7800 - Page 8

Has anyone tried the Xpand x105BT? I have seen these online for about $54 and it even says Mitsubishi compatible (but doesn't give exact model numbers). I wonder if you can use these without switching to "reverse mode" and thus be able to use original mits glasses along with these.

so apparently the xpand x105bt won't work because it's for bluetooth (hence the BT at the end).

i am relatively new to 3d so can someone enlighten me with these 3d technologies.

1. why do the xpand x104 but the x103 don't work? Aren't they both ir? Isn't the x104 just a lighter version of the x103?

2. Why won't other universal ir glasses work like the Sony ps3 3d glasses? It's suppose to work with 3d tv using ir from sony, toshiba, mitsubishi, etc. It works with epson projectors.

3. Will any universal or oher brand emitter work on the hc7800? i belive some company in europe sells an adapter to make the optoma rf emitter work with hc7800, any other? any of these available in the US?

To everyone on this thread who have questioned whether another manufacturers glasses can be used with the HC7800D... the answer is a resounding YES!!!

The "MonsterVision Max 3D Eyewear System with Active Sync - Glasses and Transmitter Kit for Active 3D" will work with the HC7800D.

There is a catch though...

The IR to RF dongle that comes with the Monster Vision Kit WILL NOT see the IR emission from the HC7800D's IR transmitter.

There is a German website (just Google it) that has the instructions on how to modify a cable to have the HC7800D send the 3D signal straight to the Monster Vision Max 3D RF transmitter.

If any of you are tech savvy and hands-on then your shouldn't have a problem getting a 5Pin-Din Cable and a 3-Post 3.5mm audio cable and soldering them together. It took me all but 40 min to cut, test the leads with a cable tester (to insure you match up the correct leads per the German website instructions), solder and wrap the break in electrical tape.

Viola!!!!

The beauty with the Monster Vision Max RF transmitter is that is is tunable.

If you make this modification and DO NOT tune in the RF transmitter you will be looking at a poorly ghosted out, blue hue and terribly dark image.

You have to download the Monster Vision Max Active Synch Kit's PDF manual from their website. The standard hard copy manual that comes with the transmitter oddly enough omits the fine tuning instructions.

The transmitter is extremely easy to fine tune and I was able to dial in a 100% ghost free, hue free and 100% brighter 3D image over the stock Mitsubishi 3D glasses.
I let the "Tron:Legacy" 3D menu loop over and over while I dialed in the fine tuning.

The beauty of RF over IR is that you can move your head or even get up and leave the room and your glasses remain totally synched. I actually walked to the other end of my home and the glasses remained synched.

Since our HC7800D is now RF 3D we have no need of the 3D IR emitter that comes with the HC7800D. In fact whilst watching 3D movies that stock IR emitter would drown out all of my component IR remotes. I found it very difficult to control my AVR or Bluray player or even the HC7800D with their respective IR remotes whilst using the Mitsubishi IR emitter during 3D movies.

Also, if you wire your cable correctly you will not need to use a external power supply for the Monster Vision Max RF transmitter (as specified by Monster); the transmitter will get its power from the HC7800D via the cable. This was one less cable that we had to hide.

Also, there is absolutely NO number on the max number of glasses that can synched to the Monster Vision Max RF transmitter. Theoretically you could synch up to a 100 glasses or more. The transmitter has a stable range of at least 35feet. That's how far I was able to walk away from the transmitter in my home and that was through 4 walls.

We have sent back the 4 pair of Mitsubishi glasses which were 197.00 a piece. They are extremely dark, uncomfortable, bulky and just downright hideous glasses.
The Monster Vision Max Glasses are Brighter, Wider, Lighter, a ton more comfortable and they are RF.

The Monster Vision Max transmitter kit comes with one pair of glasses and you can find it on Amazon for 70.00. The glasses can be purchases separately for around 97.00.
There are some negative reviews on the glasses and them losing charge or apparently not charging at all.
I think alot of people simply don't read their instruction manuals.
If you get these glasses and you go to charge them and they don't light up to show they're taking a charge. Simply push the "Power" button to activate the charge cycle. When the LED flashes it means the glasses are charging. When they are finished charging the LED power light will pulse on and off slowly. We found it easier to just keep them charged up after watching movies. When they are finished charging, take them of the charger. Also, something else that I discovered when using these glasses. When you're done using them, DO NOT bother trying to turn them off via the long press of the power button (per in the manual). If you hold the button down too long you may inadvertently factory reset them. Instead, just take them off, close the glasses and as long as there isn't a 3D signal coming from your transmitter (there will be 4 green led dots on the transmitter when it's broadcasting 3D) your glasses will shut off in 5 mins as long as they're closed.
We own four pair and have not experienced any negative behavior with them.

You know, it really helps when people read their technical manuals. Doing so would cut down on alot of tech support questions, lol.



Anyhow, I hope my post helps any fellow HC7800D owners experience a better 3D experience over the Craptastical Mitsubishi 3D glasses that are used with the HC7800D.
Edited by Shauri026 - 2/26/13 at 12:30pm

Sorry for this double post...
Anyhow, I hope my post helps any fellow HC7800D owners experience a better 3D experience over the craptastical Mitsubishi 3D glasses that are used with the HC7800D.

with the same adapter hack, didn't I read somewhere that you can use the Optoma RF emitter? If so, I have seen the Optoma rf emitter for cheaper and glasses as low as $65. Don't know how tunable it is though.

I think the cable mod will work with the optomo rf transmitter. I believe it's on that German site. Don't know how tunable it is though. The Monster Vision Kit is universal, so it was made to be tuneable.

Just did some research. The Monster RF emitter and the Optoma RF emitter are EXACTLY the same. They are made by the same company, Bit Cauldron. They even look the same, with the same 4 way joystick tunability. You can find the Optoma Rf emitter for about $40 at reputable places.

Edit: I reread your post. The Monster kit you mentioned is $70 (77 with shipping) but includes 1 pair of glass. That is cheaper than you can get the Optoma emitter + 1 glass anywhere. At that price, why would you just buy the glasses (which goes for about 70 to 100) and not the kit and glasses. I haven't checked but suspect there are tons of surplus emitters out there perhaps on ebay.

Question: Did you try using the Monster emitter kit without the hack using it as it was intended placing it in front of the Mits IR emitter? Does it work without reversing the signal like you do with the Xpand x104?
Edited by superflysocal - 3/2/13 at 1:11pm

We didn't look into putting together a patchwork of components. We had purchased several pair of the dreadful Mitsubishi 3D glasses and they were awful.
After reading the DIY instructions on how to make the Monster Vision Active 3D glasses work. Plus, they're RF and not IR.
To answer your question, I originally tried to get the HC7800D's IR emitter to send the signal to the Monster IR to RFconverter dongle. Could not get it to pick up the signal. I even tested the IR emitter to insure that it was broadcasting a IR signal. It was.
I then resorted to the cable modification.
After the cable modification and playing "Tron Legacy" in 3D the Monster Vision RF transmitter's four LEDS turned green.
I powered the glasses on and put them on. The image was in 3D but was poorly ghosted, dark and horribly off coloured in blue.
No need to reverse the 3D effect in the HC7800D's menu. In fact when I did experiment with reversing the 3D effect it made the image 3D all weird.
I fine tuned in the 3D in no time.
In a head to head comparison between the Mitsubishi glasses and the Monster glasses; well it's not even funny in the difference in brightness, viewing area and comfort.

Ok, thanks. I was just hoping to still use the mits glasses in case we have guests, but i guess that can still be done, if the modification is parallel.

Hi friends,
has anybody a schematic diagram with the mounting pattern? I would like to recycle my ceiling mount, but I have no diagram, manual is unhelpful.
Tks alot!

@Syperfly,
The original DIY instructions do not show the cable lead match ups for the parallel modification.
The website does show a parallel cable as well as vendors who apparently sell the cable.
Me personally, I ditched the IR emitter all together in lieu of the RF transmitter. I found that while using the original IR emitter during 3D movies it would emit such a brillant IR footprint that my other remotes and components had severe difficulty communicating with one another. The HC7800D's own remote even had issues communicating with the projector.

You could DIY a parallel cable as long as you were spot on with testing and matching up the cable leads. Would also have some additional soldering to be made.

Just a perspective

I was just wandering through other threads and found this post

http://www.avsforum.com/t/1456528/mitsubishi-hc5-vs-sharp-xv-z30000-as-a-single-pj-solution#post_22927345

It's from coderguy, whom many consider a projector expert. If I were researching on the HC7800D and stumbled on this post, I would totally freak out. What?!!! plastic lens? lens issue? not sharp?... But the fact is I've owned this Mits for a few months now and have been very happy with it. Extremely sharp, stunning colors, no lens issue... whether the lens is plastic or glass, I don't know, and shouldn't care, as long as it delivers.

Do you fellow Mit HC7800D owners feel the same level of satisfaction as I am? Or am I just lucky to have a very good copy of the projector?

I don't mean to burst your bubble but coderguy and Zombie are correct. I went through two hc7800d units. The first had a brightness uniformity issue so I exchanged it. The hc7800d is not particularly sharp. Compared to many other projectors I've owned it was one of the softest DLP units I've seen. The Optoma HD20 was the only one that looked softer. The JVC DLA-X3 (RS40) actually looked atleast as sharp if not a tad sharper than the Mitsubishi.

This is why its important to read reviews from people who have seen a lot of projectors. While it may look sharp to you I can tell you without a doubt there are projectors that look far sharper out there that are below and around this price range.

I guess that is just it. It depends on what you consider the price range. If it is at the retail pricing which place this projector in this part of the forum, then yes you will find sharper. But most people recently got this for much cheaper usually about half of retail, which is sharper at that price range?

Both the BenQ W7000 and BenQ W1070 look considerably sharper.

And how is benq black level? Btw the 7000 is more expensive than hc7800

Ok I will admit you have me looing at these beq units a little more. I am still in the return period window for my hc7800

Supposedly the benq w7000 does have better black levels slightly, maybe. Probelm is i can't find a place that sells the benq that has a reasonable return policy. Plus it is still about $400 more than what i paid for with hc7800. Is it that much better?

I would try calling up AVScience and see if they have any refurbished or b-stock models. They have great pricing and a great return policy.

Newegg is selling this HC7800 (w/ 2 pairs of the Mitsubishi glasses) for $1,300.

I'd previously been considering the Benq W1070 at $900 but this older Mitsubishi looks like an appealing alternative, especially with the 2 free pairs of 3D glasses thrown in.

Should I consider picking up an HC7800 or is it not worth the extra $ compared to the more modern, cheaper units like the Benq W1070 ($900) and Acer H6510BD ($800) ?

You have to remember the BenQ its only a year newer and you also need to remember that newer doesn't always mean better especially when you're looking at two different units at different price points.

With that said, it depends on your viewing habits. For 3D viewing only the BenQ will be better. Its going to be much brighter and will have no ghosting. Even though the Mitsubishi is DLP based I saw ghosting every once and a while. For 2D though, the Mitsubishi will have an advantage in contrast and black level thanks to a dynamic iris. The DI on the Mitsubishi is pretty noticeable though so YMMV. The BenQ should look sharper as they trend to have the best looking optics under $3000.

Overall the BenQ is killer at the price its currently at. As long as you're okay with a higher black level I'd say go with the BenQ.

Thanks for the feedback, those are good points.

I ended up opting for the older Mitsubishi as I think it'll fit my room better.. dark basement with no ambient light, mostly 2D viewing of 720p TV and 1080p movies, plus I really wanted a throw distance of 16-18' to place the projector behind our seating area.

Hopefully the strategy of buying a discounted year-old midrange projector vs. newer entry-level projector pays off.

Sorry for hijacking the glasses discussion.
Just a question: do you hear a click noise (two shots) after cooling down?. It's quite loud.

It could be the cabinet cooling down and contracting. Do you hear similar noises when the unit powers up and is running? Tyically you'll hear noises like that as the chassis heats up and cools down. A noise like that is common on almost every projector made so don't feel worried something is wrong.

I can hear the first relais that cuts out power, then a second, relatively loud "clank" noise as if a spring was returning in place, in fact I was thinking that the auto iris had a spring "returning home" when the pj is switched off. Boh, for the rest it is a fantastic machine.

The issue, if I can call that, is connected with the auto iris. An engineer by phone confirmed that after shut off iris returns in rest position and it is normal. He affirms that some vprs make the noise and some others not, but it is "nomal" and within tolerance. I hope so, he was so kind.

Does the HC7800 have a manual iris adjustment you can set in the service menu? That would be a nice feature
to bypass the iris.

There is a German website (just Google it) that has the instructions on how to modify a cable to have the HC7800D send the 3D signal straight to the Monster Vision Max 3D RF transmitter.

Can anyone post the link to this german website on how to modify the cable on the monster vision max to work with the HC7800D? I been trying but no luck.

Thanks dan

I'm in the stage of planning the install of this projector and came upon a probably obvious question but didn't quite see a solution or advice within the manual or other posts in this forum. For folks ceiling mounting their projectors, how are you installing or connecting the 3D sensor? Does the sensor need to be installed somewhere in front of the viewer similar to that of Kinect? Thanks in advance, y'all.

Jason

I remember it can be addressed to the screen exploiting bouncing....

I do hear a clicking noise when my pj finishes its standby/cooling down cycle.